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[FLTRCVO]

2009 FLTRSE With clutch lever grasped as far as it will go, I can hear the clutch grasping, thus, a minute pull while at stop lights. Has anyone encountered this issue?

Can a hydraulic clutch be adjusted, to eliminate the drag?

[RickC]

Same here. I've got 4900 miles on and it's always had a little bit of "pull" even with the clutch completely disengaged.

I haven't considered it to be a problem since my two previous Harley touring bikes (both FLTR's) did the same thing even with a non-hydraulic clutch.

[FLTRCVO]

Same here. I've got 4900 miles on and it's always had a little bit of "pull" even with the clutch completely disengaged.

I understand, with the cable system I could ajust it out. However, my 2007 FLHRSE does actually disengage when I squeeze the lever. I do not believe the clutch is in disengage mode when it is pulling.

I haven't considered it to be a problem since my two previous Harley touring bikes (both FLTR's) did the same thing even with a non-hydraulic clutch.

[grc]

2009 FLTRSE With clutch lever grasped as far as it will go, I can hear the clutch grasping, thus, a minute pull while at stop lights. Has anyone encountered this issue?

Can a hydraulic clutch be adjusted, to eliminate the drag?

There is no adjustment per se on the hydraulics, but it is very important to get all the air bled from the system.  Any air will reduce the amount of travel at the clutch.  Air can get trapped at the banjo fitting for the line at the master cylinder, and of course at the actuator (right side trans cover).  The actuator has a bleeder fitting just like your brakes, the banjo fitting at the master cylinder has to be carefully loosened to bleed air at that point.  Very carefully, since the fluid will do bad and permanent things to paint.

There is a specification for how much travel you should get at the clutch release pushrod when the clutch lever is pulled all the way to the grip.  Have the dealer check it.  Air in the system would reduce that travel, but internal problems with either the master cylinder or the actuator could also cause reduced travel. 

Another thing that will cause drag is out-of-flat clutch disks and plates, commonly called warped plates.  Like most things Harley, you will find that they allow a large tolerance for out-of-flat plates. 

Last but not least, what fluid are you running in the primary, and is the level proper?  A high fluid level will cause clutch drag; the fluid should only barely touch the bottom edge of the clutch spring.  If you're running SYN3 in the primary, try something else.  Formula + from Harley, Redline MTL, even automatic trans fluid.

My clutch wouldn't release when new, causing heavy drag when idling in gear and lousy shifting.  I found air trapped in the line at the master cylinder and in the actuator, and once I bled both areas I saw immediate improvement (but still not as good as it should have been).  Then I noticed gradual improvement over the next few thousand miles as the "high spots" wore off the clutch plates.  The clutch still doesn't release completely when cold, but at least now it's OK once it's warmed up.

Jerry

[FLTRCVO]

There is no adjustment per se on the hydraulics, but it is very important to get all the air bled from the system.  Any air will reduce the amount of travel at the clutch.  Air can get trapped at the banjo fitting for the line at the master cylinder, and of course at the actuator (right side trans cover).  The actuator has a bleeder fitting just like your brakes, the banjo fitting at the master cylinder has to be carefully loosened to bleed air at that point.  Very carefully, since the fluid will do bad and permanent things to paint.

There is a specification for how much travel you should get at the clutch release pushrod when the clutch lever is pulled all the way to the grip.  Have the dealer check it.  Air in the system would reduce that travel, but internal problems with either the master cylinder or the actuator could also cause reduced travel. 

Another thing that will cause drag is out-of-flat clutch disks and plates, commonly called warped plates.  Like most things Harley, you will find that they allow a large tolerance for out-of-flat plates. 

Last but not least, what fluid are you running in the primary, and is the level proper?  A high fluid level will cause clutch drag; the fluid should only barely touch the bottom edge of the clutch spring.  If you're running SYN3 in the primary, try something else.  Formula + from Harley, Redline MTL, even automatic trans fluid.

My clutch wouldn't release when new, causing heavy drag when idling in gear and lousy shifting.  I found air trapped in the line at the master cylinder and in the actuator, and once I bled both areas I saw immediate improvement (but still not as good as it should have been).  Then I noticed gradual improvement over the next few thousand miles as the "high spots" wore off the clutch plates.  The clutch still doesn't release completely when cold, but at least now it's OK once it's warmed up.

Jerry

The bike is going in for it's 1000 mile service. They have been informed of the clutch issue, I wanted info regarding the possible adjustments for a hydraulic clutch since the service departments answer was the clutch had no adjustments and of course my answer minus the profanity was "for $31000 plus someone better learn to afjust besides me". The bike will be picked up today at 3PM PST.

[grc]

The bike is going in for it's 1000 mile service. They have been informed of the clutch issue, I wanted info regarding the possible adjustments for a hydraulic clutch since the service departments answer was the clutch had no adjustments and of course my answer minus the profanity was "for $31000 plus someone better learn to afjust besides me". The bike will be picked up today at 3PM PST.

If they tell you everything checked out peachy, ask them what they got when they measured the release plate axial movement.  I'll bet they get a deer in the headlights look on their face, then change the subject.  FYI, the spec is .065" minimum when the lever is pulled to the grip.

If the axial movement is in spec, then you will probably find the same thing I and many others have.  The drag will get better with more miles as the high spots wear off on the plates (shouldn't be necessary if the plates were truly flat, but we're talking about Harley here).  And since you're just going in for the 1000 mile checkup, that answers the question about what fluid you're using.  If they use SYN3 for the service, you might want to try something better.

Jerry

[Guilty]

I had that problem and took it to my dealer and they adjusted the clutch. Problem resolved.

[grc]

I had that problem and took it to my dealer and they adjusted the clutch. Problem resolved.

What model bike, what type of clutch mechanism (hydraulic or mechanical), what did they "adjust"? 

Jerry

[08cvoultra649]

my 2008 ultra cvois on it's way to the dealer as I type this message , to have the clutch replaced under warranty. the dealer toldme there was sum issues and will let me know when I go to the dealers tomorrow .

[Twolanerider]

Not likely an issue for anyone that still has stock grips and spoons.  But if anyone has changed either (or both) they're also a consideration for clutch release.  

Some spoon's have an angle that brings their point of closest contact to the grip closer.  Some spoons have leather braid that increases their thickness.  Some grips are larger OD than common OE pieces (ISO and SACs are examples, especially SAC).  Lose a little too much travel to a spoon or to a fatter grip and the hydraulic clutch won't have enough to pull to fully release anymore.

[mjb765]

I get a little drag and hard to find neutral with the motor running. It's a 10 SESG with about 200 miles on it. I was hoping it would wear in a bit. I'm going to Red Line at the 1000 mi svc which I will do myself.