Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Unbalanced]

as far as the retrofit is it to cut down the rotor cap vs. selling you the complete kit (rotor and compensator) vs. just the compensator?

[Rooster]

Have they Installed the new modified compensator yet? Any idea what had to be modified?

curious what the mod is other than maybe the little trays for the oil? It would be nice if they finally figured out how to cure the comp assembly woes and if the cure retrofits back to 2007 models.

[RayG]

What kind of primary fluid are you using?  How much fluid are you using?  After going through 6 compensators, most of my failures started when I went to using 1 quart of ATF to be more clutch friendly. I had a Indy ask me to try the Baker in my S&S 124", that was compensator #7.  The Baker is not intended for the high HP of the S&S so it is starting to show the typical signs of failing @ 800 miles.  I will go back to the OEM and install the GMR compensaver that is sitting on my work bench and use the recommended amount of fluid in the primary.  Since I have had two OEM clutch hubs fail sending lots of metal in the primary I tend to change it more often and have been having good luck with the Belray Primary fluid.  When I used the ATF & had a bad clutch hub it had more metal shavings that would fit through the drain plug hole so I now use the Dimple magnets on all my drain plugs & oil filter.  It is 1004 time stronger that the OEM magnet on the drain plug. I don't think they are needed on the Tranny or the Crankcase but the primary always has lots of crap on it.  The compensator needs to be installed properly with clean threads for the main bolt, find a way of getting as much fluid sent to it and make sure it is aligned properly. I have no idea why some go many miles and others need to be changed way to often.  My personal heavy wear items on my 08 SERK are rear tires avg. 4K to 6K miles and compensators.  Nuisance items are heavy vibration from cupped tires and keeping the drive belt tight.  Will solve that this winter.  Other than that I have not had any major issues getting to 90,000 miles.  Lots of parts replaced but have never been left stranded or towed. 

Good Luck finding a resolution

RayG     

[lowflight]

2Harleys it is good that Harley is standing behind this, but after that many they sure should.

Curious if you went to Arrowhead in the West Valley?

[RayG]

I'm real curious if there was an unusual amount of metal in the primary.  In my case when the dealer replaced the first one they found lots of metal but they didn't think of checking the clutch hub until I was back with another failed compensator with very little mileage.  My clutch hub had a number of splines that were stripped off causing a lot of damage to all the moving parts.  If a strong magnet was epoxied in the primary it would have helped. If the hub has stripped splines or has other sign of wear it will release enough metal to get into the compensator, this is where the magnet would help.  Have to agree with the suggestion of using the Compensaver, getting more fluid will help and verifying that it is metal free as well as checking for clean threads should reveal something useful.  I'm figuring that since Harley is doing the repairs they are using Syn 3 or the Formula + for the fluids.  Lubrication & keeping it metal free will help the poorly designed product live a bit longer.

 

[OakleyFreak]

any updates OP?

[2harleys]

Update

The Harley reps were called in for last repair. According to them, somewhere along the line of previously installed compensators, the internal threads on compensator bolt had a build up of locktite  which got pushed to the bottom of the hole. That caused the bolt to bottom out when torqued but leaving compensator loose, which caused it to fail. They cleaned threads with a "bottom" tap and installed new compensator "again". SO FAR SO GOOD. Fingers crossed. It has lasted longer than previous.

[OakleyFreak]

Sweet
Glad to hear it

[Pan1]

Try raising the idle rpm 50-100 and see if the noise goes away.