Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Fatboy]

* the factory 103 motor has some problems when you want to make a cam change.

*the heads are a weak point as is the cam drive system in that motor. This is not a fault of the Motor Company but of EPA to meet noise and emmission standards.

***there is not really a bolt in cam that will help the performance of the 103 given the restrictions on valve lift because of set spring height from the factory. With a few MINOR modifactions to your stock 103 heads you find quite a few cams to choose from and relize some gain in H/P and TQ without coming out of your wallet with some big bucks!
_____________________________________________________________________

I think the above statements fully answer and address the "Cam Change Proposition"

[DCFIREMANN]

* the factory 103 motor has some problems when you want to make a cam change.

 *the heads are a weak point as is the cam drive system in that motor. This is not a fault of the Motor Company but of EPA to meet noise and emmission standards.

***there is not really a bolt in cam that will help the performance of the 103 given the restrictions on valve lift because of set spring height from the factory. With a few MINOR modifactions to your stock 103 heads you find quite a few cams to choose from and relize some gain in H/P and TQ without coming out of your wallet with some big bucks!
_____________________________________________________________________

 I think the above statements fully answer and address the "Cam Change Proposition"

[the O`Fender]

JC
Like you I am also looking to replace my cams for reliability issues only, my research thus far is that Redshift makes a gear drive cam 557TC with numbers close to our stock cams however the intake opens later and closes sooner and opens a little higher creating more running compression (more compression = more low end grunt) and it should work fine with our stock springs also it doesn't have overly aggressive ramps for a quiet operation. I believe this cam will offer a modest boost in torque and address the issue of gettin' rid of the chains. Don't forget adjustable pushrods, aluminum is recommended over chromemoly because it is more forgiving in case of valve train failure.  [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

PS I love pushin' buttons!!! [smiley=cool3.gif] [smiley=laugh.gif]

[grc]

JC
Like you I am also looking to replace my cams for reliability issues only, my research thus far is that Redshift makes a gear drive cam 557TC with numbers close to our stock cams however the intake opens later and closes sooner and opens a little higher creating more running compression (more compression = more low end grunt) and it should work fine with our stock springs also it doesn't have overly aggressive ramps for a quiet operation. I believe this cam will offer a modest boost in torque and address the issue of gettin' rid of the chains. Don't forget adjustable pushrods, aluminum is recommended over chromemoly because it is more forgiving in case of valve train failure.

[the O`Fender]

What is the base circle dimension on those cams?  If it's the same as the stock cams, you could also stick with the original pushrods.  Less weight and more reliable than adjustables.

your kiddin' about the weight thing right?

[grc]

your kiddin' about the weight thing right?

Nope.  One piece steel pushrod weighs less than a two piece steel pushrod with threads and a jam nut.  If you go with the aluminum adjustable, then it might be slightly lighter.  Some (most?) of the adjustables on the market are larger in diameter, which means more material

I'll take a one piece any day, even if it means pulling the rocker covers.  The whole idea at the start of this thread was reliability, and the one piece wins hands down.

Jerry

[DCFIREMANN]

When looking for pushrods look for strength not weight. Also make sure you change your lifters and while you are into the cam plate OIL PUMP it is cheap insurance!!!!!! Yes you are looking at a good set of cams, but what is the spring height set up for in the screamin eagle 103 standard heads?

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[the O`Fender]

Ok I get it, if you bend a valve lets say (not uncommon in air cooled motors) or one gets stuck, that steel pushrod has no place to go but down through my lifter and potentially into my cam lobe to cause a whole lot of costly damage, or my aluminum pushrod gets mashed and I have to replace it. I'll take the latter, but thats just a personal preference having had it happen weeks after purchasing a used scooter from someone who liked chromemoly over aluminum. [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

[DCFIREMANN]

Ok I get it, if you bend a valve lets say (not uncommon in air cooled motors) or one gets stuck, that steel pushrod has no place to go but down through my lifter and potentially into my cam lobe to cause a whole lot of costly damage, or my aluminum pushrod gets mashed and I have to replace it. I'll take the latter, but thats just a personal preference having had it happen weeks after purchasing a used scooter from someone who liked chromemoly over aluminum. [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

Well if you would takes some advice from someone who now I am sure knows way less than you and have the heads set up right in the first place you won't have that problem. Or even better yet don't bother to change the cams. So before you put the Zippers 557 in maybe you should check and see what your stock spring height is set up for. Then maybe you will not have COIL BIND or a VALVE STICKING! Oh but wait you don't know how to R & R the heads and don't want to pay someone to do the job right in the first place!

