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CVO Technical => Drive Train => Topic started by: USNCVO on January 28, 2021, 11:25:02 AM
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Any of you have belt or transmission issues on high hp/tq builds. I ended up at 140/152 and was wondering what I'm in for.
R/Don
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Depend somewhat oh how you abuse the belt. I had 208/178 and never broke a belt. But I didn't do any burnouts or wheel stands either!
BigLew
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I blew 3rd gear out last season and 3 belts on my built 128.. 140 and 150.. I switched transmission to the Grudge box and my bike is at the builder now getting chain drive... I will be the first to say I’m very hard on my bike... Transmission was my fault, Rolling shifting burnout into 3rd BANG!!! Belts snapped on double clutching.. It’s all in how you plan on riding your bike.. Lots of people running big numbers without belt or transmission issues.. Only you know how you are going to use your power..
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Thanks for the replies so far. The most I will be doing is roll-on pulls against Brothers. I have a Busa to beat on.
R/Don
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Any of you have belt or transmission issues on high hp/tq builds. I ended up at 140/152 and was wondering what I'm in for.
R/Don
I did a 6000 mile trip back in August on my 2017 CVO Limited 128 built by Fuelmoto. (141hp/151Tq) The bike is now at 11,000 miles. No issues at all from a belt or transmission perspective so far (or any other perspective for that matter).
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I have had no issues with roll ons, but when you power shift, launch, wheelies all bets are off. I have and ride multiple 150, 160 and 170+ hp/tq all the time, get togethers, touring etc and haven’t had issues.
If I get aggressive racing etc. I break belts. So it’s all in how you ride it. Hard launches and power shifts at some point will bite you.
I had gone chain drive, but went back to belt as I got tired of stretching chains/links, and the gunk getting everywhere from the lube.
Hope that helps,
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I built my 130" to 163 HP and 167 torque. I have put just over 21,000 miles on the build with stock transmission and belt.
I do not do wheelies per say, have lifted front tire a very little as in couple inches. I do not do WOT shifts into 3rd. Do not do first gear clutch dumps.
I do run it hard, I just do not beat on or abuse it.
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Here's a question for you Boys. Where's the break even point in HP / Torque (in your opinions) for these bikes when you want to ride it hard (no burnouts /wheelies) just fast take offs and high rpm shifts occasionally? I ask because it seems a waste to put a bunch of money & dyno time into my bike and not really get the full benefit of using all that HP except for the occasional roll on without a grudge box (3K more money) and some quality time on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck to scratch my bike up cause I blew a belt.
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I do everything Dave doesn’t do!!! Hence why I needed the Grudgebox and chain drive... If you are going to hammer your bike, I PROMISE something will eventually break... This comes down to how YOU plan on riding your bike with new found power..
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Here's a question for you Boys. Where's the break even point in HP / Torque (in your opinions) for these bikes when you want to ride it hard (no burnouts /wheelies) just fast take offs and high rpm shifts occasionally? I ask because it seems a waste to put a bunch of money & dyno time into my bike and not really get the full benefit of using all that HP except for the occasional roll on without a grudge box (3K more money) and some quality time on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck to scratch my bike up cause I blew a belt.
If your going to build it and those are your requirements why not build a reasonable 117 or a low compression 124. Then you have the reliability and some power to enjoy. Personally the 124 LC is a great choice gives you the torque to ride the hills, pass on the highway with ease and still get 120-126 hp with 140-145 torque if right parts, exhaust and breather are used.
If you dont want to go that far do a middle of the road 117 and make 120+ hp and 125-130 torque. Depends on your wallet and your thrill factor. in any of these cases your still paying for tune and license/tuner
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Very good advice there. Been thinking about annealing the gears, maybe third anyway. Some big guys with their SO on back and a lot of power/tq and hard rollons is a formula to strip third.
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Heat treating 3rd seems a smart thing to do and a LC 124 piston / cylinder (Unbalanced) is good advice for my needs and probably the way I will go. I have a FullSac system with a heavy breather and a can tune right now and on the bench a new TTS tuner, cam, cam bearing, push rods & injectors. So who's piston / cylinder kit would you guys recommend that comes in the CVO granite color?
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Heat treating 3rd seems a smart thing to do and a LC 124 piston / cylinder (Unbalanced) is good advice for my needs and probably the way I will go. I have a FullSac system with a heavy breather and a can tune right now and on the bench a new TTS tuner, Injectors, cam, cam bearing, push rods & injectors. So who's piston / cylinder kit would you guys recommend that comes in the CVO granite color?
I would go with S&S raw granite cylinders get your piston and then cut cylinders to match the pistons. You could call Frank Drago get his pistons which are CP and get them sized to your compression needs. You also have Keith Black or Diamond. I have gotten many sets from Frank.
Not a real fan of weisco and JE.
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I use S&S cylinders and have CP make me custom pistons standard forgings, full skirt, inboard pin. I hone the cylinders here in plates on a Sunnen CV616.
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Thanks for the response guys! I'm not crazy about the S&S on the cylinders but I guess I could get over that, I will contacting this coming week.
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I would like to sell their piston and cylinder kits but I don't care for their pistons or the quality of honeing. Check them in torque plates.
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When Frank has my cylinders bored they are done on a CnC boring machine. My local guy checks them every time and they are perfect.
Cost a little extra, but worth it to me.
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For extra money we will buy the cylinders unfinished put them in a oven 400 degrees tQ plates for 24 hours to take any extra stress out of them and then powder coat them and have Steve bore them. We do that on some higher output forced induction builds . Not cheap but it works great! Any questions you can always call us 815-765-1790 DBW