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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin' Eagle® Road King® => Topic started by: Dan_Lockwood on July 23, 2007, 12:39:43 PM
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After looking into the Power Commander system, they show two different units.
PC III USB EX is the "street" controller and does not control mapping less than 40% throttle and less than 4500 rpms.
The PC III USB listed as the race unit, seems to be able to control everything.
So for my new '08 SERK, which PC III would everyone recommend???
Thanks.
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After looking into the Power Commander system, they show two different units.
PC III USB EX is the "street" controller and does not control mapping less than 40% throttle and less than 4500 rpms.
The PC III USB listed as the race unit, seems to be able to control everything.
So for my new '08 SERK, which PC III would everyone recommend???
Thanks.
They should have named that thing Power Commander Lite. Get the full blown PCIII USB, unless you live in CA, then the Lite is for you.
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After looking into the Power Commander system, they show two different units.
PC III USB EX is the "street" controller and does not control mapping less than 40% throttle and less than 4500 rpms.
The PC III USB listed as the race unit, seems to be able to control everything.
So for my new '08 SERK, which PC III would everyone recommend???
Thanks.
Dan,
Pretend like the "EX" doesn't exist, since it is only there to appease the EPA folks. If you want to richen up the low speed and cruise mixture, both for driveability and cooling, you want the so-called race unit and the O2 sensor eliminators.
Jerry
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A third vote for the full blown PCIII USB unit. The other one is almost worthless as you spend most of your driving time below the 30% throttle position.
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Just put the PCIII USB on my serk a couple of weeks ago. No problems at all and running great, if only the base map m812-025.
Another 500 miles and then a full dyno and Houston will have to do a countdown every time I go out !
:2vrolijk_21:
Nige
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A third vote for the full blown PCIII USB unit. The other one is almost worthless as you spend most of your driving time below the 30% throttle position.
Thanks to all for the replies.
After looking at the EX version and the lack of control in the <40% range and <4500 rpm's, I thought why even use it...
I've already ordered a V&H Dresser Dual header setup and their Oval slip-on's. I've also gone the wider AC filter for the Sreaming Eagle AC. So with those and the PCM III USB, I should be all set. Oh yeah, O2 eliminators as well, don't they come with the PCM III USB kit?
I think all I'll need to do is download the software from their site and then the appropriate map for my setup, which I think was the second one down on the mapping list.
I plan on doing all this right at the get go on the new bike when it arrives. With the new mapping and running a bit cooler, I imagine it should really help during breakin rather than hinder.
At the time of my 1000 mile check up I can have it dyno'd or just keep riding with the map for the setup, right?
Thanks again all for the information.
Dan
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Thanks to all for the replies.
After looking at the EX version and the lack of control in the <40% range and <4500 rpm's, I thought why even use it...
I've already ordered a V&H Dresser Dual header setup and their Oval slip-on's. I've also gone the wider AC filter for the Sreaming Eagle AC. So with those and the PCM III USB, I should be all set. Oh yeah, O2 eliminators as well, don't they come with the PCM III USB kit?
I think all I'll need to do is download the software from their site and then the appropriate map for my setup, which I think was the second one down on the mapping list.
I plan on doing all this right at the get go on the new bike when it arrives. With the new mapping and running a bit cooler, I imagine it should really help during breakin rather than hinder.
At the time of my 1000 mile check up I can have it dyno'd or just keep riding with the map for the setup, right?
Thanks again all for the information.
Dan
Dan, having it it setup properly, right from the beginning, can only help things. A drop in map is all you can do to break it in. But get it tuned and have a custom map made for your engine at the 1K Service. Tuning's the most important thing you can do to these engines! ;) Hoist! 8)
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Thanks to all for the replies.
After looking at the EX version and the lack of control in the <40% range and <4500 rpm's, I thought why even use it...
I've already ordered a V&H Dresser Dual header setup and their Oval slip-on's. I've also gone the wider AC filter for the Sreaming Eagle AC. So with those and the PCM III USB, I should be all set. Oh yeah, O2 eliminators as well, don't they come with the PCM III USB kit?
I think all I'll need to do is download the software from their site and then the appropriate map for my setup, which I think was the second one down on the mapping list.
I plan on doing all this right at the get go on the new bike when it arrives. With the new mapping and running a bit cooler, I imagine it should really help during breakin rather than hinder.
At the time of my 1000 mile check up I can have it dyno'd or just keep riding with the map for the setup, right?
Thanks again all for the information.
Dan
Yes they do Dan.
and
Yes you can do either, but I think any of the good ole boys in here will recommend that you get your baby properly Dynoed at a thousand miles.
Nige
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Dan, having it it setup properly, right from the beginning, can only help things. A drop in map is all you can do to break it in. But get it tuned and have a custom map made for your engine at the 1K Service. Tuning's the most important thing you can do to these engines! ;) Hoist! 8)
Goldarn it Howie - you are fast man !
:P
Nige