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[porthole]

The night started out good and ended with an "oh chit" and that sinking feeling you get in your gut.

Put a bid (actually a buy it now) on Monday and it was here on Tuesday.

[porthole]

Kit includes just about everything you need to complete the job (except a new case).

Bearing & seal, new sprocket, chain shoe, gaskets etc

[porthole]

Gear Set, pillow block, forks, fork rod and new chain

[porthole]

.

[porthole]

In case you had any doubts as to whether Redline will cling to the gears. ............

The last time I road my bike was near the end of October. Almost halfway through March now and the gears are covered with oil yet.

[porthole]

.

[porthole]

Georges Garage tool to remove the trap door and gear set as an assembly.

2 shorter screws go here into the trapdoor

[porthole]

Longer screws go on the ends and when turned in they apply pressure to the trans case (actually a pin in the case).

This "walks" the trap door and gears out.

On my bike I had a roll pin in the front of the case, so all the tool did there was try and drive into the roll pin and bugger up the screw a bit.

[porthole]

Gear Set on it's way out

screw trying to "push" against he roll pin (right side).

[porthole]

After the gear set is out you are left with the main drive gear and bearing in the case

[porthole]

.

[porthole]

Georges Garage Main Drive Gear & bearing Installer and remover.

The tool came with the thumb screws, but were too hard to work with. Found a couple of stainless bolts laying around

[porthole]

Left side with the remover on the drive gear

[porthole]

"nice" bearing and ready to remove

[porthole]

Set and ready to go

[porthole]

Now for the oh chit.

I was just getting ready to back off the puller - remover when something let go.
Might have been the lower screw holding the plate or just the case.

Either way, the main drive gear bearing moved about 1/8" on the gear before the case let go

[porthole]

This thing just let go with a loud bang

[porthole]

this just plain sucks

[porthole]

Did I mention this sucks 

[porthole]

Main drive gear - case land - bearing - quad seal - pulley spacer (seal rides on this)

[porthole]

Doesn't really show here, but the bearing moved about 1/8" before popping out of the case.

I had no problem pushing the bearing back on.

Have no idea why this happened.

[porthole]

The plate from the drive gear tool.

So it could have been the threads letting go, side loading the tool and bearing or who knows.

That's it - I'm done - gonna go sit in the corner and 

[hd-dude]

OUCH! Really sorry to see this happen   That really sucks Duane, while I have not had this happen to me I have heard of it happening before. I always remove the seal, quad ring and pully spacer before pulling the gear. Also heating the bearing with a torch helps them break free easier. It is possible that the seal and spacer bound up on the gear on the way out.

[porthole]

OUCH! Really sorry to see this happen   That really sucks Duane, while I have not had this happen to me I have heard of it happening before. I always remove the seal, quad ring and pulley spacer before pulling the gear. Also heating the bearing with a torch helps them break free easier. It is possible that the seal and spacer bound up on the gear on the way out.

I don't know - the quad ring and pulley spacers were loose on the shaft, no binding, and I didn't think the seal would make a difference 

I'm kind of thinking that the bottom bolt pulling out side loaded the bearing and caused this. I didn't realize that there was so much pressure that it bent the plate.

Any time I had gears - bearings like this in the automotive world, the tool we used dropped down around the gear and would have pressed right against the case.

In retrospect, this seems like a bad idea for removing this bearing, that may be "stuck".

[hd-dude]

I don't know - the quad ring and pulley spacers were loose on the shaft, no binding, and I didn't think the seal would make a difference 

I'm kind of thinking that the bottom bolt pulling out side loaded the bearing and caused this. I didn't realize that there was so much pressure that it bent the plate.

Any time I had gears - bearings like this in the automotive world, the tool we used dropped down around the gear and would have pressed right against the case.

In retrospect, this seems like a bad idea for removing this bearing, that may be "stuck".

No way to tell what bound up, could be the gear in the bearing, some rust or corrosion got caught up on its way through, that is why it moved some first. The case is a poor design, not much support there at all for pulling the gear against. For what its worth my puller is bent as well........

[Gettinold]

That sux Duane....   I guess Baker will be taking that gear set back ontrade for a complete trans...... w/ a real case. 

[Talon]

To bad Duane, so the threads in the case let go or the tool? Man really bent that bar!

Craig

[Boatman]

I woke up in the middle of the night thinking the space shuttle made a surprise launch and here it was a fellow forum friend in his garage in New Jersey saying "oh chit"..   
 
Duane, your  a better person than me as I wouldn't even have a camera left to post pictures after what happened to you.

Wasn't till I looked at the removed main drive gear and bearings that I saw the part of the transmission housing that pulled loose (pop) with what you was wanting to remove.

