Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[1abastarsmda]

When I changed out my high beam to an HID, the garage door stopped working.  It was fine when I changed the low beam, but now it won't work.  If I disconnect the plug from the HID high beam to the ballast, the garage door works.  Plug it back in, and no garage door.  Any ideas?

[Twolanerider]

How'd you take off the high beam feed at the headlight plug to power the second HID ballast?  Remember that the high and low beam feeds also signal the garage door opener transmitter.  So first guess has to be that somehow in adding the ballast the high beam feed to the transmitter is being lost/unhooked/something.

[1abastarsmda]

From the headlamp switch to the ballast and then from the ballast to the bulb.

[1abastarsmda]

and another pic

[1abastarsmda]

If I unplug that connector that is sitting just to the left of the bulbs in the pic, then the garage door opener works fine.  Put it back together and no more garage door opener.

[1abastarsmda]

I'm guessing that it's similar to when I had the FOB in my windshield bag directly over the ballast.  The ballast created interference and the alarm went off until I moved the FOB.  I'm thinking that the ballast being hooked into the same wire is creating interference and won't let the opener work.  The transmitter in the fairing doesn't even blink when the ballast is hooked up.

[1abastarsmda]

I'm wondering if something like this item could make the problem go away.  http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=product&id=130&parent=94

[Twolanerider]

I'm guessing that it's similar to when I had the FOB in my windshield bag directly over the ballast.  The ballast created interference and the alarm went off until I moved the FOB.  I'm thinking that the ballast being hooked into the same wire is creating interference and won't let the opener work.  The transmitter in the fairing doesn't even blink when the ballast is hooked up.

Dave, I'm sorry but I can't tell well what I'm seeing in the pics.  Just not sure what sources are tied where and how it all runs together.  One thing in your description bears question though.

If it's an electrical interference issue it should be just that; an interference problem for the transmission over the airwave.  Not a function problem of the transmitter itself. 

If what you're seeing makes you think the transmitter isn't even sending a signal (interfered with or not) that would make me consider a feed problem from the headlight circuit even more.

[Twolanerider]

I'm wondering if something like this item could make the problem go away.  http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=product&id=130&parent=94

Don't see how.  Headlights on the bikes aren't on any data bus.  Bike doesn't know if they're on or off.  Headlights and spotlights are some of the few things still on the bikes that just get electricity thrown at them without any monitoring of their actual function.  The devices in the link likely deal with the differences in power consumption or other applications use of the HID versus a "standard" bulb.  We don't have to deal with that with our headlights.

[1abastarsmda]

Dave, I'm sorry but I can't tell well what I'm seeing in the pics.  Just not sure what sources are tied where and how it all runs together.  One thing in your description bears question though.

If it's an electrical interference issue it should be just that; an interference problem for the transmission over the airwave.  Not a function problem of the transmitter itself. 

If what you're seeing makes you think the transmitter isn't even sending a signal (interfered with or not) that would make me consider a feed problem from the headlight circuit even more.

But in this case, I wasn't thinking airwave, but direct connection through the same wiring route.  I'm not much for electrical circuitry, so I'm just taking wild stabs in the air.  But  the fact that simply pulling apart the connector that goes from the headlamp switch to the ballast makes it work tells me that it's definitely the ballast causing interference somehow.

[1abastarsmda]

Don't see how.  Headlights on the bikes aren't on any data bus.  Bike doesn't know if they're on or off.  Headlights and spotlights are some of the few things still on the bikes that just get electricity thrown at them without any monitoring of their actual function.  The devices in the link likely deal with the differences in power consumption or other applications use of the HID versus a "standard" bulb.  We don't have to deal with that with our headlights.

That was the other question in my mind...could it be consuming too much power so that there isn't any for the garage door opener?

[1abastarsmda]

I'm going to call DDM Tuning on Monday and see if they have any answers for me on this.  Maybe they have run into this problem before.

[Twolanerider]

But in this case, I wasn't thinking airwave, but direct connection through the same wiring route.  I'm not much for electrical circuitry, so I'm just taking wild stabs in the air.  But  the fact that simply pulling apart the connector that goes from the headlamp switch to the ballast makes it work tells me that it's definitely the ballast causing interference somehow.

Interference not as in electrical interference over the airwaves (that wouldn't keep the little led from blinking) but interference as in its interfering with it working right; ok 

Take a look at the yellow and white wires to the headlight.  One for high beam and one for low beam.  Black wire to the original headlight plug(s) is the ground. 

