Topic: Pics of my new Handy lift (Read 43484 times)

rheiner · « **on:** February 14, 2009, 04:25:14 PM »

Look what showed up at my garage today. A new Handy model 20703 electric hydraulic motorcycle lift. The key features are 1500 pound load capacity, 48 inch lift rise, front drop leaf, rear drop out, 86 5/8" length, 29 1/2" width, 7 3/4" height down, slots for tie-downs, and a ramp. There are no pictures of the ramp because I'm not using it. I'm countersinking the lift in my garage floor for more parking, room to move my bikes around, and the easy, no worry drive right onto the lift.

I won't be needing that blue motorcycle lift holding up my Handy too much longer, at least not as much. Although the blue lift did come in handy (no pun intended) when I used it to hold up the lift gate on my truck when I slid the crate off. I needed a wench. This new lift weighs 650 pounds.

My lift and tools are always available to cvoharley members if you are touring through Salt Lake City, Utah, and need their use.

Randall

d o g o l s · « **Reply #1 on:** February 14, 2009, 05:12:04 PM »

concratulation

muddypaws · « **Reply #2 on:** February 14, 2009, 05:35:41 PM »

Very cool....

LarryB · « **Reply #3 on:** February 14, 2009, 05:42:41 PM »

may I ask, how much and from where

Wrongway · « **Reply #4 on:** February 14, 2009, 06:04:08 PM »

Sorry, couldn't help myself.

rheiner · « **Reply #5 on:** February 14, 2009, 06:49:44 PM »

Quote from: LarryB on February 14, 2009, 05:42:41 PM

may I ask, how much and from where

Bought it from Mile-X Equipment in Coldwater, Ohio. Jim was a pleasure to work with. This was the best price I could find after doing a fair amount of research. The price included:

Model 20703 (Orange) Handy lift $1,936.00
CV-17 cycle vise in black $135.00
Handy universal scissor jack $159.00
Handy Lo-Boy scissor jack $209.00
3% discount for paying with
cashier's check -$73.17
drop shipped directly from Handy $232.76
Total: $2,598.59

I ordered it Monday morning. Gave Jim at Mile-X authorization to charge my credit card which he did but no charges hit my account. Handy shipped the items Monday night. I sent him a cashier's check regular mail on Monday. He told me he received it Wednesday via U.S. Mail. He withdrew the authorization from my credit card. Five days after placing the order, on Saturday I received the lift and all items from Yellow Freight. I tracked the shipment with a tracking no. from Yellow Freight. All items were in perfect condition upon arrival.

Randall

Twolanerider · « **Reply #6 on:** February 14, 2009, 08:04:07 PM »

Never noticed that exposed plastic hydraulic reservoir on those before. Sure as the world I'd put something through that thing someday....

planenut · « **Reply #7 on:** February 14, 2009, 08:58:14 PM »

very very cool keep the pics comming of the progress.Diffenetly a step up from my direct lift.But you have the way to go for dropping it in the floor

serghaven · « **Reply #8 on:** February 14, 2009, 10:14:24 PM »

Very nice.

Wonder if they would give a group buy discount?

JoMo · « **Reply #9 on:** February 14, 2009, 10:38:41 PM »

That is one sweat lift congrats

Jo Mo NYC

AZSSE · « **Reply #10 on:** February 14, 2009, 10:43:38 PM »

Wow !! Great looking lift - I've still got the one like your blue one, but maybe someday .....

LRebel · « **Reply #11 on:** February 14, 2009, 10:45:11 PM »

Very Nice! Please post more pics when you countersink in your garage floor

VANAMAL · « **Reply #12 on:** February 14, 2009, 11:12:54 PM »

quality stuff. youll wonder how you lived without it!

hd-dude · « **Reply #13 on:** February 14, 2009, 11:34:50 PM »

Looks Familiar

, I got mine about a year ago:

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=20868.0

I really like mine , I have the Hydro-Pneumatic. Mine has a steel tank for the hydro fluid though. Guess they cheaped out on the newer units with the plastic tank.

rheiner · « **Reply #14 on:** February 14, 2009, 11:50:42 PM »

Quote from: hd-dude on February 14, 2009, 11:34:50 PM

Looks Familiar , I got mine about a year ago:

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=20868.0

I really like mine , I have the Hydro-Pneumatic. Mine has a steel tank for the hydro fluid though. Guess they cheaped out on the newer units with the plastic tank.

