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[Robert-Head]

I recently replaced my stock lifters and push rods with S&S lifters and quickee adjustable push rods at 24thou miles as one lifter was knackered. Apart from that noisy lifter the motor was quiet.

After replacing, when starting the engine is quiet, however after about 20miles or so it changes. All i can hear is (what sounds like) noisy tappets. This occurs when warm at idle, under acceleration or de acceleration, its driving me crackers. However, Whilst cruising at anything over 45mph and over the engine is as quiet as a church mouse.

I’ve since pulled everything apart twice and been meticulous with setup however i get the same outcome? 

I’ve followed the S&S data exactly doing the required four full turns of the adjuster nut as per the photo with clear markings to ensure i don’t mess up. Note: The lifters are not fitted with any limiters.

Any assistance would be great fully accepted, thanks in advance from down under in New Zealand. Cheers RH.



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[vtwinjim]

 Sometimes an exhaust leak can sound like a noisy lifter?

[08glide]

what did the cams look like. prtobably would've put new cams in while doing new lifters. just me

[HD Street Performance]

The pandemic has affected quality.  I suggest a new set of Morels. Others on this forum have experienced success using these. They are a slow bleed lifter made in the US.

[Robert-Head]

what did the cams look like. prtobably would've put new cams in while doing new lifters. just me

Cams were in perfect condition, no wear, pitting or blemishes that i could see.


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[TN]

If you are sure of your work I’d do it one more time and make sure the cams are on the base circle for each cylinder and pushrods are centered in lifter cups and rocker arms. Just cause the lifter is new doesn’t mean it isn’t bleeding down. Did you go thru rocker box to remove the OEM pushrods? After adjustment on pushrods they are tight, you verified they can be turned with your fingers after you let them bleed down for some time?

I'm just a DIY'er but have learned the hard way, good luck

[HD Street Performance]

If the lifters were filled with oil and the pushrods equalized very quickly that is the sign of a lifter built with improper internal clearance or other issues. It should take at least 5 minutes to equalize before the pushrod will turn by hand and the motor is safe to turn over. If it were mine and the time had not expired I would be talking to S&S or buy some better lifters. Of course the assumption they are adjusted right. The sign that they are is the noise starts hot not all the time.

[Phaedrus]

What does your oil pressure read at low rpm's?

[HD Street Performance]

A good question!

[Robert-Head]

If you are sure of your work I’d do it one more time and make sure the cams are on the base circle for each cylinder and pushrods are centered in lifter cups and rocker arms. Just cause the lifter is new doesn’t mean it isn’t bleeding down. Did you go thru rocker box to remove the OEM pushrods? After adjustment on pushrods they are tight, you verified they can be turned with your fingers after you let them bleed down for some time?

I'm just a DIY'er but have learned the hard way, good luck

Cheers, i cut the old ones out. Yep let them bleed down, i left each one for about twenty mins and made sure i could twist with fingers. I’m about to do another strip to make sure i have the cam timing right.


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[Robert-Head]

What does your oil pressure read at low rpm's?

When hot, sits at 1.8 to 2.0 bar


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[Phaedrus]

When hot, sits at 1.8 to 2.0 bar


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If you can, you should get a reading at various rpms, to see whether your pump is holding good pressure at low rpm. E.g., get readings from 1,000 to 6,000 at 1k intervals. 

Generally the pumps will put out more pressure at higher engine rpms.  The question would be whether it is holding enough pressure at low rpm to keep the lifters pumped up 

[vtwinjim]

1.8 to 2.0 bar equals 26.1 to 29 psi which I would think is a little high for a hot engine at idle.
Was this pressure at idle or cruise?
What was ambient temperature?

Other thoughts:
Push rods rubbing on tubes, maybe slightly larger OD push rods and/or slightly taller lifters.
Springs rubbing on rocker boxes, but you didn't remove them.
Did you do anything else to bike at the same time?
New push rods not seating the same into rockers. Look at old push rods to see if tips have different wear patterns.
Method used to adjust push rods, I prefer to get cylinder at top dead center of compression stroke to adjust push rods. There is another method I think where you can adjust front and rear at same time.
Check bleed down as mentioned. If you readjust, check to see how long it takes to be able to turn push rods with figure. Check all 4.

