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CVO Social => Off Topic => Topic started by: Dan_Lockwood on August 22, 2021, 02:21:21 PM
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I'm going to be building a new Shouse/Shome in Michigan and will have 14' sidewalls. I'll have a shop about 40'x40' and want a hoist for many reasons. Although the majority of my lifting will be 3,500# or less, I will on occasion want to lift my new F-350 DRW for normal maintenance and cleaning etc. Ford lists my truck at 8,133# curb weight.
I'm looking at a TRIUMPH NTO-9A 9000Lbs 2-post. It of course is a 9k# max lift hoist. It also has a clear floor design with the crossover bar/hoses etc on top with a safety lift bar. I can also get an extension to raise the cross bar with all of the inner stuff for more cab height clearance, but not sure yet if I'll need it. The hoist has a lift of 72". It also comes with all the pad extensions for trucks. If I use the appropriate extensions on pads, I could have more than enough standing height under the truck. I'm 5'-14" tall. So having the full lift on extensions would be great.
Who has hoists in their work shops and what do you have? I'm familiar with 4-post hoists and I'm sure I could find one to fit the DRW's, but I really like to "hang" the vehicle versus lift with the tires.
I know a 10k# would be more than enough, but the price does jump up a bit for the added capacity. Just wondering about the 9k# capacity versus my truck weight of 8,133#.
Can anyone shed some light on my thoughts and or give me real lift experience with your hoist?
Thanks in advance!
Dan
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5'-14" tall....is that like 6'-2"? Forgive me I'm Canadian and have gotten used to the Metric System.
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5'-14" tall....is that like 6'-2"? Forgive me I'm Canadian and have gotten used to the Metric System.
LOL!!! I got a chuckle out of that too.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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I just retired from being a GM dealership tech. If you have any thoughts of lifting a 3/4 to 1 ton vehicle I would not go any less than a 10,000 lb lift.
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I have 4, 9,000 Ammco lifts 1 with the 36 inch extension, they lift 90 % of the trucks we work on, some of the service trucks loaded with equipment can lift only a couple feet off the ground. So spend the extra and get the 10,000 lb hoist.
I did have to prep the floor, it was only 3 inches thick, cutting out a section 24 x 36 x 15 inches deep for each post.
Than pounded rebar 15 inches under the existing floor, 2 on each end ,3 on each side.
Then a simular pattern a couple inches up from the 5/8 minus rock in bottom of the holes, followed by rebar tied to the previous bars. Filled the holes with 3500 psi rated concrete.
After a couple days set up time I assembled the hoist, squared it the bay door drilled holes and used 8 inch anchors. Don't remember, I think they are 5/8 ".
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LOL!!! I got a chuckle out of that too.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Same here. ;D
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Yes guys, I was being a butt hole with the 5'-14" bit... :) I'm 6'-2"!
I will have to lift my Ford F-350 CC DRW 6.7L diesel at some point and it will weigh in around 8,500#, so a 10k# will have to be sourced at the time we get the footings in and cured.
Now do I get symmetrical or asymmetrical 2-post hoist. Symmetrical is same length of arms front and rear. Asymmetrical has shorter arms in front and longer arms in the rear. They say the asymmetrical allows for a better door opening angle.
Then they also make the asymmetrical in an rotated post configuration where the posts are rotated 45 degrees to the rear allowing both arms to fold to the rear for a drive through configuration. Of course all the lifts are drive through, but the rotated posts seem to give a bit more drive through clearance. I know I want the clear floor model with the cables and hydraulic lines on the top in a cross pan. This gives NO plate on the floor between the post so a tool box or jack can roll freely the full distance front to rear.
These last few questions will be best suited for a professional user of lifts, like Finster.
I'm money conscience, but will not buy cheap just to save money.
Thanks again for the replies all. :)
Dan
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Dan, I have worked with all the lifts that you mentioned. Personally I would go with the 45 degree asymmetrical. As you noted you will have better door access. With both arms folding rearward the area in front of the lift is less cluttered for other uses. Keep in mind with a heavy, long vehicle like an F350 it will look like the back is sagging even when set correctly. This is kind of disconcerting till you get used to it. Make sure you get the proper adapters to ensure the feet do not slip off the frame. I don't know about Ford but GM uses a rust preventative on the frame that is quite slippery. I am sure there are other techs on the forum. I encourage them to give their point of view as well. One size does not fit all.
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Dan, I have worked with all the lifts that you mentioned. Personally I would go with the 45 degree asymmetrical. As you noted you will have better door access. With both arms folding rearward the area in front of the lift is less cluttered for other uses. Keep in mind with a heavy, long vehicle like an F350 it will look like the back is sagging even when set correctly. This is kind of disconcerting till you get used to it. Make sure you get the proper adapters to ensure the feet do not slip off the frame. I don't know about Ford but GM uses a rust preventative on the frame that is quite slippery. I am sure there are other techs on the forum. I encourage them to give their point of view as well. One size does not fit all.
Finster, thanks!
I've seen the "U" shaped cradle pads that seem to be the best for catching over the side of the frame rails with a small rubber pad in the center.
Trying to get my head around the lifting point of my F-350 CC, DRW, 8' box truck. If I go to the scales and weigh the truck and get the true weight of front/rear axles, I can then find the center point of the truck front/rear. Once I know the center of weight between the front/rear axles, where exactly does that fall on the arms? Asymmetrical arms are shorter in front than the rear arms, usually double extension on the front and triple extension on the rears.
I'm not sure I'll fine the asymmetrical 45 degree rotation of the posts in my price range, but I'm sure to find the standard squared asymmetrical hoist in my range. I'll look for the 45 degree first and go down from that... :)
I appreciate your help and experience sharing!
