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[Coyote.]

I finally got around to making my bag locks wireless today. I have to say it was very easy. I bought an after market car remote lock module (with key fobs) for around $39 from JC Whitney. I installed the module under the fairing and only had to cut 4 wires. Now the dash switch is disabled and the key fobs can lock and unlock the bike with the ignition off. I know they added this on the 08's but it's easy to do if you have an 07. 

[sadunbar]

I finally got around to making my bag locks wireless today. I have to say it was very easy. I bought an after market car remote lock module (with key fobs) for around $30 from JC Whitney. I installed the module under the fairing and only had to cut 4 wires. Now the dash switch is disabled and the key fobs can lock and unlock the bike with the ignition off. I know they added this on the 08's but it's easy to do if you have an 07. 

Can you supply some details and/or pictures of what you did under the fairing?

thanks...

[Coyote.]

I didn't take any photos. My fairing has so much add on stuff under it I'm not sure it would help. The lock I bought is this one.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2001394/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2001394/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=remote+lock

I removed all but 5 wires from the connector harness of the after marked module.

Those I left were

1. Module Power - Hooked to battery power
2. Relay Power - Hooked to battery power (cut away from the existing relay power lines, 2 of them)
3. Ground - to chassis ground
4. Unlock Relay power - Hooked to the existing unlock relay line I cut.
5. Lock Relay power - Hooked to the existing lock relay line I cut.

I can provide the location and colors of the 4 wires to cut if you need them.

I hope this helps but anyone could do this mod. I'm not sure if everyone has figured this out but if you ride places and don't physically lock your bike, anyone can come up, turn the switch to Accy, the alarm will NOT go off, and they can unlock your bags. That's a big design problem I think. This mod fixes all of that.

[TCinVA]

I didn't take any photos. My fairing has so much add on stuff under it I'm not sure it would help. The lock I bought is this one.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2001394/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2001394/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=remote+lock

I removed all but 5 wires from the connector harness of the after marked module.

Those I left were

1. Module Power - Hooked to battery power
2. Relay Power - Hooked to battery power (cut away from the existing relay power lines, 2 of them)
3. Ground - to chassis ground
4. Unlock Relay power - Hooked to the existing unlock relay line I cut.
5. Lock Relay power - Hooked to the existing lock relay line I cut.

I can provide the location and colors of the 4 wires to cut if you need them.

I hope this helps but anyone could do this mod. I'm not sure if everyone has figured this out but if you ride places and don't physically lock your bike, anyone can come up, turn the switch to Accy, the alarm will NOT go off, and they can unlock your bags. That's a big design problem I think. This mod fixes all of that.

Coyotedata,
I'd appreciate the additional information you offered.  Sounds like something I want to do soon.  What did you use to connect to the "cut" wires?
Thanks,
TC

[Coyote.]

TC,

I soldered all 4 of the cut connections and used heat shrink to cover them. You could you the crimp butt splices but I always prefer the solder and shrink method. The relays are located at the end of a harness, under the fairing, on the right side. You just need to split the black wrap around the wire bundle and cut 4 wires. Cover 4 ends with heat shrink as they are unused. The 4 wires going to the relays are spliced into the 4 wires from the aftermarket lock module. You will need a wire brought up from your battery to power the module so it works with the ignition switch off. This is pretty easy as you can run it up the top of your tank under the console. That's pretty much it though.

[mr_magoo]

great info thanks for sharing.

[TCinVA]

TC,

I soldered all 4 of the cut connections and used heat shrink to cover them. You could you the crimp butt splices but I always prefer the solder and shrink method. The relays are located at the end of a harness, under the fairing, on the right side. You just need to split the black wrap around the wire bundle and cut 4 wires. Cover 4 ends with heat shrink as they are unused. The 4 wires going to the relays are spliced into the 4 wires from the aftermarket lock module. You will need a wire brought up from your battery to power the module so it works with the ignition switch off. This is pretty easy as you can run it up the top of your tank under the console. That's pretty much it though.

