Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[North Star]

I always said I should stay off the Twin Cam board  

Just read the thread about replacing lifters as a preventative maintenance measure. Everytime I come on this board, I get scared from all the issues some are having with their 110's.

I keep reminding myself of what many say- issues with the 110 are amplified on the internet and in particular on the motorcycle forums. Some say there are thousands of CVO owners that have had no issues with their high mileage 110's... maybe??? 

I'm at 21,000 trouble free miles with my 2009 SERG. Bought it used from a good owner in April 2010 with 5995 miles, and to me, it's reasonably quiet and runs cool enough for my liking. Only possible tell-tale signs of anything potentially bad in the future might be the odd ticking when cold (sometimes), and towards the end of the season, I noticed a bit of oil consumption for the first time (but no leaks).

Like someone else mentioned, the last thing I want is down time during the already short riding season, and I especially don't ever want a break down while on a trip. Like everyone here, I really LOVE riding, and want a reliable ride that doesn't have to be in the shop unless I choose for it to be. So, I don't think "don't fix it 'till it's broke" is a good creedo to live by for me, when it comes to my engine.

My indy mechanic turned me on to an old racer mechanic that is a well known tuner around here. He is also known for a 110 performance package that he does- he'll do headwork, throttle body work, re-grinds the stock cams, and in the case of those who have stock exhaust, he guts the cats and puts in different baffles. Basically, he uses what HD has delivered, but re-works everything, and turns it into what it should have been from the factory.

He gets around 105 hp/130 tq from his builds- I've seen the dyno sheets. Says the bike ends up being very ridable, cool running and reliable as well. He's done about a dozen 110's around here.

Total cost for me would be just under $3,000, including taxes and custom dyno tune. Of course, I have to dump my TTS and buy the SEPST, as that's his module of choice. Not sure if he puts in new lifters , but I'd make sure that I end up with new lifters, inner cam bearing, and valve guides.

I was holding off on getting this work done until the bike hit like 40-50 thousand miles, but with all this info I'm reading, it seems to suggest that I'm at the prime mileage to get it done now rather than later.

The other option is to just do lifters, cam w/Torrington bearings, .030 gasket, and valve guides. Thing is, there is definitely no consensus of which cam is the best for the 110 for what I want (like most of us- low end torque), because one thread says the TW555, 777, 7H, etc is great, than another says no, you need headwork with them, best to stick with the SE255 because it can't be beat for low end tq, than another thread says the SE255 is only good for emission compliance, and is garbage,etc, etc .......

Plus, the tuner guy is against aftermarket cams for the 110, as he says several things have to be done as a package to make it all work, and just doing cams alone aren't going to accomplish much.

So, a bit of a rant I know...what was my point again? Oh ya, what do you guys think-  do lifters/valve guides/cam bearings really have a 20-25 k life span on every 110 ever made, or am I being paranoid? Should I wait to do the 110 performance work later, when I want to, or sooner because supposedly my engines days are numbered?

[BUBBLEHEAD]

If he can build your engine that strong and reliable and you can afford it. Then why would you want to wait 

[North Star]

If he can build your engine that strong and reliable and you can afford it. Then why would you want to wait 

Well, I'm not made of money for one, plus I always figured I'd rather not crack into the engine until it gets higher mileage, as in when it's due for a freshening up (like say, 50,000 miles). I could afford to do it if now rather than later if I convinced myself it would be wise to do it now, for preventative maintenance reasons.

Guess that's what my question boils down to- is 20-25 k miles the point where one should refresh the failure prone components of the 110?

[VaEagle]

I am no mechanic but I agree with some of what you say. The more you read the problem sections the more you can convince yourself you have a problem. Think about it this way, how many owners post "I went for a ride today and nothing broke!" So we never get a true picture of the number of healthy 110s out there.
Many times on problem threads we don't know how heavily modified that 110 was and was it modified by a good mechanic. Also we don't know how well maintained that bike was or how hard the owner pushed the bike.
Most mechanics I have talked to state that the closer to stock the longer it lasts if ridden in a "normal" manner but if you are a hard rider you may want some improvements.
Just my .02 but I would leave things alone for now until you save money for the mods you want and hopefully things will work where you need "freshening up" at the same time you have the money to do it.
Also do you have a warranty or extended coverage? Maybe that will cover the costs if things happen? So if the warranty covers a standard rebuild then maybe you could pay the extra for the upgrades you want?

