Topic: 1000 Mile Service - Pay the dealer or not to do this service? (Read 16546 times)

garretn · « **on:** March 10, 2014, 05:57:57 PM »

I understand the importance of maintaining the new ride but $460+tax for a 1k service...

OOCH. I just wanted to get a feel for what everyone else does and what kind of money they spend on this service.

newseultra07 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 10, 2014, 07:00:06 PM »

Damn. Mine was only around $300.00 or so. I've done my 1000 mile's myself in the past. Its mostly just fluid change out anyways.... But they did replace my pitted windshield when they did the service. That sounds really high for a 1000 mile service.

grc · « **Reply #2 on:** March 10, 2014, 07:15:12 PM »

IF the dealer did the new bike prep that both Harley and most customers pay them for, the 1000 mile service is basically a fluid change and belt adjustment. Even at full retail prices for the filter and fluids, and an hour of labor, it's not close to being worth the $300 to $500 most dealerships charge. This is basically just another extra dealer profit item, and there is no valid reason other than greed to even have this service requirement. Did your car have a 1000 mile service requirement? No it didn't.

If you are a hands-on type with some basic skills, there is no reason you shouldn't do the service yourself. Keep the receipts for any parts and fluids, and document what you did and when you did it. If you aren't a hands-on guy, find a good local independent shop and see what they'll charge to do the service. I'm guessing most will charge less than half what your dealer charges. And don't fall for the BS that some will try to tell you about having to have the dealer do the service to maintain your warranty. That is patently false, as detailed in Federal warranty law.

Jerry

ultrafxr · « **Reply #3 on:** March 10, 2014, 07:48:15 PM »

I ~~imagine~~ am positive many others will disagree but I disregard the 1,000 mile service except for going over critical fastners, drive belt adjustment, etc. I don't change the fluids because, well because I simply do not think they are contaminated or worn out at 1,000 miles.

I faithfully did the 1,000 mile fluid changes up until I had 110 engine failures on both my '07 and then my '12 due to pizz poor moco lifters and inner cam bearings. When I got the replacement engines I just ran them until the regular 5,000 mile fluid change service interval.

Frankly I just do not think it makes a rat's azz worth of difference what with all the other problems these engines develop all too soon.

And I've had a total of three complete engine replacements due to premature component failure and I have never been asked at all about how I maintained the bike. It is pretty obvious when they tear the engine down if the oil has been changed regularly or not.

mjb765 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 10, 2014, 08:06:10 PM »

While I do change the fluids at the 1000 mile mark, there is no way it is worth what the dealer is quoting you. As said before, if you are mechanically inclined and save your receipts it's not that big of a deal to do it yourself.

doublerunner · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2014, 08:37:33 PM »

Fortunately my dealer threw in the 1K service for free with the purchase of the bike. But that $460 you are being charged is high. Some have downplayed the importance of this service and that is their opinion. Me, I know they do more than just fluids. So why do you think a 1K service is needed more than a car is? Think about the vibration on a Harley vs a car. Do you have a seat belt and air bags on your bike? Boy I'd hate to skimp on a few bucks and have it come back to bite me in the ass. When I got to 1,000 miles it was the 4th time I changed my oil and filter. I believe the first 500 - 1,000 miles is when you get the most particles in your fluids and filter. But that's just me and I don't mind spending a few extra dollars to keep my 30+K bike running clean and smooth

Vstrut · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2014, 09:12:45 PM »

I will be due for my 1k service on my CVO Ultra Limited after this week. I haven't called the dealer to get the price but I will be taking it to them for the service. I can turn a wrench and do a lot of work on my bikes myself, however, I am a big believer in taking them to the dealer for all of their service/maintenance needs. I also have a 2011 Street Glide w/18k miles on it and have taken it in for all scheduled service. I figure it will pay off if I ever have a serious problem and need the dealer to resolve it. I've gotten to know the service guys pretty well and they're nothing like the sales folks. I look at it like insurance. I don't agree with the price but pay it cause I don't want to get screwed if I ever need it. Just my two cents so take it for what it's worth.

skratch · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2014, 09:39:01 PM »

it isn't necessary for the dealer to do the 1000, or any, service. but for some strange reason, i always seem to take my bike in and let them do the first one for me. with the cvo, the dealer threw in the first service for me. but, what he did was give me a $300 gift card to use towards it. when i was ready to have it done, they couldn't get me scheduled in time, so i took the first available appt. they had and then changed my own fluids. when i brought it in for the service, i had them do everything else. ended up being about $100. so that left me with $200 to spend in the dealership

screaminCVO · « **Reply #8 on:** March 11, 2014, 02:23:23 AM »

Quote from: doublerunner on March 10, 2014, 08:37:33 PM

Fortunately my dealer threw in the 1K service for free with the purchase of the bike. But that $460 you are being charged is high. Some have downplayed the importance of this service and that is their opinion. Me, I know they do more than just fluids. So why do you think a 1K service is needed more than a car is? Think about the vibration on a Harley vs a car. Do you have a seat belt and air bags on your bike? Boy I'd hate to skimp on a few bucks and have it come back to bite me in the ass. When I got to 1,000 miles it was the 4th time I changed my oil and filter. I believe the first 500 - 1,000 miles is when you get the most particles in your fluids and filter. But that's just me and I don't mind spending a few extra dollars to keep my 30+K bike running clean and smooth

Amen doublerunner!

garretn · « **Reply #9 on:** March 11, 2014, 07:16:29 AM »

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I had all the services done by the dealer on my last Harley but not at those kind of prices. I called around to a couple of other local dealers and got prices between $300-350 and talking to them they all claim to be doing the same things. I think I will stop by the dealer and ask them face to face the price of the service maybe they quoted it wrong over the phone. I have no problem paying a reasonable (for Harley) amount for work but when it would cost me around $100 in parts and a couple of hours of my time for what they are charging close to $500 after taxes I don't see that being reasonable. I am assuming the tech actually goes over the bike really well and isn't having a bad day.

