Topic: Chrome head bolt bridge (Read 10042 times)

blown302 · « **on:** February 16, 2009, 02:28:53 PM »

Anyone have any experience with these? I purchased them and installed only to notice spark plug not centered in hole. So did some grinding to get the boot on the plug! I do have the front cover on the front and rear on rear.
With the right angle plug boot it fits but seems a straight boot would fit better. Any info would be appreciated.
Also, should I be concerned about added heat to the head with these? 2008 FXDSE
Thanks

Twolanerider · « **Reply #1 on:** February 16, 2009, 02:34:54 PM »

I don't remember anyone reporting any problem using the cylinder head bridges on newer bikes. Just checked the P&A website and it doesn't report any fitment distinctions for new models either. The bridges are specific to front or back cylinder though. They're marked on the rear of each bridge which cylinder they're for.

erniezap · « **Reply #2 on:** February 16, 2009, 02:38:18 PM »

If I remember correctly, the chrome bridges also come with a warning not to be used with lowers due to heat issues...

Twolanerider · « **Reply #3 on:** February 16, 2009, 02:41:21 PM »

Quote from: erniezap on February 16, 2009, 02:38:18 PM

If I remember correctly, the chrome bridges also come with a warning not to be used with lowers due to heat issues...

Ernie, if memory serves correctly they come with the warning but no explanation. Heat difference was just the only answer any of us could ever come up with that made any sense. Having said that a bunch of use have them installed. For miles and miles.

Also have some vague recollection that the chrome bridges with their entirely different shape didn't have the restriction; only the finned bridges. Would have to look to confirm that though.

blown302 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 16, 2009, 02:44:18 PM »

My set came with no warning-what are you refering to with lowers?

Twolanerider · « **Reply #5 on:** February 16, 2009, 02:46:46 PM »

Quote from: blown302 on February 16, 2009, 02:44:18 PM

My set came with no warning-what are you refering to with lowers?

Perhaps the warnings have been dropped? There used to be a note in the fitment description on at least the finned head bolt bridges that they shouldn't be used on bikes with fairing lowers.

I seem to remember, however, that there was no warning on the chrome bridges. If the feeble memory is any good that would explain yours not coming with the warning.

Gone Fishin' · « **Reply #6 on:** February 16, 2009, 02:47:09 PM »

Quote from: blown302 on February 16, 2009, 02:28:53 PM

Anyone have any experience with these? I purchased them and installed only to notice spark plug not centered in hole. So did some grinding to get the boot on the plug! I do have the front cover on the front and rear on rear.
With the right angle plug boot it fits but seems a straight boot would fit better. Any info would be appreciated.
Also, should I be concerned about added heat to the head with these? 2008 FXDSE
Thanks

I use the Chrome Headbolt Bridge on the '07 SERK. No warnings, no problems whatsoever (well that a though statement for an '07), like the looks of them. Have not yet decided what to do on the '09 SEUC though.

Ride safely,
Louis

Twolanerider · « **Reply #7 on:** February 16, 2009, 02:52:02 PM »

Quote from: Louis on February 16, 2009, 02:47:09 PM

I use the Chrome Headbolt Bridge on the '07 SERK. No warnings, no problems whatsoever (well that a though statement for an '07), like the looks of them. Have not yet decided what to do on the '09 SEUC though.

Ride safely,
Louis

Same ones on the Road Glide Louis. They were always actually my preference of the bridge types. Though I do have the finned bridges on the red bike. They were chosen just to complete the visual field though. What with the powder coating, diamond cutting and the cut outs I had to do for the compression releases guess they're not quite stock bridges anymore though

.

blown302 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 16, 2009, 02:56:53 PM »

Don't know if the 110 is different but could not get plug wire on without grinding hole larger.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #9 on:** February 16, 2009, 03:00:30 PM »

Quote from: blown302 on February 16, 2009, 02:56:53 PM

Don't know if the 110 is different but could not get plug wire on without grinding hole larger.

I'm not even sure they'll go on reversed. But did you make sure they were correctly on either the front or rear cylinder?

blown302 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 16, 2009, 03:02:01 PM »

Absolutely checked that, yes.

SERK3 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 16, 2009, 03:26:14 PM »

I had to do some grinding on the ones i put on my 07 SERK (110) as well, the boot was tight and was afraid that the bridge would cut into it, had on for a year or so with no problems.

Gone Fishin' · « **Reply #12 on:** February 16, 2009, 03:28:54 PM »

Quote from: blown302 on February 16, 2009, 02:56:53 PM

Don't know if the 110 is different but could not get plug wire on without grinding hole larger.

My '07 SERK, pictured above, has a 110 engine. As I said, fitted without any problem.

