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[Rhoarke]

Greetings, all! Experienced rider, new bike, first time poster. I have had my 2020 CVO TriGlide a little over a week, and have found many ‘new’ features since my 2003 UltraClassic and FatBoy days... and have also found a few annoyances. Let me lead my question by asking that this NOT become a discussion over kill switch vs ignition switch (as a CVO forum, I’d hope that we could avoid that anyway). SOOOO... I want to have the option to pull into a parking lot or home and kill the engine **without also losing stereo, lights, phone call, intercoms, etc. I just want to stop the engine when it’s 100 degrees out and leave everything else going **without interruption. It baffles me that HD apparently didn’t think of this? I am aware of the clutch-side accessory button, and the option to start that mode after ‘killing’ the bike, but everything is interrupted. Maybe an option (?) like tapping accessory button 3x before hitting kill switch, etc. Any aftermarket solutions for killing engine directly to accessory ON mode?  I have searched the forum for this info- apologies if I’ve missed the answer. So much new stuff to learn!! Looking forward to contributing here. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[ParadigmGuy]

I'm not familiar with trikes. But you don't have a kill button on right? I kill my RG this way when I get fuel, but leave the stereo playing.

[VaEagle]

First welcome to the website!

I don't have a concrete answer for you because I haven't read of someone doing what you are asking. I would have to guess the factory doesn't allow you to kill the motor and leave all the electronics on due to the fact the battery could not handle the drain for long and could leave you stranded.
But maybe one of the mechanics or custom guru's on this site will respond soon to mods they have done. My guess is you would need to separate the starting system and it's battery then run a separate set of batteries to power all the electronics???

[Rhoarke]

Thx for the quick replies. Kill button is all there is on CVO tourings. Uses key fob to replace “ignition” — No option to *not* use kill button to stop engine. To stop engine, and by extension, there’s no way to leave accessories on through an engine stop event (like on the electra, we could kill engine, but leave ignition switched on and with that you keep all lights, radio, nav, etc until you turned off that second “ignition” switch). No such thing now- only kill switch which shuts it all down at once.

Re: battery drain- I agree that’s the right design and why they do it that way so you don’t leave crap on and drain battery- but it’d be no worse than choosing (or switching) to run in accessory mode. 5m-20m should be fine so long as one is aware. Still— if I **want** to knowingly drop from engine to battery, then I think there should be a way to do that (esp since we had that option (between the two switches) on older machines. 

[grc]

If you're looking to just keep the infotainment system running, try this.  Hold the trigger switch on the left hand control module down, then press the run/stop switch to off.  I seem to remember someone saying that would leave the system running without interruption.

Give it a try and let us know if it works.  I may just be delusional and having a senior moment, remembering things that don't exist.

Jerry

[iski]

If you're looking to just keep the infotainment system running, try this.  Hold the trigger switch on the left hand control module down, then press the run/stop switch to off.  I seem to remember someone saying that would leave the system running without interruption.

Give it a try and let us know if it works.  I may just be delusional and having a senior moment, remembering things that don't exist.

Jerry

Yes that was posted.  Tried it just now on my 2017 CVO Limited - the radio turned off.  Might work on the GTS, not sure.

[HOGMIKE]

If you're looking to just keep the infotainment system running, try this.  Hold the trigger switch on the left hand control module down, then press the run/stop switch to off.  I seem to remember someone saying that would leave the system running without interruption.

Give it a try and let us know if it works.  I may just be delusional and having a senior moment, remembering things that don't exist.

Jerry

On a cvo, if the stop/run switch is “on” and you hold the trigger switch down it will reset the odo to zero on whatever trip setting you are on.
If you hit the kill switch and then hit the trigger switch it takes about a second to come back on but you lost your CarPlay/blue tooth connection and it reboots
Same if you push the kill switch on, connect the phone, etc and everything is working THEN hit the starter button, it will loose connection and take a few minutes to connect everything again. At least this is what’s happening to my system. 2019 cvo limited
 

[OBB]

Stand on the rear brake, let the clutch out slowly in gear to stall it 

[naitram]

Stand on the rear brake, let the clutch out slowly in gear to stall it 

i was thinking the same thing, but there should be a documented way to do it

[Rhoarke]

I was really hoping it wouldn’t come to “stall it”, but here we are!     Any negative implications of using that method occasionally ( besides risk to front fender )??

[iski]

You got the obvious one.  Motor not quite dead, bike lurches forward, all bad from that point.  There should be another way to do this as Naitram said.

