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[FAST380]

I thought it was time to dedicate a thread to crimp tools, connectors, and techniques. If you have any connector suggestions for a particular application would be great also. What started this for me is I want to purchase a good quality crimp tool, but don't want to spend hundreds (maybe a hundred) on it. Thanks for everybody's input!!

• Deutsch connectors?
• Different sizes and applications
• Crimp tool options
• Crimping techniques

[FAST380]

Here is a link to Deutsch tools/connectors
http://www.deutschconnector.com/

Sargent Crimping tool
http://www.rostratool.com/

Dephi Connectors
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/861

I don't know anything about these, any suggestions on which one to buy?

[porthole]

Good quality and inexpensive are not going to on the same tool listing.

For general wire crimping I use an Ancor ratchet crimper and I only use Ancor wire connectors. Both available at marine supply and many others. Along with that I am a big fan of teh Ancor brand or marine grade wire.
http://www.marinco.com/product/double-crimp-ratchet-tool-1

For some of the Deutsch connectors (there are two sizes and types) I have  a Deutsch crimper. A $250 I got off eBay for under $30.

For battery cables I use
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=247562&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50523&subdeptNum=50566&classNum=50569

[FAST380]

Here is a link sombody posted to Deutsch connectors
http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Car-Electronics/_i.html?_fsub=13704923&_sc=1&_sop=3

[backroad Mike]

I think you'll find most of the connectors on your 11 are AMP, and Molex.   When I had to make my wiring harness to add the tourpack with full lights, I searched high and low.  Tried the local tool trucks, as well as every vendor I could visit.   NOBODY had something in stock that was exactly what I needed.  I saw a lot of different options on the web, but didn't want to buy something that was close...  I could do close with what I already had.  If you want precise, IMHO you'll have to buy the expensive ones.

Here's what I used.

[barefoot3zk5]

I have used this seller from ebay  in times past .. He is very helpful and good on pricing although alot of the stuff isnt cheap ..  4RCUSTOMS    http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEUTSCH-DT-SERIES-BLACK-CONNECTOR-KIT-238-PC-crimp-crimper-terminal-pic-tool-/260922827321?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc0366239&vxp=mtr

[FAST380]

Mike, what brand model are your tools that you use?

[FAST380]

Do you guys recommend the B type crimp or the oval type crimp for the insulator?

[TIF2]

There are two things I will always have in my tool chest:

1. A high quality, properly calibrated set of torque wrenches in any drive type and torque level I need.
2. Manufacturer spec'd crimp tools for any critical connector I am going to build.

There are connectors on the H-D bikes that allow a little bit of "slop" (Deutsch) and connectors that require "precison" crimps (Molex MX150). In the end if you are comfy with the connection then use whatever method works for you. If you have issues later on, then those connectors would be the first place I would look. The issue, of course, is ROI. If you "just need that one connector done" it makes no sense to buy the right tool for the job. That's when you hope you can trust your Dealer or an Independent to do it right (he hopefully bought the proper tools). Look at it this way - if you wanted to attach a couple of 2x4's for a project, would you buy an air-driven Paslode framing nailer? Probably not. If you were framing a house then it would be your FIRST purchase . Or - that's why and when you contract a Framer.

Although expensive (usually) - crimp tools spec'd by the Manufacturer of the connectors are the best choice.
Done once ... done right.

I mean ... would you "guess" the torque value of your head bolts? Rear axle? Front axle? In my opinion, not using OEM crimp tools on critical electrical crimps are in the same vein - it's a "guess" that the signal level will not be compromised and that it will hold up over time, exposure, and vibration.

Face it ... we live in the age of expanding technology. With composite materials for engine components, forged aluminum castings, high-speed data busses for ABS, ECM, Suspension control, and multimedia (Infotainment) out the wazoo - gone are the days of "wire-twisting" and electrical tape. Gone are the days of "it's good and tight". When I do critical mechanical work; I check torque values like fiend. When I (have to) solder wires, I file them to keep signal loss to a minimum and to ensure as little cross-talk to adjacent wires as possible. Unfortunatley ... it will only get worse (from a torque and electrical precision perspective) in the future.

Just sayin ...

[2018_FLTRXSE]

I've tried many of the so-called "these crimpers will work for what youre doing" generic tools... and I'll be the first to say it.. while they may "fit" with some effort, I'm just so anal when it comes to fit/finish and the like.. the OE crimpers work best... if course, they are pricey, but they do the job right.. once.

JMHO

[TIF2]

I've tried many of the so-called "these crimpers will work for what youre doing" generic tools... and I'll be the first to say it.. while they may "fit" with some effort, I'm just so anal when it comes to fit/finish and the like.. the OE crimpers work best... if course, they are pricey, but they do the job right.. once.

JMHO

Agreed ... the MX150 is one of the most highly engineered connectors I've encountered. Without the Molex crimp tool it is very, VERY difficult to assemble.
It's also my favorite connector on the bike. (hey Molex - respect!).

Gotta love precision ...

[Harleypingman]

A couple of observations/suggestions:

First, the HD Service Manual identifies the manufacturer of each electrical connector on the bike.  With a bit of time searching their websites it's relatively easy to identy the exact connector, as well as the pins/sockets it uses.

Second, manufacturers maintain websites that detail how to crimp their sockets/pins--so if you want to know how to crimp a Deutsch, Tyco AMP, Multilock, Delphi Packard, or Molex pin/socket the information is readily available.

Third, for most hobbyist applications (in which I include the crimping I've done), knowing what the crimp should be (based on the mfr's websites), it's relatively easy to accomplish effective crimps and connector assembly without purchasing the commercial grade crimp tools suggested by the manufacturers.