At least with the plastic tanks you can see the level of the hydraulic fluid. It gets fairly low in the container when the lift is fully extended.

Jim, that's great that you have that lift! I'll feel right at home when I come to your shop as soon as the weather clears to have you install my new Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 front end suspension. I put my Bitubos on the rear yesterday but it's been snowing so I don't know how they feel yet. Has the AK-20 kit arrived at your shop yet? I'm looking forward to the ride out and have you work on my bike.

Randall

hd-dude · « **Reply #15 on:** February 15, 2009, 12:04:25 AM »

Quote from: rheiner on February 14, 2009, 11:50:42 PM

Jim, that's great that you have that lift! At least with the plastic tanks you can see the level of the hydraulic fluid. It gets pretty low when the lift is fully extended.

I'll feel right at home when I come to your shop as soon as the weather clears to have you install my new Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 front end suspension. I put my Bitubos on the rear yesterday but it snowed today so I don't know how they feel yet. Has the AK-20 arrived at your shop yet? I'm looking forward to the ride out.

Randall

Randall;

The AK-20's did not show yet but they should be here the first of the week. Mine does not look near as good as the old pics or yours does now. It has had a year of daily use and is showing some wear on the deck but has not missed a beat. I added some of the ratcheting straps similiar to what SB posted in the other thread as well as some stainless "eye-bolts" in four locations to make it easier to tie the bike down (especially when the front end is off).

REGGAB · « **Reply #16 on:** February 15, 2009, 12:40:35 AM »

WOW! Congratulations, Randall! Very nice lift. Don't think you could have done any better. James at Mile-X is terrific to work with. Sounds pretty much like the same way my transaction went with them. You'll enjoy that thing. I couldn't be happier with mine. Matter of fact, just finished doing a bunch of work to the purple bike on it a few minutes ago. Real backache saver.

Don't worry too much about that plastic hydraulic tank and/or what some people have to say about it. It'll be fine. You're better off with what you have. Always good to have instant visibility of hydraulic fluid level, so you can prevent getting air in the lines. Remember.........some individuals LOVE to concentrate on the negative, mostly out of pure spite, trolling, jealousy, and/or just to be a prick.

You done great!

rheiner · « **Reply #17 on:** February 15, 2009, 01:06:35 AM »

Quote from: HML on February 15, 2009, 12:40:35 AM

WOW! Congratulations, Randall! Very nice lift. Don't think you could have done any better. James at Mile-X is terrific to work with. Sounds pretty much like the same way my transaction went with them. You'll enjoy that thing. I couldn't be happier with mine. Matter of fact, just finished doing a bunch of work to the purple bike on it a few minutes ago. Real backache saver.

Don't worry too much about that plastic hydraulic tank and/or what some people have to say about it. It'll be fine. You're better off with what you have. Always good to have instant visibility of hydraulic fluid level, so you can prevent getting air in the lines. Remember.........some individuals LOVE to concentrate on the negative, mostly out of pure spite, trolling, jealousy, and/or just to be a prick.

You done great!

Henry,

And thank you for recommending Mile-X Equipment to me in your private PMs when I was researching lifts. It gave me the confidence to procede with the transaction after I made my own determination that Handy makes the best lifts on the market, handy hands down. Even so, I made a lot of phone calls and no one else could beat their price, not to mention the fine service they offer to customers.

Randall

rheiner · « **Reply #18 on:** February 15, 2009, 10:45:40 AM »

Quote from: LRebel on February 14, 2009, 10:45:11 PM

Very Nice! Please post more pics when you countersink in your garage floor

I will keep this thread updated with pics as I sink my lift into the floor, but my project next week is putting in a garage heater and insulation. I'm thinking about epoxying the floor, too. I loved it in my airplane hanger but that was 18 years ago in another state. What does the epoxy cost per square foot nowdays and would you recommend it on a floor used primarily for motorcycles? If so, what's the best brand? Airplanes just have rubber on the wheels. Heavy scooters have metal kickstands. I don't want to be looking for a kick stand protector everytime I want to move a bike around.

