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CVO Technical => Drive Train => Topic started by: RayG on November 01, 2016, 11:30:09 AM
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I'm probably going to replace my primary chain tensioner over the winter and was wondering if there was any major benefit to using the SE manual version vs. the regular auto chain model. I have 90,000 miles on the bike and even with the S&S 124 with the 640 cams I have never had an issue. I see where a few guys have welded the tensioners. I understand why they do it, I just have never had any issue using the regular one. I currently have the Baker compensator but I plan to return to the OEM and use the Compensaver for improved lubrication. I have the saver on the bench waiting until I open the primary. Which tensioner should I get?
RayG
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Had the SE in for about 2 days, made to much noise... Like them gear drive timer in a SB Chevy. Hundred bucks and I will ship it to ya if you want it... Same as new condition make it $75 shipped and it's yours
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After over 50,000 miles on the '09, with no issues or related issues I'm staying with the stock one.
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Stick with the automatic tensioner. The latest version seems to be working fine, unlike the early versions. Every review I've read on the SE manual tensioner has mentioned noise issues, and without an access cover in the primary cover like the old bikes, you would have to remove the outer every time you wanted to check / adjust the chain.
JMHO - Jerry
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Stick with the automatic tensioner. The latest version seems to be working fine, unlike the early versions. Every review I've read on the SE manual tensioner has mentioned noise issues, and without an access cover in the primary cover like the old bikes, you would have to remove the outer every time you wanted to check / adjust the chain.
JMHO - Jerry
X-2 Jerry, My HD Tech said the same..way to friggin noisy...stock one works just fine...
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I can always count on you guys for a quick and thorough answer. I'll stay with the automatic tensioner.
Thanks Guys
Ray G
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I can always count on you guys for a quick and thorough answer. I'll stay with the automatic tensioner.
Thanks Guys
Ray G
Was noticing a little noise in mine. When I put my Compensaver in , I found the chain had about 3/4 " play in it. Just put a screwdriver on the back of the tensioner, it popped up one click then 1/4" of play all good now, nice and quiet. They say 1/4" play at the top when it cold and when you raise the chain with your finger , you'll see the shoe start to compress.
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Stick with the automatic tensioner. The latest version seems to be working fine, unlike the early versions. Every review I've read on the SE manual tensioner has mentioned noise issues, and without an access cover in the primary cover like the old bikes, you would have to remove the outer every time you wanted to check / adjust the chain.
JMHO - Jerry
Which HD one is the newer version? Probably not the one that came in my 2009?
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Which HD one is the newer version? Probably not the one that came in my 2009?
I don't remember, thinking the '09 version had the older wider teeth on it, changed a buddy's out to an extra one I had of my '11 New version has narrower adjusting teeth so it won't over adjust overtighen. Was thinking the new part # has a " B"
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I don't remember, thinking the '09 version had the older wider teeth on it, changed a buddy's out to an extra one I had of my '11 New version has narrower adjusting teeth so it won't over adjust overtighen. Was thinking the new part # has a " B"
I need to confirm. If the 09 version is different in this respect that maybe why mine always felt banjo string tight why I changed to the Hayden unit and have been happy with that in my 07.
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I need to confirm. If the 09 version is different in this respect that maybe why mine always felt banjo string tight why I changed to the Hayden unit and have been happy with that in my 07.
That's why it gets tight, New one with the finer teeth takes care of that. You get a Much more gradual adjustment.without over tightening. Most of the good builders on here Steve @ GMR, Kirby, Steve @ Fullsac to mention a few say use the stock tensioner . Think a new one is like $108 retail. My '16 has about 1/4 " play,
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Thanks, makes sense then.
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Thanks, makes sense then.
Good deal, That new HD tensioner is a hell of lot quieter than the Hayden. Pulled my Hayden out of the old "11 ,it's in the box. Just set it up COLD with about 3/16"-1/4" play at the top. When you push up on the chain after teh play is gone you see the tensioner shoe will start to compress and you are good. Think there is another 3/4" of "compression" of the shoe built in to the unit.
You can always do a quick and easy check after installation. Just pull the derby cover off, shine a light on there slide a long thin screwdriver in, and push up on the chain. You'll know...
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I have heard some people complain of noise from the Hayden but mine is quiet. I have had one on my old WG Evo for years. Maybe just the differences from my 07 to the newer bikes. I assume that would require a new chain and new comp assembly. I wonder if that would work on my 07. I am still running the first revision of the comp assembly on mine. So far it has held up with the 131 motor. Who knows now that I said that it may give up soon I hope not.
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I have had 3 bikes that I installed the Hayden tensioners and I have not had any issues with noise or function with either Hayden.
I only have about 5,000 miles each on two bikes and 1,000 miles on the third, but the Hayden has worked excellent.
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I changed the fluids on my 2009 FLHX Street Glide today and I removed the primary cover to check on my Hayden tensioner. I put it on last year and it has 5,000+ miles on it and it looks just like when I put it in last year. The chain and the Hayden spec clearance has not changed over the last year and there is no noises coming from the primary area.
I use Red Line oils in all 3 holes and the 3 magnetic drain plugs look excellent.
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Well here is my story to chew on. I ride approximately 20k miles a year. I have gone through several compensators throughout the years. My 2011 RG has just over 111,000 miles.
After the first compensator around 35k I replaced with the new Harley replacement and a Hayden tensioner. The newer compensator are better, the Hayden tension works great. But I had one significant problem with the tensioner. Can't recall the exact mileage but it was less than 10k. I did a inspection and the pad was worn out. Grover so bad that the chain rollers were hitting the pad. Tried another pad with different lube and I had the same issue. Went back to the Harley auto tensioner.
