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CVO Social => Off Topic => Topic started by: 49445CVO on September 03, 2013, 11:50:46 PM
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Last fall I fell upon a great deal on a 2 year old 7' X 14' V-nose trailer. I wanted to add my touches and so I started to look into floor covering. I've researched here as well as asked for information. After much research I decided to go with a newer product made for wood, Deck Restore (http://rustoleumrestore.com). I decided on this product due to the seasons we have here in Michigan. Vinyl flooring in squares would not work well for me due to the humidity as well as just being wet and slippery. Regular floor paints with epoxy would not work for the same seasons. Regular latex paint even with sand would need touching up from time to time. This restore is 10 times thicker than normal latex paint and comes with a special roller and grit already mixed in. I looked into Home Depot's Deck Over and they said that it was only 4 times thicker than latex paint and is not near a thick as Restore.
So I decided to share some pics of the project
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/hy2avedy.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/ype9ezyj.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/9yha4adu.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/ezumuheq.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/u7aze9en.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/gabyhuve.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/tujapane.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/unydamuh.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/4u3y9abu.jpg)
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Note: the pics are in order and some will show the paint wet and when you scroll down you will see it dry.
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In this next set you will see that I took some painters tape and had taped off the area where the aluminum flap comes down to meet the ramp. I did this so that area would not show wear in the painted area or cause some sort of peeling. Also you will notice my little oops that I found when I was closing the ramp. It seemed like it wasn't closing all the way and that is when I discovered that I should not have painted the area that meets the trailer floor. There is very little clearance in this area so I had to scrape off a small amount to give me clearance. You can also see how thick the product is and I did the recommended two coats.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/a4a2uzun.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/azu5agyb.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/qyhateqy.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/ypedu5es.jpg)
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All in all I believe that this floor will now offer great traction for loading bikes or what ever and will last a very long time. I was considering Line X but when they quoted me $1,500.00 to do it I ran back to Home Depot for this stuff and spent $140.00 ish and did it myself.
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Here are some other pics of what I did to freshen up the tongue area. I used that spray on undercoating.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/6yhy7e9u.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/3aqu6apu.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/ygehanub.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/aqy3ahez.jpg)
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Looks Great !!! Good luck hope it holds up for a long time.
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Be sure and update in about a year, always looking for improvements and would love to know if it stands the test of time. Do you use it a lot? Frequent use would tell the story quickly.
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How well do you think the product would work on my double wide snowmobile sized trailer? It uses (2) 4x8 sheets of plywood for the floor. I guess I overloaded it as the top looks fine but when I looked underneath while greasing the wheel bearings I could see where the tires ate away at the underside plywood leaving it very thin. So I need to get the plywood and re-use the stainless steel hardware to hold it down. The trailer is Galvanized so it has been holding up well for a variety of task. I have the frame drilled & taped to fit my Wheel dock if needed. It is always outside, unprotected.
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Be sure and update in about a year, always looking for improvements and would love to know if it stands the test of time. Do you use it a lot? Frequent use would tell the story quickly.
Unfortunately I do not use it much at all. I have hopes of using it for taking a southward trip during our Michigan winters. I will keep this post updated as I use it.
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How well do you think the product would work on my double wide snowmobile sized trailer? It uses (2) 4x8 sheets of plywood for the floor. I guess I overloaded it as the top looks fine but when I looked underneath while greasing the wheel bearings I could see where the tires ate away at the underside plywood leaving it very thin. So I need to get the plywood and re-use the stainless steel hardware to hold it down. The trailer is Galvanized so it has been holding up well for a variety of task. I have the frame drilled & taped to fit my Wheel dock if needed. It is always outside, unprotected.
Because this stuff is like Line X I'd say it would work well to protect the wood. If you have any oil marks on the wood your painting I'd use a degreaser first and let it dry for a day or so. They say while putting the second coat on you can smooth the surface by using a paint brush. Check you tube, there are videos about this. I was worried that it might be too rough of a surface so I bought a foam roller too. I was going to wet it and roll it to a smooth coat if need be. I'm please with the way it turned out using the special Restore roller.
I have a buddy that has a trailer very similar to what you are describing and he is looking at using Restore too. He keeps the trailer outside too and we are thinking a dark color would be best. We also think that a pressure washer would prolly be the best way to clean it. Although a leaf blower might work too.
BTW I was at Menards and saw that Pittsburgh Paints has a product too.
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Good idea...real nice look.
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Your picture from the rear showing the flap up.
I can tell you from experience, that if the bike is far enough back and you go over the right roads (in this case Rt 95 though NYC), the bike and ramp can move and actually time it so the the bike will move up a bit and the ramp will too, in perfect sequence so the bike will come down on the flap.
