Topic: Re: Dyno Numbers (Read 65249 times)

cigarmike · « **Reply #15 on:** August 03, 2006, 11:00:33 AM »

That is true, the first run numbers were much lower then what is posted, the first run you se posted on the chart, was done when bike was warmed up. He explained everything as he went, he was most anal, and spent over 2 hours tweaking it till it was just right at all levels. At 1 point in the dyno, my numbers were higher, but not consistent in 4 to 5 runs, the final numbers you see posted, he did 4 runs in a row, and they all were identical. Whatever my numbers are, the bike is running like melted butter now compared to before, Im most happy.....except I want the '07 with the 110 too now.

GC_Super · « **Reply #16 on:** August 03, 2006, 11:49:41 AM »

Mike, sounds like you got a pretty good dyno guy. Wished I could say the same. I wasn't present when they did mine and my numbers are lower than most. I talked to them prior to the tuning and he mentioned how much they didn't like V&H true duals, and guess what I have on mine. It does run good though and when I hear of a good, competent tuner around here I'll probably re do it.

michael06se · « **Reply #17 on:** September 05, 2006, 07:26:17 PM »

my dyno numbers are 106 hp 116tq this was done with a race tuner v-h 2 into1 air cleaner and new cams to match the way harley originally desingned the moter most dont know it was designed to have a dome top piston but changed there thought of compression problems and went to a flat top piston leaving the same cam so by putting in a smaller duration cam i went from 100hp and 105 tq before cam change to 106hp and 116tq what a difference but still have a moter as dependable as stock

GC_Super · « **Reply #18 on:** September 06, 2006, 10:55:34 AM »

Quote

my dyno numbers are 106 hp 116tq this was done with a race tuner v-h 2 into1 air cleaner and new cams to match the way harley originally desingned the moter most dont know it was designed to have a dome top piston but changed there thought of compression problems and went to a flat top piston leaving the same cam so by putting in a smaller duration cam i went from 100hp and 105 tq before cam change to 106hp and 116tq what a difference but still have a moter as dependable as stock

Those are great numbers for sure. What cam did you use and what is your cranking comp and comp ratio?

michael06se · « **Reply #19 on:** September 06, 2006, 08:49:06 PM »

i used a redshift 575 with s&s geardrive to eliminate chain and shoe. like i said i did not do anything with comp its stock it might build some dynamic comp but none at starting to even speak of it really makes a big differece especialy the torq gain with such a heavy bike

Cerdo · « **Reply #20 on:** September 26, 2006, 10:45:22 AM »

[smiley=worthless.gif] Had my pure stock 2007 FLHTCUSE-2 on a dyno at a dealer party lat week. Pulled 82.3 HP; however, thay did not give a print out nor the torque number. What do you expect for free.

kbiforce · « **Reply #21 on:** October 01, 2006, 10:24:30 PM »

michael06se, Would you post a copy of your dyno sheet? Thanks.

Hawgwash · « **Reply #22 on:** October 02, 2006, 01:15:36 AM »

SE 2:1 pipes, SEAC, SERT
HP 91.66 & torque 93.58

JDOFLHRIDER · « **Reply #23 on:** October 10, 2006, 07:13:41 PM »

THIS BIKE HAS SE AIRCLEANER,KERKER SUPER TRAP MUFFLERS,PRO TUNNER

hd-dude · « **Reply #24 on:** October 10, 2006, 09:18:23 PM »

JDO;
Good looking torque curve, That's the first i've seen of an 07

(PS, I resized and rotated the pic for you)

JOYRDZ · « **Reply #25 on:** October 14, 2006, 02:41:22 AM »

Hey JDOFLHRIDER- As the proud owner of a brand new Blue 07 Screamin Eagle Ultra, I've been looking for a pipe/air cleaner/ECU tuner to open it up a little, and it looks like you've got the perfect combo- you've got some great numbers. Can you tell me more about the muffers (slip-on?, part number?) and the 'Pro Tuner' (is this Harley, what is the part number?).

I would also like to know if you like the sound of the pipes- are they loud enough, not loud enough, too loud- would you buy the same ones again?

I'm really jazzed about the numbes you got- I hope to be at the same place in a couple of weeks!

P.S. This is my first post- Hi everybody!

jeffj · « **Reply #26 on:** October 14, 2006, 10:02:10 AM »

Quote

Hey JDOFLHRIDER- As the proud owner of a brand new Blue 07 Screamin Eagle Ultra, I've been looking for a pipe/air cleaner/ECU tuner to open it up a little, and it looks like you've got the perfect combo- you've got some great numbers. Can you tell me more about the muffers (slip-on?, part number?) and the 'Pro Tuner' (is this Harley, what is the part number?).

