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CVO Technical => Cleaning/Detailing => Topic started by: DCFIREMANN on November 17, 2006, 05:29:11 PM
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OK DOOD now here is your chance to SHINE!!!!!
Give us your best on how to detail a bike.
I am going to wait to give up my secrets till later on.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
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Dawg,
I dunno there were a few with Detailing OCD at JCI this year. I think Dood has some competition in this dept.
What products do you use and in what stages do you use them?
Which Products do you like the best which should we stay away from?
Only thing I can add to don't do's is dont drop a Walmart Blue Micro Fiber cloth on a hot exhaust pipe .... They melt and create quite the mess.
This string outta be a good one.
-harry
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OK DOOD now here is your chance to SHINE!!!!!
Give us your best on how to detail a bike.
I am going to wait to give up my secrets till later on.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
There others here that are way better at it then me. [smiley=nixweiss.gif] All I do is a good detail when I wash, and wipe it down after each ride. I'm in the process of trying some new things that I've recently heard about and saw in use in MV by those that were more "talented" in this area then me. ;D
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
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Well, let me be the first to mention Glare products in this section of the board!
http://glare.com/
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OK
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ok how about thia here in the southwest we have a big problem with water spots, I use to wash the bike then use a parts washer with disilled water to rinse then blow dry. after I got the new paint I ask my dealer what he recommended, he told me to go to home depot and buy a mr clean car wash system..... this chit works great, you can watch the water disappear off the bike and no water spots. there is 1 thing I am cocerned with though, I recently bought some glare products, it say's on the bottle do not use with other poylmer agents. mr clean is a poylmer product. any coments?????????? [smiley=confused5.gif]
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Had spokes on my 02 road king and spent about 2hrs doing nothing but the wheel 3 different size bottle brushes and 2 nylon brushes. I use hd sun wash (no mitt, just cloth diapers 1/4) on both bike along with bike bright. I wash she dries and we both polish with diamond luster wax and micro fiber clothes. One bike gets washed each friday weather permitting.
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ok how about thia here in the southwest we have a big problem with water spots, I use to wash the bike then use a parts washer with disilled water to rinse then blow dry. after I got the new paint I ask my dealer what he recommended, he told me to go to home depot and buy a mr clean car wash system..... this chit works great, you can watch the water disappear off the bike and no
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Sorry folks,
Maybe old school, but soap and water to wash the bike......lot's of soap and lot's of water (that way you get no scratches from dust.....like on saddlebags etc.). Dry the bike (maybe a good blow job with a compressor and nozzle......towels, chamis...what ever). Carnuba wax on all painted parts (2 coats are best). Chrome is best rubbed with never dull or the like and then waxed. Engines are best done with simple green and scrubbed (to remove the weaping of the gaskets....like between the block and trans). I don't do it enough, but wish I had time too, and then you're ready to think about doing leather (LEXOL is the best on the planet....No discussion....it's been around since the beginning of time and is still the best leather conditioner on the planet...they make a cleaner too {Lexus owners get a bottle with their new cars}) JMHO........
That's the way you do it see.......
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thanks dood you the man... hell, need answers just ask on this site ........ kind of like a jenny in a bottle!!!!!! [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
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ok how about thia here in the southwest we have a big problem with water spots, I use to wash the bike then use a parts washer with disilled water to rinse then blow dry. after I got the new paint I ask my dealer what he recommended, he told me to go to home depot and buy a mr clean car wash system..... [highlight]this chit works great, you can watch the water disappear off the bike and no
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To wash I use Crystal Glo acrylic cycle wash with very, very hot water. Rinse heavily. Then blow dry the bike.
To remove light scratches I use S100 cleanser with micro fibre cloth.
I then follow that up with Rod & Custom Show Gloss Creme (amazing shine!) applied with a microtech cloth. www.zingading.com/paintsealants.html
For protection I use Crystal Glo Acrylic Polish. Incredibly deep wet look. The whole line of Crystal Glo products are world class in my opinion. www.crystal-glo.com
For the windscreen, lights & directionals I use plexus with crystal glo.
On the chrome I use either S100 polishing soap (this works great on head & cylinder fins while washing) or Master Formula Metal Gloss. It also protects very well. www.metalgloss.com To remove burnt rubber on pipes I'll use Never Dull. Goo Gone also works great to remove stains on motor.
For exotic leather I use Bickmore. Bick 1 cleaner & Bick 4 conditioner. Nothing better in existance. www.bickmore.com
On the tires I use Meguiars Endurance tire gel. Looks wet and lasts.
