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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: 32Lager on July 02, 2019, 12:09:35 AM
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I've been searching the forum for some advice on what seems to be a very popular topic - noise in a 110. I couldn't find information about my problem so I'm hoping someone can offer some good advice.
This is a 2009 FLHTCUSE4 Ultra Classic HD110 cu. in.
Current mileage is 54,000
Oil pressure is 32 psi cold, mid 20’s at operating temp.
Oil use is about 8-12 oz. between changes.
In 2014, at 39,000 miles, a stock lifter was noisy so new .255 cams, S&S lifters and the latest compensator spring were installed under warranty. Everything worked fine until lifter noise started again 10,000 miles later. This time, I took it to an experienced local HD indy shop (a friend) and he found pieces of cam chain tensioner in the cam chest and oil pan. The plastic scored another cam, lifter and the oil pump. All locations were searched for more debris and the crank was checked for runout and end play. Everything looked ok so a decision was made to install Andrews cams, Fueling lifters and a Fueling oil pump. The engine ran great until last fall when I started hearing a noise in my primary case when it's warm and idling. There's no noise when it's started cold but a mile later, it starts clunking at the first stop sign. When I feather the throttle to 1000 rpm, the noise goes away but we feel a vibration at speeds over 70 mph. My friend suggested taking it to another Harley shop to use their analyzer or check the map on their dyno if necessary. I did that Thursday and after riding it, they thought the map was fine but they wanted to pull the primary cover to take a look. He said the compensator spring looked ok but he found 0.040 end play on the crank. The runout was within tolerances at that end but they didn't check the other side because it was late and I was 70 miles from home.
Their predictions were gloomy and the service manager's first suggestion was to trade it in but we don't have an extra 25 or 30k laying around. The second option was to buy a customer's 2011 103 stage 4 engine with 5100 miles. The third was contact Dark Horse, pull the engine and have them repair what's necessary. My thought is to buy a new engine from S&S using my Indy's dealer cost.
With my current mileage at 54,000, would you recommend sending the engine to Dark Horse for crank repair or buy an engine replacement ? I'm interested in an S&S 124 long block but it looks like I'll need a larger throttle body and another tuner and dyno run.
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.040" is not within specifications. My dog's tail wags in a tighter tolerance than that.
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.040" is not within specifications. My dog's tail wags in a tighter tolerance than that.
I want to see you try to measure that :huepfenlol2:
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This was John's reply from Dark Horse:
Has anyone attempted to shim the compensator, sometimes that simple adjustment can resolve compensator noises? If endplay was checked with the compensator off, you may get that much with OEM bearings on a sufficiently operating crankshaft. If it is .040" run-out then we have issues that need to be addressed and the sooner the better.
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They (H-D) sell shims for the compensator because of this issue, they don't recommend installing more than two.
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Food for thought - HD does sell shims 2nd shim didn’t really help me but I am not working with a stock motor it’s more of an almost stock by Otis definition, Anyhow I recall a buddy telling me that one of the big after market vendors like tucker rocky, drag or another sells their own kit that is supposed to be stronger/rigid and helps to better eliminate the comp noise
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The way that I understand it the shims are to get the stack at the compensator back into proper alignment and that will help to reduce the noise and wear. Have not had to use them myself....yet.