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[REGGAB]

It's getting to be about that time for me.  I'm just a little leary of the Lyndall Z Pads.  I'm hearing they wear quick, squeal, and turn rotors black.  Any truth to that?  Have also heard that Traxxion Dynamics had a few sets of LASER cut brake pads, but from what I've read here, they're mighty hard to come by.  Not too sure I want to replace with stock pads, so I'd appreciate some advice about GOOD alternative brake pads.  Thanks.

[hd-dude]

I have sold and installed dozens of sets of the Z pads without any complaints from customers, many of them from the site as well. I also have them on my own bike with no issues at all.




Except that the stop better and don't leave all the nasty brake dust all over the wheels....

[Fired00d]

I have sold and installed dozens of sets of the Z pads without any complaints from customers, many of them from the site as well. I also have them on my own bike with no issues at all.




Except that the stop better and don't leave all the nasty brake dust all over the wheels....

I'll second that. I have been very happy w/them over the stock pads.

Henry that's the first I've ever heard of the problem(s) you mentioned concerning the Lyndalls.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Boatman]

Again, I use Lyndall Z's with none of the mentioned problems by Henry.  Would never go back to the stock pads.  Even your front and rear brake levers have a firmer feel-I assume from the backing plate of the pads not flexing.

[Midnight Rider]

I've been running them since last April without any issue at all.  No dust, more effective stopping power (better friction coefecient)...I've got 8+ K on them now and will be checking for wear in the next couple of weeks.  I've not heard or read of any problems with the Lyndals...

The Traxxion pads are excellent, but Max only got 6 sets for HD stock calipers, and does not know about getting more.  He was working with a company out of Japan on these, mostly for Wings, but was considering the HD market, thus the 6 sets.  I have tested them personally on Traxxion's demo Wing, and the difference in stopping power is VERY significant.  Ask Chief.

[grc]

...................................  I'm just a little leary of the Lyndall Z Pads.  I'm hearing they wear quick, squeal, and turn rotors black.  Any truth to that?  ..........................................................

First I've ever heard any of that.  So far mine are quieter than stock, seem to be wearing fine, and no discoloration or other damage to the rotors.  Much better "feel" than stock, much less dust on wheels.  The Lyndall's will be an automatic post-purchase upgrade on any future bike purchase for me (didn't bother to wear out the stock junk first, just threw them in the weeds).  Perhaps the information you have is for the other version of the Lyndalls, not the "Z" street pads.

Jerry

[spydglide]

Very happy w/ the Lyndall Pads on the front of the SEEG.....Haven't put on the rear, since I very rarely use the rear brakes.  I'd give them a big improvement all around compared to the stock pads.  spyder

[Twolanerider]

Henry, you might be confusing some of the quirks of the all out race pad with the standard Z pad.  Get the Lyndalls.  They'll last great.  They spread very very little dust compared to the stockers you're used to cleaning up after now.  They stop great.  They are one less thing to worry about.

[porthole]

It's getting to be about that time for me.  I'm just a little leary of the Lyndall Z Pads.  I'm hearing they wear quick, squeal, and turn rotors black.  Any truth to that?  Have also heard that Traxxion Dynamics had a few sets of LASER cut brake pads, but from what I've read here, they're mighty hard to come by.  Not too sure I want to replace with stock pads, so I'd appreciate some advice about GOOD alternative brake pads.  Thanks.

I replaced my pads with the Lyndalls at about 15000 miles. Stock pads were about 1/2 worn.

No squeal that I have noticed.

They did turn my rotors darker, significantly.

No comment on the wear, to soon to tell, have about 9000 on them.

Brake lever "seems" to require more effort to apply.

Didn't see any difference in stopping ability. Actually, I think they require more effort and don't grab as well as what I took off.

[spydglide]

I replaced my pads with the Lyndalls at about 15000 miles. Stock pads were about 1/2 worn.

No squeal that I have noticed.

They did turn my rotors darker, significantly.

No comment on the wear, to soon to tell, have about 9000 on them.

Brake lever "seems" to require more effort to apply.

Didn't see any difference in stopping ability. Actually, I think they require more effort and don't grab as well as what I took off.

