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CVO Technical => Trailers / toyhaulers => Topic started by: JONNIEROCK on March 04, 2020, 04:25:44 PM
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I'm retiring soon and would like to trailer my bike down south in the winter time. I'm looking to haul 2 baggers. Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Need to know stuff like width,length, single axle, double axle, and so on. Plus any other info you think would be hopeful.
Thanks Jonnierock
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While I am no expert on the subject, I would recommend no smaller than a 7x12 enclosed trailer with drop down drive in back door and stabilizer jacks. For this size a single axle would be fine but be sure to carry a spare. I would also highly recommend 15" wheel diameter and a sufficient man door for access. 2 really good quality wheel chocks with high quality ratchet straps and soft ties (I use the Wheeldock with great success) or the ever popular Biker Bar.
JMHO
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While I am no expert on the subject, I would recommend no smaller than a 7x12 enclosed trailer with drop down drive in back door and stabilizer jacks. For this size a single axle would be fine but be sure to carry a spare. I would also highly recommend 15" wheel diameter and a sufficient man door for access. 2 really good quality wheel chocks with high quality ratchet straps and soft ties (I use the Wheeldock with great success) or the ever popular Biker Bar.
JMHO
Good advice here. I would get a tandem axle v-nose and Condor trailer chocks are great.
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I've got a 7 X 12 and it's great for 1 bagger. You can get 2 baggers in it but it's tight. if I were hauling 2 all the time I would go with 8.5 X 14.
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Dual axle, torsion bar suspension.
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I formerly sold M/C trailers and most folks who haul 2 bikes buy a 7x12 tandem axle trailer. Trailer brakes aren't but should be a law on a this large of trailer with the added weight of two dressers. Non-slip floor and gate, I prefer nickel or coin rubber flooring. Three lengths of E-track solidly mounted to floor. E-Track is so good for multiple tie down points and the ability to move bikes front to back without worrying about changing the tie-down points. Buy LED Lighting package and try to get as much interior lighting as you can, also LED.
Big debate on V-Nose vs Flat nose, I prefer flat nose, V-Nose is iffy behind a motorhome or pick-up with topper if you go thru a dip the V can impact the tow vehicle. If you need additional space.. buy a longer trailer. I also prefer a Lo-Hauler style vs the normal height. You don't live in the trailer, while drag that extra height thru the wind and if you live in deed restricted area the Lo-hauler will go inside your standard height garage. If trying to load and tie-down two dressers you MUST have self retaining chocks like a Condor. This way one person can load and secure them, almost IMPOSSIBLE using a pingle or similar style chock. There is just not enough room to use the kickstand while tieing them down, They have to sit up by themselves, ie: Condor.
In all honesty a 8 or 8.5 wide is easier to load but more expensive, not very popular in higher grade (motorcycle use) and hard to find without ordering. BUT a 8.5x14 is the perfect motorcycle hauler, easy to load, easy to stagger the bikes and more area for storage in the front. MAKE sure anything in the front is secured or it will end up on the bikes.
If you intend to keep it for along time and depending on what you are going to use to tow it, look into the newer all aluminum trailers. They are nice. If your in Florida try Best Price Trailers on Ridgewood in Daytona/Holly Hills. They usually have some good stuff to check out, helps to form opinion of what you need.
Good Luck.
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I travel all over the nation to RV rallies installing Proteng Automatic RV Fire Suppression in RVs. Most toyhaulers owners (and diesel pusher owners pulling enclosed trailers) that have Harleys are using the B&W Biker Bar (designed for Harleys only). So much easier and so much more secure than straps. You can YouTube it. You can do a search on this forum or YouTube. I've been ocean to ocean twice and half way back across again and never an issue.
I would suggest a double axle torsion susspension trailer with brakes, rubber non-slip deck mat.
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And I would suggest putting extra LED lights up high, on the back end. Most trailers the car immediatly behind you can see that you're hitting your brakes but the next three or four cars behind them can't see that unless your lights are up high.
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I formerly sold M/C trailers and most folks who haul 2 bikes buy a 7x12 tandem axle trailer. Trailer brakes aren't but should be a law on a this large of trailer with the added weight of two dressers. Non-slip floor and gate, I prefer nickel or coin rubber flooring. Three lengths of E-track solidly mounted to floor. E-Track is so good for multiple tie down points and the ability to move bikes front to back without worrying about changing the tie-down points. Buy LED Lighting package and try to get as much interior lighting as you can, also LED.
Big debate on V-Nose vs Flat nose, I prefer flat nose, V-Nose is iffy behind a motorhome or pick-up with topper if you go thru a dip the V can impact the tow vehicle. If you need additional space.. buy a longer trailer. I also prefer a Lo-Hauler style vs the normal height. You don't live in the trailer, while drag that extra height thru the wind and if you live in deed restricted area the Lo-hauler will go inside your standard height garage. If trying to load and tie-down two dressers you MUST have self retaining chocks like a Condor. This way one person can load and secure them, almost IMPOSSIBLE using a pingle or similar style chock. There is just not enough room to use the kickstand while tieing them down, They have to sit up by themselves, ie: Condor.
In all honesty a 8 or 8.5 wide is easier to load but more expensive, not very popular in higher grade (motorcycle use) and hard to find without ordering. BUT a 8.5x14 is the perfect motorcycle hauler, easy to load, easy to stagger the bikes and more area for storage in the front. MAKE sure anything in the front is secured or it will end up on the bikes.