Randall

AXIL · « **Reply #19 on:** February 15, 2009, 07:46:41 PM »

i worked with one of those for about a year. by far the best all around lift.

axil

wreckman 42 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 15, 2009, 08:48:46 PM »

I went to the web site but I don't see the 20703 (orange) model listed. Can we get some pics of the sissors jacks. I would be interested in a group buy too.

REGGAB · « **Reply #21 on:** February 15, 2009, 09:10:58 PM »

Quote from: wreckman 42 on February 15, 2009, 08:48:46 PM

I went to the web site but I don't see the 20703 (orange) model listed. Can we get some pics of the sissors jacks. I would be interested in a group buy too.

Here's a picture of the Lo-Boy........extended.

REGGAB · « **Reply #22 on:** February 15, 2009, 09:12:16 PM »

Quote from: wreckman 42 on February 15, 2009, 08:48:46 PM

I went to the web site but I don't see the 20703 (orange) model listed. Can we get some pics of the sissors jacks. I would be interested in a group buy too.

Here's a picture of the Lo-Boy.........retracted.

REGGAB · « **Reply #23 on:** February 15, 2009, 09:18:07 PM »

Quote from: wreckman 42 on February 15, 2009, 08:48:46 PM

I went to the web site but I don't see the 20703 (orange) model listed. Can we get some pics of the sissors jacks. I would be interested in a group buy too.

I'm willing to bet that if you call James at Mile-X, he'll be able to hook you up. Number is (800) 837-3818. Email: sales@mile-x.com.

P/N on the Lo-Boy is 16999. When I bought it almost a year ago, it cost me $159.00. I'm certain the price has gone up. Since I paid by cashier's check, James threw in a lift dolly at no charge. That thing is very "Handy" when I need to move the Handy Lift. Great folks to work with, so I'm certain they can get you a lift like Randall's.

mr_magoo · « **Reply #24 on:** February 15, 2009, 09:25:35 PM »

Great addition to any shop, congratulation.

rheiner · « **Reply #25 on:** February 15, 2009, 11:53:49 PM »

Quote from: wreckman 42 on February 15, 2009, 08:48:46 PM

I went to the web site but I don't see the 20703 (orange) model listed. Can we get some pics of the sissors jacks. I would be interested in a group buy too.

Ya, for some reason the orange model number isn't listed on Handy's web site anywhere under the electric hydraulic 1500 pound units. I called Handy to ask what they had in stock since they also sell retail but at full listed price. I was thinking of the red one since rumor is, they are faster up and down. lol.

Handy said they only had two available, both orange, from the latest production run and gave me the part number 20703. I asked why the orange one isn't listed on their web site and she acted surprised, and didn't know why. I figured I better grab one fast since the lead time out for this model for more production was 3-4 weeks away. I'm glad I got the "Harley orange". It's really nice.

Randall

AXIL · « **Reply #26 on:** February 16, 2009, 08:04:18 AM »

if any body is looking to buy a flat jack and you have a fatboy or Dyna you should get the 6" wide one. on the
soft tails the shocks hang just below the frame and on the Dyna's the oil pan guard hangs down for an uneven
lift. take a good look under your bike to get the right width jack. axil

Jon · « **Reply #27 on:** February 16, 2009, 02:16:23 PM »

Hi
That is a great looking lift. I am extending my garage during the summer and plan to install a lift. This is the best one I've seen, not sure if I can get one in the UK. Thanks for posting the pics it is really useful to see what others are doing.

Jon

HDBaggerDave · « **Reply #28 on:** February 18, 2009, 08:03:48 PM »

damn...way to go! Now we have another thing to buy....very cool lift

rheiner · « **Reply #29 on:** February 18, 2009, 08:16:34 PM »

I just got my first bid today from a concrete specialist to have my new Handy lift countersunk in my garage to floor level. Here I thought with the economy in the tank I'd get a pretty good deal. To cut out my current concrete in my garage (it's only 4 1/2 inches thick) and repour new walls and base for the lift to sit in at floor level when in the down position, the bid was $2,360 and it'll be done in a week. Does that sound reasonable? I was expecting maybe $1,400 tops and hoping for $900. I'll go rent a saw and mixer for that price. I'm getting another bid on Friday.

