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CVO Technical => Drive Train => Topic started by: ltank on July 13, 2020, 08:36:56 PM
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Has anyone converted from a cable to a Hydraulic Clutch? Some say there's little to no difference in Clutch lever pull. Others say it really made a difference and it's easy to pull. I have read so much on it, fried my brain and don't know what to believe.
Any input us appreciated. I just hope I didn't waste a lot of money again.
Thanks
I opted for the Baker lever and Harley Hydraulic Master Cylinder with 11/16" bore. Should I use a Master cylinder from a V-Rod or a Touring Harley?
Any help on the conversion
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About the issue of it making no difference would be inaccurate. With hydraulic you're exerting more pressure on the outward end then the pressure being placed on the inward end. Think of it like a hydraulic floor jack the effort it takes to lift a car,...now think of a jack with cables the arm of the jack would have to be 3/4 times longer to have the leverage to lift the car.
So the hydraulic will take less effort to compress the clutch springs and hold them compressed. As a cabe you are fiscally hold back the pressure of the clutch springs.
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Ok thanks, I failed to look at it that way. So much
Online. I guess most if the negative reports are about where the clutch doesn't release until the lever is almost all the way out, not a gradual release of cable clutches. The adjustable levers are expensive but if they actually work as advertised may not be too bad. Thanks again.
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I converted my '01 from cable to hydraulic clutch. It wasn't difficult, but I do miss the adjustment. I didn't know Baker made an adjustable lever.
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Baker makes the cover. Several other companies make adjustable levers. I will wait and see how I like it.
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On my '02 I upgraded the clutch release "ramps" to the later revision and it gave the clutch lever a much better feel. You can also install a lighter diaphragm spring to make the pull easier yet, at the possible expense of clutch slippage under higher power.
I didn't do a cable to hydraulic conversion yet, though.
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Motor is S&S V124 with RB Racing LSR2-1, Big Bore Super G with Thunderjet Pro. The Baker 9 plate street clutch slipped at rpm above 4k rpm, rated 120 hp. Put the Racing Pressure Plate that supposed to be good for for 60% more torque but it's very hard on hand in traffic or mountain riding twice a year. I burned up one clutch, it was slipping above 4200 rpm.
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Baker 9 Plate Street Clutch is very Nicely Machined. Wonderful with the weaker Diaphragm Spring
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When you guys did the cable to hydraulic conversion, did you buy a kit or just piece everything together?
I'm interested in converting my wifes 2012 Road King.
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I am in the process. I bought the Baker for the 6 speed O.D. and the Harley Clutch Master with 11/16"
Bore as Baker specifies. I had to do some research to
find part number for older style clutch cylinder that match my 98 King Front Brake Master cylinder.
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When you guys did the cable to hydraulic conversion, did you buy a kit or just piece everything together?
I'm interested in converting my wifes 2012 Road King.
I pieced it together with parts on eBay. It was all HD stuff and bolted right up.
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Did it meet your expectations? Was it easier than before? In my case I am wanting an easier clutch pull. I hear they take some getting used too because the tend to start releasing at the end of the clutch lever travel.
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Did it meet your expectations? Was it easier than before? In my case I am wanting an easier clutch pull. I hear they take some getting used too because the tend to start releasing at the end of the clutch lever travel.
If ease of pull is what you seek, there are other products out there to address that. What the hydraulic clutch does is give a linear feel that puts the friction zone in the same spot. Unfortunately it's near the end of the release. Unlike a cable which stretches and needs lubing, the hydraulic is mostly maintenance free. However the fluid must be changed per schedule. All in all I thought it was a good upgrade.