For the quick detail I use a California car duster then Wizards Mist N Shine. Removes bugs great and has a real nice gloss. Their micro fibre clothes are great! www.wizardsproducts.com
Spray WD40 on a Qtip to remove light rust in chrome allen or torx fasteners.
Wax on.... Wax off....
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twincam,
The thing that eliminates the water spots isn't the detergent, it's the deionized water final rinse. This is the same thing found at many car washes, called "spot free rinse". You can actually buy deionized water, or a deionizing filter for your regular tap water, and just use it for a final rinse after washing the bike with your choice of automotive detergents (I personally like Blue Coral, but there are many other brands that work just as well). The small deionizing filter in the Mr. Clean unit only lasts for maybe 3 washes; it would probably be more cost effective over time to use a DI filter in a whole house filter housing to perform a final rinse. One example of a readily available DI filter that fits common housings: http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=USF_PCF1-10MB
Jerry
but, also the soap in mr clean says with dry rinse palymer????
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[highlight]but, also the soap in mr clean says with dry rinse polymer???? [/highlight]
I know, but you will find that many of the other commercially available car detergents also promote sheeting action.
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Jerry, I know your not knocking the product, and any cost affective advice is great by me...... I am hearing you. and learning from what you are saying. hell, I don'tt even know what a polymer is....... looked up the definition and still don't know??/? seems to me by the def, it about everything ;D..... any advice is well takin bro.twincam
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glare guy just emailed me........ I think he danced around my question, but, I asked him again, we will see what he says this time ;) seems like a pretty good guy though...... just wants you to use glare for everything ,guess I would to if I was part of the company.
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ok maybe I was wrong he answered!! has anyone tried the glare wash??? ;D
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I ordered the wash, and the leather cleaner/sealer and all the other polishes etc. should hit early this week I hope, I have a black vette that will get the frist tests of this product. I might try it on my screwed up '06 paint, just to see what it will do to one of these parts. Lost on which Cloth to use...The HD rep told me that a dry micro fibre rag or any dry clothe will leave scratches on the paint?, I cant believe this, how the hell do you get the wax off then and buff to a high luster???
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Mike a dry micro fibre towel will not scratch the paint. But, you can use a light mist of detailer of your choice on top of the polish or sprayed directly on the towel, prior to removing the polish. I feel that with polishes other than Glare, this can help to improve luster. With the Glare, I just used a plain, dry micro fibre towel, though, and achieved outstanding results!
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[highlight]ok maybe I was wrong he answered!! [/highlight]has anyone tried the glare wash??? ;D
OK what did he say???????
Me I personally use Zaino products. I start with a good wash with S100 and Zaino wash. When I am done washing I blow dry the bike and put it up on the lift. I can now get under the bike and wipe it down. After that it is Zaino either the 3 step polish system or just spray it with Zaino Detailer and wipe it down. Chrome gets the same treatment.
If I have any stains on the powder coat on the engine or trans before I wash it will get sprayed with 2+2 cabr cleaner.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
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Oh and I forgot. I use only 100% cotton towels on my vehicles.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
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Oh and I forgot. I use only 100% cotton towels on my vehicles.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
Dawg
That's what I use to use in the old days.
Then Otis led me out of the cotton darkness with the use of microfiber cloths.
Not going back!
You can get them at Sams.
Thanks Otis!
[smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
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OK
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OK what did he say???????
Me I personally use Zaino products. I start with a good wash with S100 and Zaino wash. When I am done washing I blow dry the bike and put it up on the lift. I can now get under the bike and wipe it down. After that it is Zaino either the 3 step polish system or just spray it with Zaino Detailer and wipe it down. Chrome gets the same treatment.
If I have any stains on the powder coat on the engine or trans before I wash it will get sprayed with 2+2 cabr cleaner.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
he told me he doesn't know the ph of mr clean but he is sure it is high and he wouldn't use it :-/
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Dawg
That's what I use to use in the old days.
Then Otis led me out of the cotton darkness with the use of microfiber cloths.
Not going back!
[highlight]You can get them at Sams[/highlight].
Thanks Otis!
[smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
Thanks Chip I will have to give them a try.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
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Thanks Chip I will have to give them a try.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
Dawg,
Chip is right, you won't be disappointed with the Microfiber, they're cheap and work awesome. Use them, run them through the wash and they're ready to go again.
