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[ultrafxr]

Had rear tire replaced two weeks ago at dealer and immediately upon leaving dealer I noticed slight low speed wobble that was not there before tire change.  Got home and checked that tire was fully beaded, wheel aligned and axle nut tightened.  Every thing looked fine.  I've put 1,500 miles on new tire and problem still there - especially noticeable when turning from parking lot onto street and accelerating lightly.

Planned to redo the rear wheel torque procedure and bought rear axle 36mm nut ratchet wrench, Kastar p/n 9636 which is made for the baggers.  Wrench will not go on the axle nut because there is not enough space between the nut and the shock eye bolt.  Running Legends - are their eye bolts bigger?

Any help / thoughts apprecieted.  I know it could be swing arm bushings - neck bearings.  But the confusing thing it that it definitely was not there before the tire change and immediately began then.  Bike tracks and runs fine at speed - no wobble, no weave, no vibration.

[Chief]

Had rear tire replaced two weeks ago at dealer and immediately upon leaving dealer I noticed slight low speed wobble that was not there before tire change.  Got home and checked that tire was fully beaded, wheel aligned and axle nut tightened.  Every thing looked fine.  I've put 1,500 miles on new tire and problem still there - especially noticeable when turning from parking lot onto street and accelerating lightly.

Planned to redo the rear wheel torque procedure and bought rear axle 36mm nut ratchet wrench, Kastar p/n 9636 which is made for the baggers.  Wrench will not go on the axle nut because there is not enough space between the nut and the shock eye bolt.  Running Legends - are their eye bolts bigger?

Any help / thoughts apprecieted.  I know it could be swing arm bushings - neck bearings.  But the confusing thing it that it definitely was not there before the tire change and immediately began then.  Bike tracks and runs fine at speed - no wobble, no weave, no vibration.

Jerry,

All of the normal culprits responsible for a wobble would normally be associated to some sort of dynamic action / reaction couple. The fact that you've got a low-speed problem, especially at parking lot speeds makes me immediately think tire problem. What you describe sounds exactly the type of result a bent rim on a car produces. At slow speeds, the bent rim is rolling slow enough that it can drive the side-to-side motion of the car in that familiar wiggle. When the speed picks up, it's rolling too fast to move that much mass, so it kind of goes away.

I would look for stuff like tread separation, bubble, wierd tread pattern or other problem with the tire or rim. I don't think you'd see those type of handling issues at that speed from worn parts that weren't worn when you took it in, and aren't even adjusted during the procedure of replacing a tire.

I'd take it back to the dealer and have them ride it. It would be hard to argue that you're trying to gain anything by having them replace a new tire.

Good luck.

[ultrafxr]

Jerry,

All of the normal culprits responsible for a wobble would normally be associated to some sort of dynamic action / reaction couple. The fact that you've got a low-speed problem, especially at parking lot speeds makes me immediately think tire problem. What you describe sounds exactly the type of result a bent rim on a car produces. At slow speeds, the bent rim is rolling slow enough that it can drive the side-to-side motion of the car in that familiar wiggle. When the speed picks up, it's rolling too fast to move that much mass, so it kind of goes away.

I would look for stuff like tread separation, bubble, wierd tread pattern or other problem with the tire or rim. I don't think you'd see those type of handling issues at that speed from worn parts that weren't worn when you took it in, and aren't even adjusted during the procedure of replacing a tire.

I'd take it back to the dealer and have them ride it. It would be hard to argue that you're trying to gain anything by having them replace a new tire.

Good luck.

Thanks Chuck.  I was thinking the same thing - bad tire - since it showed up immediately after tire change.  Do you have any info about the axle wrench not fitting with my Legends?

[Twolanerider]

The immediate before and after has to be the tell-tale Jerry.  Since you've checked assembly issues that would be part of that before and after it's not at all unfair to tell them you've got what is very likely a flaky tire.

[Chief]

Thanks Chuck.  I was thinking the same thing - bad tire - since it showed up immediately after tire change.  Do you have any info about the axle wrench not fitting with my Legends?

I can only imagine that the lower shock mount is larger diameter than the stock shocks so the ratchet mechanism hits. I use a 36mm socket which will have thinner walls than the ratchet wrench you've got. Of course using the socket means the right muffler has to come off to use it.

[Midnight Rider]

Jerry...unless you can find a crow's foot open ended wrench (I was unable to find one), you gotta take something off to use either a socket or the type you have.  Remove the lower shock bolt and swing it out of the way.

