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[porthole]

Vibration is mentioned several times.

What is the the perceived vibration?
In the seat - pegs - bars?

Annoying or just noticeable?

[Chief]

Are the holes in the bushings offset or is it just the picture (reply # 12)?

The holes are offset to match the offset in the swingarm pivot bolt location in the rubber mounts.

[Chief]

Since Chuck did such a good job here, and caused some grief for some of us, I think that he should compensate all of us who have installed the Ride Str8 or Tru Track.

If we take some off for depreciation and average out the cost between the TT and RS at $300, less the $100 for the Sta-Bo's that means Chuck owes us each about $200.

And in all fairness, all though that benefit from his insight and go straight to the Sta-Bo will owe him $200. 

Chuck - PM me for my address 

How about all parties of the second group deliver said funds to all parties of the first group and all just agree to take said funds and throw big parties.

[porthole]

The holes are offset to match the offset in the swingarm pivot bolt location in the rubber mounts.

Haven't in there so I couldn't tell if it was the picture or the "way it works"

So, that leads to question #2, are they offset for alignment purposes, or is it a "fits one way only" thing.

BTW, that frame looks awesome, sucks that E-Glides didn't get the PC option.

[Chief]

Vibration is mentioned several times.

What is the the perceived vibration?
In the seat - pegs - bars?

Annoying or just noticeable?

I'd like to know this as well. The mfg. of the Sta-Bos admits that people have complained about it, but it lessens or goes away with mileage. They also reccomend loosening up the other mounts and running the bike to let it settle in, evidently in an attempt to eliminate and binding that may contribute to the vibration.

[miker]

When my ride-str8 was new, there was some vib through the floor boards at higher rpm's...not much but some.
It has calmed down now with around 3k on it.

[Chief]

Haven't in there so I couldn't tell if it was the picture or the "way it works"

So, that leads to question #2, are they offset for alignment purposes, or is it a "fits one way only" thing.

BTW, that frame looks awesome, sucks that E-Glides didn't get the PC option.

The big rubber mounts have a "U" shaped notch in them to align them with the knob on the swingarm brackets. You can see the notch in this picture.
(The offset of the pivot shaft hole is also visible.)
This notch goes in at about 12:00 position. In that case, the Sta-Bos will always go in one direction only.

I'll take some pics of the reinstall as this is one area that is the source of a lot of questions. It just seems like it is a crude way of setting up the vehicle alignment.

[Boatman]

I had no vibration with just the True Track.  I had the exhaust off and decided to add the Stabos (with the TT) as it was easy to do then and they weren't that much from Puzzled.  
I didn't have a vibration as much as it was a buzzing thru the floorboards and highway pegs at certain rpm's..  Only had the Stabos in about 50 miles and took them out and left the TT on and buzzing was gone thru the pegs and floorbooards .

If I did the Stabos again, I would do some sanding/polishing of the bushings and of the bracketry so they wouldn't be as tight.  

I just didn't want to put up with the buzz for 3,000 miles.

[hogasm]

On my 04 SEEG with the stock Dunlop tires, tour pack loaded down or no tour pack and a light bike..I had no problems what so ever.

Changed tires to a 18x4.25 rear with a 150 or a 160 tire....front 21x3.5 with a 120 tire, the problem with rear steer is horrible even going in a straight line.

Installed the Sta-Bo bushings and it took care of most of the problem in a straight line, but it is still there.

Re-installed the stock tires and there is a small amount of vibration in the floor boards. The bushings have been in for over 10,000 miles.

Re-installed the 18-21 set up and installed a new Alloy Art stabilizer. ALLIGNED THE DRIVETRAIN, Rode the bike yesterday for only 50 miles a nd the straight line rear steer was not there.

Will not get a chance to put many more miles on the scoot till we get to Daytona, and when I get back I will give more feedback.

From what I have experienced so far, I believe that the change in geometry of the bike with the different tire combinations is a huge contributing factor in rear steer. I am also curious as to how many are having this problem with just a change in tire manufacture. Is a sofler compound  tire making the bikes behave strangely. 

[Chief]

I had no vibration with just the True Track.  I had the exhaust off and decided to add the Stabos (with the TT) as it was easy to do then and they weren't that much from Puzzled.  
I didn't have a vibration as much as it was a buzzing thru the floorboards and highway pegs at certain rpm's..  Only had the Stabos in about 50 miles and took them out and left the TT on and buzzing was gone thru the pegs and floorbooards .

If I did the Stabos again, I would do some sanding/polishing of the bushings and of the bracketry so they wouldn't be as tight.  

I just didn't want to put up with the buzz for 3,000 miles.