Thanks again.

dlaws01 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 11, 2014, 11:19:24 AM »

I am assuming the tech actually goes over the bike really well and isn't having a bad day.

Thanks again.
[/quote]

Remember what they say about "assuming" anything. Who is going to pay more attention to your bike, you or the least experienced service tech in the dealer's service department? I say the "least experienced" because they are the ones that usually get assigned these basic "services", oil changes, tire changes, etc. The more you personally take an interest in maintaining your bike, to the level you are confident and capable of, the better you and your bike will be. As said earlier, get a cheap ledger and document your maintenance. Be specific about what you did and even reference the service manual chapter and page. Put down your odometer reading and date and keep all your receipts together and organized. You do these things to provide an assurance of maintenance in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions so that warranty issues cannot be disputed. The bike must be maintained according to H-D's guidelines but nobody says that "they" have to do the servicing or maintenance.

hdaliaconis · « **Reply #11 on:** March 11, 2014, 01:24:50 PM »

Quote from: dlaws01 on March 11, 2014, 11:19:24 AM

I am assuming the tech actually goes over the bike really well and isn't having a bad day.

Thanks again.

Remember what they say about "assuming" anything. Who is going to pay more attention to your bike, you or the least experienced service tech in the dealer's service department? I say the "least experienced" because they are the ones that usually get assigned these basic "services", oil changes, tire changes, etc. The more you personally take an interest in maintaining your bike, to the level you are confident and capable of, the better you and your bike will be. As said earlier, get a cheap ledger and document your maintenance. Be specific about what you did and even reference the service manual chapter and page. Put down your odometer reading and date and keep all your receipts together and organized. You do these things to provide an assurance of maintenance in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions so that warranty issues cannot be disputed. The bike must be maintained according to H-D's guidelines but nobody says that "they" have to do the servicing or maintenance.

That's correct. There is no requirement nor can they deny you warranty coverage unless they do the service and use their products (oil etc) As mentioned, keep a record in the back of your owner's manual plus some notes etc. I agree, no one will maintain your motorcycle better than you. Take some time and with the money you save doing it yourself buy the correct tools (ie belt tension gauge) do the basic scheduled maintenance your self. Buy the maintenance and parts manuals. They have step by step instructions on how to do it. Ask other riders who do it them selves. When cleaning the motorcycle check for loose fasteners, lightly oil pivot points, look for wires that might be rubbing or getting pinched, take the seat off and look around, take the saddle bags off and do the same. Personally, when tires need replaced I take the wheels off and take them to the dealer for new tires and re install them. But, don't recommend that if you're not comfortable. Don't get in over your head. Little by little you will build confidence. I come from a generation that had a personal relationship with our motorcycles and did most if not all maintenance ourselves. I recognize that we are dealing with different machines and riders today and accept that.

screaminCVO · « **Reply #12 on:** March 11, 2014, 03:17:56 PM »

Quote from: hdaliaconis on March 11, 2014, 01:24:50 PM

That's correct. There is no requirement nor can they deny you warranty coverage unless they do the service and use their products (oil etc) As mentioned, keep a record in the back of your owner's manual plus some notes etc. I agree, no one will maintain your motorcycle better than you. Take some time and with the money you save doing it yourself buy the correct tools (ie belt tension gauge) do the basic scheduled maintenance your self. Buy the maintenance and parts manuals. They have step by step instructions on how to do it. Ask other riders who do it them selves. When cleaning the motorcycle check for loose fasteners, lightly oil pivot points, look for wires that might be rubbing or getting pinched, take the seat off and look around, take the saddle bags off and do the same. Personally, when tires need replaced I take the wheels off and take them to the dealer for new tires and re install them. But, don't recommend that if you're not comfortable. Don't get in over your head. Little by little you will build confidence. I come from a generation that had a personal relationship with our motorcycles and did most if not all maintenance ourselves. I recognize that we are dealing with different machines and riders today and accept that.

On my '03 Ultra - dealer doing the critical fastener check didn't check the allan screw for the tab going into the tranny. It had loosened off on a long ride and slipped a few teeth on the spline. Going down a hill into a switch back geared down and it didn't slow down had to rely on the brakes only!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was a $1500 cost as it is the first piece to go in the tranny. When I questioned them on it, they said it's not considered critical. It was damn near critical for me!!! Kinda lose faith in them..........

Rooster · « **Reply #13 on:** March 11, 2014, 03:19:38 PM »

I just hate when I do show up for some sort of real service the service dept is clogged up with people just there for an oil change.

