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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: busarealfast on March 29, 2019, 10:41:38 AM
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Well gentlemen, After reading cam horror stories on some of the forums I finally went with the ole redshift 587 installation. Low and behold the se255 failure was in the works and she only has 41k miles. The inner cam bearing rollers on the rear cam were flaking and had obvious witness markings on the cam. While doing the cam I had noticed the oil leaking from the rear cylinder at exhaust valve area that had been seeping for a while. Welp after a few hard runs after the cam install I heard a noise that got louder while accelerating. When I got back to the house to check it out I looked while throttling and saw the head gasket blew. Very disappointed I pulled the top end apart and noticed the rear cylinder area where gasket leaked appears to have slight sleeve liner abnormalities.So now I'm at the crossroad again. Big bore kits alone are over 1k. I've already invested in the cam/lifters. Think I could have the existing cylinders repaired,bored,and go with a 10/1 piston for the cam and do a basic valve job? Or spend another 2k and do the SE 117? I'm starting to think its not worth it!
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I suggest a valve job, with heads resurfaced and new guides. If the liner has moved I would pitch that cylinder. Buy a new one and bore both over to first oversize. The cam choice will dictate optimal compression and there's nothing wrong with that being set at a lower than bleeding level. What I am recommending is a longevity move. If performance increase is the goal that changes things a bit, just more money. Any of what I proposed will require a full dyno tune with a flash tuner such as the tts.
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I suggest a valve job, with heads resurfaced and new guides. If the liner has moved I would pitch that cylinder. Buy a new one and bore both over to first oversize. The cam choice will dictate optimal compression and there's nothing wrong with that being set at a lower than bleeding level. What I am recommending is a longevity move. If performance increase is the goal that changes things a bit, just more money. Any of what I proposed will require a full dyno tune with a flash tuner such as the tts.
Solid advice! :2vrolijk_21: Be sure when you have the barrels off to check the rod bearings for binding!
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Yes, forgot that, far more prevalent problem than known.
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It's apart. GO BIGGER!
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If on a budget, might be able to pick up a set of used 110" jugs and then bore then out for 113" pistons.
Have you changed the lifters? If not, then they are well overdue
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actually some pistons and jugs in the For Sale forum
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=118298.0
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Thanks for all the input everyone. Now I'm at another crossroad! I purchased a 113 big bore kit that is rated at 10.7 compression ratio with a 0030 head gasket. Looks like another cam change and don't even have 50 miles on the rs587's. I'm a glutton for punishment. Opinions on the redshift 576 or 577 based on experience would be appreciated.
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Ask zippers!
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I did, they recommend the 577.
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Used to use it in 95" motors. Not a quiet grind iirc
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I'm thinking the se259 would be the one to use with this compression ratio. The 577 is kinda pricey too for a cam 399.00. Woods cams a cheaper than that! Anyone want to chime in on the 259?
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Use the 259 at 11:1 and it is great. 10.5 soft out of the hole, again pipe matters.
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Have you ever cut the domes down on the wiseco piston to accommodate the smaller cams (587)? $$$$ haha
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I have newSE259 for sale:)
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Have you ever cut the domes down on the wiseco piston to accommodate the smaller cams (587)? $$$$ haha
I have cut many wiseco domes. Depends on the top thickness and the influence on weight whether it is wise or not.
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Welp, disappointed again! Got the big bore kit from fedex and opened the piston box and looked at this!
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Look what I found in the latest box I opened!
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Welp, the solid advice I received regarding the rod binding is in fact a FACT. I measured the runout and was feeling ok when it was half the maximum which I think is a joke. Mine read .0045, I was actually about to install my new pistons. Then I started rolling the crank around again just to feel the rods and on the 3rd revolution I felt some binding. I could move them back and forth and it would free up and seem normal. I then rolled it around 10 times on 3 different sets cause I was trying to talk myself out of going deeper. It would bind about every third revolution. So now I'm bummed out again but hey, it's not a job it's an adventure! After looking into the prices of aftermarket flywheels I'm like WOW another 1500? I'm thinking about sending mine out to dark horse for the ole true balance and weld for a third of the price. I hope. Any suggestions? Thanks again for the solid advice!!