Dan
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If you ever saw a truck fall off of a two post hoist you would know why I have a 15,000 lb 4 post with 2 rolling jacks for working corners. Can't beat it for safety.
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I have 4, 9,000 Ammco lifts 1 with the 36 inch extension, they lift 90 % of the trucks we work on, some of the service trucks loaded with equipment can lift only a couple feet off the ground. So spend the extra and get the 10,000 lb hoist.
I did have to prep the floor, it was only 3 inches thick, cutting out a section 24 x 36 x 15 inches deep for each post.
Than pounded rebar 15 inches under the existing floor, 2 on each end ,3 on each side.
Then a simular pattern a couple inches up from the 5/8 minus rock in bottom of the holes, followed by rebar tied to the previous bars. Filled the holes with 3500 psi rated concrete.
After a couple days set up time I assembled the hoist, squared it the bay door drilled holes and used 8 inch anchors. Don't remember, I think they are 5/8 ".
Joel,
I'm having my in floor hot water heat tubes run outside of a 4' dia circle where each of the columns will be mounted to the floor. I'm also having the floor 15' wide and 4' long poured at 6" deep for the concrete. I've not seen a hoist in my poundage range that requires more than 6", many just 4" will work. Hopefully there will not need to be any floor cuts near my columns. ASEDeals on the east coast seems to have the best prices on multiple brands of lifts. He recommended that I stay at least 8" away from any of my in floor hot water tubes.
There are SO many choices out there, but ALI certified and around $4,000 is my goal. I've looked hard at both the Forward lifts, I-10 and the F-10 lift. Both certified and one is asymmetrical and the other is symmetrical. I talked with a few mechanics at the dealership I used to be service manager at back in the early 80's and they all said symmetrical for lifting larger trucks like my F-350 DRW diesel. So I think I'll go symmetrical and it will still work on my other application.
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Heated flooring sounds good. I recommend taking pictures with measurements for future references.
I believe I porred 3500 psi rated concrete than drilled the holes for the anchors.
Nothing has tipped over yet, but after a week or so after install 1 equalizer cable pulled out of the cable end, further inspection indicated the cable was only in about 1/2 inch when crimped.
Symmetrical is the right choice for long body / frame vehicle.
Mine are asymmetrical 9000 lb capacity and I should have gotten 1 12,000 lb cause some service vans only get a few feet off the ground. But we get er done still.
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Dan, did you pick a lift yet? Did you ever take your 350 over the scales?
When I had the 350 and had it loaded with the hitch, 105 gallons of fuel, toolbox and 2 people etc I was over 11K
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Just a suggestion if you use anchors, use an epoxy in anchor. You will be better off long term
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Sorry for the very late reply to all the great comments.
The Shouse is about completed and I have ordered a Tuxedo iDeal 10k# asymmetrical lift. It should be here in August some time. It's an ALI certified lift and comes with their anchor bolts.
I have 2" of foam board on the complete floor grade, then the hot water radiant floor tubing is stapled to that and then 4" of 3,000 psi concrete over that. At the two areas for the columns to be bolted to the floor, I had them cut out the foam in two 4' squares. I can place the columns in the center of those and I will drill all the way through the 6" of concrete so "if ever" I have an issue, I can drive an anchor through and try another one. The hot water tubes stay outside the 4' square area as well as the re-rod in the floor.
As it turns out, the workshop ceiling is 13' on the nosy! 8' walls of 1/2" CDX plywood vertical and then 5' of white metal above that. The ceiling is also white metal.
Still don't have a file server so pictures are not as easy as they used to be.
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Another
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Inside workshop. The two "offices" are the mechanical room, half bath and my office on the left and the right office is Linda's WHINE CELLAR... :)
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Standing back by the mechanical room looking forward. The doors are all 10'x10' R-19 doors.
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Commercial grade door openers. The fans are 96" aluminum blades and put out 16,721 cfm. They're NOT Big Ass Fans, but from Menards for $249.95 each.
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Dan if you are planning on picking up 3/4 ton dually very often, I would really rethink that 10K lift and go at least 12K. I had a 10K at work that really struggled with some and just plain would not lift others. Shop looks great. I'm envious. I will have to look into one of those fans for my pole barn.
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Dan if you are planning on picking up 3/4 ton dually very often, I would really rethink that 10K lift and go at least 12K. I had a 10K at work that really struggled with some and just plain would not lift others. Shop looks great. I'm envious. I will have to look into one of those fans for my pole barn.
Just for minor service and tire rotation etc. I will have the screw up jack stands and will use them, one in front and one in the rear when the truck is on the hoist. Probably not more than 3 or 4 times a year. Most will be hot rods or Jeeps, much lighter, 5k# or less probably.
Thanks!
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Wow, very nice.
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That's a sweet setup !!!
Dante
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Dan that looks great. Kathy says hi and hopes you and Linda are doing good. And I must say I am sooooooooooooooo jealous :2vrolijk_08:
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We finally listed our house in MO. It was sold in two days for $15k over asking!!! :)
They said they would work with us on the closing, but wanted the 31st. We told them September 12th would be better are our Shouse in MI will not be move in ready by the 31st. They got back to us and said that if we paid their $99/day interest on the extended closing date, they would. We offered to split it, but they said NO. So much for working with us on the closing date.
Trying to just get a sealer on my workshop and garage approach before we start storing stuff in the workshop. Not going to do any epoxy/urethane etc, just a good sealer and live with it. It's a workshop, not a show place... :)
As for the lift, 99% will be Jeeps/hot rods much less in weight, around 4k# or less. I'll be very careful on my F-350 when I lift it.
Thanks for the input/comments.
Have a great weekend.
Kevin, Linda says hey!