I would also like to know if you like the sound of the pipes- are they loud enough, not loud enough, too loud- would you buy the same ones again?

I'm really jazzed about the numbes you got- I hope to be at the same place in a couple of weeks!

P.S. This is my first post- Hi everybody!

Welocme to the site Jman

Take a look at the Freedom Exhaust package as the may be ready for the 2007 Cuse's
Here is the link http://www.dynasite.net/dynaweb/1000441/explore.cfm?p=N&store=Y&U=1&SS=1&S=1000441
and phone # (775) 358-3500 - Reno NV
Ask for Brad (good guy) and I am sure he can hook you up

jeffj

ultraboy · « **Reply #27 on:** October 16, 2006, 05:16:47 PM »

2006 CUSE

First attempt at 100 ft-lbf at rear wheel:

SE slip-ons, SE high flow, SERT.
Disappointing, 82hp / 90.88 ft-lbf. The sound was somewhat better and the power was useable in that 2500 and 4000 range. The constant "tinging" sound, like a small chain dragging behind the bike was somewhat annoying though.

Then...the race...then more changes...

Installed Rinehart true duals, raced tuned again, then I get a respectable 95 hp / 96 ft-lbf. But all the peak power is between 4500 and 5500 rpm. It's not real world useable, except for hard riding, like this past weekend on the Dragon. The "tinging" was gone, but a rattle has started.

The bottom end power from idle up to 2000 in first gear is almost non-existant. It's so bad that my clutch is heating up in traffic and shuttering, and burning, but not slipping -- yet. Before the Rineharts I never had this problem.

Honestly, I'm a bit disappointed in the Rineharts. I installed then myself and had them on in about 2 hours, but the rear cylinder pipe is so close to the clutch cover (3/16") clearance that all the exhaust pipe heat next to the chrome clutch cover, and the clutch concerns me. The lack of bottom-end power is disappointing, but they look GREAT, and the bike runs hard between 3500 and 4500 rpm, then it runs real STRONG between 4500 and 5500 rpm. It's set up great for a high bank oval! LOL or those 70 mph roll-on drag races on the interstate with riding buddies, or with my wife who jumped on me 4 weeks ago, (while running the SE setup) with the whole crew riding behind us, with her race tuned softail Deluxe at 80 mph, and I couldn't pull away from her all the way up to 115 mph. That's when this whole Rinehart thing started. When your wife jumps on you in front of the whole gang, and your on a slight uphill grade so everyone behind you has a clear view of the race, and you can't pull away from her, well, your under a lot of pressure! Then when you look over and she won't look at you and you see a big grin on her face like "got-cha" and as you both back off, you see her saying over and over again, "yes, yes, yes" as she blasts by, well, then you know that 83 hp and 90.88 ft-lbf ain't gonna cut it. Man, the ragging I took over that, was horrible, but the pride I had in her was awesome!

And to make matter worse, her new main bike is an 06 SE Fat Boy that has yet to be race tuned! So, heck, I'm under alot of pressure here!

So, anyway, I'm thinking about either...

a.) Removing the baffles in the Rineharts (I have to do that anyway to bend the tabs to stop the rattling sound) and installing a 1/2 inch stainless steel bolt at the front of the baffle to create some back pressure.

b.) Reinstalling the factory header pipes and useing the Rinehart slip ons.

c.) Race tuning it again, as is, and asking for more bottom end power --if possible. The lack of bottom end almost feels like a timing issue.

I'm told (haven't measured yet) that the HD stock header pipes are larger in diameter than the Rineharts so they flow better right out of the engine. I do know that the cross-over tube on the stock header pipes creates the much needed back pressure for torque, and the stock header pipes clear the clutch cover by and inch or so. An engine builder told me that Rinehart's mythic performance drops off as the cubic inches go up. He said that Rineharts perform great on the TC88, but not near as well on the 103 HD engines.

Has anyone else had the same bottom end issue with Rineharts?

Any clutch problems?

txbear55 · « **Reply #28 on:** October 17, 2006, 12:19:17 AM »

ultraboy, I have an 06 with SERT, Zippers hi-flow A/C, and Rinehart slip-ons. Got 94hp-99tq. No major tq dip down low vs stock, but the stock cams really do not like it much below 2500. Probably need to get with Zippers or Freedom to really wake up the bottom end. Oh yeah, looks impressive with one black Rinehart tip and one purple one!