I'd say you've got a bad tire, or your rim got bent during installation of the new tire.  Even if you can't see anything on the outside of the tire, if the core is flawed, it could cause the problems you're describing.

[ultrafxr]

Jerry...unless you can find a crow's foot open ended wrench (I was unable to find one), you gotta take something off to use either a socket or the type you have.  Remove the lower shock bolt and swing it out of the way.

I'd say you've got a bad tire, or your rim got bent during installation of the new tire.  Even if you can't see anything on the outside of the tire, if the core is flawed, it could cause the problems you're describing.

Yeah I kinda figured that.  Got 36mm socket but this wrench said it would work without removing right muffler, lol, NOT.  Now I'm wondering if my socket will fit without removing the lower shock bolt.  Damn they do make it a pia to even do simple things.

[stekat]

Had rear tire replaced two weeks ago at dealer and immediately upon leaving dealer I noticed slight low speed wobble that was not there before tire change.  Got home and checked that tire was fully beaded, wheel aligned and axle nut tightened.  Every thing looked fine.  I've put 1,500 miles on new tire and problem still there - especially noticeable when turning from parking lot onto street and accelerating lightly.

Planned to redo the rear wheel torque procedure and bought rear axle 36mm nut ratchet wrench, Kastar p/n 9636 which is made for the baggers.  Wrench will not go on the axle nut because there is not enough space between the nut and the shock eye bolt.  Running Legends - are their eye bolts bigger?
Any help / thoughts apprecieted.  I know it could be swing arm bushings - neck bearings.  But the confusing thing it that it definitely was not there before the tire change and immediately began then.  Bike tracks and runs fine at speed - no wobble, no weave, no vibration.

I use an "Axle Nut Torque Adapter" PN HD- 47925.  It works great for either loosening the axle nut for belt adjustment or removing the nut completely.  Your torque wrench is unaffected as long as you keep the adapter at 90 deg. to the wrench.  Nothing need be removed from the bike.

[Midnight Rider]

Yeah I kinda figured that.  Got 36mm socket but this wrench said it would work without removing right muffler, lol, NOT.  Now I'm wondering if my socket will fit without removing the lower shock bolt.  Damn they do make it a pia to even do simple things.

Jerry...the wrench you have would work with the stock shocks, but the Legends are a bit "beefier" on the knuckle ends, so it won't fit.  I'd lots rather remove the one lower shock bolt than the exhaust pipe though!!  You might even get by if you just loosen both bolts and move the shock out just a bit...it only lacks a few of those red hairs from going over the nut.

[Boatman]

Damn they do make it a pia to even do simple things.

I've found working on mine that nothing is simple.  We give the tech's a hard time and sometimes they deserve it but the work can be a PIA as we know.

I, like others believe the tire is bad or they broke a belt installing it on the rim.

I have the Progressives with thicker shock eyes and the Kastar wrench will barely go on and only in one spot. I stll take the RH side muffler off to use the socket and antiseize the heck out of the muffler inlet and sand the pipe off good before the antiseize.  I bought a wrap strap to take the muffler off the next time.

[ultrafxr]

I use an "Axle Nut Torque Adapter" PN HD- 47925.  It works great for either loosening the axle nut for belt adjustment or removing the nut completely.  Your torque wrench is unaffected as long as you keep the adapter at 90 deg. to the wrench.  Nothing need be removed from the bike.

The Kastar is a rachet and that may make it larger on the od I would think.

[hogasm]

I also have the Kastar  9636 wrench and it will not fit on my bike with the stock shocks. I also have another ratcheting wrench that will not fit either.

The Kastar will fit on Kathy's Street Glide. I guess the swingarms were built on different jigs.

On my bike I use a 36mm socket and have to drop the right muffler.

[ultrafxr]

I also have the Kastar  9636 wrench and it will not fit on my bike with the stock shocks. I also have another ratcheting wrench that will not fit either.

The Kastar will fit on Kathy's Street Glide. I guess the swingarms were built on different jigs.

On my bike I use a 36mm socket and have to drop the right muffler.

Thanks hogasm.  Ain't that special - esp when they specifically say it will fit on FL models so you do not have to remove muffler.

[stekat]

The Kastar is a rachet and that may make it larger on the od I would think.