Too good a guy for that to happen.  Must have happened for a reason.  May be better off with a new tranny in the long run.  I don't know how much harder it is to remove the tranny but you were replaceing the swing arm bearings/bushings anyway?

Does the belt need replaced at 35K?   I hear they last twice that long?  May be good to do now?

It's not funny now, but I hope we can all share a laugh at one of the CVO get togethers.

Hang in there, Bob 

[porthole]

That sux Duane....   I guess Baker will be taking that gear set back ontrade for a complete trans...... w/ a real case. 

Don't think they offer a complete FL trans  Can't find one on their site.
Trading in won't be an option. Trade to Baker and you'll be working off of list price. Returning and trying to buy new would cost a 20% restock.
I'll just order a new case and go from there.

To bad Duane, so the threads in the case let go or the tool? Man really bent that bar!

What came first the chicken or the egg?
Either the case finally let go and the resulting forces of the gear/bearing slamming into the plate knocked the bolt out (with the threads still wrapped around the bolt) or the threads let go - side loaded the bearing and all hell broke loose. It happened very fast and the bolt shot across the garage.

I've already received messages that say this is not common but it does happen. And apparently I'm not the only one with a plate bent like that.
In retrospect, I think it is a bad idea pulling the gear like that.

I have done a lot of engine - trans- axle work in the past (my previous automotive career) and the tools would have been designed different for something like this.
I'm going to pass my thoughts on to George's Garage and see what he thinks.

Duane, your  a better person than me as I wouldn't even have a camera left to post pictures after what happened to you.

My camera costs more then the gear set. Besides, I think your to mellow to get that mad 

Must have happened for a reason.  May be better off with a new tranny in the long run.  I don't know how much harder it is to remove the tranny but you were replacing the swing arm bearings/bushings anyway?

Well - I did order the bearings bushings for the swing arm (stock), so I think once the swing arm is out I only have four more bolts, two oil hoses (plus the Ride Str-8) to remove. Just have to figure out how to hang the engine with it sitting on a floor jack and the rear wheel already off.

Does the belt need replaced at 35K?   I hear they last twice that long? 

May be good to do now?

Belt looks good, I would think at least 50K or so. Your a funny guy wanting me to buy even more parts 

It's not funny now, but I hope we can all share a laugh at one of the CVO get together.

No, not funny, but I am getting a chuckle thinking about it, not my trans, but you having a 6 speed 

[Boatman]

No, not funny, but I am getting a chuckle thinking about it, not my trans, but you having a 6 speed 

You're a real comedian Duane.  Most of you guys don't even think I use the 5th I have now.   

[DCFIREMANN]

OUCH! Really sorry to see this happen   That really sucks Duane, while I have not had this happen to me I have heard of it happening before. I always remove the seal, quad ring and pully spacer before pulling the gear. Also heating the bearing with a torch helps them break free easier. It is possible that the seal and spacer bound up on the gear on the way out.

You must do this or the case will break!!!!

When we were doing the assembly on "CRASH" a few weeks ago Axil was explaining this to Hogasam and I. The heat would not make much difference you are going to replace the bearing.

Good Luck Porthole!!!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[porthole]

No doubt I would change the way I do this. But - the manual shows the gear being pulled with the quad seal and spacer in place. And those two shouldn't have made the difference.

But from now on (like I'm going to be doing this on a regular basis) I would do it different.

Remove the seal, spacer, and quad.
Fine wire brush the journal, clean it real good,

Start pulling gear, with either oil or never seize on the journal - watch the right side of the tool for it bending ..........................

Once it starts to move if it doesn't continue to move freely  press it back on and re-pull.

That failing just put some pressure on the bearing and hit the inner race with a torch.

BTW, I tried pulling the bearing off the gear with a heavy duty puller (on the bench) and it wouldn't budge. I was able to push the bearing back on with little effort.

[porthole]

You're a real comedian Duane.  Most of you guys don't even think I use the 5th I have now.   

You have a 5th 

[REGGAB]

Good Lord, Duane!  Definite "sit in the corner and weep" moment.  I've never seen that before.  Best to you as you work through this challenge.  I know you'll make it right.

[porthole]

Some of the results of "the Force" not being with me Wednesday night.

When the case let go the gear followed Newton's first law "an object in motion tends to stay in motion"

Those are the gear teeth imprinted in the plate.
That is also the top of the plate. This lends me to believe it is the bottom screw threads that failed allowing the bearing to "side load" the land in the case

[hogasm]

Case on the way

Sorry it is not chrome  it was all I had in silver

[erniezap]

Way to step up Brian! 