A ground connection will go to one side of each ballast.

The low beam feed supplies one ballast.

The high beam feed supplies the other.

We'd talked about all that before. 

Now take a look and see where you're tapping in to the high beam wire.  Is it tapped in the harness somewhere or are you plugging directly in to the headlight socket?  If plugging directly in to the headlight socket are you sure you have the polarity correct?

I'll be up another hour or so.  Give a call if you want to.

[Twolanerider]

That was the other question in my mind...could it be consuming too much power so that there isn't any for the garage door opener?

Load that heavy would blow a fuse.  It's a little counterintuitive.  But the brighter HID bulbs actually end up with less current draw than the old halogen bulbs.

[1abastarsmda]

Load that heavy would blow a fuse.  It's a little counter intuitive.  But the brighter HID bulbs actually end up with less current draw than the old halogen bulbs.

I'm trying to find my phone.

[Twolanerider]

I'm trying to find my phone.

Uh oh; where's my beer!

[Twolanerider]

Ok, we learned a little.  We didn't solve anything.  But we learned a little.

With both ballasts plugged in to the headlight sockets on the bike the lights fire but the garage door opener does not work.  It seems to not function at all.  Not an electronic interference issue keeping the receiver from hearing the transmitter.  Just no transmission.

Unplug the ballasts from the main harness's headlight sockets and the GDO works fine. 

Plug either ballast in to the low beam socket and the GDO works fine.

Plug either ballast in to the high beam socket and the GDO does not work.  It's in no way cumulative -- does not work with either single ballast plugged in to the high beam socket and nothing in the low beam socket.

The ballasts are attaching to the harness downstream from the connection of the harness to the GDO.  So I can't immediately think of anything else to cause what's happening.  I know the headlight and GDO harness connections are different on Dave's newer bike than on my 05 but I don't have a schematic here newer than 05 so can't look to see what's what and where it all ties together.  Dave traced his connections back and it appears polarity is correct on all the connections he's making.

Anyone familiar with the newer bike's headlight connections got any ideas?

[CVORick]

Isn't the low beam always on no matter what, which would give you a battery and ground path for the opener to work?  Not sure, just asking.  It would seem when you plug in the high beam you are either opening the ground path or shunting battery.  Would be interested to know if you figured this out and what the vendor suggested.  Would like to install these lights also.

[1abastarsmda]

Isn't the low beam always on no matter what, which would give you a battery and ground path for the opener to work?  Not sure, just asking.  It would seem when you plug in the high beam you are either opening the ground path or shunting battery.  Would be interested to know if you figured this out and what the vendor suggested.  Would like to install these lights also.

No, I have not figured it out.  The vendor's technical support consisted of the woman that answered the phone in customer service and she was absolutely no help whatsoever.  She seemed to be a bit impressed that I had a garage door opener in the first place.

[kraut]

I'm wondering if something like this item could make the problem go away.  http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=product&id=130&parent=94

nice part, it could make your problems go away indeed - finally:

"Warning: Some vehicles may have reverse polarity. Reverse polarity can cause a BOW to explode. We recommend wearing safety glasses and closing your hood before testing the BOW on your vehicle."

Wonder how much of a shelter a fairing may provide

[CVORick]

nice part, it could make your problems go away indeed - finally:

"Warning: Some vehicles may have reverse polarity. Reverse polarity can cause a BOW to explode. We recommend wearing safety glasses and closing your hood before testing the BOW on your vehicle."

Wonder how much of a shelter a fairing may provide

Yeah.  Thank goodness HD does not have a "Bulb Out Warning" unit.

[CVORick]

1abastarsmda,  Find the fix yet?

[1abastarsmda]

1abastarsmda,  Find the fix yet?

No. 

[1abastarsmda]

I changed the ballast on the high beam to a completely different one and now the garage door and all lights work fine.  BUT, there is a loud electrical humming noise when the high beam is on now.  If you look at the photos that I posted earlier in Reply #3 to this thread (I'll try posting the same photo below again), on the left side of the photo there is a wire that comes from the ballast with a relay half way down the wire and at the end of that wire, it splits into 2 connectors that connect to the headlamp.  The relay on the wire that I'm talking about is just below and to the right of the speaker on the left side of the photo.  If I pull that relay as far away from all else as possible while still hooked up, the humming noise goes away.  How can I shield that relay and wire to stop the interference?  I tried wrapping it in aluminum foil, but it only helped slightly.  I didn't even know if that was a legitimate way to try to make it go away.  I'm getting no interference in radio signal or anything like that.  There's nothing that I can do to even keep it as far out as it has to be pulled, since once the fairing goes back on, it will be tight against everything again.  Any suggestions?