Hey Duane, sounds like you put the racing pads on.  spyder

[REGGAB]

Henry, you might be confusing some of the quirks of the all out race pad with the standard Z pad.  Get the Lyndalls.  They'll last great.  They spread very very little dust compared to the stockers you're used to cleaning up after now.  They stop great.  They are one less thing to worry about.

Yep.  That's it.  Alrighty Then.  No race pads.

[Steve_G]

I put the Lyndall Z pads on my Heritage, I'm very satisfied with them.  No squeel and better braking.

[REGGAB]

Ordered three sets of Z Plus pads today.  I like their guarantee, so we'll see how this goes.

[MikeD]

Ok i'm sold on the pads, going to have them replaced when the wheels get swapped next Friday, but what's the difference between the z's and the gold, well besides the price...

[grc]

Ok i'm sold on the pads, going to have them replaced when the wheels get swapped next Friday, but what's the difference between the z's and the gold, well besides the price...

The "gold" pads are a harder version of the (carbon/kevlar) pad compound that is more suited to racing use.  They require a break-in period to seat properly (burnish) to the rotors, and they work better when hot.  The "Z" pads are a different version of the compound that has been optimized for street use, slightly "softer", with no special break-in period.  The "Z" is easier on the rotors, stops better when cold, and is quieter.  I'm guessing that the people who are unhappy with noise, performance, and rotor wear/discoloration issues used the "gold" compound.

BTW - LRB has a good tech article on cleaning your calipers that you may want to check out.  The H-D calipers don't have a secondary piston seal to keep trash out of the caliper bores, and after relatively low miles you will find that the pistons tend to stick (thanks to tons of brake dust from the stock pads).  Their article explains and shows an excellent method for cleaning and "tuning up" your calipers.

Jerry

[MikeD]

Now that you mention that, it seems that every bike I hd that i have owned has had some brake hoise that could probably come from the calipers being clogged.  I guess I 'll shop for calipers, dammit this is going to be an expensive work order if i do everything... but it's chrome.  I guess pm or hogpro is recommended for calipers.

[Midnight Rider]

Now that you mention that, it seems that every bike I hd that i have owned has had some brake hoise that could probably come from the calipers being clogged.  I guess I 'll shop for calipers, dammit this is going to be an expensive work order if i do everything... but it's chrome.  I guess pm or hogpro is recommended for calipers.

Mike...I have the PM 4 piston, differential bore calipers all around on my SEUC and have been happy thus far with the performance.  HogPro's are excellent as well, from all reports.  And of course, Brembo's...but they require a bracket, from my understanding.

With the PM's and the Lyndal Z pads, my front brakes are literally a two finger operation now, and the rear has a better, more progressive "feel" to it as well.  I have small hands too, so the two finger deal says a lot for someone who wears a size small men's glove.

[MikeD]

thanks tc, so four in the front and whats in the rear another four or six piston?

[REGGAB]

The "gold" pads are a harder version of the (carbon/kevlar) pad compound that is more suited to racing use.  They require a break-in period to seat properly (burnish) to the rotors, and they work better when hot.  The "Z" pads are a different version of the compound that has been optimized for street use, slightly "softer", with no special break-in period.  The "Z" is easier on the rotors, stops better when cold, and is quieter.  I'm guessing that the people who are unhappy with noise, performance, and rotor wear/discoloration issues used the "gold" compound.

BTW - LRB has a good tech article on cleaning your calipers that you may want to check out.  The H-D calipers don't have a secondary piston seal to keep trash out of the caliper bores, and after relatively low miles you will find that the pistons tend to stick (thanks to tons of brake dust from the stock pads).  Their article explains and shows an excellent method for cleaning and "tuning up" your calipers.
Jerry

Yeah Jerry, saw and read that article.  I'll be performing that procedure when I replace my pads.  They referred to front calipers only.  My assumption is I'll have to remove the rear caliper to clean it out as well.  That'll be a trick.   

[porthole]

Yeah Jerry, saw and read that article. 

Anyone have this article?

[Midnight Rider]

thanks tc, so four in the front and whats in the rear another four or six piston?

Another four....that is all I felt was necessary back there, and it does very well.  I personally think the two fours are enough on the front as well.  If I were going to a single front rotor to open the wheel up, I'd absolutely go to the 6 piston, but an 18" front wheel, with matching floating rotors, and the 4 piston calipers, looks pretty good IMO.

