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[dano]

I'm changing the compensator on my 09 CVO ROAD GLIDE. Does anyone know how to remove the old stator? Thanks in advance Dano

[MrSurly]

It's a bit of a chore. In fact, it's a really good reason to buy the shop manual for your bike.
The steps are more than I want to type, but the info is out there. You can find youtube videos of the whole process.
You will need a few 'special' tools, and patience. Once the primary chain and the compensator assembly has been removed it's really simple after that.
You REALLY should have the manual on hand before tearing this apart. (my opinion)

[dano]

I have the shop manual and have the old comp off, just can't get the stator off. The manual says to pull it off with 2 hands. Is it the magnet holding or am I missing something in the manual?

[MrSurly]

The rotor is covering the stator and the rotor's magnets make it very difficult to pull away from the stator.

The stator is bolted to the engine case and the rotor slips over it but the rotor has a bunch of really stout magnets in it which are very strong.
Jim's sells a tool to make it easier but you can thread a couple of bolts into the tapped holes in the rotor. DON"T run them more than a few threads in, then grasp the screws and pull it away being careful not to let the magnets 'slam' it back into place.

[Ghost__Rider]

I presume you are talking about the rotor and not the stator. The magnet is tough sucker. They actually make a tool to assist pulling it off. Its possible to damage a magnet if you let it slip and pull itself back on. The stator has about 6 screws holding it on. This is the tool I use, from JP cycles.

[MrSurly]

What he said. here's another version of a tool for rotor pulling

[dano]

Looks like the inner primary has to come off so the rotor will clear the case to get it off

[MrSurly]

No, it doesn't.
ironically, tho, if you went ahead and pulled the inner primary you wouldn't need the tool at all as you'd be able to just grip it with your hand.

 Try this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8yF423yz5I

[Twolanerider]

Looks like the inner primary has to come off so the rotor will clear the case to get it off

This is only anecdotal.  So don't take it as gospel.  I've removed a few of the 06 and up stators and never had to remove the inner primary for the R&R.  Having said that have read of several instances where guys said they had to.  This included guys whose patience/skills were those I'd trust to know for sure what they were seeing.  Don't know if there's a difference in inner primaries over the years or (and this wouldn't surprise me from Harley at all) a slight casting variation that causes this on some and doesn't on others; but yours is not the first that's been discussed with this issue.

[Ghost__Rider]

Some of the inner primary cases have a lip that won't allow the rotor to come past far enough to be removed. I may be wrong but my 2010 limited it wouldn't come past the lip. Either way, it takes about 30 minutes more to just remove the inner case.

[MrSurly]

Another thing to consider: the rotor has internal teeth that engage the spline on the shaft. The teeth can become damaged causing the rotor to jam on the shaft. It is supposed to be a slip fit over the spline. Examine the fit there to see if the teeth and the spline could be galled. Look for heat discoloration.

[dano]

Mine is hitting the case on the bottom corner so the inner will have to come off.  Does the starter come with the case or does it get removed first?

[Twolanerider]

Mine is hitting the case on the bottom corner so the inner will have to come off.  Does the starter come with the case or does it get removed first?

If the clutch is already out of the way can't think of any reason starter couldn't come off with the housing.  But with cables attached and whatever else might be in the way I'd unscrew the two bolts and leave it there.  Pretty sure it'd be easier to leave it there rather than take it out with the inner primary.

[dano]

I will have to pull the clutch yet.  Any tips on how to get it off. I've only taken one off a non hydraulic and the manual I have doesn't show hydraulic

[sadunbar]

This is only anecdotal.  So don't take it as gospel.  I've removed a few of the 06 and up stators and never had to remove the inner primary for the R&R.  Having said that have read of several instances where guys said they had to.  This included guys whose patience/skills were those I'd trust to know for sure what they were seeing.  Don't know if there's a difference in inner primaries over the years or (and this wouldn't surprise me from Harley at all) a slight casting variation that causes this on some and doesn't on others; but yours is not the first that's been discussed with this issue.

I've had it go both ways.  It's a close fit either way.  On my personal bike, I cannot remove the rotor without removing the inner primary, but other bikes of the same vintage, I've been able to remove the rotor while leaving the inner primary in place.