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[JCZ]

I'm wanting to go to gear drive cams for reliability reasons.  However, I'd also like to capture a little more performance.  I do not want to do any headwork......I want to leave my motor as stock as possible with the exception of the air cleaner, Race Tuner, exhaust and cams.

What cams do you think I should go with and why?  I'd like to get as broad a spectrum of answers here, as possible because I think this issue is around the corner for most here that still have the chain drive cams.

[GC_Super]

This is a great question, and one that has been asked before on other sites. It also interests me cause I have one on order.

[hd-dude]

JC;
Check out this thread:
http://flhrsei.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=cvo_gen;action=display;num=1125534944

I decided for this bike to go with the Andrews 26 G cam set. I can't tell you technically why only that it is on the recommendation of a couple of good wrenches whose opinion I really trust.

[Johnny]

JC - Why are you not considering head work?  The reason I ask is because was talking with service manager at local dealer quizing him on the new 113kit for the SEEG, he felt they could squeez a lot more power out of the 103 then I currently have (100HP) up to 120 to 125 HP.  When asking him what he reccomended it was reworking the heads & cams.  Would very much appreciate your comments on this.

[GC_Super]

120 to 125 hp could only be accomplished with a siginificant increase in compression. Then you have to live with that.  Hard starts, starter problems, need for high octane, comp releases, etc. As long as you're happy with the problems that hi comp motors have, it's OK. ME, I'm trying to go the other way. Instead of a 103 motor with 120 hp, I'd rather have a 120 motor with 110 hp.  Right now I have 106  10.2:1 motor which is not bad, but on trips in hot climates, many times I have thought it would be better to have something a little easier to live with.  Maybe I'm just getting old.  [smiley=nixweiss.gif]

[GC_Super]

HD,  I agree if everything is set up right, the problems won't be so bad. But, higher comp motors aren't always set up right, and are harder to tune and keep tuned. My experience comes from TX, where it's hot, and heat and hi-comp can be difficult. Also, I can start my bike anytime, anywhere, but if someone else tried, they might have problems. Heck, Underground stuff is super hi comp, and like cranking comps of 220 or 230.  That won't work down here.

Later, Robert   [smiley=biggthumpup.gif]

[JCZ]

JC - Why are you not considering head work?

[VANAMAL]

JC- I have the 37g cams in my other bike and it runs nice. not to much cam just right. the easiest way is to decide what manufactuer you will use ( i suggest andrews) and get the specs on their cams. their are only a couple of grinds that make sense and it gets confusing with all the different cams and numbers. ill be switching cams to gear drive soon also. ive got the tools so maybe we get together and do it some weekend.-VAN G

[HUBBARD]

I'm wanting to go to gear drive cams for reliability reasons.

[syclone]

Yeah, 'er 'uh, JCZ'
 

[DCFIREMANN]

This has turned out to be a very good thread. You almost have to deck the heads of the factory 103 to get any kind of performance out of these motors. A compression ratio of 10.0 to 1 is what you want to look for in a fuelie. The higher cylinder pressures will cause you to have to throw more fuel to the motor and with the harley fuel injection it just won't give you the performance or the numbers that you would be looking for and the motor will run much hotter. The best bet on a stock 103 would be to pull the heads and have them decked, have the spring height set for 650 lift and do a performance valve job with light weight performance valves. This can be done at a very resonable cost. Now you are set up for a high lift cam with a lower duration that will give you some stump pulling torque numbers. You will also have a larger variety of cams to choose from. While you are changing the cams put in a aftermarket high volume oil pump and a set of performance lifters with new adjustable push rods. Then it will be off to the DYNO

Now you will have some very reliable horse power with out the cost of a major rebuild, the motor will still retain its stock look and you will still have the power to pass good ole HUBBARD driving down the interstate in his mini van!!!!!! [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[shovelhead71]

DC is correct and I do not want to take anything away from this outlook on building a GREAT powerplant - may I have his permission to add 1 small step if you please !

the combustion chamber - whoever is doing this work - have them look at the combustion chamber - on full 103 pro heads make sure this area is all dimensional - meaning all the area is the identical depth - (has nothing to do with squash) not all heads are the same and all dies run many an incorrect head dimension - the (explosion) area needs attention if purchasing over the counter so to speak - many a horse power lost in this area if your spending the extra dollar to seek out sreaming neck braking horse power
then go for the squash (don;t forget to index those plugs)
DC is a fine person to listen to so do not very on advise - ask 50 technicians and you will get 50 different answers - so listen to a pro
there endeth this lesson

[Twolanerider]

This has turned out to be a very good thread. You almost have to deck the heads of the factory 103  

Dawg, yours and Shovel's post are great but beg the next question.  Not everyone has a known good local machinist or has experience working with one.  So who are good machinists to send pieces to who will (just as importantly) follow the instructions they're given?

[hd-dude]

I'm wanting to go to gear drive cams for reliability reasons.

[GC_Super]

This has been an interesting thread. I guess we all want to improve our bikes, but with as little disruption as possible. If you look at the original post, and try to figure out a cam swap only, our options are limited to those baby, bolt in cams that will work at a compression ratio of 9.0:1.  Andrews 21, 26, S&S 510 or something close should achieve the stated goals of changing to gear drive, and would improve performance in that it would move the torque curve down and come on a little faster, which would help in the mountains and in passing situations.  Seems that cam opinions are like you know what, cause everybody has them.  LOL Considering that I never ridden one of the CVO 103's, I'm talking out of my rear end also, but I've read many posts concerning them on other sites and the most often complaint is the soft bottom end, or people compare them to other motors that were built with more performance in mind and without the EPA looking over their shoulder.   [smiley=laugh.gif]

I've seen posts where 26,s and the 510 were installed, are there dyno's available for them?

Later, Robert