FlaHeatWave · « **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2014, 06:26:10 PM »

Quote from: garretn on March 10, 2014, 05:57:57 PM

I understand the importance of maintaining the new ride but $460+tax for a 1k service... OOCH. I just wanted to get a feel for what everyone else does and what kind of money they spend on this service.

Being the first year of the Water Head, I would definitely pay the Dealer to do the 1k service, after that if you want to do the work yourself, or save a couple of bucks to have an Indy do it, just make sure that you keep a detailed log and receipts.
Keep in mind while you are saving a few bucks on servicing your new $40k CVO, How many Indys are up to date on the twin cooled bikes?

grc · « **Reply #15 on:** March 11, 2014, 07:25:37 PM »

Quote from: FlaHeatWave on March 11, 2014, 06:26:10 PM

Being the first year of the Water Head, I would definitely pay the Dealer to do the 1k service, after that if you want to do the work yourself, or save a couple of bucks to have an Indy do it, just make sure that you keep a detailed log and receipts.
Keep in mind while you are saving a few bucks on servicing your new $40k CVO, How many Indys are up to date on the twin cooled bikes?

You could also ask how many Harley service department employees are truly up to date on the twin cooled bikes. The answer is likely to be no better than the percentage for the indies. I've been in more than one dealership where the folks in service weren't fully knowledgeable about stuff Harley has had for a decade. You can still find plenty of dealer employees who are clueless when it comes to things like ABS and ETC for instance. And here's the kicker; the guy doing the 1k service is highly unlikely to be the top technician in the shop who actually got the new model training. This type of service is usually assigned to the least capable guy in the shop, not the most capable. Some places use these service interval jobs as a step up for the wash boy for pete's sake.

Is there anything on that 1k checklist specific to the water cooling system, other than the general tick point of checking the fluid level and visually inspecting for leaks that they use for things like the brakes and hydraulic clutch? I don't think it takes a graduate of H-D University (or even McDonald's University) to handle that kind of simple inspection. If a person can check the fluid level on their car, and look for puddles of green or orange or whatever color coolant is involved, then I'm pretty sure they can do the same on a Harley. It is most definitely not rocket science. And there is no guarantee that the guy at the dealership will actually check anything on that checklist. Many don't.

Anyway, my point is that using a simple cooling system to justify paying three times what the service is worth is false justification. If you enjoy being ripped off, then pay five hundred bucks for a simple fluid and filter change. Hell, throw in another hundred as a tip. Or, spend a hundred bucks on lubes and a filter, sixty bucks on a manual, and do it yourself. It's the only way you will know for sure what was and what wasn't actually done.

Jerry

grtguy657 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 11, 2014, 07:43:05 PM »

The Dealer covered my first service , came with the deal haven't had it done yet ,still have about 400 miles to go 13 limited. They said the usual cost is about 360.00 and I can watch them do the service. Panama City Harley, Panama City ,Fl.

FlaHeatWave · « **Reply #17 on:** March 11, 2014, 08:10:15 PM »

Quote from: grc on March 11, 2014, 07:25:37 PM

You could also ask how many Harley service department employees are truly up to date on the twin cooled bikes. The answer is likely to be no better than the percentage for the indies. I've been in more than one dealership where the folks in service weren't fully knowledgeable about stuff Harley has had for a decade. You can still find plenty of dealer employees who are clueless when it comes to things like ABS and ETC for instance. And here's the kicker; the guy doing the 1k service is highly unlikely to be the top technician in the shop who actually got the new model training. This type of service is usually assigned to the least capable guy in the shop, not the most capable. Some places use these service interval jobs as a step up for the wash boy for pete's sake.

Is there anything on that 1k checklist specific to the water cooling system, other than the general tick point of checking the fluid level and visually inspecting for leaks that they use for things like the brakes and hydraulic clutch? I don't think it takes a graduate of H-D University (or even McDonald's University) to handle that kind of simple inspection. If a person can check the fluid level on their car, and look for puddles of green or orange or whatever color coolant is involved, then I'm pretty sure they can do the same on a Harley. It is most definitely not rocket science. And there is no guarantee that the guy at the dealership will actually check anything on that checklist. Many don't.

Anyway, my point is that using a simple cooling system to justify paying three times what the service is worth is false justification. If you enjoy being ripped off, then pay five hundred bucks for a simple fluid and filter change. Hell, throw in another hundred as a tip. Or, spend a hundred bucks on lubes and a filter, sixty bucks on a manual, and do it yourself. It's the only way you will know for sure what was and what wasn't actually done.

Jerry

Jerry, you are 100% correct as usual. For me, paying the extra$ to have it done at my Dealer (a family run, single Dealership) has paid off many, many times over the years, I'm way ahead on this one!
Your results may vary...

garretn · « **Reply #18 on:** March 15, 2014, 08:07:40 AM »

Is there anything on that 1k checklist specific to the water cooling system, other than the general tick point of checking the fluid level and visually inspecting for leaks that they use for things like the brakes and hydraulic clutch? I don't think it takes a graduate of H-D University (or even McDonald's University) to handle that kind of simple inspection. If a person can check the fluid level on their car, and look for puddles of green or orange or whatever color coolant is involved, then I'm pretty sure they can do the same on a Harley. It is most definitely not rocket science. And there is no guarantee that the guy at the dealership will actually check anything on that checklist. Many don't.