[hogasm]

Way to step up Brian! 

Ernie, long story short....

Don sent me his trans tools.......UPS lost them......did not build that trans while at Mikes......was to be a spare....

Site member in trouble.......know he would do the same for me

[Boatman]

Site member in trouble.......know he would do the same for me

 

[Talon]

That's what this site and it's members are all about! Being there for others. Way to step up Brian!

Craig

[porthole]

And just how many people just happen to have a an extra case laying around  :nix weiss:

And  - Brian did not give me the "6 speed business"  :huepfen jump3:


Before he even said hello he said "I have a silver case here" .............................

Lead time from Chicago was 15-20 days

[REGGAB]

And just how many people just happen to have a an extra case laying around  :nix weiss:

And  - Brian did not give me the "6 speed business"  :huepfen jump3:


Before he even said hello he said I have a silver case here .............................

Lead time from Chicago was 15-20 days

You're fortunate, Duane.  I got the "6 speed business."   

[Talon]

And just how many people just happen to have a an extra case laying around  :nix weiss:

And  - Brian did not give me the "6 speed business"  :huepfen jump3:


Before he even said hello he said I have a silver case here .............................

Lead time from Chicago was 15-20 days

Brian, I just broke my 124, got one I can have?   

[porthole]

You're fortunate, Duane.  I got the "6 speed business."   

I have too  Henry, more then once. I think he felt sorry for me crying  in my cheerios and cut me some slack this time.

Plus, now I gave him some good scoop - and he just might change his mind / opinion 

[hogasm]

Brian, I just broke my 124, got one I can have?   

I have a spare

[hogasm]

I have too  Henry, more then once. I think he felt sorry for me crying  in my cheerios and cut me some slack this time.

Plus, now I gave him some good scoop - and he just might change his mind / opinion 

I never said I don't have one.....just don't think they are worth the money

Heck if you want to pizz away $2500,  just send me the money and I will give it to Talon to help rebuild his 124

[REGGAB]

I never said I don't have one.....just don't think they are worth the money

Heck if you want to pizz away $2500,  just send me the money and I will give it to Talon to help rebuild his 124

Love my OD6 and 3.37.   

[hogasm]

Love my OD6 and 3.37.   

Baker has a new 27 tooth comp sprocket for the DD-6     $165

[porthole]

I never said I don't have one.....

I knew you always had it

[porthole]

Baker has a new 27 tooth comp sprocket for the DD-6     $165

See Henry - told you I gave him good scoop - that and the new style bearing to replace the one that he had fail 

[porthole]

So I rummaged through the tool box and tried this puller to remove my main gear bearing. The bearing was a little difficult, but it did pull right off.

[porthole]

So, are these assembled from the factory with red loctite or something?

If that is the case (funny) then I can see where a little judicious bit of heat would help immensely, either a heat gun or torch.

[porthole]

Just a note as to using heat - if you do not do this on a regular basis you should be extremely careful.

My time as a firefighter (11.5 vol + 17.5 career) I have seen many cars destroyed by guys who knew what they were doing.

Sad to see but these included (separate fires in the garage) 65 fastback mustang - 68 427 vette, couple of jeep projects, 63 vette, 2 Chevelles, etc. Several fires involved more then one car, most were contained to the garage. 1 fire had 7-8 antiques - all destroyed.

The picture below is from a fire we had several years ago. Guy working on his car. Leaves to go get something.

His wife goes out to help him clean up - used gasoline to clean the tools IN THE KITCHEN.

Sometimes you need to lock that door between the house and the garage.

[porthole]

My trans is out awaiting UPS for a replacement case.

I don't have a lift, using a floor jack.
This is how I raised the engine to remove the swing arm.

Just a ratchet strap under the trans to the grab bars.

[porthole]

Just enough to wedge a shim under the engine case.

[porthole]

Something to keep in mind, even with a fairly stable jack like my J&S - don't forget to block up the front tire 

I was using a pile of boards until I remembered I had this jack in the shed. Works good and doesn't slip out as easy as the wood was.

I also tie wrapped the rotor to the fork to help keep the wheel from moving.

[Trapperdog]

Duane, Thanks for a great pictorial on this project! Sorry about your case, But you have probably saved a few of us from the same missfortune. Keep the pics coming!  Roger

[porthole]

Duane, Thanks for a great pictorial on this project! Sorry about your case, But you have probably saved a few of us from the same missfortune. Keep the pics coming!  Roger

Roger,

If I was doing it tomorrow (and I would) I would so it a bit different, same tools, just a different procedure then what the manual lists.