The Harley tensioner is great as long as it doesn't over tighten. Again chew on this. At around 98k I took a trip to the Dragon with some friends. I rode it very aggressive with a lot of hard downshifts. I was determined to see sparks in one of the killboy photos. Mission accomplished. Any way because of my riding style that day. The tensioner overtightened. This got me about 300 more miles before I started loosing clutch pull. Made an adjustment and made it home. Next day same thing lost clutch. This time adjusting was not an option.
Ok so where is the problem you say.
Here is where it started. Because of the overtightened adjuster, the transmission shaft warped. This caused the throw out bearing to slowly be eaten. Hence loosing clutch. So upon inspection found no evidence of a throw out bearing at all. The small shaft the bearing rides on was welded to the push rod. Yes welded. So I had a ground up bearing all in my tranny.
So 4000 dollars later I rebuilt tranny. Added baker door and smooth chit kit. New main shaft and all new bearings. In the primary I went with baker manual adjuster and baker compensator.
10 k later I lost charging. Had a bad stator. Pulled primary cover. Chain adjustment was right where I had set it. New compensator bearing surfaces look terrible all gouged. Definitely looked like a lack of lubrication. That's why I chose baker is because it looked bulletproof with those oil scoops to pick up the oil.
So current config is baker manual tensioner. No more auto tensioner for me. I know I contributed to the problem but the fact it adjusted to tight caused it. I went back to Harley compensator they work decent. Can be noisy and yes there is more noise with the manual adjuster.
I recommend the baker smooth shift and the new door. I probably would have done the DD7 if I had it to do over. Never for me another auto tensioner. I can inspect and adjust if needed. And I recommend staying with the Harley compensator kit replacement.
Love my Harley's and this was a topic I have had a lot of experience with. Among others, of course since I ride a lot
BTW 111,000 miles on motor. Heads have never been remove and I use .5 quarts of oil every 5k
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My '09 is just shy of 48K miles and I'm taking it to a local INDY (with Harley certifications) to resolve some issues before spring. The main reasons are less clutch free play and louder shifting noise when hot. While it's in the shop, the primary will be opened to replace the stock chain tensioner, change oil in the clutch and to rebuild the clutch pack. He recommended Hayden's M6-BT07 chain tensioner to reduce noise and Barnett's Kevlar kit to improve clutch performance. I wasn't aware there was a newer Harley tensioner until reading Cecil's post. Since there's no door in my primary cover, is the newer automatic version from Harley a better option now instead of Hayden ?
I'm also tempted to install Baker's compensator while he's in there. The current compensator (installed under warranty) was Harley's latest version in March, 2014. This one has eliminated the starting issues and backfiring but the crank is rocking back and forth when I shut the engine off now. The dealer said this will cause damage but their explanation wasn't clear. Do you think compensator wear is causing this problem ? Since it's an '09, I would need to replace the rotor which adds up to $600 through Baker.
Any advice would be appreciated...
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I have also used the Hayden, to much chain slap. So went back to the stock tensioner, was trying to make the comps live longer but think I was only making it worse. The latest comp is lasting me about 25k. So I would say use the latest HD auto tensioner
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The Hayden comes with shims to preset the tension. Did you use them and still have problems ? I found this 2012 review of the Hayden tensioner and along with other people, there aren't many complaints. The only downside I see is possible wear from constant up and down movement.
http://www.hdopenroad.com/reviews/a-cure-for-the-harley-primary-auto-adjuster-blues-2/ (http://www.hdopenroad.com/reviews/a-cure-for-the-harley-primary-auto-adjuster-blues-2/)
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The Hayden comes with shims to preset the tension. Did you use them and still have problems ? I found this 2012 review of the Hayden tensioner and along with other people, there aren't many complaints. The only downside I see is possible wear from constant up and down movement.
http://www.hdopenroad.com/reviews/a-cure-for-the-harley-primary-auto-adjuster-blues-2/ (http://www.hdopenroad.com/reviews/a-cure-for-the-harley-primary-auto-adjuster-blues-2/)
chain tension was set to 3/8 inch play, it was in spec for what they recommend. also the shoe was worn bad for the short time it was in, i sent it back to them for inspection they said nothing about the wear just mailed me my money, :nixweiss: i have been thru 4 comps, 3 tensioners, 1 clutch and main shaft bearing in the trans, maybe im just hard on stuff and your results may vary.
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I don't think you're any harder on equipment than the rest of us. Harley's tolerances and technology cause these problems and they've kept their design this way for cost savings and nostalgia (sales). I'm on my third compensator, second transmission bearing and second primary bearing. The compression release was replaced, two of the lifters were shot at 27,000 miles and they ended up destroying the cams. My warranty was done in 2014 so I'm on my own now. For an '09, our bike is in great condition and I refuse to pay $43K for a new one that needs aftermarket pipes and a tuner to make it run right. Several dealers said to hang onto to mine so I'll make due with what I have.
I'm very happy to see the improvements Harley has made since Willy G. retired and hopefully, they'll continue to resolve the issues we have with the older models.
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chain tension was set to 3/8 inch play, it was in spec for what they recommend. also the shoe was worn bad for the short time it was in, i sent it back to them for inspection they said nothing about the wear just mailed me my money, :nixweiss: i have been thru 4 comps, 3 tensioners, 1 clutch and main shaft bearing in the trans, maybe im just hard on stuff and your results may vary.
I agree, the Hayden shoe just doesn't hold up like the Harley shoe. Went through 2 in short mileage. Just wasn't worth it for me
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