[CVORick]

Did a lot of Google searching about your issue.  The weird thing is that even the $500 plus dollar MOCO HID version is only for the Low Beam.  Only found that the HID ballast can cause interference to the FM section of radios (move the antenna as far as possible from ballast, like 3 to 4 feet) and sometimes induce noise on the positive side.  Glad you came up with a solution, but it seems the cure is just as bad.  When you say "different ballast" do you mean another brand?  There are metal EMI shields, like your foil, but you might have to shield the wires as well as the relay.  Does the relay produce more heat when you shield it with foil?  Definitely a concern.

[1abastarsmda]

Yes, it's a different brand ballast this time.  As I said, there is no interference with the FM radio.  I did just figure something else out.  It's that relay that's making the noise.  The only reason the noise is a little less with the foil on is because the foil is blocking the sound.  I also found out that it's louder when I first switch to high beam and then it's not really very loud at all.  I don't even think I would hear it with the fairing on, and definitely not with the bike running.  The only thing I'm worried about is frying everything or a fire starting.  I didn't check to see if it gets hot, but I'll turn it on for a bit and check it out.  It's not like I ever have the chance to leave the high beams on for any length of time to start with, but I'd sure like to know if I have a potential problem if I ever left them on by mistake in the daytime for a while.  I have yet another ballast that should be here tomorrow or the next day...I hope...and I'm going to hook it up and see if it does the same thing also.  I WILL GET THIS DOWN TO A SCIENCE BEFORE THIS IS ALL OVER!

[hdbrad03]

Maybe that is why some light kits cost $17.50 and some $300.00?? Maybe we have too pay to stop the inteference. Kinda like paying to Mod our Bikes so they will run cooler. Only saying.

 
     Brad

[1abastarsmda]

Maybe that is why some light kits cost $17.50 and some $300.00?? Maybe we have too pay to stop the inteference. Kinda like paying to Mod our Bikes so they will run cooler. Only saying.

 
     Brad

No arguments there.  I'm definitely finding inconsistencies amongst these el cheapos.

[skreminegul07]

You really cannot see the high beam in the dual config that I've noticed.  I had to argue with the guy doing the motor vehicle safety inspection due to that.
I bought high quality HID from xtralights and it caused interference with the Tune Trapper antenna internal to the fairing.  Had to go to the external shortie.

[1abastarsmda]

   It all works now!  I disconnected it all and put it back together again and now everything works as designed.  Something must not have been making a good contact somewhere, but the lights work, the garage door opener works, and the humming noise is gone.  All I need now is to receive the new bulb in a different color temp for the low beam...the one I have in there is a bit too blue for my taste.  I haven't tested the high beam outside at night yet, but there seems to be a big difference on the garage wall.

[CVORick]

Outstanding!!!  Now show us your parts list that make it work.

[1abastarsmda]

Outstanding!!!  Now show us your parts list that make it work.

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-35W-55W-Single-Motorcycle-HID-Kit
35W, H11, 4500K temp for low beam and 35W, H8, 4500K for high beam.  It looks like their price just went up from $17.50 for the kit to $25.00 for each kit.  I also used the Luminics 881 bulbs for the passing lamps. http://www.luminicsusa.com/detail.asp?p_Number=LW-881T  $21 for a pair.

I had the bike out tonight for the first time with the new passing lamps and high beam.  The passing lamps are great.  The high beam sucks without having the passing lamps on at the same time.  The passing lamps really add a ton of extra light.  I may set it up so the passing lamps stay on with the high beam, even if it's not exactly legal.  I don't see why it really matters since you turn the high beam off when cars are coming the other direction anyway.  First, I'm going to play a little with the aim of the lamps, as it seems that maybe the high beam might not be aimed low enough and it's not throwing any light on the road.  The problem is that I don't think you can adjust just the one beam, so I'll have to what happens with the low beam with any adjustments.  Right now, the low beam with the passing lamps is excellent.  I'm beginning to see why a few have said that the high beam won't be needed anymore, but it would be nice to have it lit up a little further down the road...but not at the expense of dimming things in closer range.