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[hverbakel]

I finally got around to repairing the annoying drip coming from under the inner primary. I replaced the mainshaft seal and expected that would solve the problem but the leak was still there. So I tore it apart again and after closer inspection I found this hairline crack in the mainshaft bearing. Hoping to get it back together tomorrow and be done with it. Make sure you check these bearings while you have the primary off.

[hverbakel]

a better closeup of the crack

[porthole]

You can eliminate that race and the problems it can cause with a Hi-Torque bearing from Baker

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34600.msg559885#msg559885

[Twolanerider]

a better closeup of the crack

Duane in the post previous described the Baker part as a better piece than the stock bearing and race.  It is a better option for replacement.  It is for a couple of reasons.

The bearing itself may or not be any better.  The failure in the stock pieces was commonly the race as you see on yours.  What they would also occasionally do, however, is rather than splitting as yours has done is that they'd simply walk.  Moving inboard or outboard.  If an engine was built just a bit, and not much, you see the race walk; taking out seals one way or the other.  The Baker bearing eliminates the race entirely.  It's the same OD as the stock bearing and the same ID as the mainshaft so the race is no longer used.  Since the race can sometimes be a pain in the ass to pull, and takes a special tool to pull, it's nice not to have to screw it ever again.

[porthole]

And if one were to go the baker route, test the bearing on the main shaft before installing in the primary.

The first bearing I got missed the "honing to fit" step.

See my post here.
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34600.msg559887#msg559887

[Twolanerider]

And if one were to go the baker route, test the bearing on the main shaft before installing in the primary.

The first bearing I got missed the "honing to fit" step.

See my post here.
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34600.msg559887#msg559887

That would totally suck Duane.  If it was only a wee bit oversized many would miss that.  Nice catch.

[porthole]

Hard to miss catch Don with the first bearing I had.
Although only a few thousands off, it was a few thousands too small, on the main shaft side. So it would not slide over the seat area.

Now the other way you bring up, yeah, missing that could give you all kinds of havoc. And had one done all kinds of work at the same time, may be a tough to diagnose issue.

[hverbakel]

The Baker unit makes a lot of sense. I thought about it after it was all assembled that maybe I should have replaced the bearing at the same time. It looked to be in perfect condition so I didn,t bother replacing it.

[Rooster]

Duane in the post previous described the Baker part as a better piece than the stock bearing and race.  It is a better option for replacement.  It is for a couple of reasons.

The bearing itself may or not be any better.  The failure in the stock pieces was commonly the race as you see on yours.  What they would also occasionally do, however, is rather than splitting as yours has done is that they'd simply walk.  Moving inboard or outboard.  If an engine was built just a bit, and not much, you see the race walk; taking out seals one way or the other.  The Baker bearing eliminates the race entirely.  It's the same OD as the stock bearing and the same ID as the mainshaft so the race is no longer used.  Since the race can sometimes be a pain in the ass to pull, and takes a special tool to pull, it's nice not to have to screw it ever again.

Don is right about the walking as that is what happened to mine and result was taking out the comp assembly. I got the advice from Jim hddude about the Baker bearing and have had no issues since.

[porthole]

The Baker unit makes a lot of sense. I thought about it after it was all assembled that maybe I should have replaced the bearing at the same time. It looked to be in perfect condition so I didn,t bother replacing it.

You replaced the part on the shaft but not the bearing?

Race and bearing together, that would be your best bet, whether the MoCo stuff or the Baker Hi- Torque. Not just one half of the equation.
http://bakerdrivetrain.com/high-torque-bearing-kit

[Twolanerider]

You replaced the part on the shaft but not the bearing?

Missed that when reading earlier.  I didn't even realize they could be purchased separately... 

[hverbakel]

Still not clear on one thing. When I replaced the inner race, it seemed to be really tight fit on the shaft. If the Baker HI torque all in one bearing is used then wouldn't it be difficult to get the inner primary cover back on the shaft after installation of the Baker bearing?

Long story short after tearing it apart for the second time, and replacing the starter seal and mainshaft seal, it still leaks. Before I take it apart again , I was wondering if there is a surefire way to tell if the oil is coming from the primary seal or tranny seal. I now use Amsoil in both the tranny and primary.  Is there a tranny oil that is a different colour or could I add a food colouring to the tranny oil to help track down the origin of the leak?

[Rooster]

You could use Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof in the tranny as a lot of folks on the site do including me. It is pink like pepto and will smooth out that clunking some.

[hverbakel]

THanks , I am hoping the use of a different colour tranny oil will help me source the origin of the leak. Its either coming from the primary or tranny, and ending up on the backside of the inner primary.

[Rooster]

Can't go wrong with the shockproof, Benn using it for years and I use the Redline MTL for the primary light pink in color but clear otherwise.

[Twolanerider]

Is there a tranny oil that is a different colour or could I add a food colouring to the tranny oil to help track down the origin of the leak?

That's an old and easy trick.  Something like ATF or B&M TrickShift in the primary.  Blue or red in color but entirely different thickness and color than any gear oil.  Gear oil of some type in the transmission.  Especially the Redline.  And engine oil up front.  All fluids are good and look totally different from each other.  If you've got a leak you immediately know where it's coming from.

[Twolanerider]

Still not clear on one thing. When I replaced the inner race, it seemed to be really tight fit on the shaft. If the Baker HI torque all in one bearing is used then wouldn't it be difficult to get the inner primary cover back on the shaft after installation of the Baker bearing?

No the fit wouldn't be tight.  The race itself must have a tight press fit on the shaft.  The bearing than rides on the race.  The new Baker bearing eliminates the race and uses a bearing that itself rides on the shaft.  So it only fits as "tight" as the bearing on its mating surface; which isn't tight (no press fit).  It will and is supposed to slide on and off.

[hverbakel]

So I changed the tranny fluid to the redline shockproof which is red in colour, went for a little ride and checked underneath. Same old drip from behind the inner primary and it isn't red so I guess that is good news. I am assuming in isn, t coming from the tranny seal but somewhere behind the inner primary case again. I will pull it all apart again and replace the mainshaft and starter seals and I am assuming it might make sense to to install the Baker bearing while I have it apart.

[hd-dude]

Be sure replace the seal/washer at the starter shaft pinion bolt.

[Boatman]

Be sure replace the seal/washer at the starter shaft pinion bolt.

X2  I even put some #2 Permatex on the threads of the jackshaft bolt as the primary oil will come up the bolt and drip out of the inner primary where the starter connects to the jackshaft.

[hverbakel]

sorry, that's what I meant.... the starter jackshaft seal.

[hverbakel]

This mainshaft seal is in upside down isn't it?

[hverbakel]

Can anyone verify this?

[Twolanerider]

Can anyone verify this?

From you picture I can't tell for sure how yours is installed.  Install it with the spring toward the fluid.

[06fastboy2]

I used the S&S inner bearing race on my Fatboy,it is tapered inside so it can't walk.You still use the stock roller bearing and seal.