Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[longlast]

Would much appreciate some ideas on the problem I've got.  I have an 07 ultra not been over run 6000 mil, on the clock. My battry on test will read 12.16 the volt dash dial will say 9v. I go to start up get  two cranks that's it. I retest the bat & it's at 11.92. By theway it's the original. bat. Aug 07. Don't know what life span of H.D. bats are?

[NSTY110RIDER]

The battery in my '08 SERK just failed and I have kept it on a Battery Tender.  I think 3 to 4 years is about average out of a battery.

[ultrarider123]

Lots of posts concerning battery issues and life on this forum.  My experience is it's the individual battery.  I've had batteries last 3-4 years and a couple that didn't make it 2.  All were HD batteries.  I don't put mine on tender as I ride year around.  I suggest getting a new one.  One thing with voltage on HD's, you need to keep it as consistent as possible as one weak link can do havoc on the electrics so ditch the old one and get new...

[2k]

How are you testing? If you use a meter, there is no load and the battery will read OK. Put a load on it and it prob drops to 6 or 7 VDC...........bad cell.

[RedEagle]

I keep mine on a tender thru the winter still going strong. (knock on wood)
I was at a rally a few weeks ago saw a vender selling Lithium battery for Harleys.

www.earthxmotorsports.com

My Question has anyone tried one of these?

They are smaller so they come with a spacer to keep it from moving around in the battery box, and much lighter.
I would love to hear some reports on these before I need one.

[murphy]

Mine is an 06, I keep it on a tender all the time but it was time to replace it this year. GRC (Jerry) suggested a Dekka as a replacement which is what I got, they make the HD batteries but sell them without the HD sticker for about half the price!

[longlast]

Thanks for all the feed back . Since my last thread spoke with a gees he says to  take a car bat. jump it to the the bike bat take a volt reading. Fire it up, if it cranks & fires that will eliminate any stater fault. Shut it down take another volt check leve the jumps hooked up for a cuple of days. Then take again a volt check if it hasent dropped by doing this I could eliminate any power drain. Would this seem fesable to say the bats. failed

[49445CVO]

I keep mine on a tender thru the winter still going strong. (knock on wood)
I was at a rally a few weeks ago saw a vender selling Lithium battery for Harleys.

www.earthxmotorsports.com

My Question has anyone tried one of these?

They are smaller so they come with a spacer to keep it from moving around in the battery box, and much lighter.
I would love to hear some reports on these before I need one.

Just read up on these.  Quite interesting and will be even more interesting to see how they fair. Kinda expensive tho,

[grc]

Thanks for all the feed back . Since my last thread spoke with a gees he says to  take a car bat. jump it to the the bike bat take a volt reading. Fire it up, if it cranks & fires that will eliminate any stater fault. Shut it down take another volt check leve the jumps hooked up for a cuple of days. Then take again a volt check if it hasent dropped by doing this I could eliminate any power drain. Would this seem fesable to say the bats. failed

It would be much easier to just have the battery load tested.  In the USA most car and motorcycle shops can load test batteries, and many of our auto supply stores will actually test them for free. 

At five years old, and with the symptoms and voltages you originally posted, I'd say the odds are very high that your battery is ready for the grave yard.  A fully charged battery should have open circuit (no load) voltage across the terminals of 12.8 volts.  And when you crank the engine, the voltage should not drop below 9.6 volts.  If you leave the voltmeter hooked up to the battery as you crank the engine, I'll bet your voltage is dropping well below that figure.  Make sure you use a real voltmeter, not the gauge on the dash, to do your testing.


Jerry

[longlast]

It would be much easier to just have the battery load tested.  In the USA most car and motorcycle shops can load test batteries, and many of our auto supply stores will actually test them for free. 

At five years old, and with the symptoms and voltages you originally posted, I'd say the odds are very high that your battery is ready for the grave yard.  A fully charged battery should have open circuit (no load) voltage across the terminals of 12.8 volts.  And when you crank the engine, the voltage should not drop below 9.6 volts.  If you leave the voltmeter hooked up to the battery as you crank the engine, I'll bet your voltage is dropping well below that figure.  Make sure you use a real voltmeter, not the gauge on the dash, to do your testing.


Jerry

Thanks for that Jerry no one has sugested any thing about this load testing. I'll check in to it thums up  cheers