Ed
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Ok...I use all Glare products, even the wash. I wash the bike with a sheepskin mitt, glare, and mildly warm water (mostly to keep my hands from freezing in this kind of weather). Here's my rational...I use only Glare products on the bike for polishing, and was so impressed with it, I figured they had to know what they were talking about with the wash too, and from my point of view, their products are the best, bar none. I blow dry the bike with a Cycle Dryer...don't use compressed air unless you are certain the tank has no oil or water in it...most do, unless you have an air dryer/oil remover. This is one thing I know something about from being in the pneumatic HVAC control business for 18 years...ALL compressed air has some oil/water molecules in it unless it is condensed out with an air dryer...For tools, airing up your tires, etc...not a problem. Then I use a microfiber cloth to touch up the areas that might have a water spot or two on them from blow drying.
I know I sound like a friggin' Glare commercial, but the chit works as promised. Carnuba wax actually COLLECTS dirt and dust on the finish, and does not penetrate/bond with the finish. It will look good, but is not durable.
My two cents worth...
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I use Sunwash, a mitt, 100% cloth diapers, and hot water for the wash, followed by a 200mph Husqvarna leaf blower for drying....with a screen over the outlet in case the impeller craps out. Then I use Corrosion Technologies' "Rejex" as a paint protectant http://www.corrosionx.com/. That stuff is awesome. I've used it for years on aircraft. For those who spend any time in south Alabama/northwest Florida during the lovebug season, there is simply nothing better with which to protect your paint from those pesky fu(k bugs. They come off with nothing more than a spray of water from a hose.......if you get to them shortly after you finish riding. And the shine is unbeatable. Needs to be applied about once every four months. After riding, I wipe the bike down with a clean, wet diaper, and detail with Harley Gloss and Spray Polish and Detailer.
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This mention of "Love Bug" again had me go Google them. I didn't realize the extent of the problem, how pesky they are, and the extent of the damage they can cause. One of the articles state they are more prevalent during April - May/August - September, and if you don't get them off within 48 hours permanent damage can be done to paint. :'(
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
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Man you guys - - - - was at SD H-D this afternoon and lo and behold H-D sells Microfiber polishing cloths. $6.50 apiece. NO I did not buy any. I remember someone on this thread said you get em cheaper -- - - where was it ? Oh yeah, SAMS- - - like I got a SAM's Club card. Ask Beags I hate paying less for something than I absolutely have to. LOL
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.....
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Seed is already planted, [highlight]your hosed[/highlight]. [smiley=oops.gif] [smiley=nervous.gif] [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
Is that fireman talk ????
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Is that fireman talk ????
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B B.......Auto Zone....3 for $4.95, much better quality than HD.
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[smiley=lipsrsealed.gif] [smiley=lipsrsealed2.gif] :-X [smiley=vrolijk27.gif] :o [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
You're gonna knock me out,tie me up with duct tape,give me something that tastes awful,scare the chit out of me, shock me and feed me pumpkin pie. Oh good I like the shock part, it was real fun when my heart was all messed up and you know I love pie.
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B B.......Auto Zone....3 for $4.95, much better quality than HD.
Thanks
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This mention of "Love Bug" again had me go Google them. I didn't realize the extent of the problem, how pesky they are, and the extent of the damage they can cause. One of the articles state they are more prevalent during April - May/August - September, and if you don't get them off within 48 hours permanent damage can be done to paint. :'(
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
Yup, they are VERY corrosive..........which is one reason I'm happy that we don't live down there any longer. Still, whether one lives there, rides through there, or deals with other bug splatters, Rejex is awesome for easing their removal.
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Thanks I just started going to Autozone recently.
Kragin Auto hired some new guy who gave me chit about my used oil. Been going to the same Kragin store since I move here and told the manager to take his new hire and his store shove em both.
B B
Dag gone Big B, getting a little cranky are we [smiley=nixweiss.gif]
Hogasm
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Dag gone Big B, getting a little cranky are we [smiley=nixweiss.gif]
Hogasm
You've got to admit Brian, it's pretty annoying when the local all-lines parts store and machine shop that's been there for years starts getting people on the counter that are about as helpful as the common parts person that are the dufii (dufuses?) on the counter at the Harley shop.
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Dag gone Big B, getting a little cranky are we [smiley=nixweiss.gif]
Hogasm
It's the new site rules Hogasm. I got all this angst and no where to vent
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It's the new site rules Hogasm. I got all this angst and no where to vent
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It's the new site rules Hogasm. I got all this angst and no where to vent :o
B B
PS
Twolane. I think it's Dufii [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
Big B if you want to see some venting then you might want to go by Beagles today ;)
just messing [smiley=oops.gif] I guess I am lucky that one of my fishing partners has a multi fuel burner in his shop. All my used oil goes toward his heating. It is a pain when any company that one has been dealing with for so long changes their policy overnight. Makes some of us not so compasionate about their changes.