@Twolane
Had the finned version on the '05 SEEG. Was looking good with the light grey color of the engine and matching finned bridges. With the black engine on the '07 SERK I liked the chrome of the headbolt bridges best. Now on the '09 I am undecided ;-). By the way yours, with all those treatments, should really deserve a different part number ;-)

Ride safely,
Louis

ryr8828dj · « **Reply #13 on:** February 16, 2009, 03:41:24 PM »

I had the same issue on my 110. Holes are not centered. Had to force plug wire on. Didn't grind on the cover though. I think they will fit better with the straight wires. They won't go on backwards... I tried that to see if it would fix the problem.

blown302 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 16, 2009, 04:29:28 PM »

Also I'm hoping there won't be any spark arching from the boot to the bridge because the boot is stuffed tight against it-any feedback?

blown302 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 16, 2009, 04:31:32 PM »

Just want to thank everyone for all the info-

ryr8828dj · « **Reply #16 on:** February 16, 2009, 04:39:15 PM »

I've been watching mine closely and haven't seen any arching. Gonna put some SE wires on later with straight boot.

spydglide · « **Reply #17 on:** February 16, 2009, 04:56:41 PM »

It would seem that the finned ones like 2Lane have would actually cause more heat to dissipate if anything......can't see why they had the disclaimer on them, but I do remember putting them back on the shelf due to reading it on the box. spyder

Buy early · « **Reply #18 on:** February 16, 2009, 06:05:50 PM »

Got em on the WG2. Never had any issues with them.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #19 on:** February 16, 2009, 10:28:00 PM »

Quote from: blown302 on February 16, 2009, 04:31:32 PM

Just want to thank everyone for all the info-

Unfortunately didn't look like anyone actually helped with the problem you're encountering other than to perhaps eliminate a few potential worries or ideas. Were you able to relieve the rubbing area in such a way that you don't see the missing chrome? Or did the work have to be visually obvious?

Twolanerider · « **Reply #20 on:** February 16, 2009, 10:29:25 PM »

Quote from: Louis on February 16, 2009, 03:28:54 PM

My '07 SERK, pictured above, has a 110 engine. As I said, fitted without any problem.

@Twolane
Had the finned version on the '05 SEEG. Was looking good with the light grey color of the engine and matching finned bridges. With the black engine on the '07 SERK I liked the chrome of the headbolt bridges best. Now on the '09 I am undecided ;-). By the way yours, with all those treatments, should really deserve a different part number ;-)

Ride safely,
Louis

Could not agree more on the black motors Louis. Have seen two side by side. One with the black bridges and one with the chrome. On that dark motor the contrast of the chrome bridge looks much much better (at least to me).

SERK3 · « **Reply #21 on:** February 17, 2009, 08:52:16 AM »

Quote from: Twolanerider on February 16, 2009, 10:28:00 PM

Unfortunately didn't look like anyone actually helped with the problem you're encountering other than to perhaps eliminate a few potential worries or ideas. Were you able to relieve the rubbing area in such a way that you don't see the missing chrome? Or did the work have to be visually obvious?

OH NO DON"T SCRATCH THE CHROME

, What little bit of grinding i done was on the back side' on the first one i did get into the chrome just a little at the bottom

, but the spark plug boot covers it. No one knows about it but me

Twolanerider · « **Reply #22 on:** February 17, 2009, 08:54:49 AM »

Quote from: SERK3 on February 17, 2009, 08:52:16 AM

OH NO DON"T SCRATCH THE CHROME , What little bit of grinding i done was on the back side' on the first one i did get into the chrome just a little at the bottom , but the spark plug boot covers it. No one knows about it but me

If the surface area of the chrome now has an open edge I'd suggest at least considering one idea. Take the bridge back off and cover the area you ground with clear nail polish. If not you'll eventually get moisture or oil vapor migration (or both) under the chrome. Pitting and/or peeling will happen much sooner than it otherwise would have.

spydglide · « **Reply #23 on:** February 17, 2009, 08:58:14 AM »

Quote from: Twolanerider on February 17, 2009, 08:54:49 AM

If the surface area of the chrome now has an open edge I'd suggest at least considering one idea. Take the bridge back off and cover the area you ground with clear nail polish. If not you'll eventually get moisture or oil vapor migration (or both) under the chrome. Pitting and/or peeling will happen much sooner than it otherwise would have.

Or some 'high temp' paint (clear, if you've got it) to seal the area....not sure nail polish will hold up in that area. $:-\$ spyder

Twolanerider · « **Reply #24 on:** February 17, 2009, 09:00:19 AM »

Quote from: spydglide on February 17, 2009, 08:58:14 AM

Or some 'high temp' paint (clear, if you've got it) to seal the area....not sure nail polish will hold up in that area. $:-\$ spyder

Yeah, what Spyder said. He's smarter than me so pay attention to him.

I've used clear nail polish on chrome edges that have needed to be "contoured" for years because it's so hard. But didn't think about how it would hold up right against the engine.

spydglide · « **Reply #25 on:** February 17, 2009, 09:04:43 AM »

Quote from: Twolanerider on February 17, 2009, 09:00:19 AM

Yeah, what Spyder said. He's smarter than me so pay attention to him.

Yeah right!

If I was so smart, how come I invested in HD & Sat. Radio common stock?

har! spyder

SERK3 · « **Reply #26 on:** February 17, 2009, 09:12:27 AM »

I didn't use nail polish, It was some product i picked up at a chrome shop when i had my Freightliner. The chrome lighted strips that run from the back of the sleeper to the hood on a Freightliner are very cheap and they would chip and bubble if one could catch it in time it would stop or slow down the bubbling.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #27 on:** February 17, 2009, 09:51:16 AM »

Quote from: spydglide on February 17, 2009, 09:04:43 AM

Yeah right! If I was so smart, how come I invested in HD & Sat. Radio common stock? har! spyder

Nobody nails it every time Spyder. Not enough Holiday Inn Express rooms for everyone.

Author Topic: Chrome head bolt bridge (Read 10042 times)