Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[HEADPAN62]

80 inch evo
SE heads
EV-27 cam
Crane single fire ignition

Just got the s&s carb.. anyone running this set up? What jets should I start off with?  the 72/195 I'm thinkn would be to lean.

[screem]

The195/72 will probably be pretty close..... Keep the accelerator pump to a minimum when dialing setup in. my '95 is running same cam and ignition, with mild head work done, I believe I am runnig a 70 on the main jet...... Good luck

[TomL]

Never heard of a 195 jet for S&S but my experience with cam and head mods and jets are like this; start with the .0295 Intermediate and 70 main. If after a few test rides/plug checks you might switch to the .028 Intermediate and step up to a 72 main jet. Again take plug checks and be sure your accelerator pump is correct. If you are too lean the motor will tend to act like it speeds up when chopping throttle, if it doesn't then you are very close. It should pull smooth and hard from 2500/2800 rpms to rev limiter if you dare go there. What exhaust system has and effect also, free flowing off road types round out your motor/cam/head mods, the exhaust is critical as the burnt fuel gases have to get out of the way fast enough for the new fresh charge coming in thru carb. Keep a box of new plugs handy to for plug reads. The most accurate way to read plugs is to maintain your road speed then chop throttle and roll to a stop without idling, shut off and check the plugs. RN12y or HD's equivelent in heat range, or Autolites(4265)which some swear by for the EVO's. TL

[faceracer]

80 inch evo
SE heads
EV-27 cam
Crane single fire ignition

Just got the s&s carb.. anyone running this set up? What jets should I start off with?  the 72/195 I'm thinkn would be to lean.

on my 85 fxr i ran an ev35 cam Branch heads, Crane hi4 and thunderheader. I had best results with 31 intermediate jet and a 74 main. I believe a new S&S E ordered for your bike would come with a 29 and 72 as mentioned. You got a little more cam so I think a 31. Now with the accl. pump Shut down you should get the bike good and warm then slowly turn the adjustment screw in each direction and you will here your rpm's peak and go down. You want to be 1/2 way between the drop off points. The adjustment screw should be about 1-1/2 to 2 turns out. If it is further you need to go up one size intermediate jet then readjust. Once you find the correct jet there start to turn the accl. pump on in 1/2 turn increments. each time from idle grab a little hand full. you got it right when it when it revs without hesitation or sputter. You got it right if you can play the "whitey song" without sputter or puking "rum rum, rum rum rum"! The main jet can be set by checking plug color after about 100 miles. However you can get on an open road and in high gear and from 1/2 throttle twist it all the way and you should accl. smoothly. if you can let off a little and it feels like it speeds up your main is too big drop one size. This is the seat of the pants method used before the dyno was so popular. I have tuned allot of S&S carbs and really like and reccommend a Thunderjet and a turbulator ring in the intake for 2-cycle rev type performance. I hope this helps.

Face

[HEADPAN62]

Thanks for the replys fellas.. Yes I am sorry I meant a 295 and a 72.. I know this is a good starting point for a stock motor. But I figured with my cam and heads I needed more.
 
I noticed when getting on the throttle hard after shifting into another gear, she pops through the pipes, not on de-eceleratoin thou. So I will bump her up to the 31-74.

Oh and a HUGE flat spot between 2000 and 3000 rpms. once it hits 3000, she has great pulll and torque
. kinda hard to tune her now thou.. 29 degrees out and snow...
I am a great engine assembler and builder, but fine tuning is not my specialty.

[faceracer]

What kind of pipes are you running? If you have open straight/ drag pipes the flat spot will be hard to completely eliminate. You need some back pressure unless you want to just run it wide open all the time. That's way they call them drag pipes. I ran 15 different exhaust on my 85 fxr (At a great expense) and ended up going back to the Thunderheader. I think it is the best all around for a wide power band and good sound. You can also be quite when needed which is nice after a few drinks .

[wfolarry]

Thanks for the replys fellas.. Yes I am sorry I meant a 295 and a 72.. I know this is a good starting point for a stock motor. But I figured with my cam and heads I needed more.
 
I noticed when getting on the throttle hard after shifting into another gear, she pops through the pipes, not on de-eceleratoin thou. So I will bump her up to the 31-74.

Oh and a HUGE flat spot between 2000 and 3000 rpms. once it hits 3000, she has great pulll and torque
. kinda hard to tune her now thou.. 29 degrees out and snow...
I am a great engine assembler and builder, but fine tuning is not my specialty.

Sounds rich to me. I'd lean it out.

[HEADPAN62]

I thought the same wfolarry. But it cant be.. Bigger intake valves and the cam?  Why would jettingbe leaner then the stock 80 inchers out there?

I do have street sweeper pipes by samson exaust with no baffles.. Thunderheader for a Dyna might be hard to find.... Dont want it to be to quiet either... somewhere in the middle would be cool...

[faceracer]

http://www.thunderheader.net/ex.html

Thunderheaders for all Harley's

[wfolarry]

Good heads & a cam will pull harder on the carb so a leaner jet is sometimes needed.
Your exhaust will change your jetting requirements as well.

[HEADPAN62]

ok, I just ordered the Bassani 2 into 1 road rage exaust in black.. Ill do some rejetting this weekend. I did try a 74 on the main with a 31 slow jet.. Too much fuel..

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Sounds rich to me. I'd lean it out.

I was scrolling down thru this, and agree it sounds rich as well.
Make 1 move at a time, and I'd start by pulling that main down.
Scott

[TomL]

Too fat on the Intermediate/possibly the main too. My motor has a .502 lift cam, ported heads, free flow dual exhausts, KN filter element. It gets by just fine, good plug readings and lots of power with the .028/72 set up. TL

[HEADPAN62]

ok, its been a while, but the end result was a defective s&s carb..
Got another new carb and she was tunable..

Ended up with the supertrap pipe..

Carb jetting 31 and a 74....ride on.. Headpan

[faceracer]

on my 85 fxr i ran an ev35 cam Branch heads, Crane hi4 and thunderheader. I had best results with 31 intermediate jet and a 74 main. I believe a new S&S E ordered for your bike would come with a 29 and 72 as mentioned. You got a little more cam so I think a 31. Now with the accl. pump Shut down you should get the bike good and warm then slowly turn the adjustment screw in each direction and you will here your rpm's peak and go down. You want to be 1/2 way between the drop off points. The adjustment screw should be about 1-1/2 to 2 turns out. If it is further you need to go up one size intermediate jet then readjust. Once you find the correct jet there start to turn the accl. pump on in 1/2 turn increments. each time from idle grab a little hand full. you got it right when it when it revs without hesitation or sputter. You got it right if you can play the "whitey song" without sputter or puking "rum rum, rum rum rum"! The main jet can be set by checking plug color after about 100 miles. However you can get on an open road and in high gear and from 1/2 throttle twist it all the way and you should accl. smoothly. if you can let off a little and it feels like it speeds up your main is too big drop one size. This is the seat of the pants method used before the dyno was so popular. I have tuned allot of S&S carbs and really like and reccommend a Thunderjet and a turbulator ring in the intake for 2-cycle rev type performance. I hope this helps.

Face

Well I'll be damned! I guess Face knows alittle something about S&S Carbs on an EVO!