Now in reality the lifter has a lot more play even if the valve hit the piston. Which by the way will not happen with your stock heads and pistons and your less than 9.0 compression ratio at .557 lift. Now if you ask any engine builder they will tell you to use the stronger of the two. Light weight was mentioned at first like someone thought you would gain any horsepower. Which by the way again YOU WON'T

Let me guess you must be an engineer???

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[the O`Fender]

Well if you would takes some advice from someone who now I am sure knows way less than you and have the heads set up right in the first place you won't have that problem. Or even better yet don't bother to change the cams. So before you put the Zippers 557 in maybe you should check and see what your stock spring height is set up for. Then maybe you will not have COIL BIND or a VALVE STICKING! Oh but wait you don't know how to R & R the heads and don't want to pay someone to do the job right in the first place!

Now in reality the lifter has a lot more play even if the valve hit the piston. Which by the way will not happen with your stock heads and pistons and your less than 9.0 compression ratio at .557 lift. Now if you ask any engine builder they will tell you to use the stronger of the two. Light weight was mentioned at first like someone thought you would gain any horsepower. Which by the way again YOU WON'T

Let me guess you must be an engineer???

Be Safe

THE DAWG

Nope not an engineer actually I don't even like riding on trains, and let me guess as a child you liked lighting fires right?
Oh yeah zippers may own the red shift technology but they did not develop it.
my stock 103 heads are setup for .575 lift and that doesn't mean that what ever cam I have installed I wouldn't clearance check everything (been their done that)
and to the contradict your thoughts not EVERY engine builder agrees with the stronger is better in the pushrod areana!!!
So let me understand something, you're telling me that if someone like zippers sets up my heads their is 0 (zero) chance of valve failure. Does somebody other than you warranty these?
I'll buy those heads everytime, how much? [smiley=brood.gif]
If someone can build it I'll break it [smiley=oops.gif]

[DCFIREMANN]

Nope not an engineer actually I don't even like riding on trains, and let me guess as a child you liked lighting fires right?
Oh yeah zippers may own the red shift technology but they did not develop it.
my stock 103 heads are setup for .575 lift and that doesn't mean that what ever cam I have installed I wouldn't clearance check everything (been their done that)
and to the contradict your thoughts not EVERY engine builder agrees with the stronger is better in the pushrod areana!!!
So let me understand something, you're telling me that if someone like zippers sets up my heads their is 0 (zero) chance of valve failure. Does somebody other than you warranty these?
I'll buy those heads everytime, how much? [smiley=brood.gif]
If someone can build it I'll break it [smiley=oops.gif]

Well actually O Fender I really liked trains when I was young and I really don't know where the fire thing came in! I have not had a set of heads set up by Zippers in quite a few years. They do good work I just use a few others. I did like the statement about breaking it at least we have something in common. So I guess we can agree to disagree on this subject. As far as the strength of the pushrods I do choose to go stronger as with the guys that do most of my machine work. The cams I usually run will cause the aluminum to flex. Also I am not so sure the stock 103 heads are set up for .575 lift. I don't trust the MOCO. So if you are going to check all clearences you must clay the piston so the heads will have to be removed. So why not spend a few hundred dollars and have the heads worked over. I know I know you don't like trains!!!!!!


Be Safe

THE DAWG

[sefatboyscott]

Wow, I wish I had the type of cash to add all that to my already 30 grand bike and also be able to do all my own repairs and toss out my extended warranty which I am sure would not be worth the paper its on if I did half these mods!

I figure if I want to go that fast I could have saved myself about 15 grand and just baught a Hyabusa 1300 Gixxer, like someone mentioned 200mph and 3.2 0-60 out of the crate! Then I could have taken that 10 grand and put it in the bike and be so far from street legal that I wouldn't be able to start it up without losing my drivers license, but if by chance that doesn't happen I will still have the 5 grand to leave something for my decendants when I kill myself on the friggin thing!

Of course I like to go fast like the next guy and I like having the HP of my screaming eagle vs the 88 incher, and for me it's plenty. I wouldn't mind adding a new gear driven cam just to give it more of a potatoe thump sound and a bit more reliability over the stock cams.but hell its an 05 and with my extended warranty , reliability is not an issue to me for 6 years, if it breaks they fix it..I don't have a problem with that!

The way people drive around my neck of the woods, even the speed limit can be hairy on two wheels!WE won't even get into road conditions as I have been airborne more than once doing a reasonable amount over the speed limit ( ya know 80 in a 55 is still subject to loss of license ) [smiley=zwtf.gif]