Randall

wreckman 42 · « **Reply #30 on:** February 18, 2009, 09:08:47 PM »

If ya wasn't so far away. I have a saw and a mixer.

I would like to sink one too but I think I will just let it on top. If I don't like where it is I can move it.

Screamin · « **Reply #31 on:** February 18, 2009, 09:52:02 PM »

Sounds way high to me.

TazmanTyphoon · « **Reply #32 on:** February 18, 2009, 10:22:23 PM »

Rheiner,
If you could let me know what the dimensions of the inset hole into the floor need to be for that lift would be much appreciated. I just got a bid today for a new 24x24x10 CVO Ultra Shop and Harley Bar, I can see now this machine is going to cost me some toy coin! I am patiently waiting for a ship date, today it was sunny and 54 degrees!

Thanks

rheiner · « **Reply #33 on:** February 18, 2009, 11:53:13 PM »

Quote from: TazmanTyphoon on February 18, 2009, 10:22:23 PM

Rheiner,
If you could let me know what the dimensions of the inset hole into the floor need to be for that lift would be much appreciated. I just got a bid today for a new 24x24x10 CVO Ultra Shop and Harley Bar, I can see now this machine is going to cost me some toy coin! I am patiently waiting for a ship date, today it was sunny and 54 degrees!

Thanks

Sure, once I cut it out and have the crete poured, I'll take exact measurements. I'll also post some pics of the empty hole then with the lift in it so you can see how the fit looks compared to my measurements. I'll be moving pretty fast, I hope to have it done in a week to 10 days.

Randall

REGGAB · « **Reply #34 on:** February 19, 2009, 12:07:54 AM »

Quote from: rheiner on February 18, 2009, 08:16:34 PM

I just got my first bid today from a concrete specialist to have my new Handy lift countersunk in my garage to floor level. Here I thought with the economy in the tank I'd get a pretty good deal. To cut out my current concrete in my garage (it's only 4 1/2 inches thick) and repour new walls and base for the lift to sit in at floor level when in the down position, the bid was $2,360 and it'll be done in a week. Does that sound reasonable? I was expecting maybe $1,400 tops and hoping for $900. I'll go rent a saw and mixer for that price. I'm getting another bid on Friday.

Randall

GULP! Yeah.....that's no good. You might be better off doing it yourself, Randall.

LarryB · « **Reply #35 on:** February 19, 2009, 05:57:54 AM »

Dude, are your pants down around your ankles? cuz someones trying to screw you.
let me help.

Draw you lines on the floor, make the hole 4 in larger on each side, this is so you can Turn down the slab for a finished look, remove as much gravel as needed to give you the proper drop needed plus 4+ inches of concrete. for strength, drill some hole along the side to let in some short pcs of rebar, 3/8 should work fine, have them come into the now new slab a couple in and then turn down to below the top of the new bottom slab. make sure to lay some 6mil plastic down, as a moisture barrier.
you will need to form the new edge, pour that and wreck the form and then pour the bottom.
If you send me a picture of existing conditions and size wanted for the lift, I can draw it up for you.
this whole thing should not cost more than 800 all in.

LarryB · « **Reply #36 on:** February 19, 2009, 11:41:10 AM »

we all have our gifts, thanks

MrFeexit · « **Reply #37 on:** February 20, 2009, 10:05:08 AM »

Very sweet lift! Makes me want to ride to Salt Lake just to be able to use it. Hey...I don't have a big lift just a little one but anyone needing a place to wrench when passing by central WI are more than welcome to crash here and use the hell out of what tools I have. Plus if you need to build an emergency cabinet or end table then I have all the tools you will ever need.

amigo Jorge · « **Reply #38 on:** February 21, 2009, 07:52:04 AM »

It's cool......and orange!!

rheiner · « **Reply #39 on:** February 22, 2009, 10:58:12 AM »

Update: I got a nice bid price from a contractor I've previously used, to build my countersunk hole in my garage for the lift. The hole will include three 2 1/2 inch underground high stength PVC conduit pipes from my garage wall terminating out my lift sidewalls so I can run electric and run the lift controller under the floor so I'm not tripping on them. I'm setting the lift on painted 2 1/2 inch x 1/4 inch thick tube steel to keep the lift pan off the floor. He's even putting a drain in the bottom of the slab. He's also insulating my entire garage, all for a price less than the first bid above.

