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[MikeD]

Now that you mention that, it seems that every bike I hd that i have owned has had some brake hoise that could probably come from the calipers being clogged.  I guess I 'll shop for calipers, dammit this is going to be an expensive work order if i do everything... but it's chrome.  I guess pm or hogpro is recommended for calipers.

[Midnight Rider]

Now that you mention that, it seems that every bike I hd that i have owned has had some brake hoise that could probably come from the calipers being clogged.  I guess I 'll shop for calipers, dammit this is going to be an expensive work order if i do everything... but it's chrome.  I guess pm or hogpro is recommended for calipers.

Mike...I have the PM 4 piston, differential bore calipers all around on my SEUC and have been happy thus far with the performance.  HogPro's are excellent as well, from all reports.  And of course, Brembo's...but they require a bracket, from my understanding.

With the PM's and the Lyndal Z pads, my front brakes are literally a two finger operation now, and the rear has a better, more progressive "feel" to it as well.  I have small hands too, so the two finger deal says a lot for someone who wears a size small men's glove.

[MikeD]

thanks tc, so four in the front and whats in the rear another four or six piston?

[REGGAB]

The "gold" pads are a harder version of the (carbon/kevlar) pad compound that is more suited to racing use.  They require a break-in period to seat properly (burnish) to the rotors, and they work better when hot.  The "Z" pads are a different version of the compound that has been optimized for street use, slightly "softer", with no special break-in period.  The "Z" is easier on the rotors, stops better when cold, and is quieter.  I'm guessing that the people who are unhappy with noise, performance, and rotor wear/discoloration issues used the "gold" compound.

BTW - LRB has a good tech article on cleaning your calipers that you may want to check out.  The H-D calipers don't have a secondary piston seal to keep trash out of the caliper bores, and after relatively low miles you will find that the pistons tend to stick (thanks to tons of brake dust from the stock pads).  Their article explains and shows an excellent method for cleaning and "tuning up" your calipers.
Jerry

Yeah Jerry, saw and read that article.  I'll be performing that procedure when I replace my pads.  They referred to front calipers only.  My assumption is I'll have to remove the rear caliper to clean it out as well.  That'll be a trick.   

[porthole]

Yeah Jerry, saw and read that article. 

Anyone have this article?

[Midnight Rider]

thanks tc, so four in the front and whats in the rear another four or six piston?

Another four....that is all I felt was necessary back there, and it does very well.  I personally think the two fours are enough on the front as well.  If I were going to a single front rotor to open the wheel up, I'd absolutely go to the 6 piston, but an 18" front wheel, with matching floating rotors, and the 4 piston calipers, looks pretty good IMO.

[Fired00d]

Anyone have this article?

Now you have it....

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[porthole]

Now you have it....

You are the man 

[DW6019]

I have used LRB Z pads and DP 918's on My prior RK and the present SEEG. Both are light years better than stock. Dust goes away. Best thing about the LRB's is the family that sells them. I had a problem with my pads being unevenly worn. I talked to them at Daytona in March and he told me to clean my pistons and the pads would wear evenly, then he reached under the counter and gave me two sets of pads to replace the worn pads, even though it was not his fault they had worn crooked. I took calipers apart and cleaned the pistons and wear evened out. Now I have HHI 6 pistons and intend to change to LRB pads over Christmas. The color change on the rotors easily cleans up with any good brake dust remover... Mothers All Wheel, Meguairs, A-Z etc, the dark color runs right off and rotors look like new.
Good Guy.

[HWYMAN1]

use the Z pad with my brembo calipers. but have been looking at changing rotors (one possiblity is BrakeTech; http://www.braketech.com/news_article.php?id=7 ) and came up in conversion that this manufacturer recommends Ferodo FRP408ST;  SinterGrip ST (HH rated), $36.9 for this particular rotor. Anybody used this or had experience? john

[spydglide]

use the Z pad with my brembo calipers. but have been looking at changing rotors (one possiblity is BrakeTech; http://www.braketech.com/news_article.php?id=7 )

That new rotor sounds like it's the 'deal'.  Wonder what a couple of 'em cost?    spyder

[HWYMAN1]

That new rotor sounds like it's the 'deal'.  Wonder what a couple of 'em cost?    spyder

the cost for each rotor for our harleys is $289. Appearantly the front and rear are a little different but same price. john

[RobertinArgyle]

You might want to consider the Lyndall Apex composite rotor.  Weighs about 1/2 of the stock rotor and is guaranteed for life.  You can select carrier configuration and coating, button color, and rotor color.  I ordered a set and will try to post pics when I get them.

[roadrunner]

Anyone consider doing a poll on what calpiers folks have upgraded to? 

[Midnight Rider]

Anyone consider doing a poll on what calpiers folks have upgraded to? 

No poll, but I've got Performance Machine 4 piston, differential bore on front and rear.  Couldn't be happier with them.

Oh...have Lyndall Z pads on them too.