Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[TonyP]

Hello All,

I'm about to get both my clutch and brake master cylinders cerekoted.  I will need to bleed the lines when I re-install them.  Do I need to bleed the ABS as well?



Thanks
Tony

[Dan_Lockwood]

Hello All,

I'm about to get both my clutch and brake master cylinders cerekoted.  I will need to bleed the lines when I re-install them.  Do I need to bleed the ABS as well?

Thanks
Tony

Tony,

I remember a few years ago everyone was saying that the brakes had to be hooked up to the HD PC to have the ABS bleed out correctly.

I'm not sure that's still the case or not.

There will probably be other chime in with more up to date information.

[krypto2011]

When I swapped my bars, I disconnected both the brake and clutch lines. I made sure the lines were kept as high as possible so they did not lose the fluid that was in them, and when I connected the lines back to the master cylinders, I filled the reservoirs and bled them manually. It worked fine and 3 summers later, never had a soft brake or clutch problem.

[grc]

As krypto2011 mentioned, if you plan ahead and keep air out of the lines and the rest of the system, and don't turn on the bike so the ABS pump runs of course, you should be able to avoid doing a full system bleed.  I'd suggest getting some fittings you can screw onto the lines you remove from the M/C's, or at the very least some tight fitting rubber caps, to keep moisture out while the system is opened up.  Start by suctioning the fluid out of the reservoirs, then hold the M/C up so the line is straight up, then remove the fitting and cap the line.  Needless to say, protect everything from the fluid that will inevitably drip.  Tie the lines up to something overhead.  When you get the M/C's back, reverse the process.  Once the M/C's are back on the bike, fill the reservoirs, install the cap, and let the bike sit and self bleed overnight (most of the small amount of air in the outlet port of the M/C and the fitting for the line should gradually work it's way to the reservoir, but probably not all).  Then do a manual bleed, starting with the fitting at the M/C since they have a tendency to trap some air depending on the orientation of the fitting.

I hope that makes sense.

Jerry

[TonyP]

Awesome my lines are up an covered.  Have to wait a week to get my M/C back. Lol