Anyway, my point is that using a simple cooling system to justify paying three times what the service is worth is false justification. If you enjoy being ripped off, then pay five hundred bucks for a simple fluid and filter change. Hell, throw in another hundred as a tip. Or, spend a hundred bucks on lubes and a filter, sixty bucks on a manual, and do it yourself. It's the only way you will know for sure what was and what wasn't actually done.

Jerry
[/quote]

I picked up everything I need to do the service on the way home yesterday. I had a little time to look it over last night and everything I checked has been tight. Coolant level correct, Brake pads still good (really, I would hope so in 700 miles)

I need to put a few miles on it today and then do the fluid changes. Pull out the manual and look up the belt adjustment procedure i'm hoping it gives me some idea how much deflection I should have without using the special tool they sell. If not no big deal I am still $350 ahead at this point.

grc · « **Reply #19 on:** March 15, 2014, 09:06:37 AM »

I believe the belt spec remains the same as the 2012-2013 Touring models, 0.24"-0.44" measured midway between the trans and rear wheel sprockets while applying 10 pounds of force. The plastic belt guard has a window where the measurement should be taken.

Ten pounds of force doesn't sound like much, but unless you have a really tough finger it can be somewhat painful to achieve that force with a finger and hold it very long. To get an idea of how much it will take, find something around the house that weighs ten pounds and use a single finger to hold it up. You might prefer using a short hammer handle or something similar so that you can use your entire hand to press against the belt versus one finger. If you plan to continue doing your own maintenance I would recommend buying the tool though; they can be found on the 'net for around $20.

Jerry

hdaliaconis · « **Reply #20 on:** March 15, 2014, 04:03:02 PM »

Quote from: grc on March 11, 2014, 07:25:37 PM

You could also ask how many Harley service department employees are truly up to date on the twin cooled bikes. The answer is likely to be no better than the percentage for the indies. I've been in more than one dealership where the folks in service weren't fully knowledgeable about stuff Harley has had for a decade. You can still find plenty of dealer employees who are clueless when it comes to things like ABS and ETC for instance. And here's the kicker; the guy doing the 1k service is highly unlikely to be the top technician in the shop who actually got the new model training. This type of service is usually assigned to the least capable guy in the shop, not the most capable. Some places use these service interval jobs as a step up for the wash boy for pete's sake.

Is there anything on that 1k checklist specific to the water cooling system, other than the general tick point of checking the fluid level and visually inspecting for leaks that they use for things like the brakes and hydraulic clutch? I don't think it takes a graduate of H-D University (or even McDonald's University) to handle that kind of simple inspection. If a person can check the fluid level on their car, and look for puddles of green or orange or whatever color coolant is involved, then I'm pretty sure they can do the same on a Harley. It is most definitely not rocket science. And there is no guarantee that the guy at the dealership will actually check anything on that checklist. Many don't.

Anyway, my point is that using a simple cooling system to justify paying three times what the service is worth is false justification. If you enjoy being ripped off, then pay five hundred bucks for a simple fluid and filter change. Hell, throw in another hundred as a tip. Or, spend a hundred bucks on lubes and a filter, sixty bucks on a manual, and do it yourself. It's the only way you will know for sure what was and what wasn't actually done.

Jerry

X2

hdaliaconis · « **Reply #21 on:** March 15, 2014, 04:09:03 PM »

Quote from: grc on March 15, 2014, 09:06:37 AM

I believe the belt spec remains the same as the 2012-2013 Touring models, 0.24"-0.44" measured midway between the trans and rear wheel sprockets while applying 10 pounds of force. The plastic belt guard has a window where the measurement should be taken.

Ten pounds of force doesn't sound like much, but unless you have a really tough finger it can be somewhat painful to achieve that force with a finger and hold it very long. To get an idea of how much it will take, find something around the house that weighs ten pounds and use a single finger to hold it up. You might prefer using a short hammer handle or something similar so that you can use your entire hand to press against the belt versus one finger. If you plan to continue doing your own maintenance I would recommend buying the tool though; they can be found on the 'net for around $20.

Jerry

Buy the tool to check the belt. I will come in handy. My experience has been that once the initial adjustment is made I haven't had to do it again but use the tool to check the belt at regular intervals. Also since I remove and re-install my own wheels for new tires, I check the belt tension as part of the re-install. I have the belt tension cam marked but double check with the belt tension tool just to be sure.

grc · « **Reply #22 on:** March 15, 2014, 07:22:12 PM »

I agree, after the initial belt adjustment the belt seems to remain adjusted for a long time. A new belt has a thin layer of material that acts as a wear layer/lubricant for break-in as the belt beds in to the sprockets. Having that wear off during the initial break-in is what contributes the most to the need for readjustment at the first service, not any real "stretching" of the belt. But it still makes sense to check when you do your normal service just in case, and the tool makes that much easier.

Jerry

hdaliaconis · « **Reply #23 on:** March 16, 2014, 08:34:55 AM »

A good friend is retired from Gates Rubber (who he claims developed the cog belt) said that the Gates belts are good for 100K miles! Most miles I personally put on one belt was 60K. Don't know who makes the HD belts now. Most likely come from China.

garretn · « **Reply #24 on:** March 16, 2014, 10:23:05 AM »

Service was easy.. I do have a couple of basic questions.

