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[grc]

        Logged on tonight to start a thread regarding THE EXACT SAME CLUTCH ISSUE, actuator was changed, due to a leak, and that is when my troubles began. It is so bad I have to shut bike off at traffic lights to stop it from walking thru the intersection. It has been bleed 5 times by the dealer, and once by an independant shop; it will be ok for a day or two and presto the problem returns.

Until someone finds and fixes the leak, the problem will continue to return.  It shouldn't be that tough, there are only 3 basic components to verify:  master cylinder, lines and fittings, slave cylinder (actuator).  If air is repeatedly getting into the system, there has to be a leak.  Best bet, go back to where the problem started (actuator). 

Jerry

[bbowler]

    The dealer called the harley service techs to see if there were more issues. They are replacing the spring and re-filled and bled the resevoir. Lets hope this does it, riding it once in 3 weeks is killing me.

[bbowler]

    Well, I am getting the bike back tomorrow. The problem as told to me by the mech and to him by the MoCo is that they are thinking that the springs in the 2010 cvos tend to be too stiff and too strong for the clutch to fully disengage. He replaced it with a spring that is 1 step down and says the problem is solved now. If I get any other issues with it i'll give them a bit of hell.

[WFP]

Noticed this happening on my new SESG last night...I am at about 800 miles.

Creeping when I returned to the garage
Stalled at a light upon take-off

It has been "close" since delivery, with the tranny engaging right as the clutch lever lifts away from the grip but now it has gotten worse.  It was a cold ride to dinner last night, in the low to mid 40's and maybe that affected the feel for me.

Will have it worked on as part of the 1K service.

/Bill

[grc]

    Well, I am getting the bike back tomorrow. The problem as told to me by the mech and to him by the MoCo is that they are thinking that the springs in the 2010 cvos tend to be too stiff and too strong for the clutch to fully disengage. He replaced it with a spring that is 1 step down and says the problem is solved now. If I get any other issues with it i'll give them a bit of hell.

This explanation doesn't make sense to me. Since hydraulic fluid doesn't compress, if the clutch lever is pulled to the grip and there is no air in the system, the release rod should travel the normal amount no matter if there is a light spring or a heavy spring.  If the spring was "too stiff", you would feel extra effort to pull the lever but the amount of travel should remain the same.

If anyone has a parts manual for the 2010 CVO it would be interesting to see what part number they are using for the clutch spring, and to also see if it is different from previous year CVO's.  The SE catalog doesn't list a new 2010 only SE spring.  IF the 2010 spring is different (and stiffer) than the previous spring, I would question why all the other 2010 CVO's don't have this same problem.    

I would want to know a lot more before I would accept having a dealer install a lower rated clutch spring.  The CVO's get a higher rated spring for a good reason, to reduce slippage and premature wear due to the higher torque of the CVO engine.

Jerry 

[sadunbar]

This explanation doesn't make sense to me. Since hydraulic fluid doesn't compress, if the clutch lever is pulled to the grip and there is no air in the system, the release rod should travel the normal amount no matter if there is a light spring or a heavy spring.  If the spring was "too stiff", you would feel extra effort to pull the lever but the amount of travel should remain the same.

If anyone has a parts manual for the 2010 CVO it would be interesting to see what part number they are using for the clutch spring, and to also see if it is different from previous year CVO's.  The SE catalog doesn't list a new 2010 only SE spring.  IF the 2010 spring is different (and stiffer) than the previous spring, I would question why all the other 2010 CVO's don't have this same problem.    

I would want to know a lot more before I would accept having a dealer install a lower rated clutch spring.  The CVO's get a higher rated spring for a good reason, to reduce slippage and premature wear due to the higher torque of the CVO engine.

Jerry 

Of course you are right, Jerry.  The explanation makes no sense what-so-ever...  The spring stiffness has no effect on the travel distance....  Unless it is magic hydraulic fluid - or magic clutch springs....

[bbowler]

     well, i thought of all that myself. I will put it through the paces and if I get any slippage anytime at all i'll be spouting off again. I dont understand it all but the dealer has only done right by me until now so I'll give the benefit of the doubt for now.

[h82lose]

had same problem with green 05 seeg and took to independent shop and was told they had to level and raise bars. told them they were NUTS,but guess what,no more clutch issues. go figure that out. shop is owned and operated by ex HD service manager. he told me when HARLEY told him that 4 years ago that he laughed and told them BS,but it worked so go figure.

[bbowler]

     Well I got it back and so far no issues.  It is noticibly a softer grab that the original spring but i guess i can get okay with that as long as no slippage. I will watch very close and if i feel anything i'll be on them again to better it.

[tattoo]

we have had a few problems with the "creeping" and every time we ended up replacing the Slave cylinder. so far it cured the problems , but Im sure now that I posted this they will all be back this week with the same problem.

[bbowler]

    I rode it another 200 miles and so far i say its good. But for sure you better have the clutch stck to your grip all the way in because if its a 1/16 of an inch out it will start to grab. I kinda liked the slight bit of play in the cable clutches better.

[hd-dude]

The issue here is air in the hydraulic clutch system. Bleed it properly and the issues will be resolved unless there is an issue with the master or slave cylinder, which is unlikely.

[WFP]

The issue here is air in the hydraulic clutch system. Bleed it properly and the issues will be resolved unless there is an issue with the master or slave cylinder, which is unlikely.

Thanks Jim, I Bled mine at the actuator and it did improve the issue and all creep stopped.  I have to admit, my 1/4" wrench could not turn the valve so I had to use a socket after removing the hose...and then loosened it too far and it started to release fluid before I was ready.  Doh!

/Bill