[Cvostu]

All these decisions.  I just bought a new SG. I know I have to do the exhaust.  That's a given.  So I anpm going with fullsac. Next is the cams and bearings. I am told how the Andrews works so well for these 110s. So I am talking myself into having those installed.  Not that I don't like the stock cams.  They seem fine, but I'm sure the Andrews has some advantages.   Then head gaskets, and lifters.  I did those on my 04 but at 40 k miles.   So I'm not going to do that at this time.   I don't really want to crack into that area of the motor.  Then I ask myself,,  is now the time to do that?  Exhaust, cams and a good tune for now is all I'm gonna do.  But I k ow what you mean. 

[SERK3]

I am no mechanic but I agree with some of what you say. The more you read the problem sections the more you can convince yourself you have a problem. Think about it this way, how many owners post "I went for a ride today and nothing broke!" So we never get a true picture of the number of healthy 110s out there.
Many times on problem threads we don't know how heavily modified that 110 was and was it modified by a good mechanic. Also we don't know how well maintained that bike was or how hard the owner pushed the bike.
Most mechanics I have talked to state that the closer to stock the longer it lasts if ridden in a "normal" manner but if you are a hard rider you may want some improvements.
Just my .02 but I would leave things alone for now until you save money for the mods you want and hopefully things will work where you need "freshening up" at the same time you have the money to do it.
Also do you have a warranty or extended coverage? Maybe that will cover the costs if things happen? So if the warranty covers a standard rebuild then maybe you could pay the extra for the upgrades you want?

I agree with you 100% 

[BryantH]

I hear what you're saying North Star -
I have an 09 SERG as well and have not done any engine work to her. I travel with her at least twice a year and ride her regularly 200 - 500 miles per day when I can get on it when the weather is good here in Massachusetts. After I had the standard comp replaced with the SE comp, she runs much better. I say that because some of the stuff you read on this site (and others) is good information about changes you can make to your ride for the better - e.g., SE Comp, Cat Removal, Improved Suspension, Seat Upgrade, Tune and so one (most of these I've done and have made my ride a better ride).

Now as far as engine, I hear that the cams, lifters, guides and such are also improvements but I have chosen not to crack my engine. I also have 20,000 on mine and I don't abuse her but for the most part, she has been reliable ( I did have a shut down while on a trip once but to date, I have not received a good reason why but don't think the engine was the issue). I have a warrantee until 2015, so if she breaks, I should be covered. I'm also not into the horse power wars and feel my 110 is plenty fast for what I do. Last I checked, the highest posted speed limit in the US is 75 MPH and usually only do 10MPH over the speed limit - it's a touring bike. I average 47 MPG and it uses very little to no oil (never notice a loss when changing oil). I may have a good one but should she experience a major engine problem while under warrantee, then I'll make some upgrades, along with the warrantee work. After 2015, if my engine goes - I'm going with another new engine - maybe a 120R that has been balance welded and all the other stuff the folks talk about. But until then, I'm going to enjoy her....

Just my .02 cent.

BryantH

[Ironhorse]

Think about it this way, how many owners post "I went for a ride today and nothing broke!"

Now that's funny right there! So true.

[SBB]

re-grinds the stock cams,

A well know tuner that regrinds stock cams?
How does the cost of that compare to a set of new cams?
Do you get the specs?

          

Also,

I have to dump my TTS and buy the SEPST,

A well know tuner that suggest you dump the TTS and use a SEPST?
Now that really scares me.
I bet Steve Cole laughs when he reads that kind of stuff.

Oh ya, what do you guys think-

You asked, I think your being paranoid about your motor.
This site is a great source of information.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy another 110 bike because this site has taught me where the issues concerning them are.
Stock evo's made no horsepower, early twin cams had issues, 110's have their own set of issues.
I think the real question is whether you are going to be proactive to address those potential issues sooner or wait till they possibly leave you stranded.

My suggestion, call Jim at Metal Dragon and seek his advice.
There are a lot of motor builders on this site but none better or fairer than Jim.
Good luck in what you do.