[Fired00d]

Anyone have this article?

Now you have it....

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[porthole]

Now you have it....

You are the man 

[DW6019]

I have used LRB Z pads and DP 918's on My prior RK and the present SEEG. Both are light years better than stock. Dust goes away. Best thing about the LRB's is the family that sells them. I had a problem with my pads being unevenly worn. I talked to them at Daytona in March and he told me to clean my pistons and the pads would wear evenly, then he reached under the counter and gave me two sets of pads to replace the worn pads, even though it was not his fault they had worn crooked. I took calipers apart and cleaned the pistons and wear evened out. Now I have HHI 6 pistons and intend to change to LRB pads over Christmas. The color change on the rotors easily cleans up with any good brake dust remover... Mothers All Wheel, Meguairs, A-Z etc, the dark color runs right off and rotors look like new.
Good Guy.

[HWYMAN1]

use the Z pad with my brembo calipers. but have been looking at changing rotors (one possiblity is BrakeTech; http://www.braketech.com/news_article.php?id=7 ) and came up in conversion that this manufacturer recommends Ferodo FRP408ST;  SinterGrip ST (HH rated), $36.9 for this particular rotor. Anybody used this or had experience? john

[spydglide]

use the Z pad with my brembo calipers. but have been looking at changing rotors (one possiblity is BrakeTech; http://www.braketech.com/news_article.php?id=7 )

That new rotor sounds like it's the 'deal'.  Wonder what a couple of 'em cost?    spyder

[HWYMAN1]

That new rotor sounds like it's the 'deal'.  Wonder what a couple of 'em cost?    spyder

the cost for each rotor for our harleys is $289. Appearantly the front and rear are a little different but same price. john

[RobertinArgyle]

You might want to consider the Lyndall Apex composite rotor.  Weighs about 1/2 of the stock rotor and is guaranteed for life.  You can select carrier configuration and coating, button color, and rotor color.  I ordered a set and will try to post pics when I get them.

[roadrunner]

Anyone consider doing a poll on what calpiers folks have upgraded to? 

[Midnight Rider]

Anyone consider doing a poll on what calpiers folks have upgraded to? 

No poll, but I've got Performance Machine 4 piston, differential bore on front and rear.  Couldn't be happier with them.

Oh...have Lyndall Z pads on them too.

[roadrunner]

Were the PM calipers a bolt-on or do they require a bracket?

[Midnight Rider]

Were the PM calipers a bolt-on or do they require a bracket?

Direct bolt on.  Only thing necessary is to shim them to center the caliper over the rotor.  I did PM rotors/wheels/pulley as well.  Shims are included with the calipers.  My front brakes are now truly a two finger operation.  They STOP!  The rear PM will require a new rear brake line...they sell a kit...it's all braided.

[HWYMAN1]

Terry,
knowing you are a man of great research, did you find that floating rotors vs non floating, stainless vs. ceramic made any significant stopping difference with your caliper setup? john

[Midnight Rider]

Terry,
knowing you are a man of great research, did you find that floating rotors vs non floating, stainless vs. ceramic made any significant stopping difference with your caliper setup? john

John...I did do some research, but only to the extent that confirmed what I was doing was a good thing, and not necessarily the very best thing with regards to stopping efficiency.  I did find in most of the things I read that floating rotors are "the way to go".  I did not research much on ceramic or other materials for rotors, as I was looking more at complete packages where all components "matched".  I have no empirical proof, other than what I did looks good (to me), and functions a hell of a lot better than stock, measured by the seat of my pants.  I am much more confident because of the brakes having such a good "feel" to them now...better control.  I think that can all be attributed to the combination of the three new components...calipers, rotors, and Lyndall pads.  The PM calipers come with EBC pads, but I had read mixed reviews on those, so opted to just go ahead and stick the Lyndalls on.  EBC's are still sitting in the box the calipers came in.  The best pads are those from Traxxion, but there were only six pair available for testing.  At some point, it is my hope that Traxxion will become a dealer for those Japanese pads...they are amazing!!

[spydglide]

You guys just keep on and you're gonna make these ole HOGs run and handle danged good.  It's just hard for some of us to keep up with you.  But, I never tire of trying.  har!  spyder