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[hverbakel]

I finally got around to repairing the annoying drip coming from under the inner primary. I replaced the mainshaft seal and expected that would solve the problem but the leak was still there. So I tore it apart again and after closer inspection I found this hairline crack in the mainshaft bearing. Hoping to get it back together tomorrow and be done with it. Make sure you check these bearings while you have the primary off.

[hverbakel]

a better closeup of the crack

[porthole]

You can eliminate that race and the problems it can cause with a Hi-Torque bearing from Baker

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34600.msg559885#msg559885

[Twolanerider]

a better closeup of the crack

Duane in the post previous described the Baker part as a better piece than the stock bearing and race.  It is a better option for replacement.  It is for a couple of reasons.

The bearing itself may or not be any better.  The failure in the stock pieces was commonly the race as you see on yours.  What they would also occasionally do, however, is rather than splitting as yours has done is that they'd simply walk.  Moving inboard or outboard.  If an engine was built just a bit, and not much, you see the race walk; taking out seals one way or the other.  The Baker bearing eliminates the race entirely.  It's the same OD as the stock bearing and the same ID as the mainshaft so the race is no longer used.  Since the race can sometimes be a pain in the ass to pull, and takes a special tool to pull, it's nice not to have to screw it ever again.

[porthole]

And if one were to go the baker route, test the bearing on the main shaft before installing in the primary.

The first bearing I got missed the "honing to fit" step.

See my post here.
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34600.msg559887#msg559887

[Twolanerider]

And if one were to go the baker route, test the bearing on the main shaft before installing in the primary.

The first bearing I got missed the "honing to fit" step.

See my post here.
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34600.msg559887#msg559887

That would totally suck Duane.  If it was only a wee bit oversized many would miss that.  Nice catch.

[porthole]

Hard to miss catch Don with the first bearing I had.
Although only a few thousands off, it was a few thousands too small, on the main shaft side. So it would not slide over the seat area.

Now the other way you bring up, yeah, missing that could give you all kinds of havoc. And had one done all kinds of work at the same time, may be a tough to diagnose issue.

[hverbakel]

The Baker unit makes a lot of sense. I thought about it after it was all assembled that maybe I should have replaced the bearing at the same time. It looked to be in perfect condition so I didn,t bother replacing it.

[Rooster]

Duane in the post previous described the Baker part as a better piece than the stock bearing and race.  It is a better option for replacement.  It is for a couple of reasons.

The bearing itself may or not be any better.  The failure in the stock pieces was commonly the race as you see on yours.  What they would also occasionally do, however, is rather than splitting as yours has done is that they'd simply walk.  Moving inboard or outboard.  If an engine was built just a bit, and not much, you see the race walk; taking out seals one way or the other.  The Baker bearing eliminates the race entirely.  It's the same OD as the stock bearing and the same ID as the mainshaft so the race is no longer used.  Since the race can sometimes be a pain in the ass to pull, and takes a special tool to pull, it's nice not to have to screw it ever again.

Don is right about the walking as that is what happened to mine and result was taking out the comp assembly. I got the advice from Jim hddude about the Baker bearing and have had no issues since.

[porthole]

The Baker unit makes a lot of sense. I thought about it after it was all assembled that maybe I should have replaced the bearing at the same time. It looked to be in perfect condition so I didn,t bother replacing it.

You replaced the part on the shaft but not the bearing?

Race and bearing together, that would be your best bet, whether the MoCo stuff or the Baker Hi- Torque. Not just one half of the equation.
http://bakerdrivetrain.com/high-torque-bearing-kit

[Twolanerider]

You replaced the part on the shaft but not the bearing?

Missed that when reading earlier.  I didn't even realize they could be purchased separately... 

[hverbakel]

Still not clear on one thing. When I replaced the inner race, it seemed to be really tight fit on the shaft. If the Baker HI torque all in one bearing is used then wouldn't it be difficult to get the inner primary cover back on the shaft after installation of the Baker bearing?

Long story short after tearing it apart for the second time, and replacing the starter seal and mainshaft seal, it still leaks. Before I take it apart again , I was wondering if there is a surefire way to tell if the oil is coming from the primary seal or tranny seal. I now use Amsoil in both the tranny and primary.  Is there a tranny oil that is a different colour or could I add a food colouring to the tranny oil to help track down the origin of the leak?

[Rooster]

You could use Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof in the tranny as a lot of folks on the site do including me. It is pink like pepto and will smooth out that clunking some.

[hverbakel]

THanks , I am hoping the use of a different colour tranny oil will help me source the origin of the leak. Its either coming from the primary or tranny, and ending up on the backside of the inner primary.

[Rooster]

Can't go wrong with the shockproof, Benn using it for years and I use the Redline MTL for the primary light pink in color but clear otherwise.