I wonder how many times people have taken thier bike to the dealer for a 6 speed install and were told "oh, by the way, when we took your trans apart we found that the case was cracked - you need a new one"

At least that is what I would expect to hear from a mechanic that replaces my spring tensioners with hydraulics and then says "to make the bike run as least as good as it did before you have to put gear drives in" 

[Trapperdog]

If I was doing it tomorrow (and I would) I would so it a bit different, same tools, just a different procedure then what the manual lists.

And now we all know...

I wonder how many times people have taken thier bike to the dealer for a 6 speed install and were told "oh, by the way, when we took your trans apart we found that the case was cracked - you need a new one"

 Exactly!

At least that is what I would expect to hear from a mechanic that replaces my spring tensioners with hydraulics and then says "to make the bike run as least as good as it did before you have to put gear drives in" 

Now that's funny  But sad

[porthole]

Now that's funny  But sad

Yeah - but at least Jim's got him on the right track now.

[Gettinold]

Something to keep in mind, even with a fairly stable jack like my J&S - don't forget to block up the front tire 

I was using a pile of boards until I remembered I had this jack in the shed. Works good and doesn't slip out as easy as the wood was.

I also tie wrapped the rotor to the fork to help keep the wheel from moving.

    

[porthole]

   

Making ya nervous Davey?

[Gettinold]

Havent you spent eough on yet. $$$$$$$$$$   

[porthole]

Yeah ---


Hey Brian -did you get a tracking number?

[hogasm]

Yeah ---


Hey Brian -did you get a tracking number?

No, but I will check on it in the morning

[hogasm]

 TINTON FALLS,
NJ,  US    03/17/2009    6:00 A.M.    OUT FOR DELIVERY
   03/17/2009    2:35 A.M.    ARRIVAL SCAN
HORSHAM,
PA,  US    03/17/2009    1:03 A.M.    DEPARTURE SCAN
HORSHAM,
PA,  US    03/16/2009    2:54 P.M.    ARRIVAL SCAN
RALEIGH,
NC,  US    03/16/2009    4:40 A.M.    DEPARTURE SCAN
RALEIGH,
NC,  US    03/15/2009    10:53 P.M.    ARRIVAL SCAN
MANTEO,
NC,  US    03/13/2009    8:43 P.M.    DEPARTURE SCAN
   03/13/2009    5:59 P.M.    ORIGIN SCAN

Tracking results provided by UPS:  03/17/2009 11:45 A.M.  ET

[Talon]

Might be a little late! 

[1711tab]

The night started out good and ended with an "oh chit" and that sinking feeling you get in your gut.

Put a bid (actually a buy it now) on Monday and it was here on Tuesday.

Make sure you install the Baker sealed bearing in your inner primary...

[1711tab]

Love my OD6 and 3.37.   

I LOVE MY OD6 R Ratio with 2.94 first and .80 final...

[porthole]

Make sure you install the Baker sealed bearing in your inner primary...

I will, just as soon as one gets here that was was honed out to fit 

[Trapperdog]

Duane, you've got me hooked on this install thread, keep us updated upon the parts arrival!  Roger

[erniezap]

Thinking about a 6 speed Roger? 

[hogasm]

Thinking about a 6 speed Roger? 

No Roger NO!!!

See all the chit that happens when you change.....tell him Duane....tell him

[Trapperdog]

Thinking about a 6 speed Roger? 

No Roger NO!!!

See all the chit that happens when you change.....tell him Duane....tell him

   You guys so funny... I'm one of the lucky ones, ole' red came with a six speed. I was thinking of installing one in the '05 I used to have but didn't have the cahones to do it. After reading of Duane's problems I'm sure glad I didn't. I used to tear into my Maico 400's (motocross bike) gearbox many years ago after every race. Poorly built trany that kept loosing gears and forks. Maybe not using the clutch had something to do with it. .My hat's off to Duane though, whole different ball game with these trany's.

[porthole]

Alright, so Brian mentioned the baker bearing.
Just what is a Baker bearing?

Baker distributes a one piece sealed bearing for the inner primary that replaced the HD separate race and roller bearing.

The picture below is the HD standard two piece bearing. The sleeve sitting above the bearing is a press fit on the the trans mainshaft. With higher HP engines there is a problem with these sleeves; they tend to move on the main shaft either towards the main drive gear, damaging the gear and seal or move towards the inner primary and damage the inner primary bearing.

[porthole]

Baker's single bearing presses into the case like the HD bearing, but the inner race is in the bearing. This eliminates the problem with the bearing walking on the shaft.
I have now talked to several people who do trans work and they are replacing these bearings as a PM if they have the primary off for any reason , including HD Dude Jim.