I think that is very common when both brackets and Sta-Bos are used and I feel part of the reason is because it is not readily apparent that both the brackets and the bushings are attacking the same problem. People are essentially doubling up on the fix which leads to too much direct connection between the drivetrain and frame. The result is converting a rubber mount motor to a semi-rigid mount.

[Chief]

Re-installed the 18-21 set up and installed a new Alloy Art stabilizer. ALLIGNED THE DRIVETRAIN, Rode the bike yesterday for only 50 miles a nd the straight line rear steer was not there.

I think that is a very important point and is overlooked all too often. I'm in a situation that I'm starting from zero. New frame and new engine stabilizers. I can set the new stabilizers to match the stock isolaters in length for a starting point, but it's still a whole new ball game.

The method HD uses, referencing the pivot shaft to the swingarm brackets, just seems crude. The alignment with the front wheel needs to be considered, but doesn't seem to be part of the equation. I'll be digging into this deeper when I get to that point in a week or so.

[Hoist!]

I think that is very common when both brackets and Sta-Bos are used and I feel part of the reason is because it is not readily apparent that both the brackets and the bushings are attacking the same problem. People are essentially doubling up on the fix which leads to too much direct connection between the drivetrain and frame. The result is converting a rubber mount motor to a semi-rigid mount.

That's exactly what you're doing by using the Sta-Bos and the Velva touch Urethane front mount. Between those things and your Corbin seat, I hope you can sit in the saddle all day. You're in for a very stiff ride! I have these on my solo seat FXR style Pro Street, and would not want my Road Bike to ride like that. Great for a bar hopper and for racing. But not good for long road trips. It defeats the purpose of having a rubber-mounted drivetrain.

Hoist!

[hogasm]

I think that is a very important point and is overlooked all too often. I'm in a situation that I'm starting from zero. New frame and new engine stabilizers. I can set the new stabilizers to match the stock isolaters in length for a starting point, but it's still a whole new ball game.

The method HD uses, referencing the pivot shaft to the swingarm brackets, just seems crude. The alignment with the front wheel needs to be considered, but doesn't seem to be part of the equation. I'll be digging into this deeper when I get to that point in a week or so.

We used lasers to align the drive train. You have to make sure that the motor is centerlined in the frame. You must also make sure that the bars and fairing are also aligned. This can cause the air to not hit the bike straight on, which will cause rear steer while going in a straight line. This all takes time but when you are putting the bike together from scratch it wont be that hard. Just make sure that the bike is level on the lift and keep the bike immobile.

[Chief]

That's exactly what you're doing by using the Sta-Bos and the Velva touch Urethane front mount. Between those things and your Corbin seat, I hope you can sit in the saddle all day. You're in for a very stiff ride! I have these on my solo seat FXR style Pro Street, and would not want my Road Bike to ride like that. Great for a bar hopper and for racing. But not good for long road trips. It defeats the purpose of having a rubber-mounted drivetrain.

Hoist!

The VR front mount is still a question for sure. Hopefully the VR uerthane stabilizers will lessen the vibration the solid stabilizers transmitted to the frame. The Sta-Bos alone shouldn't increase the vibration any more than the TT or RS  would by themselves. How does yours ride with the TT installed?  I've also gone to urethane bushings in the bars which may transmit some additional vibes up them too, but then again the 575's are heavier which will tend to dampen that a bit. Lots of unknowns in the equation, so the end result won't be known until it's back on the road.

[Hoist!]

The VR front mount is still a question for sure. Hopefully the VR uerthane stabilizers will lessen the vibration the solid stabilizers transmitted to the frame. The Sta-Bos alone shouldn't increase the vibration any more than the TT or RS  would by themselves. How does yours ride with the TT installed?  I've also gone to urethane bushings in the bars which may transmit some additional vibes up them too, but then again the 575's are heavier which will tend to dampen that a bit. Lots of unknowns in the equation, so the end result won't be known until it's back on the road.

On the SERK, I have the TT, the urethane handlebar riser bushings, and the TT front motor mount, as well as the Velva Stabilizers. The SERK uses 17" wide rear and 18" front, radial tires too. Don't know the impact this wheel tire combo has on geometry. But this SERK is THE best riding FLH I've ever been on! Just ask Don what he thinks. It's my 5th RK, and 6th FLH overall, besides all those I've rented and ridden over the years. So whatever they did with this bike really works well.

Adding the TT, the AK, and the BT's really makes this bike feel like it on rails, while not undermining the ride quality at all. I love the way this bike rides and handles now! And I have no vibration whatsoever, even with the Performance FatCats!

Hoist!