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[icy]

I have a 06 SE103 and have been trying to figure out what all needs to be done to convert it to a 110 or better yet a 113. also need an idea of cost to do this. i have exactly 2 months from today to do something with it. as it sits it needs cam bearing work. figured as long as im wrenching on it i may as well turn up the horses a bit if possible for a reasonable price.

[Ghost__Rider]

I have never done one, but if memory serves me correct the case has to be cut for the larger jugs. SOmeone else might chime in here if I'm wrong. I think 107 is as large as the case will accept.

[timo482]

its a many sided question you are asking.

is the damage such that the case has to be split?

what is the cost to just fix it?

how hard do you want to lean on it?

do you want it to last for twenty years? or ruin tires weekly?

to

[icy]

I guess the extent of the damage is yet to be determined. It still has stock tensioners that will be replaced with the hyd kit at the least. I will be doing the work myself as much as possible. I want something with more power but i am not willing to rebuild every time i turn around. Money IS a concern here but i figure as long as its gonna come apart now is the time to do upgrades. I guess i need to get those cams out to know for sure what the damage is and exactly how far i need to go.

[INDEPENDENT_1]

Your 103 has a 4-3/8" stroke. Without changing stroke, by machining the cases, you could go to a 4-1/8" piston and be at 117" but I would suggest other work with that setup that would approach the cost of getting an S&S 124 that already has Timken bearing, heads, gear drive cams, roller rockers, much higher volume oil pump, premium lifters, adjustable pushrods, forged pistons, much stronger flywheels... you get the point. Plus yoU will have a warranty and with a proper tune a much cooler running motor and make plenty of power without pushing the envelope. Then you have your motor you have now to part out or sell complete to help offset cost.

Other than that, without splitting the cases, your best bet would probably be a top end rebuild which could net you 107 cubic inches. If you go that route, you could send your heads down to John Sachs for work. He can pick the flow up on those heads quite a bit for not a lot of money and throw in some cams, a larger throttle body, exhaust and you'd see some nice improvements over the stock configuration if that's what you've been running. Those motors are over cammed, low on compression and the throttle body's are not too spectacular in my opinion. The upside is that leaves a lot of room for improvement. They do have decent flywheels in them compared to late model 4-3/8" stroke flywheels and the heads have good potential.

[icy]

I'm curious what that new 124 costs with the larger tb and ignition? As in total cost for replacement if I do the work myself? Anyone know?

[prodrag1320]

go 124"

[HD Street Performance]

With the SE103 I would use the 124" S&S Hot Setup kit less heads and rework your heads. Those SE heads can work very well when ported. With a Timken installed and the unneeded items from the kit removed the cost may surprise you as it is not that bad.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Retail prices

6300 engine
clutch 350-550
t/b 399
high flow injectors 250
tuner 400

There is a approx price   , when buying SUPPORT you local indy for the build.. Other wise you may have a shop be less than happy to help in a warranty issue..  Just saying.. 

[HD Street Performance]

And by doing a Hot Setup 124", which incidentally is considerably less cost than a crate motor, you retain your motor numbers and no need to worry about drilling cases for oil return, which if I am not mistaken voids the S&S warranty technically.

[FlaHeatWave]

Your 103 has a 4-3/8" stroke. Without changing stroke, by machining the cases, you could go to a 4-1/8" piston and be at 117" but I would suggest other work with that setup that would approach the cost of getting an S&S 124 that already has Timken bearing, heads, gear drive cams, roller rockers, much higher volume oil pump, premium lifters, adjustable pushrods, forged pistons, much stronger flywheels... you get the point. Plus yoU will have a warranty and with a proper tune a much cooler running motor and make plenty of power without pushing the envelope. Then you have your motor you have now to part out or sell complete to help offset cost.

Other than that, without splitting the cases, your best bet would probably be a top end rebuild which could net you 107 cubic inches. If you go that route, you could send your heads down to John Sachs for work. He can pick the flow up on those heads quite a bit for not a lot of money and throw in some cams, a larger throttle body, exhaust and you'd see some nice improvements over the stock configuration if that's what you've been running. Those motors are over cammed, low on compression and the throttle body's are not too spectacular in my opinion. The upside is that leaves a lot of room for improvement. They do have decent flywheels in them compared to late model 4-3/8" stroke flywheels and the heads have good potential.

IMHO this is one of the best / most helpful / most detailed, replies I have ever read to this type of question.

Beware of the "may as well, while we're in there" mentality. It can add up $$$$ real quick!

As for doing the work yourself (even installing the S&S 124 Crate or Hot Setup) It is my understanding that will void any kind of warranty. S&S wants their stuff to be installed by Authorized S&S Dealers for any kind of warranty to be in effect.(you can't blame them).

With the 124 Crate (installed by a S&S Dealer) any warranty work can be done by any S&S Dealer. 

Should you choose to do the work yourself, keep in mind that the special tools required can exceed the cost of labor. Also 0 warranty.

My 2cents; post again when you get into the motor and determine the extent of the "damage", your budget, and above all be honest (to yourself) about how you use your bike.

If bottom end work is required, I would look hard at the 124 Crate, if not I would look hard at one of the 107 kits (as described here) with no more than 10.5-1 compression.

Also there are some of the best Builders in the country posting here (there are some others that don't post here) that were willing to let me pick their brains with a phone call. They were an invaluable asset to me when I decided to Build the '09 SERG!

My Build Thread: http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=91650.0   somewhat long, but I learned tons...
 Peace Out, 'Gotta Ride...

[icy]

First of all, I'd love to have that 124..   Now..  Since its too cold out in the garage to tear into the beast, I'm stuck wondering how many times the cases dont have to be removed for a cam bearing failure? Its going to be a few weeks yet till i can get at her and I'm just wondering if I'm just spinning my wheels thinking that i wont have to split the cases. Because if i do, its awful hard not to justify the 124 kit.  we ride mostly 2 up weather it be 10 miles or 1000 and I'm not exactly a little guy. The only problem is getting the other half to go along with the motor. She would be just as happy with the 80 in motor in my 90 eg classic. Me i gotta at least keep with my buddies who both have SE 113 motors.... there aren't any burnouts, but the throttle will be cranked from time to time. The 103 would get slowly left behind regularly... Can anyone tell me what the stock hp was in that motor? Its got true duels and rineharts on it as it sits now.

[INDEPENDENT_1]

How many miles are on it? If it's wracked up some miles, its a good idea to replace the bottom end bearings anyhow and truly enough, it's not that much more effort to split the cases after the top end has been pulled. Pull primary and a few more bolts after the top end and the cases are ready to split. If metal has circulated through the engine, the rod bearings and crank bearings should be inspected before ruining new expensive parts by trying to cut corners on trying to avoid the extra labor. You need to see what's been going on and the extent of the damage before making a decision in my opinion. No other way around it as far as I'm concerned.

[icy]

shes a little over 30k. supposed to have had tensioners done before i bought it, but they are still stock type so who knows.For some reason i was thinking i wouldnt have to pull the whole motor but more and more its looking like the better option.... worst part is i bought it in april of last year....   

[INDEPENDENT_1]

30k is probably what a lot would rightfully consider premature but I have a cam plate I show people that have never seen the tensioners pulled from a bike with 32k on it and the inner shoe is completely gone. It's metal to metal. Not saying yours is. Again, I'd suggest checking it out before going much further. It coulc be someone just stuck a banana in your tailpipe!