I mentioned earlier that I am waiting for a new bearing. Apparently Baker buys these bearings from a supplier and proceeds to hone them out so that they will fit on our transmissions.

The bearing I have does not fit.
I just happened to have tried the bearing on the main shaft before installing it in the primary. (just out of curiosity).

Mine did not fit! Contacted Brian right away because had ordered one from the same place I did after I told him about it. His works fine.

We got them here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160322364239QQssPageNameZMERC_VIC_RCRX_Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT&refitem=160320225205&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=CrossSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget&_trksid=p284.m183&_trkparms=algo%3DCRX%26its%3DS%252BI%26itu%3DUCI%252BSI%26otn%3D4

[porthole]

So I got a case dropped off on my front porch.  :2 vrolijk _21:

Little cleaning was needed. Here is the main bearing being installed. The black plate is a new "straight" plate that George from George's garage shipped out immediately after I told him what happened - "no charge".

This bearing is a light press to almost loose fit. Using the tool helps keep the bearing aligned properly when installing.

[porthole]

Other side

[porthole]

After the main bearing is pressed in and the snap ring is installed (opening to the rear) the main drive gear is pressed in using these tools.
This picture shows the correct driver

[porthole]

.

[porthole]

Opposite side with cup to allow gear to press into bearing. This part of the tool supports the inner race as the gear is pushed through.

[porthole]

Main drive gear installed. When you install the gear set (no pictures - too much oil) you have to be careful you do not damage this seal as the splined main shaft pushes though.

[porthole]

The "quad seal" is next

[porthole]

Followed by the seal race - spacer

In this picture the bevel is upside down. The bevel goes towards the trans case.

[porthole]

Spacer installed.

Baker also makes a replacement for this spacer - I have one coming - but don't know when.

[porthole]

The black Allen head screw with the silver nut is the shifter pawl eccentric adjuster. The screw has a offset pin machined on the inner end that adjusts the "center" of the shifter pawl.

Above this in the picture is the "pillow block - shift drum".

Above the drum is the shifter pawl, adjusted to "center" while in third gear. This pawl is what you are moving the shift drum with every time you move the shifter. The shift drum rotates and moves the shift forks to select the desired gear.

The arm in the back with the spring is the detent roller that settles the drum to center of whatever gear you are in.

[porthole]

Now waiting for some small parts

[porthole]

moved to end

[porthole]

Starter shaft seal (inner primary)

HD seal on the left, Cometic on the right.

The HD seal looks like a better seal - but everyone swears by the Cometics

[porthole]

This plate that holds the main and counter shaft bearings is called the "Trapdoor", and is chrome on the DD6.

Forgot to get an oil fill gasket 

[porthole]

Why a DD6? Why not an OD6

If you put a Screamin Eagle gear set in the bike you are stuck with it. The SE kit modifies the case by removing a boss the holds what I think is the fork support rod.
With many of the other manufacturers OD 6 you do not remove this boss.

The DD6 has several advantages over standard 6 speeds.

For one, in 6th, it is direct drive (the DD in DD6).
Direct drive is more efficient (when in "direct") as there are no parasitic losses from the transfer of power through the gear train.

The Baker gear set uses "helical" cut gears in 4th, 5th and 6th.

Helical gears are quieter then "straight cut" gears.

Helical gears kind of look like this:
///////// \\\\\\\\\

They mesh together like a screw, which is why they are quieter, but not as strong.

To offset the lack of strength, Baker uses straight cut gears in 1st, 2nd and 3rd.

Not real easy to see here, but the helical cut gears are at the top of this picture

[porthole]

The standard 5 speed uses all straight cut gears

[porthole]

Another advantage to the DD6 is a new gear ratio. The DD6 internal gear ratios are lower then factory gears.

To offset this difference in ratios, the kit is supplied with a new primary chain and a 28 tooth comp sprocket.

This 28 tooth comp sprocket overcomes the internal gearing change and the overall gear ratio is close to the original 5 speed, with the addition of 6th gear, in direct drive.

The advantage of the 28 tooth sprocket is the approximately 14% more starter torque.

Below, the stock and Baker comp sprockets.

[porthole]

Duane, you've got me hooked on this install thread, keep us updated upon the parts arrival!  Roger

Will do.

No Roger NO!!!

See all the chit that happens when you change.....tell him Duane....tell him

OK - Go for it Roger 

[erniezap]

Threads like this are what makes this site great!  The pics and commentary are awesome!

[Trapperdog]

Absolutely agree with Ernie! The side by side comparison pics of parts is a big help to those of us who have only heard why a particular part is better or different. Appreciate the members that can multitask a project....wrench/photograph/post...I can barley do one at a time

[1711tab]

Another advantage to the DD6 is a new gear ratio.The DD6 internal gear ratios are lower then factory gears.