[grc]

Perhaps Harley doesn't want to encourage people to leave their infotainment system running with the engine off because the electrical system isn't robust enough to handle it   I've looked at a new model owners manual and Boom manual, and haven't come across a single reference to doing what the OP wants.  Now I wonder if that is on purpose, or just another of the many "oversights" Harley is famous for.

Rather than use the stomp on the brake until the engine stalls technique, wire an old fashioned kill switch into the fuel pump circuit.  Killing the engine that way will keep ALL the other electrical stuff operating including the lights.  It will also drain the battery much quicker, so don't linger listening to the audio or using the phone apps.

Jerry

[iski]

Agree with Jerry on not leaving the radio on for long without the engine running.  I plug up to a battery tender as soon as I get off the bike. 

Not willing to try this to see but am guessing the battery would get very weak in less than an hour.  If somebody has tried this it would be interesting to know.

If I am in the garage working on the bike & want to hear some tunes from the bike radio I hit the ACC switch & the bike is on the tender.

[Rhoarke]

We might have a winner! I’d only use this solution (or any ACC run for that matter) for the odd 10m “need” unless on tender as mentioned. This appears (for now) to be the best option, with the worst potential side effect of an embarrassing “no start” event in the Wendy’s parking lot if switch is off  🤣 I think I’ll give this option a shot when I can bring myself to cut open my brand new wiring zip ties... BTW, the heated grips on the FLHTCUTGSE sometimes get “nudged” on by accident. Will wire a matching console hard switch on those at the same time.  Thx Jerry!

——————-
“Rather than use the stomp on the brake until the engine stalls technique, wire an old fashioned kill switch into the fuel pump circuit.  Killing the engine that way will keep ALL the other electrical stuff operating including the lights.  It will also drain the battery much quicker, so don't linger listening to the audio or using the phone apps. ”

[RivRaptor]

I've tested my batteries' endurance to well over an 1/2 hour of playing the stereo (Stock) last year at a Vet's Memorial Ride in the parking lot. (Had friends that would jump me if needed) Started it a couple of times to check for a slow start all was fine.  Individual results will depend on your batteries' condition (mine was 2 Years old at the time and spends its idle time on a trickle) My battery is currently 3 years old and showing no signs of weakness.

I hate having to remember to press that button after turning off the motor to keep the stereo playing & GPS booted while getting gas etc.  (there is a cut off & delay but as long as you get to it fast enough it comes back and holds boot) Because once you lose the boot it takes forever to reboot and your riding now while messin with buttons (better done while sitting) when we should be paying attention to riding. (Especially when riding with a group and you have to leave sometimes on a moments notice)

On the OP's original inquiry, it should be possible (and not that difficult) to find the trigger wire to the head unit (which should also trigger all the amps and associated modules) and run a wire to a constant 12v source though a switch which then could be turned on before shut down and leave the system running.

[grc]

I've tested my batteries' endurance to well over an 1/2 hour of playing the stereo (Stock) last year at a Vet's Memorial Ride in the parking lot. (Had friends that would jump me if needed) Started it a couple of times to check for a slow start all was fine.  Individual results will depend on your batteries' condition (mine was 2 Years old at the time and spends its idle time on a trickle) My battery is currently 3 years old and showing no signs of weakness.

--------------------------------------------

The OP specifically mentioned leaving everything powered up, including the lights.  That will draw the battery down much faster than just running the audio system in accessory mode.  So for his specific situation, I wouldn't be comfortable doing it for more than one traffic light cycle.  Either that or keep a fully charged spare battery in a saddlebag.

Jerry

[grc]

Greetings, all! Experienced rider, new bike, first time poster. I have had my 2020 CVO TriGlide a little over a week, and have found many ‘new’ features since my 2003 UltraClassic and FatBoy days... and have also found a few annoyances. Let me lead my question by asking that this NOT become a discussion over kill switch vs ignition switch (as a CVO forum, I’d hope that we could avoid that anyway). SOOOO... I want to have the option to pull into a parking lot or home and kill the engine **without also losing stereo, lights, phone call, intercoms, etc. I just want to stop the engine when it’s 100 degrees out and leave everything else going **without interruption. It baffles me that HD apparently didn’t think of this? I am aware of the clutch-side accessory button, and the option to start that mode after ‘killing’ the bike, but everything is interrupted. Maybe an option (?) like tapping accessory button 3x before hitting kill switch, etc. Any aftermarket solutions for killing engine directly to accessory ON mode?  I have searched the forum for this info- apologies if I’ve missed the answer. So much new stuff to learn!! Looking forward to contributing here. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Since it appears Harley didn't make what you're asking for available, it might be more effective to just add cooling fans, one to cool the engine and another to cool the rider.  Harley sells the second type to cool the passengers  https://www.harley-davidson.com/store/coolflow-fan  and the aftermarket sells various types to cool the engine.  You can also make use of the EITC system to shut down one cylinder at idle when ambient temperatures are high enough to trigger the system.  The manual should have a section describing the system and how to enable or disable it.  Just a thought.