GC_Super · « **Reply #29 on:** October 17, 2006, 07:52:53 AM »

Quote

2006 CUSE

First attempt at 100 ft-lbf at rear wheel:

SE slip-ons, SE high flow, SERT.
Disappointing, 82hp / 90.88 ft-lbf. The sound was somewhat better and the power was useable in that 2500 and 4000 range. The constant "tinging" sound, like a small chain dragging behind the bike was somewhat annoying though.

Then...the race...then more changes...

Installed Rinehart true duals, raced tuned again, then I get a respectable 95 hp / 96 ft-lbf. But all the peak power is between 4500 and 5500 rpm. It's not real world useable, except for hard riding, like this past weekend on the Dragon. The "tinging" was gone, but a rattle has started.

The bottom end power from idle up to 2000 in first gear is almost non-existant. It's so bad that my clutch is heating up in traffic and shuttering, and burning, but not slipping -- yet. Before the Rineharts I never had this problem.

Honestly, I'm a bit disappointed in the Rineharts. I installed then myself and had them on in about 2 hours, but the rear cylinder pipe is so close to the clutch cover (3/16") clearance that all the exhaust pipe heat next to the chrome clutch cover, and the clutch concerns me. The lack of bottom-end power is disappointing, but they look GREAT, and the bike runs hard between 3500 and 4500 rpm, then it runs real STRONG between 4500 and 5500 rpm. It's set up great for a high bank oval! LOL or those 70 mph roll-on drag races on the interstate with riding buddies, or with my wife who jumped on me 4 weeks ago, (while running the SE setup) with the whole crew riding behind us, with her race tuned softail Deluxe at 80 mph, and I couldn't pull away from her all the way up to 115 mph. That's when this whole Rinehart thing started. When your wife jumps on you in front of the whole gang, and your on a slight uphill grade so everyone behind you has a clear view of the race, and you can't pull away from her, well, your under a lot of pressure! Then when you look over and she won't look at you and you see a big grin on her face like "got-cha" and as you both back off, you see her saying over and over again, "yes, yes, yes" as she blasts by, well, then you know that 83 hp and 90.88 ft-lbf ain't gonna cut it. Man, the ragging I took over that, was horrible, but the pride I had in her was awesome!

And to make matter worse, her new main bike is an 06 SE Fat Boy that has yet to be race tuned! So, heck, I'm under alot of pressure here!

So, anyway, I'm thinking about either...

a.) Removing the baffles in the Rineharts (I have to do that anyway to bend the tabs to stop the rattling sound) and installing a 1/2 inch stainless steel bolt at the front of the baffle to create some back pressure.

b.) Reinstalling the factory header pipes and useing the Rinehart slip ons.

c.) Race tuning it again, as is, and asking for more bottom end power --if possible. The lack of bottom end almost feels like a timing issue.

I'm told (haven't measured yet) that the HD stock header pipes are larger in diameter than the Rineharts so they flow better right out of the engine. I do know that the cross-over tube on the stock header pipes creates the much needed back pressure for torque, and the stock header pipes clear the clutch cover by and inch or so. An engine builder told me that Rinehart's mythic performance drops off as the cubic inches go up. He said that Rineharts perform great on the TC88, but not near as well on the 103 HD engines.

Has anyone else had the same bottom end issue with Rineharts? Any clutch problems?

If you go through the numerous dyno sheets on these bikes, one constant is that for overall numbers, the Rinehart bikes produce the biggest numbers, but, you are correct that they don't shine below 3 or 4K RPM. On my bike, I didn't want to go into the motor, at least not during the 2 yr warranty period, so I've opted for the 3.37 gearing to help this bike make what feels like more power in the lower rpm range. I've been very happy with this set up for one and two up touring in the mountains, and it climbs hills like a tractor from 2500 rpm up. I just recently changed from V&H true duals to a 2 into 1 Fat Cat and gained 5% over the true duals. In stock form, these bikes will never win many races from low rpm roll ons. My riding buddy has a very well tuned SERG, Fat Cat, 95/203 cams, and he will win most drag races between us as he always gets the jump, but given a little more room, I pass him as his small cam plays out. So, my advice would be to gear it down and go with a 2 into one, or buy your wife a slower bike.

Author Topic: Re: Dyno Numbers (Read 65249 times)

cigarmike