Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[RedFXR2]

....as it turns out...a 1970 Ford Bronco Rear brake light switch will in fact work; only deal is it has to be the hydraulic style switch and he didn't tell me that...But it does work 

Unbelievable.   So heck, ask the guy for any other domestic auto parts replacements.  I'm sure they're a lot cheaper than the HD parts.

...Red has been posting on that thread (yes, me too)that gets folks blood boiling and he's forgotten about us down here  . Calling Red...Calling Red....Come back to earth Red 

Don't worry, I'm back to earth.  Some parts of this board truly are like another planet.  I stood in front of my mirror and swore that I would never again visit any pages here other than this one.  I tried to be objective, presenting both sides, showing that the nature of politics of both parties is to say whatever it takes to get favor long enough to get votes.  It's all about power, sadly.  All it got in return instead of reasonable discussion was barbed comments to the messenger.

I tell you, it's hard to have moderate, objective political beliefs in a land controlled by two extreme parties.

Now, back to CVO FXR topics and glad of it.

[Bullwinkle]

>> 2)  Replace the FXR2 forks with FXR4 forks and run two rotors with the "twin cam" styled 2 piston brake calipers which would also mean changing the front wheel.

Not necessarily.  I have an older FXR-SP and thought about putting on Dyna Sport cartridge forks for better handling.  I talked to several dealers about this and they all said that the -only- difference (at least on the 39mm front ends) between the pre- and post-2000 models was the location of the caliper mount bosses.

If that is accurate, then you can buy a post-2000 lower fork leg and newer caliper, bolt them on and go.  Just make sure your wheel end play is OK using the right spacers.

If this is inappropriate, please forgive me and move this or delete it:  I have two new Hawghalter four piston chrome calipers (right & left) for pre-1999 forks and they -will- work with spoke wheels, if anyone needs them.  HHI makes a set specifically for use with spoke wheels.

Bullwinkle
1999 FXR3
1993 FXR-SP

I just like FXRs, what can I say.

[FXR2evo99]

2)  Replace the FXR2 forks with FXR4 forks and run two rotors with the "twin cam" styled 2 piston brake calipers which would also mean changing the front wheel.

Not necessarily.

Bullwinkle, thanks for the correction 

Regards,

Tim

[Bullwinkle]

I'm fairly certain that the newer fork sliders will work on the older fork tubes and more particularly with the older wheels, but you might want to check with a good mechanic before you take the plunge.  I'll bet the folks at Hawghalters, Performance Machine, or Race Tech would know.

I'm not all that fired up with HD stealership mechanics.  I had one tell me one time that carb jets were special order and that HD did not sell them.  He said I had to find them at Drag Specialties dealers, etc.

Sigh....

BTW, aren't the Twinkie calipers four piston?


Bullwinkle

2)  Replace the FXR2 forks with FXR4 forks and run two rotors with the "twin cam" styled 2 piston brake calipers which would also mean changing the front wheel.

Not necessarily.

Bullwinkle, thanks for the correction 

Regards,

Tim

[fxr4mikey]

Here is the other thing that comes to mind while discussing this topic, our FXR2's and FXR3's and FXR4's have the lowest ground clearance of the previous FXR's built during the 1982-1994 years....which means the lean angles are significantly reduced which of course keeps one from entering the corners to a certain degree [no pun intended lol] at excessive speeds anyway....at least from a 'cornering' perspective.....I realize this....so does this enter anyone's mind also in determining what would be the "best" when determining the type of "caliper" to actually use?  Yes I realize that braking encompasses much more than "flowing" through corners and the such...

I would assume that most of you are quite satisfied with your OEM braking set up since this hasn't been a topic of discussion for the most part.....

Any other ideas or thoughts on the matter?  What do you guys think or have you thought about it really at all?

Regards,

Tim

While I've scraped the pegs flat on my bike (not bragging, just that sometimes I miss judged the curve) .. the only time that I have really noticed and felt that I needed more ground clearance on the FXR4 is in tight switch backs that dip/drop/descend in the switchback.   

This summer I was going a lil hot into a switch back (left then right) and no problem in the left, but then the road dropped down on the switch back to the right and I was over so far that I was dragging the mounting bracket for the exhaust system. The bottom of the bracket and the bottom of the front pipe are all scrapped up now.  While I was in the turn I could feel the bike becoming un-weighted, fortunately for me there was no car coming the other way. I got off the throttle a lil bit and I stood the bike up, crossed over the line, gave it a bit of throttle, laid it back down and got around the corner.  I can tell you this, my heart rate was quite elevated, and I was riding quite a bit slower for the next 15 miles to regain some composure......

As far as braking, the dual setup on the FXR4 is OUTSTANDING (IMHO).  The one draw back to it is that when running hot into a curve hard braking causes excessive nose dive on the bike.  I've been thinking about finding a change in the front end to reduce the nose dive while hard braking.  Stopping power, the bike has it, even with just the stock setup.