Jerry

[RivRaptor]

Since I seemed to have missed a key point of the "lights" on let me interject another scenario.  Last year I left the top of Mount Evens on my CVO above 14K feet the highest paved road in America and right after leaving the parking lot I popped it in neutral and shut the bike off and coasted almost all the way down including the switch backs I was not going very fast, just enough to not fall over and was enjoying the scenery.  Found something out...the engine turns off but the rest of the systems still work until after you come to a complete stop for at least 10 plus seconds maybe more.  The stereo, lights and antilock brakes all functioned normally.  I've coasted like this for at least 15 plus min with no issues and have done this in a few other places.  So the battery can handle a short draw time.  Hope this helps 

Also there might not be an aftermarket solution available but this is doable.  The right person (might start with a good stereo guy) can find the proper connection points to fab up a switch to keep all of the OP's functions working, this is not rocket science. 

[OBB]

We're all over thinking this. Non cvo bikes have a manual switch but can be programmed to function like a switch less bike with a digital tech. If you're willing to give up the power fork lock (maybe) to have a regular ignition switch put in, I'm sure the dealer will be happy to charge you for the work.

Sent from my boring Droid phone.

[Twolanerider]

We're all over thinking this. Non cvo bikes have a manual switch but can be programmed to function like a switch less bike with a digital tech. If you're willing to give up the power fork lock (maybe) to have a regular ignition switch put in, I'm sure the dealer will be happy to charge you for the work.

Sent from my boring Droid phone.

Standard old manual switch wouldn't communicate over the CAN bus.  It's not just one wire/one task on the bus.

[OBB]

Standard old manual switch wouldn't communicate over the CAN bus.  It's not just one wire/one task on the bus.

They still have the manual switch on the other bikes which all run can bus. Replace the cvo switch with a standard one and flash the bike.

[grc]

I noticed that when I was looking up something in a 2020 Trike manual, still had the old style ignition switch and knob. Also the old style security fob.  For some reason I had thought they replaced all of them with the new system after 2014, but it turns out I was wrong.

I'd be interested in knowing if the old style switch would keep the new infotainment system fired up without interruption as you flip it to accessory mode. There is a very short interrupt when switching from ON to ACC which didn't bother the old style audio systems, but the new system seems to not tolerate any such short interrupt.  If it did you could hit the Stop switch and the Trigger switch immediately afterward and everything would keep running.  And of course it wouldn't keep the lights on like the OP wants.  But this thread is good, it's educating me and I bet some others about the new system.

Jerry

[Twolanerider]

They still have the manual switch on the other bikes which all run can bus. Replace the cvo switch with a standard one and flash the bike.

Learning new things (in the age of Coronavirus).  I did not know that ^ .  Thanks.

[BigLew55]

I'd be interested in knowing if the old style switch would keep the new infotainment system fired up without interruption as you flip it to accessory mode.

Jerry

I usually don't shut down completely for shorter stops (most fuel stops fall into this category).  I have a FLHTK, so it's the older style with the Lock/Off/Ignition/Acc switch.  Often, I just kill using Run/Stop, fuel, Bio if needed, and fire it back up.  Yes, I often leave my lights on when I go into the bldg.  LEDs are awesome!!  I also turn them off by switching to ACC mode, depending on my mood/thought process at the moment.  Everything stays booted when this happens.  I think with the CAN system, there is the lack of mechanically switching that you are describing above, so it's a non issue.

I find that every few stops, it helps to shut down completely to reboot too.

[iski]

I find that every few stops, it helps to shut down completely to reboot too.

I only take 1 pair of boots with me when I ride.

[RoadGlide20]

One option may be to turn the handlebar to the lock position and then turn the switch to the lock position.  I will try this on my RG when I get a chance to see if that works.

[Phreakyz]

I only take 1 pair of boots with me when I ride.