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DO NOT USE A COMPRESSOR with air. There are impurities and such which could affect your paint. Chamois is probably best bet. There really is no easy way, it's all time consuming.
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DO NOT USE A COMPRESSOR with air. There are impurities and such which could affect your paint. Chamois is probably best bet. There really is no easy way, it's all time consuming.
Now this is a first. My compressor's got a big in-line filter in it. Where would the impurities come from ? And there is an easy way. Do like the guy who was selling an 03 SERK on the site awhile back did. Don't ride it and keep it garaged. Bike had something like 200 miles on it. I'm still in shock over that concept.
B B
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Now this is a first. My compressor's got a big in-line filter in it. Where would the impurities come from ? And there is an easy way. Do like the guy who was selling an 03 SERK on the site awhile back did. Don't ride it and keep it garaged. Bike had something like 200 miles on it. I'm still in shock over that concept.
B B
I have heard this before about not using air hose/line coming from compressors to dry your bike. I've heard even w/filters that some oil, impurities, and moisture comes out of those lines. :nixweiss: Also heard it said that using a leaf blower isn't good either because of the stuff that it could pick up off the ground. :nixweiss:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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I have heard this before about not using air hose/line coming from compressors to dry your bike. I've heard even w/filters that some oil, impurities, and moisture comes out of those lines. :nixweiss: Also heard it said that using a leaf blower isn't good either because of the stuff that it could pick up off the ground. :nixweiss:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Been using a leaf blower for years, and have had great results. One thought does stick in my mind though............what if the impeller throws a blade? OUCH..............so I started putting a net over the end of the nozzle. Still works just as good. I thought about getting one of those electric blowers designed for drying motorcycles, but I can't bring myself to do it when I have a perfectly good Husqvarna back pack leaf blower in my garage.
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Been using a leaf blower for years, and have had great results. One thought does stick in my mind though............what if the impeller throws a blade? OUCH..............so I started putting a net over the end of the nozzle. Still works just as good. I thought about getting one of those electric blowers designed for drying motorcycles, but I can't bring myself to do it when I have a perfectly good Husqvarna back pack leaf blower in my garage.
You're not alone on using the leaf blower. I too use one to dry my bike. I'm real careful about pointing/getting the intake close to the ground, and also careful about getting the hard tube close to bike. I own one of the cheap hand held bike blower w/rubber tube that I use for close up work, however that doesn't move as much air. The smaller one would be nice for travelling, but it would take some time to dry the entire bike off.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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Having worked with control air systems for building pneumatic controls, which work with tiny orfrices in the controls, the ONLY way to have pure, dry, oil free air is to have the compressed air flow through an aftercooler/filter to remove the impurities in the air...like any other engine, a compressor bypasses some oil in the compression stroke. Most air compressor tanks have drain valves on the bottom to remove the moisture. I use the electric hand held version on the bike, with the soft rubber tip.
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You're not alone on using the leaf blower. I too use one to dry my bike. I'm real careful about pointing/getting the intake close to the ground, and also careful about getting the hard tube close to bike. I own one of the cheap hand held bike blower w/rubber tube that I use for close up work, however that doesn't move as much air. The smaller one would be nice for travelling, but it would take some time to dry the entire bike off.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
I also use a back pack leaf blower to dry the bike. Works fantastic. The electric units are pretty slick too, but I have never used one.
Chief
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Before I bought my Husqvarna, I used a Homelite. Not sure why it did this, but one day it suddenly started leaving an oil film on the bike.....almost as if the exhaust went into the air stream.........the muffler was totally separate. That's when I bought the Husky.
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Having worked with control air systems for building pneumatic controls, which work with tiny orfrices in the controls, the ONLY way to have pure, dry, oil free air is to have the compressed air flow through an aftercooler/filter to remove the impurities in the air...like any other engine, a compressor bypasses some oil in the compression stroke. Most air compressor tanks have drain valves on the bottom to remove the moisture. I use the electric hand held version on the bike, with the soft rubber tip.
WOW...my head is hurting.
I use a gas powered leaf blower to dry off. Since the ground is wet all around the bike...no dust.
it's like a 160 mph breeze..so very little escapes it and I have to do very little if any drying by hand.
Cheers, sooie
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I use the electric hand held version on the bike, with the soft rubber tip.
Got one of those after seeing you use yours Terry. The new dealership in NW Arkansas had them all over the parts counter "on sale" for $49.99 so I figured what the hell. Have used it a couple of times now and it's a pretty slick little tool. Doesn't eliminate the chamois. But pretty slick for places you'd never get otherwise.
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I have a Stihl BR 600 in the garage and she does the trick :2vrolijk_21: Later,Q