1. Following the directions in the manual it doesn't say anything about filling the new oil filter with oil before installing it. I always have but didn't just simply because it didn't say to do it. Initial startup after oil change leads me to believe my decision to follow the manual was wrong since it made quite a bit of noise until the oil pressure picked up. 3 seconds maybe. Does everyone else prime the filters?

2. Transmission fluid check. The manual says screw it in until the seal touches and fill until it's between the lines. My Shop manual for the 09-SG says not to screw it in when checking which is correct? I added the amount of oil the manual says to put back in it and now if I check it screwed in its over full, not screwed in just right. What is the correct process for checking this?

Thanks in advance for the assistance.

grc · « **Reply #25 on:** March 16, 2014, 11:05:28 AM »

Since the filter is horizontal when installed you can't really fill it beforehand anyway. You can put a few ounces in it if you want, and I do, but it won't be enough to keep the oil pressure from not coming up for many seconds after starting the bike. If you have decent lifters that don't immediately leak down when you shut the bike off, the engine really shouldn't be significantly noisier when you first start it up after an oil change unless you rev it up. It isn't a problem, and it's been that way for as long as Harley has had oil filters mounted horizontally (a long time). If it really bothers you there is a relatively easy way to prime the system before you fire the engine up. Pull the sparkplugs, leave the ignition OFF, and use a simple jumper wire to energize the starter and let it turn the engine (and oil pump) over for ten seconds. Reinstall the plugs and wires, turn on the ignition and fire it up.

As for the trans fluid checking instructions, they made that change initially in 2012 for the Trikes, and followed that by changing it for all Big Twins for the 2013 model year. The specs for fluid fill are usually a range, like 28-32 ounces for an example. That usually means that a completely dry system requires 32 ounces, and one that has just had the fluid drained normally will require somewhere between 28 and 32 ounces depending on how well the system was drained. By adding less than the full amount and then using the dipstick to verify the level before topping off you can avoid overfilling. If it's only slightly over the full mark I wouldn't worry about it, but if it's a lot then you can use a small turkey baster type of device (or really big eyedropper) to suck the excess out. If you use the wife's turkey baster, I wouldn't let her know about it and it probably wouldn't be a good idea to put it back where you found it when you're done since trans lubes have some very nasty and hazardous stuff in them.

Jerry

garretn · « **Reply #26 on:** March 16, 2014, 11:15:49 AM »

Quote from: grc on March 16, 2014, 11:05:28 AM

If it really bothers you there is a relatively easy way to prime the system before you fire the engine up. Pull the sparkplugs, leave the ignition OFF, and use a simple jumper wire to energize the starter and let it turn the engine (and oil pump) over for ten seconds. Reinstall the plugs and wires, turn on the ignition and fire it up.

It doesn't bother me that much

As for the trans fluid checking instructions, they made that change initially in 2012 for the Trikes, and followed that by changing it for all Big Twins for the 2013 model year. The specs for fluid fill are usually a range, like 28-32 ounces for an example. That usually means that a completely dry system requires 32 ounces, and one that has just had the fluid drained normally will require somewhere between 28 and 32 ounces depending on how well the system was drained. By adding less than the full amount and then using the dipstick to verify the level before topping off you can avoid overfilling. If it's only slightly over the full mark I wouldn't worry about it, but if it's a lot then you can use a small turkey baster type of device (or really big eyedropper) to suck the excess out. If you use the wife's turkey baster, I wouldn't let her know about it and it probably wouldn't be a good idea to put it back where you found it when you're done since trans lubes have some very nasty and hazardous stuff in them.

Jerry

My wife has had a couple of funnels disappear over the years..

Its just slightly above the full. I will be more careful next round and not add what they say to put back. I did that with the oil and left it about 1/2 quart low..

Thanks again for the help with this basic stuff.

hdaliaconis · « **Reply #27 on:** March 16, 2014, 02:44:36 PM »

What is it with wives? Can't use the turkey baster, measuring cups, casserole dishes, etc. I was them out with brakes parts cleaner every time I use them!

sadunbar · « **Reply #28 on:** March 16, 2014, 03:49:29 PM »

Quote from: hdaliaconis on March 16, 2014, 02:44:36 PM

What is it with wives? Can't use the turkey baster, measuring cups, casserole dishes, etc. I was them out with brakes parts cleaner every time I use them!

Oh you can use them. You can even acquire them. You just can't let your wife into your tools and work space so she finds them.

hdaliaconis · « **Reply #29 on:** March 16, 2014, 04:36:43 PM »

Quote from: sadunbar on March 16, 2014, 03:49:29 PM

Oh you can use them. You can even acquire them. You just can't let your wife into your tools and work space so she finds them.

Amen on that! I have what I call sacrificial tools that I leave out where she can find them and keep my good tools out of sight.

ole bill · « **Reply #30 on:** March 18, 2014, 10:20:12 PM »

Ok, my 2 cents
Going for my 1000 mile service, dealer told me about $250 for the works, I told them I will do all the fluids myself and I wanted to know how much for the rest of the 1000 mile service. They told me about $102 would do it. I said I like it. Not a bad deal!!

sadunbar · « **Reply #31 on:** March 19, 2014, 07:37:35 AM »

Quote from: ole bill on March 18, 2014, 10:20:12 PM

Ok, my 2 cents
Going for my 1000 mile service, dealer told me about $250 for the works, I told them I will do all the fluids myself and I wanted to know how much for the rest of the 1000 mile service. They told me about $102 would do it. I said I like it. Not a bad deal!!