Hopefully, others will chime in and share their experience with various crimp tools, as well as vendors.  I continue to use a relatively inexpensive Sargent tool that works effectively for me on Deutsch, Tyco Amp, and Multilock assemblies--my bike, being an '04, I have not encountered a Molex connector.

Carl

[FAST380]

Rich, I understand the difference between good and bad tools. I have been a "tool guy" my whole life, sounds like you are a tool guy as well, so you probably know what I mean. I am trying to find out what the majority of connectors are on our bikes, and what is the PROPPER tool to use. Now if I can spend $100 bucks and get a good quality tool instead of spending $400, I will consider that, but I am not going to spend $15.95 on a set of crimper's either.

So what do you use for a crimp tool on your bike, specifically? Is the majority of the bike Molex connectors?

Thanks for your input,

FAST

[TIF2]

Third, for most hobbyist applications (in which I include the crimping I've done), knowing what the crimp should be (based on the mfr's websites), it's relatively easy to accomplish effective crimps and connector assembly without purchasing the commercial grade crimp tools suggested by the manufacturers.
Carl

I'll agree in general Carl ... the exception being the MX150 Molex.
It is a highly engineered conector and while you can place pins/sockets on the end of a wire for this connector, and even force it to seat - it is doubtful it would be serviceable. Meaning - you'll struggle like heck to get the wire out - if you even can.

Still a fan of the OEM stuff here ...

[Harleypingman]

I'd defer to TIF2 on all electrical connectors, crimp tools, etc.

I'm aware of the engineering and tight specs of the Molex connector, so I disclaimed any experience with that particular brand.

Carl

[2018_FLTRXSE]

I do a lot of GM automotive stuff too, so I have more than one toy in my box... 

MSD makes a GREAT multi tool with different jaws for different crimps... (so do other MFGs) I just happened to find a set online for I think it was $120.. and it didnt do the Deutsch connector well... so I still have the HD tool to go with that...

I prefer not to screw around with one tool, then another, then another to get the job done... if you've ever had the pleasure of using one of the HD crimpers you'll understand what I'm saying...

Not to mention all the connectors you mess up trying to make something work, or learning the process... the HD tool is as simple as strip, crimp, plug.. done. Of course, the beer consumed while swearing, bitching and pinching your fingers isnt bad...

(Yes, I'm a lazy ass too... ) 

[TIF2]

Rich, I understand the difference between good and bad tools. I have been a "tool guy" my whole life, sounds like you are a tool guy as well, so you probably know what I mean. I am trying to find out what the majority of connectors are on our bikes, and what is the PROPPER tool to use. Now if I can spend $100 bucks and get a good quality tool instead of spending $400, I will consider that, but I am not going to spend $15.95 on a set of crimper's either.

So what do you use for a crimp tool on your bike, specifically? Is the majority of the bike Molex connectors?

Thanks for your input,

FAST

I'm not sure I can offer much here ... I feel strongly about having the right tool (as you do) for the right job. However, I don't know of a "majority" of connectors allowing you to purchase "just one" crimp tool.  As Carl pointed out, there are many alternatives to OEM and getting an effective crmp. And while I agree with him, I'll also state there are connectors on the bike that are very difficult to terminate without the OEM (or really - Manufacturer's tool).

For crimp tools - there is simply no "one tool to rule them all" ... if I had to pick my most important tool for crimping it would be the Molex MX150 crimp tool. Simply astounding crimps and worth every penny of the ~$400 list price. But that's just me. I chose early on in my design that disconnects under the seat  would be based on this connector (60+ terminations) so it made sense (again - for me) to buy the tool.

Still - well worth the investment.

[backroad Mike]

Mike, what brand model are your tools that you use?

FAST;

The one in the upper right I bought from the Matco tool truck. MC93150.
The one in the lower right, I had from a previous need I purchased at a local automotive repair shop.

Now, having stated it worked for me, there was a lot of trial and error because these are not perfect. Each of these had their use in combination, but it was a pain in the ass and I spent many hours building the harness and getting the pins just right to snap into the connectors.   Having read through the other post here, I would agree that the Molex crimper would be highly recommended.  I just didn't want to spend another 3-4 hundred dollars on a tool to use potentially this one time.  If I were to do it again, I'd probably look at a higher quality tool both for ease of use, quality crimp and to speed up the process. If I knew of a place to rent or borrow the tool, I'd look at that option if it were available.

If I have problems down the road, I will be taking the pins apart and purchase the proper Molex crimper to do the job.  So far however, everything is working. 

Don't try this without a molex pin release tool either..  That, and it pays to have some extra pins and a couple connectors.. As careful as I was, I still messed up a few and not having a spare would have been another 3-5 days delay waiting for parts. 

[TIF2]

Don't try this without a molex pin release tool either..  

Ain't that the truth .... probably possible to use a paper clip but you'd need a bunch of them in different thicknesses to experiment with just the right one. Mjb765 (Mike) found a removal tool on ebay for like $16. I bought the Harley one but don't remember how much it was.

Just another weapon in the arsenal  

Best source I've found for most of the connectors/pins on the bike is Mouser (www.mouser.com). Terrific company and FAST shipping. Only exception to that are Deutsch connectors. As common a connector as it is (for automotive use as well) it still baffles me that Batts Racing seems to be the only source. Deutsch connectors (as connectors go) are pretty pricey as well.

Being able to manipulate the MX150 connector comes in very handy if you're doing much electrical work on the bike. For instance, the MX150 is used to connect the saddlebag harness for the lid speakers to the main harness running down the neck to the radio. It is provided as part of the sadllebag speaker kit with a 6-position male/female connection. Having the Molex crimper and pin tool allowed me to change the 6-positon to a smaller 4-position (a 2-position is all that is required, but those are hard to find for some reason) and do a custom drop of the connection exactly where I wanted it. See attached pic.