If you intend to keep it for along time and depending on what you are going to use to tow it, look into the newer all aluminum trailers. They are nice. If your in Florida try Best Price Trailers on Ridgewood in Daytona/Holly Hills. They usually have some good stuff to check out, helps to form opinion of what you need.
Good Luck.
I could not agree more. I haul 4 dressers so I have a 8.5 X 20 trailer and would never consider any other tie down system other than the Biker Bar. I have never had an issue and the bike rides on it's suspension which is not overloaded by straps. Easy ride on pull off. Also if you can get a tube frame rather than a channel frame trailer it is stronger. Also look for a one piece roof to prevent leaks in the future.
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Agree with everything above, dual axle is a must. The only thing I would add is if you do go with a 7' wide trailer go 14' long so you can stagger the bikes. That will "help" fit 2 fairing bikes in that size trailer. 8' wide would be best.
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I am strongly against the biker bar as I have said before. Everyone has an opinion but the Biker Bar bolts to too small of a footprint to be secure in a trailer. Most trailers have angle iron crossbars welded side to side and a plywood floor. If you bolt a Biker Bar to the plywood it is an accident waiting to happen. IF you take the time and expense to add in steel supports (weld-in) to secure the Biker Bar then O.K.
But otherwise nope.
Also towing repeated miles without a problem is not any indication of a good product. It just means you have not YET experienced a situation that will stress your mounting points. Just remember if you hit something, or someone hits you and rips that Biker Bar out of the floor the bike becomes a 900# Missle, still attached to the BikerBar that will destroy everything it comes in contact with before it looses momentum or flies thru the side of the trailer.
Be careful mounting whatever system you choose and let your own opinion be the final determination.
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I would agree that the Biker Bar bolted to just plywood is an issue. But they are recommended to be bolted to a large backing plate so that the [lywood is not securing any bolts at all. Most "D" rings I have seen are secured the same way by the trailer manufacturers
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I have a 7x14 v-nose trailer. I haul two street glides in it staggered and they fit no problem. I have 3 pieces of e-track mounted to the floor and use the condor wheel chocks. The only problem I had was on the first ever trip the straps would be lose every time I checked the bikes, that wasn't because of them being bad but because they were brand new and haven't stretched out. Have hauled the bikes to Arkansas twice, the smoky mountains once and heading to sturgis again this year without a single problem. I would suggest a two axle trailer also, I wanted a two axle for the simple reason if I get a flat I have time to get to the side of the road without damaging a rim.
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I have a Iron Horse extra wide trailer. Very happy with the quality. Easy to haul and only changers gas mileage by 1 mile per gal. very nice people. I know only single axle scared me a little but I have used this trailer for 20,000 miles with no issue. I will buy new tires a little early just to be on the safe side. You really can't tell the trailer is behind you . handles the wind great. You do need the extra wide for 2 baggers. Billy
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The Biker Bar isn't screwed or bolted to a plywood floor. It's bolted to two 1/4" steel plates that are 4"x5" that are under the plywood floor. It's 1/4" steel plate on top bolted to two 1/4" steel plates underneath the trailer.
There are photos floating around the internet that show a toyhauler that was in an accident and landed upside down, on it's top. The Ultra Classic was still mounted and hanging upside down, undamaged. You're not going to see that with straps.
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I totally agree that everyone is entitled to an opinion and this is a very costly situation if done improperly. I've hauled several times with front wheel chocks and four straps. I've also with this setup had the bike twist and tip to the side. Not much damage but scared the bejesus out of me when we stopped to inspect the bikes. So sometimes one chooses wisely and sometimes you choose poorly. The only way I could keep my rear wheel solid was to screw 2"x4" down the sides of the rear tire to the floor. I know, straps can do this too, but I was really leery of scratching my chrome wheels and didn't want to take my bags off to get access to the swingarm, kind of defeats the purpose I guess.
Not to just follow the rules (instructions that is), I can sometimes be a bit anal and go a bit overboard on things. Case in point my two Biker Bars installed in my new to me toy hauler.
Please take the time to go over a thread I posted a few months ago about the install of my two Biker Bars.
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=119501.15 (https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=119501.15)
I have a 1-1/8" one piece plywood floor in my toy hauler. B&W says it's okay to use their under floor mounting plates and bolt it all in with just what my floor provides. But I REALLY wanted to connect my sub-floor plates to something more substantial than just plywood, regardless of how thick it may be. The thread link above shows how I added 1/4" angle to attach and sandwich my sub-floor plates to combine the toy hauler's main frame to the Biker Bar. It was a LOT of work, but I KNOW I can haul without any issues and load and unload in no time at all.
Okay, that's my opinion and the Biker Bars are not cheap. I got my two off Facebook Marketplace for $200/each. That's just under half price and they were both in like new condition, as you can see in the linked thread above. Once out, the two 5/8" holes get little plastic flush plugs and the carpet is none the wiser when laid back down. No one would ever know what lays beneath.
Whatever one does for securing your bike, do it well and with care. I've only hauled 20 miles or so for now, but I have no concerns with what I have installed.
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I went with a 7 x 14 and was perfect for 2 baggers.
JK