I measured the HD adapter for you at it's narrowest point (from the bottom of a point to the outside of the tool), it's 0.220".  Also the tool is 1/4" thick steel.  I put either a breaker or torque wrench on it at 90 deg. and find it very easy to use.  But I don't use progressives.  Stop by your dealer and ask to see their tool; see if it slips on the nut from underneath.

PS:  I just checked the clearance to the lower shock mount (stock shocks) with the tool on the axle nut; it's 0.115 (almost 1/8").

[ultrafxr]

I measured the HD adapter for you at it's narrowest point (from the bottom of a point to the outside of the tool), it's 0.220".  Also the tool is 1/4" thick steel.  I put either a breaker or torque wrench on it at 90 deg. and find it very easy to use.  But I don't use progressives.  Stop by your dealer and ask to see their tool; see if it slips on the nut from underneath.

PS:  I just checked the clearance to the lower shock mount (stock shocks) with the tool on the axle nut; it's 0.115 (almost 1/8").

Thanks.

[ultrafxr]

I almost bought those Dyna Balancing Beads and was going to have dealer put them in vs balancing the tire.  So very glad I didn't do that 'cause that would be a 'perfect' excuse as to why I was having problems!

[Chief]

I almost bought those Dyna Balancing Beads and was going to have dealer put them in vs balancing the tire.  So very glad I didn't do that 'cause that would be a 'perfect' excuse as to why I was having problems!

Not at slow speed like you're experiencing the problem. It takes a good bit of rotational speed for them to move around and at only 2 or 3 oz, you'd never feel them even if they were in a big clump at that speed.

[Hoist!]

Jerry, make sure it's balanced, or balanced properly.

Hoist!

[ultrafxr]

Not at slow speed like you're experiencing the problem. It takes a good bit of rotational speed for them to move around and at only 2 or 3 oz, you'd never feel them even if they were in a big clump at that speed.

Right you are chief.  You know that and I know that but do you really think that would stop them from claiming that was the problem?  Gawd on my previous bike my power commander was blamed for my cruise control problem - it would surge and not hold steady speed.  Sometimes they just grasp at the most convenient thing to blame and if it ain't stock, well that must be the problem.

[old wrench]

Just wondered did you stay with the same brand of tire? I have seen guys put a different brand on the back and run into problems like this.

[iski]

Howie's response made me think of the possible cause.  Possibly you threw a wheel weight after it was balanced.  Has happened to me & it is noticeable.

[Chief]

Right you are chief.  You know that and I know that but do you really think that would stop them from claiming that was the problem?  Gawd on my previous bike my power commander was blamed for my cruise control problem - it would surge and not hold steady speed.  Sometimes they just grasp at the most convenient thing to blame and if it ain't stock, well that must be the problem.

You're definitely right on that one. I'm in the same boat now that the bike was rebuilt. There's a possibility that ANYTHING that goes wrong now could be blamed on the rebuild. I trust my SM and more importantly, he trusts me so I don't think it would be a problem, but I'm sure some would try for that to get out of accepting a claim.

Any news on the remedy?

[ultrafxr]

Just wondered did you stay with the same brand of tire? I have seen guys put a different brand on the back and run into problems like this.

No - used the stock Lop 402.

[ultrafxr]

Howie's response made me think of the possible cause.  Possibly you threw a wheel weight after it was balanced.  Has happened to me & it is noticeable.

Good thought but I checked the number of weights (5) when I got home and 5 are still on.  No indication of one being lost and there is no vibration.

[ultrafxr]

You're definitely right on that one. I'm in the same boat now that the bike was rebuilt. There's a possibility that ANYTHING that goes wrong now could be blamed on the rebuild. I trust my SM and more importantly, he trusts me so I don't think it would be a problem, but I'm sure some would try for that to get out of accepting a claim.

Any news on the remedy?

Took it back to dealer this morning.  SM said tire probably out of round (has seen it before).  Most likely just replace tire and see if problem goes away.

[Chief]

Took it back to dealer this morning.  SM said tire probably out of round (has seen it before).  Most likely just replace tire and see if problem goes away.

Sounds like the most logical scenario. Let us know when you get it back.

[blowncobra]

Sounds like a bad tire or the bead was damaged when installed. Life is too short to ride with a wobble!

[old wrench]

Took it back to dealer this morning.  SM said tire probably out of round (has seen it before).  Most likely just replace tire and see if problem goes away.

