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Author Topic: Primary Chaincase Lubricant  (Read 7941 times)

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bjizel

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Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« on: July 12, 2011, 07:37:42 PM »

I will be changing my Primary Chaincase Lubricant (@ 5,000 mile service) to Red Line V-Twin Primary Case Oil and was wondering if it's necessary to add the recommended 38 ounces or would 32 ounces be sufficient ?

Bernell
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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2011, 07:49:19 PM »

You are going to have to bust open that second quart. :)

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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #2 on: July 12, 2011, 07:57:30 PM »

I will be changing my Primary Chaincase Lubricant (@ 5,000 mile service) to Red Line V-Twin Primary Case Oil and was wondering if it's necessary to add the recommended 38 ounces or would 32 ounces be sufficient ?

Bernell

There has been some controversy on the site about this, with some claiming they only get a quart out when draining so they only put a quart in.  I would suggest that you drain the lubricant, then add one quart (32 ounces), then with the bike sitting upright and level check the actual lubricant level at the clutch.  The lubricant should just barely touch the bottom edge of the clutch spring.  If it's lower than that, slowly add more lubricant until the level is correct.  Do not overfill, as that can cause clutch drag.

Since you have to remove the clutch inspection cover (derby cover) anyway to add the new oil, it doesn't take any more effort to actually check the level and get it right.


Jerry
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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #3 on: July 12, 2011, 08:27:25 PM »

I will be changing my Primary Chaincase Lubricant (@ 5,000 mile service) to Red Line V-Twin Primary Case Oil and was wondering if it's necessary to add the recommended 38 ounces or would 32 ounces be sufficient ?

Bernell

I'll give you a bit different answer.  Since you are changing brands of primary lubricant, I would not only drain the primary of the old lubricant, but also remove the primary cover and clean all the remnants of the old lubricant from the primary.

This not only prevents mixing the new and old oil, but it also makes the question of how much new lubricant to add a moot point, as you will be starting off completely empty.  It's simple to do and worth the effort....in my opinion.
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dartman

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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2011, 12:50:35 AM »

You are going to have to bust open that second quart. :)

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bjizel

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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #5 on: July 13, 2011, 05:59:47 AM »

Thanks guys, no problem opening a second quart just wanted make sure I do the right thing. Replies much appreciated.
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cahdbiker

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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #6 on: July 13, 2011, 03:27:15 PM »

Bjizel, FOR WHAT ITS WORTH. When I did my first 5k on my 09 SEUC I drained the primary while the bike was on the side stand. Since my concrete has quite a good slope to it I had the primary on the downhilll side and 46 ounces came out . I let it drain for at least 15 minutes . (I measured it with a glass pyrex measuring cup). The previous service (1K) was done  at my local dealer. So I put 46 ounces back in (when the bike was level) and the primary fluid was at the correct level according to the service manuel. SO this leads me to believe that if the bike is drained in the level position you never really get all the old fluid out. Since then I have been on at least one 3000 mile trip and some local driving with no clutch issues. CAHDBIKER
P.S. There is a note in the service manual on page 1-17 that sayes " only add 45 ounces  after service that envolves removal of the primary chaincase or primary chaincase cover."
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bjizel

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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #7 on: July 13, 2011, 08:42:44 PM »

Thanks for the input Cahdbiker.
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CVODON

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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2011, 10:45:33 PM »

Took 45 ounces when I installed the chrome innner primary. And that was filling it until it came to the correct level looking thru the derby hole. By the way, the little orange plastic primary fill funnel that snaps on is pretty slick, easier to pour into.
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captdave221

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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #9 on: August 18, 2011, 08:57:20 AM »

I had a well known clutch mfg. tech advise me to use B&M Trick Shift oil in the primary. Anyone tried this oil?
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Twolanerider

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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2011, 11:05:33 AM »

I had a well known clutch mfg. tech advise me to use B&M Trick Shift oil in the primary. Anyone tried this oil?

I use it.  Barnett recommends it for use with their clutches. 
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captdave221

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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #11 on: August 25, 2011, 08:19:39 AM »

Dino type or Synthetic Trick Shift?
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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #12 on: August 25, 2011, 09:26:20 AM »

Dino type or Synthetic Trick Shift?

Primary isn't exceptionally hazardous duty for a that would normally go 50,000 or many more miles in an automatic transmission.  So since it gets changed at only 5000 mile increments I use the old original Trick Shift rather than the newer synthetic product.
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Hotrod50

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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #13 on: September 08, 2011, 03:58:02 PM »

What happens if the primary is overfilled.  I drained it in upright position.  Started filling back up in 8 ounce increments.  Ended up putting 50 oz. in.   I brought it up near bottom of cover hole.   I wasn't sure where full was.  Should I drain some?
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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #14 on: September 08, 2011, 04:23:46 PM »

What happens if the primary is overfilled.  I drained it in upright position.  Started filling back up in 8 ounce increments.  Ended up putting 50 oz. in.   I brought it up near bottom of cover hole.   I wasn't sure where full was.  Should I drain some?

Yes, I would drain it back down to the proper level, which is just to the bottom edge of the clutch spring with the bike sitting level.  Excessive fluid can affect clutch operation.


Jerry
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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #15 on: September 08, 2011, 04:26:24 PM »

Thank you!
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Re: Primary Chaincase Lubricant
« Reply #16 on: September 08, 2011, 05:30:10 PM »

Yes, the posts Jerry replied to are correct.  The bottom of the clutch spring is all you need.  Ride safe, ride hard, and keep the rubber side down.
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