Coyotedata,
Thanks for the insight.  Pretty straight forward.  Thanks for sharing.
TC

[Eqcons]

I finally got around to making my bag locks wireless today. I have to say it was very easy. I bought an after market car remote lock module (with key fobs) for around $39 from JC Whitney. I installed the module under the fairing and only had to cut 4 wires. Now the dash switch is disabled and the key fobs can lock and unlock the bike with the ignition off. I know they added this on the 08's but it's easy to do if you have an 07. 

Is there a way to do it but leave the dash switch enabled too?

Jim

[Coyote.]

Yes, just splice into the two wires that come from the dash switch rather than cutting them away. Why would you want to do that though? Having the dash switch enabled is a real security problem if you leave your bike without the ignition in the Lock position.

[Eqcons]

Yes, just splice into the two wires that come from the dash switch rather than cutting them away. Why would you want to do that though? Having the dash switch enabled is a real security problem if you leave your bike without the ignition in the Lock position.

Yes, I realised within a week of getting the bike what a problem it would be, security wise, but I'd like to have it remote controlled so the little woman can go to the bike to get her stuff out without me or the key, when the ignition is locked, and get in to get her stuff out, by giving her a remote to carry.

Jim

[Coyote.]

Sure, that would work fine then. Let me know if you want the exact wire colors and everything. I have the CVO manuals still out from doing mine.

[Eqcons]

Sure, that would work fine then. Let me know if you want the exact wire colors and everything. I have the CVO manuals still out from doing mine.

Please, that would be great! 

Jim

[Coyote.]

Please, that would be great! 

Jim

Hey Jim, no problem. I can post the info now or if you can wait a couple of days, I'll have the fairing off and can include some photos. Either way is fine with me. 

[Eqcons]

Hey Jim, no problem. I can post the info now or if you can wait a couple of days, I'll have the fairing off and can include some photos. Either way is fine with me. 

Just posting the info would be fine! 

Jim

[Coyote.]

I used the IC Dynamics Remote Keyless Entry System model 2RTA. This consists of a small module with a 10 pin connector. I removed the unused wires leaving only the 5 wires needed.

Wires needed from the module are...

White
Red
Black
Green
Yellow

The unused wires may be removed completely by using a sharp point and pushing in on the pin release on the side of the connector.

Both the Red and White wires have an inline fuse and both need to be connected to the positive terminal of the battery. Since there was no need to have two fuses, I connected White wire to the Red Wire so that they shared a single 15 amp fuse.

Now you should have just 4 wires coming from the module. (Red, Black, Green, Yellow).

Next it is time to work with the lock relays. They are located together at the end of a harness on the right side of the fairing. To give myself some working room, I carefully split the black wrap around the wire bundle back about 4 inches. This makes it much easier to access the wires as they go into the bottom of the relay sockets.

First find the two large Red/Violet wires. These wires supply switched battery power to the lock relays. Cut these two wires, then cover the open ends (with some heat shrink) of both as they come out of the wire bundle. You won't need these. For the two Red/Violet wires coming from the relay socket, you should connect them together and then to the positive side of the battery along with the Red wire from the module. This will give both the module and relays power 100% of the time. This is the most difficult part because you will need to run an unswitched battery line up.

Next, locate the Green/Black and Blue/Black wires. These are the Unlock and Lock control lines respectively. If you want to keep the dash switch operational, then you will be splicing into these lines. If you do not want to keep the dash switch, then cut these wires and terminate the wire coming from the bundle and only connect to the wire from the relay socket.

Connect the Green/Black wire from the relay socket to Green wire from the remote module.

Connect the Blue/Black wire from the relay socket to the Yellow wire from the remote module.

Last, connect the Black wire from the remote module to the bike chassis (Ground).

And that's it. I used some wiretires to hold the black cover back in place over the wire bundle going to the relay socket.

Let me know if anything wasn't clear. - Keith