To offset this difference in ratios, the kit is supplied with a new primary chain and a 28 tooth comp sprocket.
Stock and Baker.

This 28 tooth comp sprocket overcomes the internal gearing change and the overall gear ratio is close to the original 5 speed, with the additon of 6th gear.

The advantage of teh 28 tooth sprocket is the approxmitly 14% more starter torque.

The Baker OD6 is for High HP & TQ Motors as the Baker OD6 is stronger (gears) than the DD6 is...

[Boatman]

Threads like this are what makes this site great!  The pics and commentary are awesome!

When you are working on something, it is sometimes hard to stop and take pictures.  Much appreciated Duane.   Looks like a caveman could do it.     

By the way, the tranny case cleaned up nice.  Regarding the seals, the HD seal "looks" better than the cometic as you stated.

[porthole]

By the way, the tranny case cleaned up nice.  Regarding the seals, the HD seal "looks" better than the cometic as you stated.

Very little cleaning required Bob, inside or out.

I see I also missed a post/picture of how I avoided the press for the primary bearing. Will take care of that tomorrow.

[DCFIREMANN]

Duane just to throw in my 2 cents. In a touring bike I would never run a DD6. I would run only and OD6. You touring bike is on highway most of the time. IMHO that is the only time you will use OD.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[porthole]

Duane just to throw in my 2 cents. In a touring bike I would never run a DD6. I would run only and OD6. You touring bike is on highway most of the time. IMHO that is the only time you will use OD.

Mike - gave it a lot of thought before I picked one over the other.

The advantage of the DD is that it is relatively easy and fairly inexpensive to change the overall ratio. Your talking a one time cost of a primary chain and comp sprocket, a gasket and oil and a couple hours work.

Should I decide to add a trailer for the bike this was the route I wanted to go.

Could also change the primary gearing which I would have done had I gone the OD route.
I didn't do this for the gas mileage - did it 'cause I wanted too.

If I can tailor the gearing to my riding style with just the comp sprocket, then this is good.

Of course - if I don't like it  - I already have the tools - I can revert to the stock 5 speed and sell it on eBay. And everyone can say "told you so".

Wouldn't be the first time I put some thing on and then changed it later - did I mention how many seats I have gone through?

[1711tab]

Mike - gave it a lot of thought before I picked one over the other.


O course - if I don't like it  - I already have the tools - I can revert to the stock 5 speed and sell it on eBay. Wouldn't be the first time I put some thing on and then changed it later - did I mention how many seats I have gone through?

Amen on the seats...

[DCFIREMANN]

Mike - gave it a lot of thought before I picked one over the other.

The advantage of the DD is that it is relatively easy and fairly inexpensive to change the overall ratio. Your talking a one time cost of a primary chain and comp sprocket, a gasket and oil and a couple hours work.

Should I decide to add a trailer for the bike this was the route I wanted to go.

Could also change the primary gearing which I would have done had I gone the OD route.
I didn't do this for the gas mileage - did it 'cause I wanted too.

If I can tailor the gearing to my riding style with just the comp sprocket, then this is good.

O course - if I don't like it  - I already have the tools - I can revert to the stock 5 speed and sell it on eBay. Wouldn't be the first time I put some thing on and then changed it later - did I mention how many seats I have gone through?

Duane I don't want to talk about seats!!! I did not know you were thinking about a trailer. If you pulled a trailer the OD6 would be NFG!!!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[Talon]

Nice job Duane, thanks for the great pictures along the way, really great that George's Garage sent the new plate with no hassles, good customer service!

Craig

[DCFIREMANN]

Nice job Duane, thanks for the great pictures along the way, really great that George's Garage sent the new plate with no hassles, good customer service!
Craig

That is what it is about in these ecomonic times. It is great to find vendors like this.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[porthole]

For the inner primary bearing I skipped the balancing act on the press and used what I had.

Put the inner in the wood vise and used the trans tool kit to remove the old roller bearing and install the new Baker Hi-Torque bearing.

I used these tools.

[porthole]

Removal

[porthole]

.

[porthole]

This is the original HD trans sprocket spacer next to the new Baker spacer.

From Baker's web site

sprocket spacer

If you are a seasoned technician, you have seen a severely worn sprocket spacer. Over time and miles with dirt and grit, the stock 33344-94 spacer is too soft and it gets gouged by the seal that rides against it. As the spacer gets gouged, the seal relaxes. When the seal relaxes, the leaks begin. Our sprocket spacer is a direct replacement for the stock spacer except ours is case hardened steel that has a Rockwell ‘C’ hardness of 55. No more gouging, no more leaks.

