Ron,
regarding a teardown..
Guys think the rod bearings will be bad after a failure like this. That hasn't been my experience unless they were already bad. With the top end off clean the rods with brake cleaner and a spray can tip, plastic red straw. Then motor the assembly swiftly. After stopping look for up and down movement between the rod and pin, should be none. Move the rods fore to aft in the case, should be smooth no clicks or notchy feel. Check runout. My spec is < .006 TIR not < .012 like the factory, assuming chain drive. If ok proceed pulling the motor to clean out the case and replace the main bearings. Clean and flush everything else. Replace oil cooler, insurance. Pull the oil pan and replace if the baffle can't be removed and replaced. All connecting passages and oil filter assembly plus cooler adapter need to be checked and cleaned. Do this yourself, if you are capable and have the tools, or take it to a qualified shop and insist no shortcuts. For brevity I am not getting into all the overhaul aspects, just an overview.
Regarding prevention.
Springs:
The stock motor only needs about 145# seat pressure and a spring rate of 350 lbs. The 103 has 125# seat pressure but the 7mm valves and spring package are considerable lighter. Failures on a stock 103 are far less common. The stock 110 springs are closer to 165# seat and 420 spring rate. This and the cams (SE255) lift and closing rate are part of the problem.
Cam:
Suggestions for more conservative lobes, TTS 150, HD stock 103 HO, S&S such as 509 or 570, older Andrews grinds such as TW54, Wild Things TC24D, compression adjusted for each. I have excellent dual springs I use, adequate pressure and rate, good for .650 lift. Beehives are touted as being lower pressure. Most from the common vendors, goodson/kibblewhite AV&V PAC, are not. Most will go in the stock heads at ~1.85" and be in excess of 175# seat pressure with a rate that is OK. Still a single spring with no insurance of catastrophic failure if it breaks at mid to high rpm.
Pushrods:
Use a rigid pushrod. The stock pushrods are not adequate and most aftermarket cams require adjustables anyway or custom solid heavier wall tubes. The SE 18404-08 pushrods are adequate.
Lifters:
I use and sell an american made lifter that is reduced travel and is designed for higher spring pressures and abuse a typical hydraulic roller heavy valve train dishes out, also slow bleed. It has circlips, not crimped housing, so the axle and bearings can be inspected. I would inspect them at 15k intervals and adjust the interval according to the findings.