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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: Boatman on June 06, 2017, 08:46:40 AM
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17,500 miles on 2014 Limited.. Was on a group ride with a OhioDave and a few friends last week. Check engine light came on as well as red overheat temperature light.. Bike ran fine. Rode about 10 miles home after it happened.
Was full of coolant. Removed water pump cover, turned ignition on, rolled throttle half way and held it and both cooling fans and water pump ran as they should. Pulled P1019 from odometer. Read thru electric diagnosis manual and said to replace coolant temperature sensor. Replaced sensor in LH lower radiator and all is well..
May be able to help someone. Should not have gone bad in 3 years 17,500 miles but could have been water pump. Sensor was $25.00.. FWIW
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Good info there Bob. Thank You.
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Hi,
I just had this same problem while on a trip riding in the Smokies. My problem turned out to be chafing ET sensor wire on an upper cooling hose under the tank. I posted a picture showing more chafing wires under the tank. My post is under CVO Limited, chafing wires.
Rick
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I replaced Lucille's coolant pump last Aug at Sioux Falls after similar issues. It's a common problem which I understand may/did occur intermittently because of a vacuum lock or shot/damaged sensor or the pump itself. Mine was the pump. Thanks
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Tom
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5-18 update, 24,600 miles
Started getting P1019 code again in bike week in Daytona in March. Ordered new w/pump and thermostat from Surdyke. Hope this fixes it and not wasting money on replacing good parts. Not a hard install for water pump and thermostat replacement.
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Got parts number you can share?
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26600012 water pump
2670001A thermostat
32700028 coolant temperature sensor
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Thank You Bob for the info and the part numbers!!
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Great info thanks!
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Where is the coolant sensor? I got the same problem today. 4200 miles on a 14 CVO.
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Where is the coolant sensor? I got the same problem today. 4200 miles on a 14 CVO.
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See attached diagram >
Jerry
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Appreciated!!!! Now is happy hunting the true problem. I am pulling the water pump cover off to see if the pump is spinning or not. Coolant temp was 80f and ET was 273f. So a sensor is bad or pump is not working.
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Roll throttle to 1/2 , turn ignition on, and both fans and pump should come on. If the pump is pumping both radiators and hoses should feel warm or hot at operating temperature. If radiators are cold pump could be running but not pumping. For me the water pump was easier to replace than sensor. This pump is made by Bosch I believe and they have pumps that look like this one but are plumbed different. They pump coolant to turbos or heaters and the like on cars and are less than $100. 😩
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I think I will take the pump apart to see if it spins first and clean it then put it back. I done the test with ignition on and I felt the vibration from the pump but I was not sure it was working or not. I wish I was in the states right now so I could gone to HD and get my parts to fix it. Now I have to wait on the German shop on Monday or mail order them from the states.
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Check out this Bosch pump. Looks amazingly similar except for the electrical plug location. $67 from Amazon, compared to $400+ from HD:
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-392020024-Electric-Water-Pump/dp/B001CO17V4 (https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-392020024-Electric-Water-Pump/dp/B001CO17V4)
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The magnet cracked on the inside and no way to repair this one. Got a new one on the way.
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I know that sucks. Gald you found the problem. How long does it take for you get parts?
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Hope this week. Takes 5-7 days from the states to Germany.
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Well that isn't as bad as I thought it may be. Hopefully in less time!
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Hello all have a `15 S.E.S.G. with similar symptoms check engine light on and the temp. light is on on the right. Dumb question here how can you tell, if the water pump is running cooling fans run as described in this post, but cannot be sure pump is running or not b/c of the fan noise.
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Remove the chrome cover and put your hand on the pump and you can feel the pump running. Hope this helps.
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Depending on what actually failed (pump motor or the impeller drive), just feeling for motor vibration may not tell you what you need to know. You need to verify that coolant is actually flowing.
Jerry
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Depending on what actually failed (pump motor or the impeller drive), just feeling for motor vibration may not tell you what you need to know. You need to verify that coolant is actually flowing.
Jerry
Yes as Jerry stated it will tell you if running but not pumping. I took old one a part but saw nothing wrong but doing ok now since replacing. Knock wood. Sad thing is I’ll be doing again as I still have the old style pump. Sumbitches wouldnt release new pump til old stock was depleted. Same thing with compensators a few year ago. :soapbox:
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Does anyone know how to find a wiring schematic for the pump and fans online I do not have a service manual. Bought a new temp switch installed, pulled water pump to visually test it`s operation, fans and pump ran for a second w/ switch on and throttle rolled open then stopped and neither fan(s) or pump works don`t you love a mystery. Any input appreciated i`m at a lost.
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See if the attachment helps.
Jerry
I forgot to mark the temp sensor - it's called the ECT and it's shown next to the left cooling fan.
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Thank you Jerry.
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Figured some things out on my water pump debacle yesterday after removing pump, it and fans ran for only a second. Discovered blown fan fuse tried one more fuse and immediate blew again when turning on switch-opening throttle attempting to turn fans on, I disconnected pump wire and eliminated the dead short caused by the pump.
Had the same code others mentioned here P1019 and P1691 & 1693 I induced when disconnecting fans testing. How do you clear the trouble codes?
$377.00 later have a new updated water pump kit hope it is a fairly straight forward installation. Thank you guys for all of your input here.
Donnie
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Not at all hard to install completed changing my last week
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Not at all hard to install completed changing my last week
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Dose the lower faring needs to come off?
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Yes both lowers have to come off because you have to change the hoses that connect to the bottom of both left and right radiators.
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Finished the install with the updated water pump kit yesterday also replaced the coolant temperature sensor for an additional preventive measure Circle Racer you right was not too bad of job.
Most time consuming part was routing the hoses and had a bit of trouble bleeding the air from the cooling system, cleared the trouble codes and put 70 miles on it with no further issues. Thank you again for all of the help I received here!
Donnie
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I've had this problem of the ECL Light and Temp display light come up.
Is it safe to ride the bike to my workshop - about 80kms/50mi?
Or should I put it on a trailer?
Thanks in advance
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Probably everyone will give you a different answer but I would ride it.