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[AndyB1976]

Guys
I have a 2008 RK With nearly 40,000miles on her would it be worth upgrading the cams & oil pump etc or does the CVO already have upgrades from standard?
Thanks

[Dan_Lockwood]

Andy, hello.

If you've read anything on the forum it's that the lifters go south quickly.

Also IF, the miles are original to the all the inner parts, as in no lifter swap so far in the 40k miles, it's high time to do at least a lifter swap and at the same time maybe a cam with a bit less radical ramp profile that might quiet down the motor a bit on the top end.  Also Rocker Lockers have been mentioned a ton here and seem to lessen in most cases some of the top end valve train noise.

So while it's still winter and you have a ALL stock original motor, now's the time to go in and change out a few items BEFORE it takes the whole motor down with it.

Good luck and post what you decide to do.  I'm sure others here will have recommendations about cams etc.

[hd-dude]

The CVO 110 came with a SE255 cam. Lifters should be replaced for sure with that many miles. Changing the cam is a personal choice and depends on if you are looking to improve the bikes performance. If so then the TTS-100 and TTS-150 work EXTREMELY well as a bolt-ins in the 110's. When you are in there inspect the pump and plate for issues and replace if needed. Keep in mind that if you change the cams a re-tune will be required so that adds another $800-$1000 for a tuner and dyno time on top of the cam swap.

[AndyB1976]

Thank you gentlemen, I have started stripping don as there is a lot of "rattling" from the cam chest, it has been suggested that the lifters are probably to blame and are not draining down!
If I change the lifters should I also change the pushrods as a matter of course?

[stuart1270]

Push rods do not need to be replaced. However if you do adjustable push rods you won't have to open the top end and still do cams and lifters also in the event you have to go back in it will be easy. Many YouTube videos on how to do it.

[JKM]

definitely change out the lifters.  Consider S&S lifters.  I would also suggest the Rocker Lockers.  You will see many post here about them.

As for the cam, it's a personal choice.  Any cam change will require a new fuel map/dyno.  If the bike is stock, them do a cam in conjunction with exhaust and proper high-flow filter.

[trippy]

Hi Andy,
Been there and done it on my 2007, as said before but also while in the cam chest a must is to change out the "Inner Cam bearings" for Torrington Full complement bearings, the originals are prone to collapsing and if they go they can destroy the the engine, and also check your Crank for "Run out, HD say 12 thou, but that is way too much, should be looking for no more than 4-5 thou, more than that can start to damage the oil pump.

[Scott7d]

If so then the TTS-100 and TTS-150 work EXTREMELY well as a bolt-ins in the 110's.

I know there are many variables, but most if not all results I've seen from the TTS100 look right on par with the 255's, in same cases not as good. How is the 150 different, higher lift/more right side of the graph cam, I'm guessing?

[hd-dude]

I know there are many variables, but most if not all results I've seen from the TTS100 look right on par with the 255's, in same cases not as good. How is the 150 different, higher lift/more right side of the graph cam, I'm guessing?

Every 100 I have done has outperformed the 255, both in torque and horsepower. The 150 does shift the torque to the right a bit but still outperforms the 255's down low.

[Tail Rider]

How much more to the right are you finding, normally 250, 300...500 rpms?

[hd-dude]

How much more to the right are you finding, normally 250, 300...500 rpms?

I'd say around 400-500....