What services does $102 buy you?

DesertHOG · « **Reply #32 on:** March 19, 2014, 08:59:03 AM »

Quote from: newseultra07 on March 10, 2014, 07:00:06 PM

Damn. Mine was only around $300.00 or so. I've done my 1000 mile's myself in the past. Its mostly just fluid change out anyways.... But they did replace my pitted windshield when they did the service. That sounds really high for a 1000 mile service.

In my mind, the cost of maintenance goes with buying the bike. You either learn to wrench and service yourself or pay the piper. I purchased a prepaid service plan for around $2k. Over 45k miles later I am way ahead of that investment. Just signed up for my next 3 year prepaid service plan. Watch out 100k mi, I am on my way.

DH

dlaws01 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 19, 2014, 02:18:27 PM »

Quote from: sadunbar on March 19, 2014, 07:37:35 AM

What services does $102 buy you?

That's what the dealer charges you to park your bike inside and do nothing except call you later that day or the next day and tell you it's done.

SBB · « **Reply #34 on:** March 19, 2014, 02:31:52 PM »

Quote from: dlaws01 on March 19, 2014, 02:18:27 PM

That's what the dealer charges you to park your bike inside and do nothing except call you later that day or the next day and tell you it's done.

SBB

grc · « **Reply #35 on:** March 19, 2014, 02:47:08 PM »

Harley's service time standards call for approximately 2.2 hours labor to do the 1k service on a Touring model. That of course includes changing all the fluids, adjusting the belt, supposedly checking the torque on all the critical fasteners, and then all the BS items like checking to make sure all the lights and controls still work a week after they sold you the bike. IMHO, since they can do all the other items while waiting for the fluids to drain, it would be more realistic to say about 1.5 hours IF they actually do everything. And IF they really did everything and did it properly, I wouldn't begrudge them even the full 2 hours at whatever their labor rate is, even though the entire 1k service is not necessary and only exists as an extra profit item and CYA for Harley. If Harley built it right, and the dealer did the prep he is required to do by Harley before the sale, you shouldn't need to have a customer pay for them to recheck the same stuff a week or two later.

Anyhow, $250 to do the full service isn't something I'd call excessive (just unnecessary). But the crooks charging $400 to $500 are just that, crooks. It's real easy to figure out what it should cost if you take the time to calculate the retail price of the parts required (basically six quarts of oil, one oil filter, and a couple O-rings for the drain plugs), then 2 hours times the dealers listed hourly labor rate.

6 quarts SYN-3 $12.95 MSRP X 6 = $77.70
1 Superpremium Oil Filter $14.95
3 O-rings $0.98 MSRP X 3 = $ 2.94
TOTAL $95.59

2 hours labor @ $80/hour $160.00

Grand total less any tax $255.59

Jerry

blacktop · « **Reply #36 on:** March 19, 2014, 02:47:30 PM »

Quote from: dlaws01 on March 19, 2014, 02:18:27 PM

That's what the dealer charges you to park your bike inside and do nothing except call you later that day or the next day and tell you it's done.

Come on - they wash the bike as well.

garretn · « **Reply #37 on:** March 28, 2014, 11:15:11 AM »

Quote from: grc on March 19, 2014, 02:47:08 PM

Harley's service time standards call for approximately 2.2 hours labor to do the 1k service on a Touring model. That of course includes changing all the fluids, adjusting the belt, supposedly checking the torque on all the critical fasteners, and then all the BS items like checking to make sure all the lights and controls still work a week after they sold you the bike. IMHO, since they can do all the other items while waiting for the fluids to drain, it would be more realistic to say about 1.5 hours IF they actually do everything. And IF they really did everything and did it properly, I wouldn't begrudge them even the full 2 hours at whatever their labor rate is, even though the entire 1k service is not necessary and only exists as an extra profit item and CYA for Harley. If Harley built it right, and the dealer did the prep he is required to do by Harley before the sale, you shouldn't need to have a customer pay for them to recheck the same stuff a week or two later.

Anyhow, $250 to do the full service isn't something I'd call excessive (just unnecessary). But the crooks charging $400 to $500 are just that, crooks. It's real easy to figure out what it should cost if you take the time to calculate the retail price of the parts required (basically six quarts of oil, one oil filter, and a couple O-rings for the drain plugs), then 2 hours times the dealers listed hourly labor rate.

6 quarts SYN-3 $12.95 MSRP X 6 = $77.70
1 Superpremium Oil Filter $14.95
3 O-rings $0.98 MSRP X 3 = $ 2.94
TOTAL $95.59

2 hours labor @ $80/hour $160.00

Grand total less any tax $255.59

Jerry

Jerry your numbers make since. $300 I agree with but $450-500 has me doing my own services. All the other stuff they claim to do sounded like a way to justify the extra money. The service isn't hard but I would rather not do it.

Chief2505 · « **Reply #38 on:** March 28, 2014, 03:56:37 PM »

My dealer has always thrown the 1K service into the deal. I have never paid for one yet. That being said though I am going back to servicing my own bikes. Initially I did a lot of my own work, then I got spoiled and started taking it to the dealer for everything, thinking it would help me down the road someday. When my 12 had so many problems and they refused to admit to the problems being problems I started doing my own service work.