[FXR2evo99]

As far as braking, the dual setup on the FXR4 is OUTSTANDING (IMHO).  The one draw back to it is that when running hot into a curve hard braking causes excessive nose dive on the bike.  I've been thinking about finding a change in the front end to reduce the nose dive while hard braking.  Stopping power, the bike has it, even with just the stock setup.

Mikey....

Before you change your front end.....have you thought about changing your fork oil first, to say, Bel~Ray 20w and while 10 oz is the normal amount to put in perhaps putting in 10.5 oz in to see if you can help with that nose dive.....and if that doesn't work....then maybe some new progressive springs for $80.00 or so then back with the fork oil.....so far with this suggestion you would only be spending about $110.00 or so....and "less" of course if you discover that by simply altering your fork oil to 20w does the "trick".

Keep us posted.....

(I can't remember if you had or have already changed your fork oil) but I would certainly start there to see if a "solution" could be found.....I can tell you that my 2002 RKC doesn't "nose" dive with that huge front end on it and I have Bel~Ray 20W fork oil in those forks as well....granted, a RKC is not an FXR4, but the RKC is a very heavy front end and you can still put that bike into some curves....I bet Hoist will chime in here with the fork set up he is wanting to use....ummmm $1,100 or so...cha ching....lol

Remove old fork oil....put in 10.00oz to 11 oz of Bel~Ray 20w Fork Oil.  Personally I did mine this spring and put in 10 oz into each fork.  Of course this maintenance can be done easily by yourself and because you have "chrome" fork caps which are seen you might think about a special fork cap nut remover that has an o~ring on the inside to keep from scratching the fork caps...here is one you can get for around $24.00 shipped to you:

$21.50
  Part # 08-0139  HD FORK CAP SOCKET

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/fork_cap_nut_socket_for_h-d/

Motion Pro, Inc.
867 American Street
San Carlos, CA 94070
Tel: 650.594.9600   Fax: 650.594.9610
web: www.motionpro.com

Hours of Operation:
M-F 8am - 5pm PST

Jim's Tools makes one of these as well part# 2244

Regards,

Tim

[fxr4mikey]

As far as braking, the dual setup on the FXR4 is OUTSTANDING (IMHO).  The one draw back to it is that when running hot into a curve hard braking causes excessive nose dive on the bike.  I've been thinking about finding a change in the front end to reduce the nose dive while hard braking.  Stopping power, the bike has it, even with just the stock setup.

Mikey....

Before you change your front end.....have you thought about changing your fork oil first, to say, Bel~Ray 20w and while 10 oz is the normal amount to put in perhaps putting in 10.5 oz in to see if you can help with that nose dive.....and if that doesn't work....then maybe some new progressive springs for $80.00 or so then back with the fork oil.....so far with this suggestion you would only be spending about $110.00 or so....and "less" of course if you discover that by simply altering your fork oil to 20w does the "trick".

Keep us posted.....

(I can't remember if you had or have already changed your fork oil) but I would certainly start there to see if a "solution" could be found.....I can tell you that my 2002 RKC doesn't "nose" dive with that huge front end on it and I have Bel~Ray 20W fork oil in those forks as well....granted, a RKC is not an FXR4, but the RKC is a very heavy front end and you can still put that bike into some curves....I bet Hoist will chime in here with the fork set up he is wanting to use....ummmm $1,100 or so...cha ching....lol

Remove old fork oil....put in 10.00oz to 11 oz of Bel~Ray 20w Fork Oil.  Personally I did mine this spring and put in 10 oz into each fork.  Of course this maintenance can be done easily by yourself and because you have "chrome" fork caps which are seen you might think about a special fork cap nut remover that has an o~ring on the inside to keep from scratching the fork caps...here is one you can get for around $24.00 shipped to you:

$21.50
  Part # 08-0139  HD FORK CAP SOCKET

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/fork_cap_nut_socket_for_h-d/

Motion Pro, Inc.
867 American Street
San Carlos, CA 94070
Tel: 650.594.9600   Fax: 650.594.9610
web: www.motionpro.com

Hours of Operation:
M-F 8am - 5pm PST

Jim's Tools makes one of these as well part# 2244

Regards,

Tim

Tim,
Haven't changed the fork oil, but will this Dec. when I do the build.  I'll use your recommendation.  I have considered putting in progressive (brand name) wound springs. Then I was told that the FXR4 already has progressive wound springs in the forks  ??  Can anyone confirm the stock internal components of the front forks ?

Thanks again for your help !!

Mikey

[Hoist!]

I agree it's a lil more responsive with the heavier oil, and use heavier PJ1 Fork Oil. But the capacity is 9.2 oz each. I don't overfill. It can cause leaks at the fork seals. Traxxion AK-20's of course, is eventually the REAL solution!

Hoist!