They would have told me, it was a loose nut behind the handle bars 

[ultrafxr]

Got the bike home last evening but raining then and raining now so no time to check it out other than the ride home which seemed ok.  Tech said problem was vehicle slightly out of alignment (maybe due to engine swap in Dec?) and front tire was cupped.  So did alignment and replaced front tire.  We'll see if this cures the problem completely.  Sure hope so.

[ultrafxr]

Got the bike home last evening but raining then and raining now so no time to check it out other than the ride home which seemed ok.  Tech said problem was vehicle slightly out of alignment (maybe due to engine swap in Dec?) and front tire was cupped.  So did alignment and replaced front tire.  We'll see if this cures the problem completely.  Sure hope so.

After overnight road trip last weekend it was obvious that above did not fix the problem.  So I pulled the rear wheel last night and took it to dealer this morning.  Tech measured lateral runout on tire - .020 on left side & .060 on right.  Spec limit is .090.  Dealer said in spec and not replacable under warranty so I paid for new tire.  Got it mounted and problem cured.  So regardless the tire was defective.  Bad tire had 6 oz of weight all in one spot which made me suspect all along.  New tire has 2 oz - one on each side.  Spoke to Dunlop and they said go back to dealer since should be warrantable and call them if have any problem.  So I'll take the tire back tomorrow and see if I can get a refund.

[Rooster]

Glad to hear the wobble is solved. A few years back I put a new set of tires on and ended up with a wobble at 45-55. Had front tire rebalanced, still had the wobble, went to another Hd shop and had them check, this time agreed tire had a slight defect put on new tire and wobble gone. Sure can mess with your head until solved though.

[ultrafxr]

Glad to hear the wobble is solved. A few years back I put a new set of tires on and ended up with a wobble at 45-55. Had front tire rebalanced, still had the wobble, went to another Hd shop and had them check, this time agreed tire had a slight defect put on new tire and wobble gone. Sure can mess with your head until solved though.

Hindsight being 20/20 I should have stuck to my guns and told them to replace the tire and if that did not solve the problem then I would pay for it.  Problem arose immediately after first tire installed so I felt all along that was the problem.  Now I've got a new front tire and an alignment I really did not need and a second rear tire that I did need.  Live and learn.  Just glad it is fixed.

[Chief]

Hindsight being 20/20 I should have stuck to my guns and told them to replace the tire and if that did not solve the problem then I would pay for it.  Problem arose immediately after first tire installed so I felt all along that was the problem.  Now I've got a new front tire and an alignment I really did not need and a second rear tire that I did need.  Live and learn.  Just glad it is fixed.

Glad you got it fixed Jerry. Go get 'em.

[Midnight Rider]

Hindsight being 20/20 I should have stuck to my guns and told them to replace the tire and if that did not solve the problem then I would pay for it.  Problem arose immediately after first tire installed so I felt all along that was the problem.  Now I've got a new front tire and an alignment I really did not need and a second rear tire that I did need.  Live and learn.  Just glad it is fixed.

Jerry...go after them about the rear tire...it was obviously defective.  The cupping on the front should not be a problem any longer after the Traxxion front end, if you're running the right air pressure, which I'm certain you are.  Once a wear pattern is established on a tire, you cannot reverse it, so the cupping problem may have started prior to the Traxxon upgrade.  Or, the front tire was not properly balanced from the get go.

[ultrafxr]

Jerry...go after them about the rear tire...it was obviously defective.  The cupping on the front should not be a problem any longer after the Traxxion front end, if you're running the right air pressure, which I'm certain you are.  Once a wear pattern is established on a tire, you cannot reverse it, so the cupping problem may have started prior to the Traxxon upgrade.  Or, the front tire was not properly balanced from the get go.

The cupping the tech showed me after he switched the tire was so inconsequential I truly could not see or feel it.  They just went down the wrong road.  There was nothing wrong with my front tire that I could see.  Like I said, I should have stuck to my guns and gotten another rear tire rather than change the 'cupped' front tire and do the alignment.  Smarter (and poorer) for sure!

[spydglide]

maybe dyna-beads would cure it.   spyder

[old wrench]

Glad you got your low speed wobble fixed, I was going to tell you that I use to have a low speed wobble on all my bikes years ago, but it only showed up in the evenings. Tried everything to fix it finaily found out what it was, the Budwiser level was to high in the driver  learned my limitations, adjusted the level of Bud and the wobble went away 

Realy though you only have two under ya, I changed my tires every 2 years or on mileage or wear which ever comes first. I change both of them at the same time, you can always sale you old skins to someone and recoop a little of the cost. I carry a plug kit in the bag, its a get me back to town have too, then the tire is replace, I do not patch. 