Sprocket Spacer, 94-Up Big Twin & Sportster p/n 33344-94S

Whether you agree with the hype or not, the Baker part is cheaper then the HD part. And the the recess is cut into both sides, so it can be installed in either direction.

[porthole]

I strongly suggest - that if you install the Baker Hi-Torque bearing - that you test fit it before installing in the primary.

Brian and I both got this bearing from the same vendor, ordering within an hour of each other.


His fit fine - mine did not fit!

Baker acquires these bearing and then hones out the inner race to .9858 +/- .0002 (on my receipt).

apparently my bearing missed the QC.

Baker immediately sent out a new bearing and I had it in 2 days.

[porthole]

Nice job Duane, thanks for the great pictures along the way, really great that George's Garage sent the new plate with no hassles, good customer service!

Craig

Yes, great service.

I could have just straightened the plate that I bent, but, the area where it bent is already a weak spot (recessed hex) and once you bend a piece of metal ......................

So, I did straighten the plate, then drilled both pieces and tapped the original plate.
Now they are doubled up and should not bend any more.

I still don't know if the case broke first or the plate bending pulled the bolt out and caused the problem.

[porthole]

Two version of the primary drive holder used to remove the comp and clutch basket nuts
The Jim's tool, a plastic stepped wedge is sitting on the primary above the comp sprocket.

Georges Garage sells the flat bar stock that you jam between the sprockets.

With the large Baker comp sprocket (28 teeth) the bar was a little tricky to use, but I like it better then the plastic wedge.

[porthole]

Ever wonder why the oil can spit back out at you while adding to the tank?

The fill hole is a little on the small side underneath the oil fill cover.

[porthole]

Baker supplies a bottle of Spectro 6 Speed gear lube with their gear kit.
The bottle holds 23 ounces, just right to fill up the trans 

I contacted Spectro to see if the smaller bottles were available. They are specially packaged for Baker and not available on the market outside of Baker.

[porthole]

I pulled the case out of the frame from the right side per the manual.

Would not go in.

I had to remove the exhaust bracket and install it from the left side. Part of the problem is the bigger pan. (I found a great deal on this and that will be in another thread).

It's in the bike, and the bike is running. On the jack the trans shifts smoothly and easy.


Running in the garage with no load on it I couldn't tell if it was quiet or not.

[Twolanerider]

It's in the bike, and the bike is running. On the jack the trans shifts smoothly and easy.

Excellent.  Best news yet.   Congrats on getting her done Duane. 

[Black Diamond]

I pulled the case out of the frame from the right side per the manual.

Would not go in.

I had to remove the exhaust bracket and install it from the left side. Part of the problem is the bigger pan. (I found a great deal on this and that will be in another thread).

It's in the bike, and the bike is running. On the jack the trans shifts smoothly and easy.


Running in the garage with no load on it I couldn't tell if it was quiet or not.

Great news. This has been very informative. Great posting!

JW

[djkak]

Opposite side with cup to allow gear to press into bearing. This part of the tool supports the inner race as the gear is pushed through.

Thanks for sharing this ordeal with us, Duane; great stuff! It appears from your photos that the Baker setup uses the OE single row ball bearing for the main drive gear. I’m a little fuzzy on this, but I believe that Milwaukee went to a double row ball bearing in this application to accommodate the additional thrust force generated by the helical gears. Is that MDG bearing a single row ball bearing?

[porthole]

The Baker replacement bearing was similar to the original

[Boatman]

Excellent.  Best news yet.   Congrats on getting her done Duane. 

Knew it (install) would end on a positive note.   

[Trapperdog]

Glad you made it through all the problems and she's back together and running!

Could you please take something else apart and do another pictorial for us? 

[porthole]

OK, when I get ......................

[porthole]

Or maybe not 

[Trapperdog]

OK, when I get ......................

[porthole]

OK, got the 100 mile road test in.

I like it.

The trans shifts smoother.
The shifts seemed be be a shorter throw. They are much crisper too. Don't get the clunk that LtBawb use to always point out to me.

The rpm drop at 70 is somewhere between 300-400 rpm. Too hard to tell with our very accurate gauges.

As I mentioned previously, the advantage with the DD6 is the ability to lower the overall gear ratio with a simple sprocket and chain replacement. A big plus should I decide to get a trailer or just decide I would rather have more low end torque.

During this change the inner primary got real shiny and I replaced the HD main shaft bearing with the highly recommended Baker bearing. I also used Baker's main race spacer.

I adjusted the speedo with a Dakota Digital module
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=238/category_id=115/home_id=115/mode=prod/prd238.htm

Very easy to setup and use.