[busarealfast]

Anyone in this site sell Morels?

[HD Street Performance]

Yes, in stock ready to ship, $130 free shipping.

[busarealfast]

Pay Pal for the Morels?

[HD Street Performance]

Yes, please PM me.

[phato1]

Check your push rod tubes for witness marks. The S&S quickie pushrods have a larger O.D. than the stock ones and often will hit the tubes making a heck of a racket at idle, for some odd reason under power it's not as noticeable. - probably simply because of all the other road and wind noises - If you find the pushrods are hitting the tubes HD sells their version of the Quickies that have the same O.D. as the stock pushrods  -- beware the adjustment of the HD part is different than S&S due to a different thread pitch.

[Robert-Head]

Godday everyone, apologies for the late reply, usual Xmas break. Went away on bike, ran flawlessly, apart from the noisy tappets.

Oil pressure at idle: cold, 2.2bar, hot 1.4 to 1.6 bar. At highway speed 2.2bar.

I readjusted pushrods to 20 flats, bike runs considerably quieter. No rubbing marks on tubes, no other ofd marks anywhere.

However.
When reassembling i made a real rookie mistake. I forgot to re-attach the throttle
Position sensor and started bike, had idling for a bit, went to lift revs, nothing…… oh bugger. Re-attached throttle position and had to disconnect battery to make the bike recognise the throttle sensor again.

Now, bike runs fine, but go down road and everything electrical stops (as in toral black out) and motor stops.
Dials are all stuck at last position. Turn off ignition, wait anywhere up to ten minutes, bike alarm system beeps, turn on ignition, everything runs, engine starts (no engine light), ride away, same thing happens?

Just to be sure, i’ve checked battery static voltage, 12.7v. Charging rate at idle 13 to 13.4v. Lift revs to 2.5rpm, charging lifts to a steady 13.8v. However voltage meter on bike is erratic.

Has my rookie mistake with the voltage sensor done something? Not sure how to do a full ecu reset?? (2015 ROAD GLIDE)

Photo below shows gauges after everything blacks out.



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[TN]

Godday everyone, apologies for the late reply, usual Xmas break. Went away on bike, ran flawlessly, apart from the noisy tappets.

Oil pressure at idle: cold, 2.2bar, hot 1.4 to 1.6 bar. At highway speed 2.2bar.

I readjusted pushrods to 20 flats, bike runs considerably quieter. No rubbing marks on tubes, no other ofd marks anywhere.

However.
When reassembling i made a real rookie mistake. I forgot to re-attach the throttle
Position sensor and started bike, had idling for a bit, went to lift revs, nothing…… oh bugger. Re-attached throttle position and had to disconnect battery to make the bike recognise the throttle sensor again.

Now, bike runs fine, but go down road and everything electrical stops (as in toral black out) and motor stops.
Dials are all stuck at last position. Turn off ignition, wait anywhere up to ten minutes, bike alarm system beeps, turn on ignition, everything runs, engine starts (no engine light), ride away, same thing happens?

Just to be sure, i’ve checked battery static voltage, 12.7v. Charging rate at idle 13 to 13.4v. Lift revs to 2.5rpm, charging lifts to a steady 13.8v. However voltage meter on bike is erratic.

Has my rookie mistake with the voltage sensor done something? Not sure how to do a full ecu reset?? (2015 ROAD GLIDE)

Photo below shows gauges after everything blacks out.



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I assume you're speaking of electrical cable at throttle body, not sure of the other electrical symptoms but I'd suggest the following, can't hurt.

Need to relearn the throttle plate position, there is a sequence you need to do with run/kill switch. I’d start off with taking negative battery cable off after pulling maxi fuse with switch on so alarm don’t go off, leave it off while you have lunch or something. Attach battery cable, put maxi fuse back in. Then flip kill switch to run for ten seconds, flip to off for ten seconds, do this four times, should sync throttle plate up. My 09 has an ignition switch, I'm assuming your bike does not, only a kill switch on bars, the switch below your infotainment is for fork lock?? yes?

Had to do this once to my 09 and it is similar procedure, I hope this helps.