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CVO Technical => EVO => Topic started by: HEADPAN62 on August 07, 2007, 09:44:42 PM
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ok,,here we go,, I have been running the same combo as far as displacment,,cam,, headwork ..etc for about 10 years...latley she has not been starting...the bendix drive gear seems too be jumping on and off the ring gear during cranking....it only happens when the motor first turns over,,cant seem too get past the first compression stroke,,once it does she cranks like hell,,but getting past the first stroke is tough ,,especially when she is hott...replaced the silinoid 2x,,replaced relay,,replaced clutch basket and ring gear,,replaced bendix drive 2x,,bought a new harley starter and 1 week later returned it and got a (all balls ) hi tourque starter..so I'm at wits end here..ready too launch her off the Ben Franklyn Bridge(!@#$%&)...soo..... if I retard the timing a smidge(like the old manual advance pans) will she crank more easy?? or is it the other way around??..and refresh my memory,,on cone motors,,to advance timing you turn clockwize?? why for some reason am I thinking counter clockwize..by myself here so breaking out the timing lite is not happening anytime soon,,any help would be apreciated,headpan.....compression release is a cure but never needed them b/4...
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headpan,
First thing I would check is the battery cable to the starter for high resistance. It has been fairly common for the Harley cables to corrode inside the insulation, where you can't easily see it. High resistance gets worse at high temps, leading to a worse problem when trying to start the engine when it's hot. Check the ground side also.
Jerry
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ok,,here we go....soo..... if I retard the timing a smidge(like the old manual advance pans) will she crank more easy??...
Yes.
..and refresh my memory,,on cone motors,,to advance timing you turn clockwize??
Yes, clockwise advances the timing. Rotate the timer plate with the cam's rotation to retard and against the cam's rotation to advance the timing; the cam rotates counterclockwise.
BTW, check the battery cables as outlined in the previous reply.
djkak
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thanks fella's..i will replace the cable for g/p.....dont think that is the culpret though
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i snugged down my battery cables today and the main ground,,, so far it seems to help... we shall see....my battery is fairly new also and says its putting out properly.
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compression release is a cure but never needed them
That was my first thought reading your post. I like manual releases as they help save the components needed to start the bike.
The combo has worked for ten years. The new parts were in an attempt to get it to start. The bike turns over fine after the initial stroke..........
I would have said battery first.... although it cranks just fine after one revolution.
Next I would have said the starter gear.... it has been replaced 2X.
Is this a wired starter button or a starter solenoid end cap button?
If it is a wired button, pull the starter solenoid end cap off and use a hammer handle and push in on the plunger. You can rule out wiring issues (Other than battery cables) this way.
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I run an extra ground wire from the battery to the mounting bolt of the starter. Other wise the ground has to travel all the way through the frame which can corrode over time especially if it's a rubber mounted engine. You didn't mention how "built" your engine is compression etc as usually if it's 10/1 or over about 95" you should run compression releases. The other thing I have found is the over running clutch can slip and it sounds like pinion gear is grinding on the clutch basket. Also the bendix gear has to match the over running clutch and the spring otherwise the pinion gear will not engage the basket gear all the way and will rip the teeth out. Pull the pinion gear out all the way before you put the primary cover on to make sure it engages the teeth fully. I also kick the starter in with the plugs out and the primary cover off to make sure every thing is good before it gets buttoned up. Check the Amps output on your battery as the higher output AGM batteries out there now make a huge difference.
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thanks.... i'm gonna check out the things you mentioned.
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One other thing that I found works great on electrical connections in general is a product by T&B called copper shield you can get it at most electrical wholesale outlets. It's like copper coat but for electrical connections, prevents corrosion and promotes good conductivity. It can be messy so just use a little and wipe of the excess, the best thing I have found for battery connections.