SBB

[BAGGER 1]

While we are on this subject I wanna put in my 2 cents,  I purchased my 09 SERG 28 Nov, 2011 and previously ridin a dyna low rider for
two years I ride about 3.000 miles a year. Once a year me and my 2 brothers take about a 1.000 mile trip. Last year my back hurt so bad after ridin
75 to 100 miles I was miserable. So I stepped up, way up, I didnt do alot of homework but I did do a little. I got no bad advice on the 110 motor
and the peeps I did talk to suggested get a 09 and up. they all seemed to advise the the bugs in the 110 motor had been worked out, and it was very
reliable, not to metion the 09 frame was so much better.
   So I am gonna run redline oils, keep her tuned, and ride. One thing I am seriously considering is a oil cooler fan, I have watched the u tube videos and I am gonne talk to my Harley tech to see what he thinks.
   Now If anyone could give me pointers on things to watch and listen for I would appreciate it .  Thanks,  Leeco

[roadking71865]

   So I am gonna run redline oils, keep her tuned, and ride. One thing I am seriously considering is a oil cooler fan, I have watched the u tube videos and I am gonne talk to my Harley tech to see what he thinks.

I'd like info/ feedback on the oil cooler also. Jaag, Ultracool or Oil Bud?

[Montanakid]

My suggestion, call Jim at Metal Dragon and seek his advice.
There are a lot of motor builders on this site but none better or fairer than Jim.
Good luck in what you do.

SBB

I too had some of the same questions, except mine was a little different, I had the stealer install hi comp pistons and cams before it left the lot for the first time, and I too was worried after reading a lot of this stuff, so when I was at Metal Dragon getting a sound system installed and presented some of these questions to Jim he told me to just go ride it and have fun. Now IMHO if it's gonna break it's gonna break, you can try all your preventative stuff you want, but in the end it really don't matter if it's bone stock or built to the top, once again if it's gonna break it's gonna break.








[/quote]

[North Star]

I am no mechanic but I agree with some of what you say. The more you read the problem sections the more you can convince yourself you have a problem. Think about it this way, how many owners post "I went for a ride today and nothing broke!" So we never get a true picture of the number of healthy 110s out there.
Many times on problem threads we don't know how heavily modified that 110 was and was it modified by a good mechanic. Also we don't know how well maintained that bike was or how hard the owner pushed the bike.
Most mechanics I have talked to state that the closer to stock the longer it lasts if ridden in a "normal" manner but if you are a hard rider you may want some improvements.
Just my .02 but I would leave things alone for now until you save money for the mods you want and hopefully things will work where you need "freshening up" at the same time you have the money to do it.
Also do you have a warranty or extended coverage? Maybe that will cover the costs if things happen? So if the warranty covers a standard rebuild then maybe you could pay the extra for the upgrades you want?

I have no extended warranty and don't plan on purchasing one now.

[North Star]

A well know tuner that regrinds stock cams?
How does the cost of that compare to a set of new cams?
Do you get the specs?

          

Not sure how much just that costs, as it is all part of the package of work he does. I'm going to talk to him soon, and get an itemized list of the work he does.

Also,

A well know tuner that suggest you dump the TTS and use a SEPST?
Now that really scares me.
I bet Steve Cole laughs when he reads that kind of stuff.

Why is that scary? He, like most tuners specialize in using one tuner or another-he happens to like the SEPST, but doesn't say anything bad about the TTS- it's just what he prefers. He did tell me the SEPST does one thing that the TTS doesn't, but I don't remember exactly what. He is able to use the TTS, and actually tweaked my TTS map in September, as it was a little lean at start up because I was getting a backfiring on occasion. The backfire problem is gone since he adjusted the map.

You asked, I think your being paranoid about your motor.
This site is a great source of information.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy another 110 bike because this site has taught me where the issues concerning them are.
Stock evo's made no horsepower, early twin cams had issues, 110's have their own set of issues.
I think the real question is whether you are going to be proactive to address those potential issues sooner or wait till they possibly leave you stranded.

My suggestion, call Jim at Metal Dragon and seek his advice.
There are a lot of motor builders on this site but none better or fairer than Jim.
Good luck in what you do.

SBB

[North Star]

On this dyno sheet, he overlayed my dyno run (in red) with a dyno run from one of his 110 worked over bikes (in blue), all on the one sheet.

Note that the top lines are actually HP and the lower lines are torque- not sure why they are backwards from most dyno sheets I've seen.

Funny how the curves are pretty much identical to mine- I guess that's why he said I didn't need a custom map, as my curves looked good.