[Chief]

maybe dyna-beads would cure it.   spyder

More on this later but I think I have found and eliminated the cause of my problem........ excess vibration. Haven't had the bike to speed yet, so I can't say for sure.

[blowncobra]

Thought so. I would suggest that if the tech mounted the tire and placed 6 ounces of weight upon it to balance it. He is an IDIOT, that should have been his first clue as soon as he balanced it he should have stopped rechecked and replaced the tire. Might want to find a new tech. I just hate to hear stories like this, these guys have to understand that someones life depends on them doing their job correctly. Good luck and ask them for a free service for your aggravation. 

[roadrunner]

After installing the dyna beads do you remove your wheel weights?

[Chief]

After installing the dyna beads do you remove your wheel weights?

I did. That was the main reason I went to the beads, to get rid of the self-canceling, always-a-pain-to-clean-around, ugly wheel weights.

[REGGAB]

Had rear tire replaced two weeks ago at dealer and immediately upon leaving dealer I noticed slight low speed wobble that was not there before tire change.  Got home and checked that tire was fully beaded, wheel aligned and axle nut tightened.  Every thing looked fine.  I've put 1,500 miles on new tire and problem still there - especially noticeable when turning from parking lot onto street and accelerating lightly.

Planned to redo the rear wheel torque procedure and bought rear axle 36mm nut ratchet wrench, Kastar p/n 9636 which is made for the baggers.  Wrench will not go on the axle nut because there is not enough space between the nut and the shock eye bolt.  Running Legends - are their eye bolts bigger?

Any help / thoughts apprecieted.  I know it could be swing arm bushings - neck bearings.  But the confusing thing it that it definitely was not there before the tire change and immediately began then.  Bike tracks and runs fine at speed - no wobble, no weave, no vibration.

ARRRRRGH!  REALLY wish I'd seen this prior to my purchase.  Same result with Bitubo's.  Doggone it.  That was an expensive mistake.

[ultrafxr]

ARRRRRGH!  REALLY wish I'd seen this prior to my purchase.  Same result with Bitubo's.  Doggone it.  That was an expensive mistake.

Yup.  I bought a 36mm socket last year also.  When I pulled the rear wheel a friend with a lift table helped me.  His 36mm socket would not fit either, but mine did - it is thinner walled (from Sears).  So watch out on sockets also Henry as not all with fit.

[REGGAB]

Yup.  I bought a 36mm socket last year also.  When I pulled the rear wheel a friend with a lift table helped me.  His 36mm socket would not fit either, but mine did - it is thinner walled (from Sears).  So watch out on sockets also Henry as not all with fit.

I have a 36mm CRAFTSMAN socket, and it fits.  I'm thinking I'm going to buy a 36mm open end wrench and modify it (read:  cut it off 4 inches below the open end and machine a .5" square drive hole for the TQ wrench 1 inch from the cut off).

[stekat]

I have a 36mm CRAFTSMAN socket, and it fits.  I'm thinking I'm going to buy a 36mm open end wrench and modify it (read:  cut it off 4 inches below the open end and machine a .5" square drive hole for the TQ wrench 1 inch from the cut off).

Seems like a lot of trouble to go to?  You might read "Reply #7" to this post and save yourself all that work.  I use it regularly.

[REGGAB]

Seems like a lot of trouble to go to?  You might read "Reply #7" to this post and save yourself all that work.  I use it regularly.

That was my initial quest.  Stealership won't sell them to us commoners, so I blindly bought the KASTAR.  After looking at your picture, it is doubtful it would fit my application anyway.

[stekat]

That was my initial quest.  Stealership won't sell them to us commoners, so I blindly bought the KASTAR.  After looking at your picture, it is doubtful it would fit my application anyway.

I use it on my '08 CUSE3 w/o removing anything but the bags.  I've also used it on earlier baggers.  What's your application? 

I bought mine from my dealer w/o a blink, I think it was $29.  Try another dealer or you could probably order from Chicago Harley.

[REGGAB]

I use it on my '08 CUSE3 w/o removing anything but the bags.  I've also used it on earlier baggers.  What's your application? 

