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[bbowler]

   I just got my cvo sg 2010 and i do love it, however I just had them take it to the shop because it was very tight in down shifting from 3-2, 2-1. Way beyond being "new" tight. I also with the clutch pulled all the way in had the bike creep on me and no matter what it kept pilling till I killed it, neutral was almost impossible to get into unless i was rolling.  I figure there might be air in the hydraulic clutch line or resevoir, who knows. Anyone else have any clutch issues?

 

[sportygordy]

   I just got my cvo sg 2010 and i do love it, however I just had them take it to the shop because it was very tight in down shifting from 3-2, 2-1. Way beyond being "new" tight. I also with the clutch pulled all the way in had the bike creep on me and no matter what it kept pilling till I killed it, neutral was almost impossible to get into unless i was rolling.  I figure there might be air in the hydraulic clutch line or resevoir, who knows. Anyone else have any clutch issues?

 

You needs some clutch adjustments. How much gap do you have between the back clutch level handle and clutch level housing when not engaged.

[hondo]

Yes from what I see this is a very common problem on these bikes, my cvosg did the same thing and I also dropped a line on this forum, bleed the clutch which made things work better could actualy find N on about 3 tries, Then with feedback from the great minds on this forum I was convinced into changing the trans fluid to Spectro vtwin trans 75-140 and let me tell you,
what a difference, much easier shifting and a lot quieter. (since then I also changed the crankcase to Royal Purple syn 20-50 another big improvment)
You will find that as you put some miles on your new bike most of the rattles and clunks etc seem to work themselves out, I have 900 miles now and every time I ride, it seems more enjoyable.  Maybe the MoCo should break these in for us! it would settle a few nerves...
Oh ya, I had to have my battery changed under warr already, so don't be surprised!

[mjb765]

Had the same issues and changed to Redline Shockproof in the trans and Redline vtwin primary fluid and the problems went away!!! Good Stuff

[grc]

If the clutch is dragging enough to affect shifting and force you to kill the engine when stopping in gear, that's not going to be fixed by a change of trans fluid.  You're on the right track with the air in the line comment, that's the first thing to check and it has been a fairly common issue since H-D started installing hydraulic clutches.  There have also been instances of defective actuators (the part under the trans side cover) that wouldn't provide full travel of the clutch release rod, but those are relatively rare.  If a thorough bleeding of the system doesn't help, the dealer needs to measure the travel of the release rod against the specification.

Jerry

[hd-dude]

Ditto what Jerry said

[mjb765]

If the clutch is dragging enough to affect shifting and force you to kill the engine when stopping in gear, that's not going to be fixed by a change of trans fluid.  You're on the right track with the air in the line comment, that's the first thing to check and it has been a fairly common issue since H-D started installing hydraulic clutches.  There have also been instances of defective actuators (the part under the trans side cover) that wouldn't provide full travel of the clutch release rod, but those are relatively rare.  If a thorough bleeding of the system doesn't help, the dealer needs to measure the travel of the release rod against the specification.

Jerry

Just mentioning what had happend to me. If he has extreme symptoms, then I agree, a fluid change will not fix it. With mine the clutch was dragging a bit and it was tough to find neutral and the switch in fluids took care of that.

[Ultra2010]

My  new (300 miles) CUSE is also VERY hard to hit neutral. See my post "Transmission Whine in 1st Gear" in this section.  Also she "clunks" like I've never seen or heard before when going into first from neutral.  Dealer pulling the transmission next Wednesday......

[grc]

My  new (300 miles) CUSE is also VERY hard to hit neutral. See my post "Transmission Whine in 1st Gear" in this section.  Also she "clunks" like I've never seen or heard before when going into first from neutral.  Dealer pulling the transmission next Wednesday......

Try this and see if your neutral to first clunk gets better.  Pull in the clutch fully, quickly "blip" the throttle to 2000-2500 and immediately let it return to idle, wait at least 5 seconds with the clutch still held in and then try to engage first gear.  This will eliminate the clunk on most bikes I've tried it on, and it's a good indication of how much the Harley clutch drags.  When you hold the clutch lever in and quickly rev the engine, it helps break the clutch plates loose.  The input shaft stops spinning (the 5 seconds is to let the shaft and gears slow down or come to a stop), and now there is no clunk.  In fact, with the gears sitting still you might find it hard to engage first until you start to release the clutch.

Of course, the above "solution" isn't really a solution, it just helps show where the problem is really coming from.  I use that technique on the first shift into first on a cold start, but once the bike is warmed up it isn't necessary.  Until your clutch plates get worn in a bit, you may find the clunk will even be there when warmed up.  Assuming no air in the system or other problem with the hydraulics, you should see improved shifting as the clutch plates wear in.

Jerry

[bbowler]

     Thanks all. I called the dealer and they said first thing was the clutch spring needed to be replaced. Once they fix that he will test it and see if all is well or if it is something more serious. I'll keep ya posted.

[motor1]

        Logged on tonight to start a thread regarding THE EXACT SAME CLUTCH ISSUE, actuator was changed, due to a leak, and that is when my troubles began. It is so bad I have to shut bike off at traffic lights to stop it from walking thru the intersection. It has been bleed 5 times by the dealer, and once by an independant shop; it will be ok for a day or two and presto the problem returns.

[JDOFLHRIDER]

Well on my 07 the clutch was slipping ,and when I looked for a better one Harleys best wasn't rated for the tq our bikes make after a few improvements.My engine guy that races said he has used energy one ,I installed theirs with a heavy spring and loved that clutch.The tech at energy one said to use type f,b+m trickshift,or primary oils except syn3 they have had problems for the syn3.                        http://energyoneclutches.com/                  good luck jdo

[Hoist!]

This is what I use now after the stock one wore out. The Rivera Pro Clutch is now made for hydraulic actuator on '07's and up. Rivera says to use ATF in the primary with this clutch.

Hoist!

[guppytrash]

Check the fluid level in your clutch reservoir.  My buddy had the same problem with his 09 USE4, clutch would not release and bike would creep forward.
In his case there was not enough fluid to fully disengage the clutch.

[Rooster]

I used the Rivera clutch in mine with the Jim's 131. It shifts smoother than stock and feels better. The folks at Rivera say to use ATF and less than factory because their plates are bigger and they also said running synthetic with thier clutch may slip at 90 and above. Now if I could just get the comp assembly and bearings to last maybe I could keep the bike out of the shop.