[Boatman]

Don't get the clunk that LtBawb use to always point out to me.

What are friends for?   

Glad you are happy with the outcome.  You did so much at one time.  Will like it even better on trips.

[spydglide]

Duane, glad to hear it's all working together nicely......and you've got a grin on your face.  Looking forward to seeing the red bike run in the Blue Ridge Mtns. this summer.  har!  spyder

[porthole]

What are friends for?   

Glad you are happy with the outcome.  You did so much at one time.  Will like it even better on trips.

Now I will be able to keep up with you 

[spydglide]

Now I will be able to keep up with you 

HAR!    spyder

[Boatman]

Now I will be able to keep up with you 

Low blow.   

[porthole]

Low blow.   

All in the most respect  - you know we enjoy similar riding styles 

[Boatman]

All in the most respect  - you know we enjoy similar riding styles 

I'll just have to start using 5th since you have 6.     

[porthole]

Bob - you asked for a side cover picture - here it is,

[porthole]

Although I use the interface cover, so once that is on you cannot see the the Baker trapdoor.

[Boatman]

Looks like you were able to use the stock hydraulic clutch cover?

What's the chrome reflection at the rear of the cylinder?  (has a reflection of your leg-looks like a pan).

Sure would look nice with a chrome starter.   

[Twolanerider]

What's the chrome reflection at the rear of the cylinder?  (has a reflection of your leg-looks like a pan).

a/c cover

Sure would look nice with a chrome starter.   

Evil bastard.

[spydglide]

Sure would look nice with a chrome starter.   

Hey Porthole, just remind him of how good the other side is looking w/ the new chrome inner primary. It's never completely done, is it?  har!   spyder

[porthole]

Looks like you were able to use the stock hydraulic clutch cover?

Correct - and with the interface cover = stealth mode 

What's the chrome reflection at the rear of the cylinder?  (has a reflection of your leg-looks like a pan).

Tear drop air cleaner  - and with the Screamin Eagle 103  center plate 

Sure would look nice with a chrome starter.   

Smart azzz

[porthole]

Hey Porthole, just remind him of how good the other side is looking w/ the new chrome inner primary. It's never completely done, is it?  har!   spyder

Yeah - you tell him Spyder.

Hey at least I got the chrome inner inner primary cover - do you Bobby Boy 

[Boatman]

Hey at least I got the chrome inner inner primary cover - do you Bobby Boy 

I was lucky Duane.  The previous owner had the chrome inner primary done and also the pullback handlebars.  Still had a lot to do though.   

[porthole]

Yeah - but I have the chrome inner - inner cover 

[Boatman]

Evil bastard.

My wife calls me a selfish bastard, so I must be a selfish evil bastard.     

 

[hogasm]

My wife calls me a selfish bastard, so I must be a selfish evil bastard.     

 

No your not the selfish evil bastard.....you just tell it like it is

But if Porthole had of left his scoot stock, you wouldn't be able to give him some chit

[porthole]

Don't recall if I made note of it here, but the Baker gear set does not require a new side cover.

[porthole]

This is the original HD trans sprocket spacer next to the new Baker spacer.

From Baker's web site

sprocket spacer

If you are a seasoned technician, you have seen a severely worn sprocket spacer. Over time and miles with dirt and grit, the stock 33344-94 spacer is too soft and it gets gouged by the seal that rides against it. As the spacer gets gouged, the seal relaxes. When the seal relaxes, the leaks begin. Our sprocket spacer is a direct replacement for the stock spacer except ours is case hardened steel that has a Rockwell ‘C’ hardness of 55. No more gouging, no more leaks.

Sprocket Spacer, 94-Up Big Twin & Sportster p/n 33344-94S

Whether you agree with the hype or not, the Baker part is cheaper then the HD part. And the the recess is cut into both sides, so it can be installed in either direction.

An update on this spacer.

I pulled my trans out and sent it back to Baker, didn't like the way it was shifting.
They rebuilt the trans (looks like a complete new gear set), supplied all new bearings and gaskets and shipped it back on their dime.

The spacer mentioned here apparently lives up to the claim to being a better material. Didn't remember it until I checked this thread for a post.

But, the Baker spacer, after 25K miles still looks good with no wear and is back in the bike with a new quad seal o-ring.

The spacer on the left is HD at about 22K miles, new Baker on the right.

[porthole]

Looks like you were able to use the stock hydraulic clutch cover?

What's the chrome reflection at the rear of the cylinder?  (has a reflection of your leg-looks like a pan).

Sure would look nice with a chrome starter.   

Chrome starter was put in this past spring Bob.
Still don't know why I opted for the chrome version