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[DavidB]

Yeah, 'er 'uh, Twolane,
 

[OTIS]

And the text in the lower-left reads . . .

The man on the v rod Trip Nobles also runs Tilleys parts department.

                                  OTIS  

[Unbalanced]

When you guys decide to choose what cam's you want make sure you have a clear idea of what your asking for    All around, low end tq, high end speed.  From here you have to first decide whats acceptable numbers for what you want and what your willing to spend on this ...  


Questions   What is to much compression for you or your area you leave in or like to ride with ?  For some 11.5 to 1 is perfectly acceptable for others 10.0 to 1 with no compression releases is what they want others want 10.5 to 1 with compression releases.  

I would recommend a few things.

1.   Decide what compression you want to be at (recommend 10.0 to 1 as a hard limit unless your looking and dont mind compression releases.

2.   These bikes are heavy to get off the line and going keep this in mind if you like to run light to light.   If you want to run wide open then look to a cam that does this.

3.   Like DC said Reed Valve or Fueling oil pump just not both if you go reed valve use the Zippers Schim with it your already going to be in there putting in the cam why not improve upon what you have for the extra 20 minutes its going to take.

4.  The Hemi heads we have can be worked with to give good numbers.   The 10.5 forged pistons you just have them decked add a bit of squish and shaping to the chamber add a bit of lift to the valves go no higher then 1.91 on the intake and keep the exhaust at 1.65 and turn the heads into a high velocity flow and use the cometic .030 for some extra compression vs stock gasket which runs from .040 to .060 give or take.  

Then you deck the pistons to reduce the compression and use a stock head gasket vs cometic gasket so you can keep the compression lower if your looking for 10 to 1 or under.   Then you should look to a cam like the Andrews 55g (9.8 to 10.2) this is a fast closing intake and should give you the power to get off the line and run up to 6000 rpm.   Then make sure your head guy puts in springs where you wont have to clearance the rocker boxes.   Another cam to look at is the 570 or 585 from S&S (remember andrews makes these cams for S&S to their specs and then you also have Woods 6g or 6gh (runs like the 211 from Harley) You can also look at Zippers cams also very good.

You will not need a high speed starter just your stock one with a harley high crank battery.  

Wes at Cycle Rama  727-546-0889
Al Redman (Redman Racing) Used to be behind Dick Farmers Harley 352-771-0404
Freedom Cycles 775-358-3500
Zippers  410-579-2828
Tilley's Phone# is 704-872-3883
Hal's Harley Davidson (Rob Schopf) 262-860-0260  New Berlin, Wi
Small Block Charlie 480-921-1446  


Provided you go in with what you want and a dollar amount that your willing to spend from there any of these guys / shops should be able to build what want / modify it to meet expectation just remember to be very specific about your wishes and concerns.

[GC_Super]

Wow, this thread went form a simple cam swap to full blown performance mods.  [smiley=laugh.gif]    It's always fun to spend someone elses money.   [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[DCFIREMANN]

UNBALANCED very good post. I agree with most of what you just posted. The only difference I would do would be to use a cam with a lot of lift and not touch the ports(except clean them up). This will keep the price down for these guys who only wanted to do a cam swap and install gear drives. I think if someone does a minimal amount of head work to accommodate the new cams they will be more than happy (at least for a while). Well I guess after they get use to the extra power they will want more.

This has turned out to be a very good thread. Thanks guys GC you are right it is always a lot of fun when it is not your money.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[Unbalanced]

I tried to keep the Heads as a separate offering since the idea behind the Cam swap was what cam do I choose.   I added the info for those that were already in to deep and wanted the information.

I dunno personally I want to stay under 10.0 for all around use / reliability head work has just always been the finishing touch.    I mean whats 500 - 1000 more when you already have the heads off to replace the pistons.    

All depends where you wanna end up and what your gonna spend to get there.

[DavidB]

Hal`s Hd is using 10.5 pistons there having someone make. My mech dropped in a set and replaced the valves with Kible white highflow valves and unshrouded them. The head gaskets are cometic .030 . We left the stock cams. The cranking presure is now 182 instead of the stock 150 lbs. Granted its no dragstrip bike but its yet to be passed on the street.  The ping is now gone because of the thight squish band on the raised pistons. I love the forth gear torque the bike now has on mountain roads.
     
IM gonna try and get a dyno sheet on it on the 17`th of this month at the dealership. There doing them free on that day.

Dave

[110tHunDer]

Hal`s Hd is using 10.5 pistons there having someone make. My mech dropped in a set and replaced the valves with Kible white highflow valves and unshrouded them. The head gaskets are cometic .030 . We left the stock cams. The cranking presure is now 182 instead of the stock 150 lbs. Granted its no dragstrip bike but its yet to be passed on the street.

[the O`Fender]

If you really wanna go fast have your fratchit housing polished and blue printed, then have your fin-again pin triple cut and reseated, if that doesn't get your scooter doin' a 7 second quarter nothin will then you should try a jap sport bike!!!! they make em go 200mph outta the crate. just last weekend I was ridin' the interstate at about 115-120 thought I was going fast when this sport bike went by me like I was parked, and it was only a measely1200cc kawasaki (170hp) the point is this thread started as JC wanting a small performance boost while improving upon the chain driven cams and before you know it all the sites "DRAG RACE EXPERTS" are buildin' a fuel motor for him. go figure [smiley=oops.gif]
gotta love this place!!! [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

[Unbalanced]

O'Fender,

/shrug I never knew too much information was bad.   I think I answered his questions and went a bit further to allow him choices and others choices of questions they might not know to ask.    Sorry this offended you it was not my intention to force you to read some long winded post that I felt helped him choose a cam as well as make some other decisions while he was in there like addding a reed valve or a shim to get better oil flow in the engine.   /bad me ....   /flog away

[DCFIREMANN]

O'Fender,

/shrug I never knew too much information was bad.

[naitram]

as soon as a thread goes for performance its bound to go further than the original question

[JCZ]

as soon as a thread goes for performance its bound to go further than the original question

Your right so let me restate my question in other words.........I'm not interested in more performance (been there and done that too many times)......I'm only interested in going to gear drive cams for the reliability (to replace the issue with the cam chain shoes that's common to the twin cam motors) and that's it.  

So keeping in mind that more performance is not the goal, but that more reliability is.....what cam would you guys suggest on a stock motor (meaning no head work or piston change or compression change of any sort) and why would you suggest what you're suggesting?? [smiley=nixweiss.gif]

I want to thank those that have addressed my question and thank those that will.

[HUBBARD]

Hey Hubbard,
 

[Unbalanced]

Staying with the harley line of cams the 251 hands down is the cam to go with.   It pulls good from start to finish is reliable and works well with the 103 motor.   I have owned it and ran it and prefer it to the 203, 204, 211.  

Going with gear drive cam the Andrews 26a or the 37b both give good low down torque and runs just like the 251 without the tensioners.  If your riding 2 up then the 26a if your looking for a bit of a wider torque curve then the 37b.  

If you like the harley 211 cam then look towards the Woods 6gh cam it runs well from 3500 to about 5500.   Pulls really well once at 3500 rpm.

Gear Drives will relieve the need for tensioners, but cost an additional 300 bucks for gear drives.  285 for cam there abouts and 305 for gear drives.

But like i said if I were changing the cam no matter what my intentions I would still put in a reed valve and a zippers schim.  You're already in there why wouldn't you make this change it only costs you for the parts and 20 more minutes of labor.

my 2 cents again does that make it 4 cents worth now?