Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

For a aggressive fluid we use belray . Works great no mixing and easy to find.  I have in the past used the aft and added lube. ATF is great for a clutch but lacks lucubration property's. ( spelling on that might have it wrong but you get the idea)

Use of a engine oil for low power units works fine or the lube but its a clutch so a fluid that is syn or thick can create some issues with a clutch.  Its all based on your build.  We have in fact had some issues with syn oil in general in the primary . for high power bikes. Even with beefier clutch set ups. Go back to a thinner fluid with less friction modifiers in it and you have less work to do getting the clutch to hold.

I have tried just about everything on the market. Lucas works well also but not as well as the belray. SO we that is the go to fluid for us at this point on everything.

Just what we see..

[Badger Mike]

I have somewhat of the opposite problem.  I have a well tuned 124 (139/140)in my bike with a Barnett Scorpion clutch and 30T instead of the compensator.  I need to find an oil that will keep this best from slipping (sounds like a screech) when it gets warm.  Thoughts?

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

I have somewhat of the opposite problem.  I have a well tuned 124 (139/140)in my bike with a Barnett Scorpion clutch and 30T instead of the compensator.  I need to find an oil that will keep this best from slipping (sounds like a screech) when it gets warm.  Thoughts?

Ok the sound you hear is from glazed fibers..  If the clutch is still under 1 year I would get in touch with Barnett and ask for  a warranty pack .. However instead of the black carbon I would suggest the red.. I went through the same thing and the red grips the same but smoother engagement .  Now understand that these are just names and not all fibers are made the same .  I would also suggest the belray fluid.. I run that clutch you have ( mine is the complete version with lock up ) and I went through that as well.. Fluid type did not matter but once I went to the red fibers problem solved.. If you have the red fibers you could try to lightly sand the steels and see if that solves the issue.


Red is a iron based item the black is a carbon based .

[Badger Mike]

Thanks, I'll give them a call.  I'm outside of a year, but maybe they'll work with me.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Ask for Chance..   So to be clear red is a iron based black carbon and green Kevlar . Now I spoke with Mike the owner of Barnett about this.. I asked about the difference in friction coefficient, Mike told me that no there is not one is not able to hold any more or less tq , its more so about what goes into the mix and 

[FlaHeatWave]

I have somewhat of the opposite problem.  I have a well tuned 124 (139/140)in my bike with a Barnett Scorpion clutch and 30T instead of the compensator.  I need to find an oil that will keep this best from slipping (sounds like a screech) when it gets warm.  Thoughts?

When does it Screech ( I call it a sqawk)? Starting off in first gear?

[Badger Mike]

It screeches in first gear after the clutch gets warm.  I talked to Barnett yesterday, and they are aware of the issue with the bikes that have a lot of power.  Even though mine is out of warranty, they are sending me an updated pack at no charge!  Fantastic customer service on their end, I would recommend doing business with them anytime

[FlaHeatWave]

It screeches in first gear after the clutch gets warm.  I talked to Barnett yesterday, and they are aware of the issue with the bikes that have a lot of power.  Even though mine is out of warranty, they are sending me an updated pack at no charge!  Fantastic customer service on their end, I would recommend doing business with them anytime

Yea, the updated pack should eliminate most, if not all of the screeching...

Did Barnett tell you what fluid / how much they wanted you to run?

+1 for Barnett customer service

[Badger Mike]

They were very ok with just about anything.  I'm not sure what my mechanic is using.  I would take any recommendations.

[LC110]

32-38 oz. of this primary nectar should be all you need, since HD Formula plus is a straight 50 weight GL-1 mineral oil. 
Why use an oil that is made to keep contaminants in suspension if you don't have a filter to take them out? Maybe I am over analyzing.

[FlaHeatWave]

They were very ok with just about anything.  I'm not sure what my mechanic is using.  I would take any recommendations.

Reason I asked; about a year ago my Bud (Skunk 124HC / DD7 / Scorpion / Solid Sprocket / Hayden Tensioner) was on the speaker with Barnett, trying to get the (exact same) issue resolved. Barnett did not hesitate to send another Pack, and said "a Quart of ATF nothing else", also recommended leaving out the Damper Spring / Seat ... After following the directions to a T, I asked about the Sqweeking 15k mi. later, "most all of it's gone, 'still does it once in a great while"...

Since Barnett is changing their recommendations to "just about anything" from "1 Qt of ATF" I was just curious?? Maybe Barnett has done some design / material changes??

I'm a fan of the Formula+, but I'm running a Comp, and a different set-up...

IMHO the real bogie with the Scorpion is the CVO Hydraulic Clutch, lack of adjustment, not the (higher) HP/TQ... the cable clutch folks don't talk about the sqweek much??

Keep us Posted

PS YorktownCVO, sorry about getting away from your OP...   The GM at my Dealer (a real hands on type guy, not your typical GM) when asked several years ago; " I like Synthetic in the Motor and Transmission, not in the Primary"