This winter I installed boom audio amp and speakers, IPOD interface, tons of chrome, changed wheels and replaced all of the gauges on my buddies 2010 Ultra.

I also installed the Fullsac kit on my 13 CVO and I have a great feeling of accomplishment. Kind of scary at first but like someone else said, confidence will come!

skratch · « **Reply #39 on:** March 28, 2014, 04:41:12 PM »

Quote from: blacktop on March 19, 2014, 02:47:30 PM

Come on - they scratch ~~wash~~ the bike as well.

fixed it for you

grtguy657 · « **Reply #40 on:** March 29, 2014, 09:04:58 AM »

Just had 1000 mile done , was told it was free but had to pay for syn. Oil , filter and new gasket for derby cover , bought new cover no charge to install since old one was already off. But how do you not include the o-rings and filter in withe the free Svc, I understood paying the diff in price of oil . Total was $126.00

grc · « **Reply #41 on:** March 29, 2014, 11:18:33 AM »

Quote from: grtguy657 on March 29, 2014, 09:04:58 AM

Just had 1000 mile done , was told it was free but had to pay for syn. Oil , filter and new gasket for derby cover , bought new cover no charge to install since old one was already off. But how do you not include the o-rings and filter in withe the free Svc, I understood paying the diff in price of oil . Total was $126.00

I hate to tell you but you didn't get a free service. If you look at the example I posted earlier you would see that the full retail price for the SYN3 and filter plus 3 O-rings is only $95 plus tax. And btw, you didn't need a new derby cover gasket, the original is reuseable unless the person changing it was ham fisted and damaged it. I think I'd have a chat with the person who originally told you the first service was free.

Jerry

dlaws01 · « **Reply #42 on:** March 29, 2014, 12:46:37 PM »

It's free. (just pay separate shipping, handling and processing)

grtguy657 · « **Reply #43 on:** March 29, 2014, 10:42:39 PM »

Don't do any good to talk they always got an excuse, I'll let my money talk on next bike purchase. Oldest son wants a SG Special , I'll get his perks in writing

robinswl · « **Reply #44 on:** April 29, 2014, 09:17:12 AM »

I purchased all the maintenance manuals, oil, filters, o-rings, etc. for significantly less than the cost for the 1000 mile service. I spent a couple of quality hours in my garage with the manuals and my tools, and completed the 1000 mile service. The fluids from the engine and transmission came out pretty clean but the primary chain case fluid was dark and there was a lot of small debris around the plug. I'm taking it in to the dealer next week for some warranty service (the heated hand grips don't work) so I will talk with one of the techs to see if this is typical. Everything else checked out. I'm glad I did the service myself because now I am much more familiar with the various components of my ride, and have a better idea of which tools to take with me when I go for an extended road trip.

casbar · « **Reply #45 on:** April 29, 2014, 09:23:29 AM »

In the UK the service isn't free. You have to get the dealer to do it, to maintain the warranty.

RonandJanet · « **Reply #46 on:** April 29, 2014, 09:26:58 AM »

I am planning on letting HD do the 1K service. My thinking is that this one is most critical for the warrenty and insuring HD can't say I didnt do something right later down the road. This is the first year for this technology and I a little worried something odd will happen since it is not proven yet. I am also going to have them fix the speed-o at the same time (off by 4 mph - yes this is odd already).

skratch · « **Reply #47 on:** April 29, 2014, 09:49:03 AM »

Quote from: RonandJanet on April 29, 2014, 09:26:58 AM

I am also going to have them fix the speed-o at the same time (off by 4 mph - yes this is odd already).

at what speed is it off? 4 mph at an indicated 70mph is about normal. 4 mph at indicated 20mph is not. i can save you some trouble, when you bring that up to the dealer, he's going to say, come on, say it with me, 'that's normal, they all do that'......

mnrider · « **Reply #48 on:** April 29, 2014, 01:59:42 PM »

Quote from: robinswl on April 29, 2014, 09:17:12 AM

I purchased all the maintenance manuals, oil, filters, o-rings, etc. for significantly less than the cost for the 1000 mile service. I spent a couple of quality hours in my garage with the manuals and my tools, and completed the 1000 mile service. The fluids from the engine and transmission came out pretty clean but the primary chain case fluid was dark and there was a lot of small debris around the plug. I'm taking it in to the dealer next week for some warranty service (the heated hand grips don't work) so I will talk with one of the techs to see if this is typical. Everything else checked out. I'm glad I did the service myself because now I am much more familiar with the various components of my ride, and have a better idea of which tools to take with me when I go for an extended road trip.

Let us know what you find out in regards to the primary.

RonandJanet · « **Reply #49 on:** April 30, 2014, 08:12:16 AM »

The speedometer atcually sits at 4 MPH when the bike is not moving. Then as the speed increases it is always about 4 mph off. I think if the speedometer was at 0 to begin with it would be OK. I have already told the dealer about the problem. I think since it is clearly off even when not moving HD won' be able to say "they all do this".

King2013 · « **Reply #50 on:** April 30, 2014, 01:52:34 PM »

Quote from: RonandJanet on April 30, 2014, 08:12:16 AM

The speedometer atcually sits at 4 MPH when the bike is not moving. Then as the speed increases it is always about 4 mph off. I think if the speedometer was at 0 to begin with it would be OK. I have already told the dealer about the problem. I think since it is clearly off even when not moving HD won' be able to say "they all do this".