I bought mine from my dealer w/o a blink, I think it was $29.  Try another dealer or you could probably order from Chicago Harley.

Bitubo Shocks.  Wrench won't fit, because lower shock eyebolt is thicker than stock.

[stekat]

Bitubo Shocks.  Wrench won't fit, because lower shock eyebolt is thicker than stock.

Ultrafxr above had the same problem, but I think it worked for him.  Try one more thing.  The dealers routinely use this wrench in the shop.  Ask them to see if they can get their wrench onto your axle nut.  If not, you have your answer.

[Chief]

More on this later but I think I have found and eliminated the cause of my problem........ excess vibration. Haven't had the bike to speed yet, so I can't say for sure.

Here's the follow-up on the dyna-beads after getting rid of the extra vibration. They're fine. They work. No problems. No ugly weights on the tire.

The theory is that the extra vibration was preventing the beads from settling into the light spot of the tire. Evidently they were just bouncing all around inside the tire instead of gathering together. Imagine strapping a bowl to a pad sander, fill it with little tiny tiny beads and then turn on the sander,,,,bead chaos. Evidently that was what was happening, especially right in the low 70's.

No more tire balancing for me and no more expensive tire changes. Time to start changing tires at home.

[old wrench]

Here's the follow-up on the dyna-beads after getting rid of the extra vibration. They're fine. They work. No problems. No ugly weights on the tire.

The theory is that the extra vibration was preventing the beads from settling into the light spot of the tire. Evidently they were just bouncing all around inside the tire instead of gathering together. Imagine strapping a bowl to a pad sander, fill it with little tiny tiny beads and then turn on the sander,,,,bead chaos. Evidently that was what was happening, especially right in the low 70's.

No more tire balancing for me and no more expensive tire changes. Time to start changing tires at home.

Hey Chuck with the money your going to save on balancing you can get a nice tire changer, and be a friend to all  check this out if you havent seen one its a nice changer and easy to use
www.nomartirechanger.com

[Chief]

Hey Chuck with the money your going to save on balancing you can get a nice tire changer, and be a friend to all  check this out if you havent seen one its a nice changer and easy to use
www.nomartirechanger.com

I saw those at the IMS show last year. It was pretty impressive, but I don't go through enough tires to warrant that much of an investment. I understand Harbor Freight has one that is hitch mounted and good for first timers like me.

[spydglide]

Here's the follow-up on the dyna-beads after getting rid of the extra vibration. They're fine. They work. No problems. No ugly weights on the tire.

The theory is that the extra vibration was preventing the beads from settling into the light spot of the tire. Evidently they were just bouncing all around inside the tire instead of gathering together. Imagine strapping a bowl to a pad sander, fill it with little tiny tiny beads and then turn on the sander,,,,bead chaos. Evidently that was what was happening, especially right in the low 70's.

No more tire balancing for me and no more expensive tire changes. Time to start changing tires at home.

Hey Chief, that's great news on the dyna beads.  Now, tell me how you got rid of the excess vibration.  spyder

[old wrench]

I saw those at the IMS show last year. It was pretty impressive, but I don't go through enough tires to warrant that much of an investment. I understand Harbor Freight has one that is hitch mounted and good for first timers like me.

A friend of mine has had one for 2 years, I have one of the air from Snap-on got it along with the Snap-on balancer, and I still from time to time go over and use his, works better on the custome wide rims. The Snap-on changer has some small plastic slide plates on the head and they wear out quick, they come in a pack 12 for about 65.00 and there is only 4 out of that pack that really fits the head, the others our for another type tire machine and you cant get them buy there self. We make them work for old rims that you dont worry about to much, but when some one comes in with a brand new shinny high dollar rim, well a new one is put on before that tire is mounted for sure. The cost of my Snap-on mount and balancer around 5K about 8 years ago, the nomar and dyna beads would be about 1K and still do the same job oh well at least some things get cheaper in life 

[Chief]

Hey Chief, that's great news on the dyna beads.  Now, tell me how you got rid of the excess vibration.  spyder

I removed the Sta-Bo bushings. I like the theory, but the execution didn't work out as well as I had hoped. I'm riding without any extra gadgetry for the rear end until it is proven necessary.

[spydglide]

I removed the Sta-Bo bushings. I like the theory, but the execution didn't work out as well as I had hoped. I'm riding without any extra gadgetry for the rear end until it is proven necessary.

aaaha.  thanks.  spyder