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Welp, the solid advice I received regarding the rod binding is in fact a FACT. I measured the runout and was feeling ok when it was half the maximum which I think is a joke. Mine read .0045, I was actually about to install my new pistons. Then I started rolling the crank around again just to feel the rods and on the 3rd revolution I felt some binding. I could move them back and forth and it would free up and seem normal. I then rolled it around 10 times on 3 different sets cause I was trying to talk myself out of going deeper. It would bind about every third revolution. So now I'm bummed out again but hey, it's not a job it's an adventure! After looking into the prices of aftermarket flywheels I'm like WOW another 1500? I'm thinking about sending mine out to dark horse for the ole true balance and weld for a third of the price. I hope. Any suggestions? Thanks again for the solid advice!!
The binding is the roller bearing in the rods are failing. We see a very large percentage of engines with these issues. Darkhorse is a great choice and they do great work. We use a shop in Oregon that does great work as well as the shipping is less from Ca.
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Welp, the solid advice I received regarding the rod binding is in fact a FACT. I measured the runout and was feeling ok when it was half the maximum which I think is a joke. Mine read .0045, I was actually about to install my new pistons. Then I started rolling the crank around again just to feel the rods and on the 3rd revolution I felt some binding. I could move them back and forth and it would free up and seem normal. I then rolled it around 10 times on 3 different sets cause I was trying to talk myself out of going deeper. It would bind about every third revolution. So now I'm bummed out again but hey, it's not a job it's an adventure! After looking into the prices of aftermarket flywheels I'm like WOW another 1500? I'm thinking about sending mine out to dark horse for the ole true balance and weld for a third of the price. I hope. Any suggestions? Thanks again for the solid advice!!
I guess it's a good thing you did check the flywheels. I did a 113 build on my 1014 CVO Limited a couple of years back. I could have sent my flywheels out BUT I opted on a set of S&S flywheels. Zippers did the heads and the cylinder work. I have S&S premium lifters and T-Man 600 SM cams. I am running a Thunder- Max tuner and a 58 mm throttle body and a D&D Fat Kat exhaust with the quite baffle. In this heavy bike this combo runs real good. Dyno numbers are also good. 133TQ and 129HP. Do your flywheels or buy new and ALSO make sure you do the Timken conversion on the left side case.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
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Keep in mind S&S wheels are available and then the whole rebuild route is avoided. The stock rods can pinch again and by the time you get the H-beams (upcharge) and balance (upcharge) plus the normal service you are knocking on the cost of a new crank and sell this as a buildable core on Ebay to offset a few dollars. Better way to go IMHO and IME. Have a look at the youtube videos that show the difference between stock and the stronger S&S units.
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Keep in mind S&S wheels are available and then the whole rebuild route is avoided. The stock rods can pinch again and by the time you get the H-beams (upcharge) and balance (upcharge) plus the normal service you are knocking on the cost of a new crank and sell this as a buildable core on Ebay to offset a few dollars. Better way to go IMHO and IME. Have a look at the youtube videos that show the difference between stock and the stronger S&S units.
Exactly. Not to mention the time you are saving.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
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Finally got my crankcase apart. Started to pull the plug on the S&S but after talking to a tech at darkhorse I found out the pistons on the 117 kit have to be modified to accommodate the full width rod to work. Anyone else had to do that?
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Finally got my crankcase apart. Started to pull the plug on the S&S but after talking to a tech at darkhorse I found out the pistons on the 117 kit have to be modified to accommodate the full width rod to work. Anyone else had to do that?
Modifying the pistons to fit the full compliment rods is a very easy operation for anyone who knows how to or owns a mill. Also check with S&S, they may offer taper top rods on their flywheels.
John
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As John says it is very easy and a quick change.
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Heat cycles completed with a couple of backroad rides. going on a longer ride with the club in the morning!
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Welp, disappointed again! Got the big bore kit from fedex and opened the piston box and looked at this!
HD piston? That's horrible.
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No,that was a 113 revolution performance big bore kit I sent back and purchased the harley 117 kit from dealer.
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No,that was a 113 revolution performance big bore kit I sent back and purchased the harley 117 kit from dealer.
good call.