And the guy who delivered my 120 gallon propane tank last week to operate my newly installed gas furnice in my garage is a Harley rider. When I explained my dilemma about getting the 650 pound Handy lift into the hole once it's all done, he told me to call him on his cell and he'll come over with his truck that has an 8 ton boom crane and set it in the hole for free. Nothing quite like the brotherhood of fellow HD riders, huh?

By next weekend I should have more pictures of the progress, including the complete installation.

Randall

LarryB · « **Reply #40 on:** February 22, 2009, 02:31:43 PM »

Cool.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #41 on:** February 22, 2009, 03:17:44 PM »

Quote from: rheiner on February 22, 2009, 10:58:12 AM

Update: I got a nice bid price from a contractor I've previously used, to build my countersunk hole in my garage for the lift. The hole will include three 2 1/2 inch underground high stength PVC conduit pipes from my garage wall terminating out my lift sidewalls so I can run electric and run the lift controller under the floor so I'm not tripping on them. I'm setting the lift on painted 2 1/2 inch x 1/4 inch thick tube steel to keep the lift pan off the floor. He's even putting a drain in the bottom of the slab. He's also insulating my entire garage, all for a price less than the first bid above.

And the guy who delivered my 120 gallon propane tank last week to operate my newly installed gas furnice in my garage is a Harley rider. When I explained my dilemma about getting the 650 pound Handy lift into the hole once it's all done, he told me to call him on his cell and he'll come over with his truck that has an 8 ton boom crane and set it in the hole for free. Nothing quite like the brotherhood of fellow HD riders, huh?

By next weekend I should have more pictures of the progress, including the complete installation.

Randall

That sounds like a great project Randall. Have watched Van's and others installations here and always loved the idea. But always still had a few worries also. Washing the floor or just spills and water in the hole, the cord or hoses in the way or getting pinched and a few others. Sounds like you are covering all the bases and getting it done at a fair price.

Congrats man. Sounds like a labor of love with an excellent outcome.

REGGAB · « **Reply #42 on:** February 22, 2009, 03:40:47 PM »

Quote from: rheiner on February 22, 2009, 10:58:12 AM

Update: I got a nice bid price from a contractor I've previously used, to build my countersunk hole in my garage for the lift. The hole will include three 2 1/2 inch underground high stength PVC conduit pipes from my garage wall terminating out my lift sidewalls so I can run electric and run the lift controller under the floor so I'm not tripping on them. I'm setting the lift on painted 2 1/2 inch x 1/4 inch thick tube steel to keep the lift pan off the floor. He's even putting a drain in the bottom of the slab. He's also insulating my entire garage, all for a price less than the first bid above.

And the guy who delivered my 120 gallon propane tank last week to operate my newly installed gas furnice in my garage is a Harley rider. When I explained my dilemma about getting the 650 pound Handy lift into the hole once it's all done, he told me to call him on his cell and he'll come over with his truck that has an 8 ton boom crane and set it in the hole for free. Nothing quite like the brotherhood of fellow HD riders, huh?

By next weekend I should have more pictures of the progress, including the complete installation.

Randall

Congratulations, Randall. You've covered every base. You are going to have one rockin' nice maintenance facility when you finish. No worries, Man. You're good to go.

sportygordy · « **Reply #43 on:** February 22, 2009, 06:47:45 PM »

Randall - sounds like your going to have a nice shop set up.. make sure to post some

when you done

porthole · « **Reply #44 on:** February 23, 2009, 09:28:01 AM »

Site requirements: you must also post pictures of the progress

miker · « **Reply #45 on:** February 23, 2009, 09:32:53 AM »

LarryB · « **Reply #46 on:** February 23, 2009, 09:47:48 AM »

something every garage should have

MrFeexit · « **Reply #47 on:** February 23, 2009, 09:58:31 AM »

A light stand?

rheiner · « **Reply #48 on:** February 23, 2009, 01:33:28 PM »

I'm gettin' er done. I'm sure glad I hired this out. A full 6 inch slab getting cut out. Getting it cut out to make room for the two 2 inch schedule 80 conduit lines is taking more work than anticipated, but it'll get done. More pics tomorrow....should have the base poured and the drain in tomorrow, then the sides and conduit runs the next day. Final step is the boom crane to set the lift in the hole on 2 1/2 inch steel tube. I'll probably wait several days to let the crete cure a bit before the lift gets put in. But I'm ready to use the lift soon. My CUSE4 has 900 miles on it and it'll be ready for initial service soon.