[Para Bellum]

On this dyno sheet, he overlayed my dyno run (in red) with a dyno run from one of his 110 worked over bikes (in blue), all on the one sheet.

Note that the top lines are actually HP and the lower lines are torque- not sure why they are backwards from most dyno sheets I've seen.

Funny how the curves are pretty much identical to mine- I guess that's why he said I didn't need a custom map, as my curves looked good.

They are backward (HP on top) because the TQ scale (right side) is different than the HP (left side)...HP scale ranges from 30 to 110, and TQ from 75 to 275.  Very strange thing to do, especially since TQ doesn't get much above 125.

[glens]

A well know tuner that suggest you dump the TTS and use a SEPST?
Now that really scares me.
I bet Steve Cole laughs when he reads that kind of stuff.

Why is that scary?  He, like most tuners specialize in using one tuner or another-he happens to like the SEPST, but doesn't say anything bad about the TTS- it's just what he prefers. He did tell me the SEPST does one thing that the TTS doesn't, but I don't remember exactly what.

It's scary for a couple reasons at least.  Foremost is that the SEPST is going to be better than 10%, even deeply discounted, of the price you were quoted, and for no good reason.  That's right.  No good reason.

"The SEPST does one thing the TTS doesn't" would have to be either that it disobeys your directives in several ways when you use it to "smart" tune or that it will standalone datalog.  There are several good and actually useful things the TTS does that the SEPST doesn't.  It's not even close to a wash; the TTS kit is hands-down the better product of the two.

Personally, I'd thank the guy for his time and entertainment, then walk away.

[North Star]

Since I don't want to get into another which tuner is best debate, I'll leave those related comments alone for the most part. I will say that there is more than one tool (which is all the tuning device is) that will get the dyno tuner the end result we are all looking for, and if there was  only one tuning device that every dyno tuner in the world felt was the best, every other company other than TTS would be out of business. If you go over on the big HD forum, everyone there will tell you that Fuel Moto and the Power Commander rule the world. We have our preferred products and vendors, and they have theirs.

I talked to the guy again, and he also suggests re-ringing the pistons, honing the cylinder walls, and bead blasting the pistons. Apparently every 110 he's cracked open (about 12 of them) has had oil behind the valves (??) and have been heavily carboned. He feels that the synthetic oil put in by the factory never give the rings a proper chance to seal, which may explain my oil consumption. Suprisingly to me, this isn't a lot more labour cost since he said he would eat some of it, and on top of that, he gave me a more itemized estimate, which brought it down to about $2,500 total.

I would have to buy the SEPST and the lifters- the rest of the parts he supplies. From what I see the Woods directional lifter and the HQ Black Ops seem to be the most popular- any opinions on that?

Also, I didnt read any comments on the dyno chart- looks great, no?

[glens]

Leaving the "which tuning kit is better" argument alone, as to specific details, there's no good reason whatsoever that you'd need to dump a perfectly capable tool and purchase another which will not bring one thing to the table apart from the guy who demands you do so having a canned map developed on that other unit.  Sure, he'll throw it on the dyno and make a few minor adjustments to suit your individual combination of parts' quirks.  But there's no excuse for not copying the pertinent values over to your software and starting with your interface.  Now, with your revised figures, the new interface has got to handily be above 10% superfluity.

I'd be real curious to know what he does to the stock cams.  If he touches the profiles any at all he'll be taking away valve lift.

Gutting the cat will risk good front O2 sensor behavior unless he also makes modifications to ensure sensor isolation, and if he's going to tune it and leave it entirely open-loop then that'd be something more for me to find issue with.  There's just no good reason for doing that these days, what with variable fuel and all, and that's not even the most important reason to stay closed-loop.

I don't want to offend you but I find the whole thing ludicrous.  I'd just ride it until just before it broke.

[North Star]

Here is a summary of what I've been told by this builder/tuner:

- the 110 is a different animal than the 96 or 103, and doing the usual standard performance mod's won't work the same on the 110 (ie- throwing in bigger cams) (which I think has been shown here many times- I've read of many dissapointments from guys who have put in cams alone, only to find the only thing it accomplished was move the torque curve to the right and raise peak numbers)

- the exhaust flow needs to be 80% of the intake flow for optimum performance

- re-degree the cam to 4 degrees retarded (I know what lift and duration is, but I don't know what this means or what it accomplishes)

- .030 head gaskets

- inspect valve guides and port heads and put on a flow bench, radius valves

- re-use stock pushrods

- "massage" throttle body and exhaust ports

- check crank runout

- re-ring and bead blast pistons, re-hone cylinders

I'm running a Fullsac b headpipe and 4" Rineharts, so I don't need any cat removal.