No instead they'll tell you it's within spec.
Lol

hdaliaconis · « **Reply #51 on:** April 30, 2014, 02:02:32 PM »

Quote from: robinswl on April 29, 2014, 09:17:12 AM

I purchased all the maintenance manuals, oil, filters, o-rings, etc. for significantly less than the cost for the 1000 mile service. I spent a couple of quality hours in my garage with the manuals and my tools, and completed the 1000 mile service. The fluids from the engine and transmission came out pretty clean but the primary chain case fluid was dark and there was a lot of small debris around the plug. I'm taking it in to the dealer next week for some warranty service (the heated hand grips don't work) so I will talk with one of the techs to see if this is typical. Everything else checked out. I'm glad I did the service myself because now I am much more familiar with the various components of my ride, and have a better idea of which tools to take with me when I go for an extended road trip.

RonandJanet · « **Reply #52 on:** May 01, 2014, 07:53:25 AM »

I may get the "it's in spec". I have always done my own work on the bike (cars and boats) and I am waiting on the service manual to arrive with the extra section for my bike. I get satisfaction of knowing it was done according to "my" requirements. I will let you know what the dealer says about the speedometer.

ole bill · « **Reply #53 on:** May 02, 2014, 06:31:36 PM »

Just got a 1000 service done, I told them I did the fluids a couple of days ago, they did the filler neck recall notice (#0916) did a couple other items, fixed my heated grips, they were unplugged under the fairing, from the factory. And the total for the 1000 service was under $89.00. Not bad.

RonandJanet · « **Reply #54 on:** May 03, 2014, 05:23:15 PM »

The dealer said the Speedo was bad. A new one is on order and should be here in 7 to 10 days. We will see. I am glad this isn't something that stops me from riding!

Trans am · « **Reply #55 on:** May 04, 2014, 11:59:37 AM »

Quote from: ole bill on May 02, 2014, 06:31:36 PM

Just got a 1000 service done, I told them I did the fluids a couple of days ago, they did the filler neck recall notice (#0916) did a couple other items, fixed my heated grips, they were unplugged under the fairing, from the factory. And the total for the 1000 service was under $89.00. Not bad.

So the dealer doing the PDI. Apparently did not do their job very well. Kinda scary ain't it !!!!

RonandJanet · « **Reply #56 on:** May 05, 2014, 07:46:52 AM »

Actually it is worse than just that part. The bike had the wrong windshield and back rest installed. The tech had got parts from the wrong bike (a non-CVO)! The dealer corrected all that very quickly. I think the guy doing it must have been new. I sat on the bike before it was put togrther and we had to move pieces (all together). How he messed that up I am not sure. But, the good news is that was the only time I have ever had an issure so I put it up as a new tech and nobody is perfect.

Trans am · « **Reply #57 on:** May 05, 2014, 12:01:50 PM »

Good to know, Makes my eyes open when mine arrives...

robinswl · « **Reply #58 on:** May 05, 2014, 10:02:00 PM »

Quote from: MNrider on April 29, 2014, 01:59:42 PM

Let us know what you find out in regards to the primary.

Talked with the tech today regarding what I found in the primary chain case. He said as long as the debris around the plug was composed of very small particles, that was normal. He said if there are "hairs" in the oil then that's an indication that something is very wrong. Given how dark the oil was, I can see why they recommend changing it at 1000 miles. He also said to keep my 0-ring receipt as supporting evidence that the service was performed in case I ever need to use the warranty.

RonandJanet · « **Reply #59 on:** May 06, 2014, 12:35:10 PM »

I would (and do) keep all the receipts reflecting the oil, filter, etc. It helps show the whole job was done and with what types of products. I have also found value in having a log of all the work done. I keep the date, miles and a drescirption. This log hand in hand with the receipts tells a pretty good story. This is also handy when you go to sell the bike.

dkl032 · « **Reply #60 on:** May 20, 2014, 11:12:43 AM »

do it yourself!! learn a little about your bike, you will be glad you did. then take the $$ you save and buy a nice accessory.

RonandJanet · « **Reply #61 on:** May 20, 2014, 12:55:47 PM »

A quick update on the Speed-o replacement. The dealer got the part and installed it in 2.0 hours. Everything now works perfectly!

I do agree with what everyone says that it is good to work on your bike. At the least do the basic things. You learn more about your bike and you may identify potencial issues earlier.

Nano · « **Reply #62 on:** May 23, 2014, 11:08:26 AM »

Going to have dealer do 1k service. Final dyno tune done then (already paid for). Hoping for improved gas mileage and a little more power.

Dr.D · « **Reply #63 on:** June 09, 2014, 01:05:13 PM »

Just had the 1K service done and paid nothing as agreed at the purchase. I do not WANT to work on my bike. I do prefer to do the cleaning and detailing myself because I know my technique is superior to theirs. BTW when I traded the old bike they asked about the service record and I was able to show all service done at another dealer.

I would recommend any one purchasing a new bike to get all the numbers down and then leverage the 1K service at the dealer cost as the last concession "just to make you feel good".

Author Topic: 1000 Mile Service - Pay the dealer or not to do this service? (Read 16546 times)

King2013