Randall

hogasm · « **Reply #49 on:** February 23, 2009, 01:47:39 PM »

Make sure that you post pics of the little details like the conduit pipes, air lines ad or power lines ran under slab.

Lots of people here are going to follow you here

MrFeexit · « **Reply #50 on:** February 23, 2009, 03:32:22 PM »

Fun work. Thats why I sold most of my concrete tools. I knew when you said the garage had 4 1/2" you were going to be suprised. Most poured here are in the 6" range. The original price quote....was pretty much what I would have quoted. It's lots of work and I don't want to do that unless I am getting paid. To old and crabby to do shingles or concrete anymore. Good luck with your project! Looking good so far.

rheiner · « **Reply #51 on:** February 24, 2009, 03:07:06 PM »

I'm into day two with the Handy lift install. Here's some pictures. Don't be deceived that the hole only looks like it comes up to Greg's knees (in the maroon shirt). He's 6'9" tall and his brother Redd, in the background, is 6'8". They are both master carpenters and remodeled my house from the basement up to the 2nd story and their woodwork skills are phenomenal. In their younger years they did a lot of concrete work. Redd is a dyed in the wool Harley rider, so when he's bending over moaning, it's a labor of love......ya, right. More pics tomorrow for day three.

Randall

23 inch deep hole. 6 1/2 inches of gravel base for the drain (I don't plan on washing my bike in here, just a safety drain), 6 inches of steel reinforced 6 bag concrete, 2 1/2 inches of 2/1/2 x 1/4 inch steel tube to set the lift on, and almost 8 inches for the lift. Total: 23 inches

sportygordy · « **Reply #52 on:** February 24, 2009, 03:28:26 PM »

Looken Good

Thats going to be a nice Harley stall

LarryB · « **Reply #53 on:** February 24, 2009, 03:58:43 PM »

And i don't see even one beer can. how did you post multiple pics in one post

wreckman 42 · « **Reply #54 on:** February 24, 2009, 04:32:25 PM »

Ya got me hooked. I am going to order one. I can see that I can't live without it. Not sure if I will sink it or not.

rheiner · « **Reply #55 on:** February 24, 2009, 05:31:04 PM »

If I had a lot more room in my garage I wouldn't have sunk it but my motorcycle garage isn't huge. I don't want the side extensions either and it's a lot easier and safer to ride the bike onto the lift and be able to put my feet on solid ground getting off the bike with the kick stand down (unless I drive the front wheel into the cycle vise).

Randall

rheiner · « **Reply #56 on:** February 26, 2009, 06:21:48 PM »

The install work continues. Here's days 3 and 4. The crete is 7 inches thick (needed to make up some height) and loaded with rebar. The concrete installers are taking a few days off to go to warmer weather and let the base cure for a while. They will be back in 4 days to finish their portion of the job, which are the side walls in the hole and the reinforced concrete for the conduit run. You can see the bag of portland cement on top of the Quikcrete. I bought three extra bags of that. They are throwing a big shovel full of portland in the mixer with every two bags of Quikcrete to give it 6,000 pound per square inch strength.

I decided to have a steel fabricated frame to sit the lift on, so I can level it perfectly and get the lift base pan off the concrete. That will be done tomorrow. When the steel frame is put on the concrete base and the lift is on the frame, it will be flush with the garage floor. More later.

Randall

wreckman 42 · « **Reply #57 on:** February 26, 2009, 09:33:12 PM »

Looking good. Keep em coming you got my interest. Still thinking I gota have one.

sportygordy · « **Reply #58 on:** February 26, 2009, 10:45:14 PM »

Randall,

Just curious, where did you take the drain to?

planenut · « **Reply #59 on:** February 26, 2009, 10:54:37 PM »

nice little thread running step by step of how to countersink your m/c lift

rheiner · « **Reply #60 on:** February 26, 2009, 11:55:04 PM »

Quote from: sportygordy on February 26, 2009, 10:45:14 PM

Randall,

Just curious, where did you take the drain to?

