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[rheiner]

This is what I found on changing out the compensator, rotor/stator etc.

Just a little grinding, not too much at all.

I have an oil leak on my 2010 SEUC where the stator cable comes out of the crank case so I need to pull my rotor to get at it. I removed the primary chain tensioner, compensator assembly and clutch assembly and I see that I have a slightly different lip on my inner primary.The lip that prevents pulling the rotor extends to the gasket surface which means it doesn't look like I can grind any material off without taking away gasket surface area for the primary cover. The only reason I can think that the moco would do this is to sell overpriced inner primary gaskets and inner primary bolts with the o-rings. Even after discount it's still $30 in parts that should not have to be spent with some half decent engineering, and for the guy that has to have the dealer do it it's more labor too. What's the best way to repair, clean it up and put some high temp black silicon gasket maker on the stator cable where it comes through the case?

On the bright side my -08A SE compensator with 20,000 miles on it appears to be in very good shape, no wear on the ramp lobes or teeth. There is some wet reddish brown rust looking material on the splines of the metal but it wipes off.

[rheiner]

I went to my dealer to ask him how to best repair the oil leak coming from the stator through the crankcase. I was told it isn't repairable, that the rubber wears down and replacement of the stator is needed. The good news is that it's covered by ESP.

[Twolanerider]

I went to my dealer to ask him how to best repair the oil leak coming from the stator through the crankcase. I was told it isn't repairable, that the rubber wears down and replacement of the stator is needed. The good news is that it's covered by ESP.

The dealer's desire or mother Harley's intent to sell a stator notwithstanding there is chemical sealant fix.  There's also nothing there that really "wears down" and the parts aren't moving.  Check the Permatex product line for a sealant product called "The Right Stuff."  It is good stuff.  You'll still want to remove the stator and clean the primary mating surface and the rubber nipple very well.  I've used this product to seal a few leaking stator plugs. 

[rheiner]

I got the new stator and installed it. There was some minor wear on the ribs of the rubber grommet of the old stator versus the new one. But the biggest difference was the grommet ribs were flimsy on the old one compared to the new one. There is clearly some movement of the grommet in the crank case bore in a Harley engine. The new stator's grommet ribs were very firm and shaped perfectly. I can see how all of the heat cycles and chain case oil does eventually take a toll on the grommet causing the oil leak. I suppose it is possible to repair the oil leak but in my situation that wasn't necessary.

[Twolanerider]

I got the new stator and installed it. There was some minor wear on the ribs of the rubber grommet of the old stator versus the new one. But the biggest difference was the grommet ribs were flimsy on the old one compared to the new one. There is clearly some movement of the grommet in the crank case bore in a Harley engine. The new stator's grommet ribs were very firm and shaped perfectly. I can see how all of the heat cycles and chain case oil does eventually take a toll on the grommet causing the oil leak. I suppose it is possible to repair the oil leak but in my situation that wasn't necessary.

Harley updated the stator a few years ago just to make those ribs better.  With no sealant the old ones leaked often.  The new one is definitely a better piece so you're not hurt at all making the change.  The old ones will seal with a good sealant installed.  But the new one is definitely a better part there.