I have since added 2 small cleats to the door that catch the flap as the door goes up.
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Your picture from the rear showing the flap up.
I can tell you from experience, that if the bike is far enough back and you go over the right roads (in this case Rt 95 though NYC), the bike and ramp can move and actually time it so the the bike will move up a bit and the ramp will too, in perfect sequence so the bike will come down on the flap.
I have since added 2 small cleats to the door that catch the flap as the door goes up.
I'd like to see what you are talking about. I don't want any oh craps.
Rick
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I'd like to see what you are talking about. I don't want any oh craps.
Rick
pics will have to wait until next week.
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Really nice improvement over the plain wood floor. I like the gray color. Good job.
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pics will have to wait until next week.
I think I understand what you are saying. The aluminum flap that covers the ramp hinge area.... that can move and go under the bikes rear fender when traveling. So to hold it tight to the ramp when folded up you are using small cleats...?
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Really nice improvement over the plain wood floor. I like the gray color. Good job.
Thank you :)
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I think I understand what you are saying. The aluminum flap that covers the ramp hinge area.... that can move and go under the bikes rear fender when traveling. So to hold it tight to the ramp when folded up you are using small cleats...?
Correct
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/17/duvuvymu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/17/y8una7e3.jpg)
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That is a great idea. Thanks for the pics... I'm gonna check out the hardware store to see if I can come up with something like it for mine. :2vrolijk_21:
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Home Depot, 2" wide piece of flat stock aluminum. Nothing fancy.
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That is a great idea. Thanks for the pics... I'm gonna check out the hardware store to see if I can come up with something like it for mine. :2vrolijk_21:
Just seen how crappy the pics were, if you need something better I'll do a daylight pic. That was the night before MV, no lights.
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Can you sweep the floor clean with a broom?
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Sorry for not getting back in a timely matter. Yes you can but a faster way would be use a leaf blower
Rick
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Looks great!
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Thank You very much. :2vrolijk_21:
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Nice work on the floor. Curious to find out how it is holding up since completion. I live in Michigan as well, and looking for something more permanent. Thanks
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I know I'm digging deep here but, I am about ready to use Home Depot Deckover on mine. Same stuff only different. Anybody have any words of wisdom?
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A friend used a paint on product last fall, goes on just like paint, he was all jazzed up on how good it was going to look. It was a deck restore that he got from Home Depot.
Saw the deck and stairs a couple weeks ago. Looks like he never did it.
Not knowing the product name really helps you.
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Floor looks nice. If the trailer is a few years old and has a plywood floor you should put a bright light inside the trailer some night, close the door and get underneath the trailer to see if you can see light in any of the seams or along the wall joints. Recently suggested this to a buddy who assured me his, new to him, Featherlite would be totally sealed. When we did the test it took two tubes of black 3M Silicone Caulk to seal up all the seams that were leaking light out, which means water in while driving in the rain. I did my Pace when it was new this way and have, so far, never had to go back over it.
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If it doesn't hold up in the cold/heat and humidity the next time you might want to consider what they use in all of the Grand Design Momentum toyhauler garages (and many other mfgs. also). I toured the factory a few days ago and got to see this product on the roll and actually going on a garage floor......looks like it's easy to work with.
https://www.recpro.com/8-6-nickel-pattern-rv-flooring-black/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwy97qBRDoARIsAITONTJiZ-sfLmeRBiyQi-z2fl5wBKlYzNXj42LvOD5K-6qUalLE44T2z1kaAoZdEALw_wcB
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ALL the trailer manufacturers that I know of will install nickel rubber in new trailers for a modest upgrade fee. Lots of brands out there. Brother-n-law has it in a 48' Outlaw Race trailer, has held up well. I've had it factory installed in a couple M/C trailers I sold and it is good. If installing over existing flooring proper prep is essential as the original floor needs to be pretty smooth for successful bonding. If you've never installed a one-piece floor covering in a trailer it's a pretty good job. Strongly suggest you buy lay-out paper and cut it to fit first, then lay that on the flooring and cut it out. M/C Trailers are NOT Square and you don't want gaps down the sides were the walls are not straight.
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I had purchased a diamond plate floor covering from Home Depot. Measured, cut placed, trimmed, and was ready to install when I figured out it expanded and contracted way too much to out down with e-tract in top. I have returned it and am looking at Monstaliner now. It is a truck bed liner product. They have more colors than you could shake a stick at and, it is temp tested to something like 150'. Waiting on color samples now.
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In 2006 I had Rhinoliner spray my trailer floor and walls.
1/4” on the floor, 1/8” up to 18” on the walls.
I was also hauling around lawn equipment for a couple years, frequently hosing out the trailer.
Still looks good