I mentioned the issues I've read here about, specifically cam bearings and lifters. He said no problem if I wanted to replace them, but of the 110's he's had apart, he hasn't seen any issues with them. Keep in mind he's old school, so he doesn't spend hours surfing these forums reading up on other peoples issues- he is just stating what he has seen.

The issue he has seen, and on 110's with lower miles than mine, is the poor sealing piston rings, and the enevitable carbon build up on the pistons and in the chambers. He says due to the oil and the high heat of a stock motor, all these engines will allow some oil past the rings and into the chamber. Believe it or not, he said he recommends people who have had his 110 package done to just run a quality dino oil over synthetic, as the modified engine will be breathing properly, and won't run so excessively hot (which he thinks is why HD even recommends synthetic in the 110's- because they knew hot excessively hot they would run).

Also, I remember the one thing he said the HD tuner does that the TTS doesn't- have the ability to tune each cylinder individually.

Finally, he won't be "throwing it on the dyno and make a few minor adjustments"- the package includes a custom dyno tune.

Again I'll ask about the dyno chart- that is the end result, and I'd say the curves and the numbers look as good as anyones.

I'd love to hear from builders like Hillside and Dewey's heads to see what they think of all this.

[glens]

Thanks for the clarification.

It pretty much all sounds like reasonable standard fare.  Increase compression a little with a shorter gasket, decrease it a little by retarding the cams (maybe move the curve a skosh to the right?), etc.  I can't say whether the proposed cost represents a good value for you.  As to others' disappointment with "just cams" I submit the folks more than anything had chosen the wrong cam.

He'll make the piston deck heights the same both cylinders if they're not?   And what if the crank runout needs addressing?  No doubt that'll be an extra charge, and if I were going through this process then knowing how he'd plan to rectify that issue that would also factor into my decision.

You may have misunderstood something he said about the difference between the tuning kits.  Not only will the TTS do both cylinders individually, there are actually more (and important) things that can be adjusted with it vs. the SEPST.  Moving the cams probably gets you to where a couple of the tables TTS has, which SEPST doesn't, would be beneficial to the end result.  If he's the one who has the misunderstanding he should take a few moments and get up to speed with what's been going on with the TTS.  Again, were I in your situation I'd be insistent he use the tuning interface I already have.  If he can use the one he sure ought to be able to use the other.  I rather wonder if he doesn't have something other than TTS in mind while referring to it as "TTS".

Does he work with or disable the ECM's closed-loop operation?

Dyno charts really don't interest me beyond viewing general trends.  I believe they're fairly manipulatable and they portray only an operating characteristic which I almost never employ.

[North Star]

I wish there were more people around here that tuned with the TTS. The only one on the TTS website in the whole province is near me, but he doesn't have a dyno, plus I have heard mixed opinions on him.

Fortunately the way the bike sits, I don't think I need a custom tune, and if I did, I suppose I could read up on how to do a V tune. I owe that to the map provided by Fullsac.

Regardless, I agree if I did performance work it would be better to have it tuned with the TTS, especially since I already own one.

Thanks for the info Glens.

[dayne66]

I had a SERT...couldn't get a good tune....may have been my local HD shop though!

Now have TTS....cooler, no ping at all, better MPG....and just as much power!

[spydglide]

I has a SERT...couldn't get a good tune....may have been my local HD shop though!

Now have TTS....cooler, no ping at all, better MPG....and just as much power!

Is this comparison on the same motorcycle?  spyder

[glens]

Fortunately the way the bike sits, I don't think I need a custom tune, and if I did, I suppose I could read up on how to do a V tune. I owe that to the map provided by Fullsac.

Yes, it really would be in your best interest.  Even with the bike the way it sits, I'm confident you could obtain a little better something over the way it runs now with that "canned map".  To be sure, the calibration you got from Fullsac is an excellent starting point.  It is, however, more likely than not that your particular combination of parts and their individual characteristics is not exactly the same as the one Steve used while developing that calibration.  Frankly, I'd be surprised if Steve hadn't at least suggested you might want to polish it a little.

You've always got the option of restoring the ECM back to that calibration, so don't be shy to try/apply a few v-tune sessions.  If you only wind up with a few percent VE change here and there you are close enough already.  Trying to get less change than that between sessions is where you start wasting time.

Whatever you wind up doing, please take the time to report back and offer us closure.  :)

[dayne66]

Is this comparison on the same motorcycle?  spyder

Yes...same motorcycle....different guy tuning though.

[1sharprdkg]

Here is a summary of what I've been told by this builder/tuner:

- the 110 is a different animal than the 96 or 103, and doing the usual standard performance mod's won't work the same on the 110 (ie- throwing in bigger cams) (which I think has been shown here many times- I've read of many dissapointments from guys who have put in cams alone, only to find the only thing it accomplished was move the torque curve to the right and raise peak numbers)

- the exhaust flow needs to be 80% of the intake flow for optimum performance

- re-degree the cam to 4 degrees retarded (I know what lift and duration is, but I don't know what this means or what it accomplishes)

- .030 head gaskets

- inspect valve guides and port heads and put on a flow bench, radius valves

- re-use stock pushrods

- "massage" throttle body and exhaust ports

- check crank runout

- re-ring and bead blast pistons, re-hone cylinders

I'm running a Fullsac b headpipe and 4" Rineharts, so I don't need any cat removal.

I mentioned the issues I've read here about, specifically cam bearings and lifters. He said no problem if I wanted to replace them, but of the 110's he's had apart, he hasn't seen any issues with them. Keep in mind he's old school, so he doesn't spend hours surfing these forums reading up on other peoples issues- he is just stating what he has seen.

The issue he has seen, and on 110's with lower miles than mine, is the poor sealing piston rings, and the enevitable carbon build up on the pistons and in the chambers. He says due to the oil and the high heat of a stock motor, all these engines will allow some oil past the rings and into the chamber. Believe it or not, he said he recommends people who have had his 110 package done to just run a quality dino oil over synthetic, as the modified engine will be breathing properly, and won't run so excessively hot (which he thinks is why HD even recommends synthetic in the 110's- because they knew hot excessively hot they would run).

Also, I remember the one thing he said the HD tuner does that the TTS doesn't- have the ability to tune each cylinder individually.

Finally, he won't be "throwing it on the dyno and make a few minor adjustments"- the package includes a custom dyno tune.

Again I'll ask about the dyno chart- that is the end result, and I'd say the curves and the numbers look as good as anyones.

I'd love to hear from builders like Hillside and Dewey's heads to see what they think of all this.

I work on my old car some, I am not a Harley engine builder but IMO most of the above sounds like smoke he is blowing up your pants leg. One of your "builder" points was (re-use the stock pushrods), that seems foolish to me. You/he is doing all this work and not installing adjustable pushrods. "Massage" throttle body?  A lot of this does not sound right to me.

[North Star]

I work on my old car some, I am not a Harley engine builder but IMO most of the above sounds like smoke he is blowing up your pants leg. One of your "builder" points was (re-use the stock pushrods), that seems foolish to me. You/he is doing all this work and not installing adjustable pushrods. "Massage" throttle body?  A lot of this does not sound right to me.

I think his point "exhaust flow should be 80% of intake flow" is why he doesn't recommend overkilling the intake flow. He disagrees with larger throttle bodies for that reason too, so he recommends a light porting (matching?) to clean it up a bit.

As far as the pushrods, I don't know. I never asked "why not adjustable pushrods?", but maybe I will. I don't know what the advantages of them are.

[North Star]

Yes, it really would be in your best interest.  Even with the bike the way it sits, I'm confident you could obtain a little better something over the way it runs now with that "canned map".  To be sure, the calibration you got from Fullsac is an excellent starting point.  It is, however, more likely than not that your particular combination of parts and their individual characteristics is not exactly the same as the one Steve used while developing that calibration.  Frankly, I'd be surprised if Steve hadn't at least suggested you might want to polish it a little.

You've always got the option of restoring the ECM back to that calibration, so don't be shy to try/apply a few v-tune sessions.  If you only wind up with a few percent VE change here and there you are close enough already.  Trying to get less change than that between sessions is where you start wasting time.
Whatever you wind up doing, please take the time to report back and offer us closure.  

Maybe I'll try a V tune this spring. Honestly, I glanced at the info on the CD that came with the TTS, and I don't recall that it seemed real simple to do, but I should probably give it a more attentive read. If I get stuck, I know there is plenty of support on here. Thing is I get frustrated easily when I try to do something that I don't know enough about. Any idea if there is a Youtube link to a "TTS V Tune for Dummies" video?  

[glens]

Sorry, I know of no "for dummies" video on the subject.  Read through the latest tuning guide available at http://www.mastertune.net/files/Tuning%20Files/Delphi/Manuals/

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.  It's really not rocket science.

For what was described as being done, I don't think it's ass-smoke at all.  I don't know the monetary value but there's definitely value there, and were I doing that list of things I'd re-use my stock pushrods in a heartbeat.

[glens]

I'll try to give an undetailed overview of v-tune.

You set a copy of your calibration to go closed-loop in as much of the fuel table as you're allowed to do so.  You use a target value which is near the rich end of the available closed-loop range for the sake of the engine.  The instructions are totally unambiguous regarding this, so you can just blindly follow them.

You effectively disable the PE override mode which adds fuel over time under high load to help cool the engine.  It's a good thing in normal use but when activated will halt vtune data collection, making for wasted time, and you're not going to be running that way much if at all while v-tuning.

You load the calibration into the ECM, start a "v-tune data" logging session and go for a ride.  While riding you avoid sudden throttle changes and try your best to "feel" your way through as much of the VE tables as possible.  You'll definitely not get all areas but that's okay.  Get as much as you can.  When done, you use the v-tune software to generate a separate calibration using the data you acquired against the calibration in use to fetch it.

You then load that new calibration and gather more data.

A few iterations are generally sufficient when you start out close, as you will be doing.  You may look at the first one and say "This is going to be a waste of time" if proposed changes are few and minor.

You then take the last-made calibration and restore the PE and fuelling values to original, save it, then load it.  Done!

While v-tune data logging some folks like to also disable Acceleration Enrichment and (I think not so much) Deceleration Enleanment, both of which are brought into play with sudden/rapid changes in throttle.  While these modes are active (they're phased out over time following the event), data being gathered is ignored.  The notion is by disabling them you get more data.  That is certainly true, however I'm of the opinion that some of the data (notably the initial part of it each time) now being retained isn't so good because if AE, say, were called for but not supplied, the engine will be acting slightly lean, with the opposite for DE.  If you make decisive and relatively few throttle changes you can overwhelm those few (now-collected) funky data points with some extra good data.  But if you're not particularly decisive about being not smooth it's possible to grab a bunch of funky data which will be dutifully used afterward since it wasn't thrown out.

I'd rather spend a couple extra minutes gathering data and know that it's all good, so I leave those modes enabled while v-tuning.

There are other factors to look at while finishing the whole process, namely blending of the resultant VE tables, but let's go over that when the time comes.  You may not need to do it...

Polishing your calibration for your specific stuff will be rewarding.  In your case you likely only need to correct for the fact that fuel injectors are similar to snowflakes: no two behave exactly alike in all aspects.  The two you have are going to be some different from each other and neither will be/do exactly the same as either of the two in the bike Steve used to generate the calibration.

[06cuse]

Alright My .02 ~ Had an 06 Cuse 93k on the clock ~ bought a 10 LTD ~ an now have a 12 FLTRXSE ~ the Rear exhaust Valve Guide Failed on both 103's ~ on the 06 at 40k and at 80k, on the 10 at 30k.  All of these were warranted by HD.  I have 71k on the 10 now with a set of FM type B Heads ~ No Failure at 40k on the FM heads. What will I do after 165k on two bikes with 103's.  Have FM rework a set of 110 heads for me, (the dealer stage III'd it before I bought it) this included the cam bearing change.  I have SE 259's in it but would prefer Woods ~ The valve guides are the only major failures I've had ~ these averaged a 3 day turn from the boutique under warranty/extended warranty.  New ones ordered from the MOCO and installed ~ I pick up bike and ride some more.  I will replace the current heads with a set of reworked ~ I use an FM Headpipe and lowered the oil temp 20 degrees or so ~ the dealer had put HD True Duals which puzzled me with a stage III install done.  It was his personal bike, so he knew what he wanted ~ and it was not as much performance as I like.