I simply have it draining into 7 inches of gravel I used as base under the concrete. The initial hole that I cut out was 104 inches by 44 inches, so that's how much of a drainfield with gravel that I have. It will drain an awful lot of water if I really needed it to. The purpose of the drain is to have a place for water to go if I spill some when cleaning my wheels or something along those lines. I have no intention of washing my bike in my garage with a full rinse. That isn't what motorcycle lifts are made for anyway. But I figured it's better to have a drain like mine than no drain and letting the lift pan or the steel support beams under the lift sit in water until it evaporates.

Randall

porthole · « **Reply #61 on:** February 27, 2009, 02:57:49 AM »

Any concerns about the amount of moisture that will leech out of the concrete while it cures?

LarryB · « **Reply #62 on:** February 27, 2009, 05:03:17 AM »

Quote from: porthole on February 27, 2009, 02:57:49 AM

Any concerns about the amount of moisture that will leech out of the concrete while it cures?

exactly, I see No vapor barrier. not only the leeching, but when a crack develops, and it will, moisture will get through it.
You could coat it after 30 days with a Soloxon type product, another one called weather tite. works well. but not as good as 4mil plastic, but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
it's easy from here

rheiner · « **Reply #63 on:** February 27, 2009, 10:14:53 AM »

Quote from: LarryB on February 27, 2009, 05:03:17 AM

exactly, I see No vapor barrier. not only the leeching, but when a crack develops, and it will, moisture will get through it.
You could coat it after 30 days with a Soloxon type product, another one called weather tite. works well. but not as good as 4mil plastic, but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
it's easy from here

I'm not worried about my base cracking. It is 6 bag concrete, 7 inches thick that was poured on compacted gravel, mixed right on the spot and immediately dumped in the hole. The slab is full of rebar and there will be even more in the side walls and all the rebar (walls and lift slab) will be tied to the existing floor (see pics of pre-drilled holes in the existing 6 inch slab).

Randall

sportygordy · « **Reply #64 on:** February 27, 2009, 10:34:18 AM »

Quote from: rheiner on February 26, 2009, 11:55:04 PM

I simply have it draining into 7 inches of gravel I used as base under the concrete. The initial hole that I cut out was 104 inches by 44 inches, so that's how much of a drainfield with gravel that I have. It will drain an awful lot of water if I really needed it to. The purpose of the drain is to have a place for water to go if I spill some when cleaning my wheels or something along those lines. I have no intention of washing my bike in my garage with a full rinse. That isn't what motorcycle lifts are made for anyway. But I figured it's better to have a drain like mine than no drain and letting the lift pan or the steel support beams under the lift sit in water until it evaporates.

Randall

Randall
I was just curious cause i didn't see a drain system installed while following your install pictures. The gravel 'capture pit' you referenced too seems like it should do the job for 'small' amounts of water to leach out. I would be carefull though, you don't want to get to much water in your leach pit at any given time. As far as other comments made regarding a vapor barrier under your lift, I certainly would not worry about it, provided you keep water drainage at a minimum. You might experience some cracking but it wont effect the overall strength and support for your lift. This is a very small area, not the whole garage - so no concern. However, If you drain a 'lot' of water in the bit then vapor could dispel throughout your total garage floor causing problems suggested by other post. I think the key is you keep water drainage at a minimum and you should have no problems and just keep don't what your doing,, It looks good and i appreciate your picture guided post.

LarryB · « **Reply #65 on:** February 27, 2009, 03:20:42 PM »

Randall,
I certainly did not intend for this to get into a discussion about the principles and characteristics of concrete, but here goes. Concrete in itself is a very stable platform for many construction projects and has been for many many years. We all assume that it is a static material and once hard, will remain so. The fact is that when concrete is poured, it can move as much as 1" in 100ft, and so on, 1/2 " 50ft. That is why we, in the business, cut relief joints in it to control this, it's what we call a Control joint. The majority of the time, when concrete cracks, it is an upward crack, not downward. When steel is introduced, this strengthens it yes, but does not stop it from cracking. This does not mean there is any structural integrity loss. We use the phrase, if you want concrete not to crack, then don't pour it. Many other factors come into play, temps, moisture, compaction of base, mix, and the time between mixing and installing, generally, 1 hour is max, after that it becomes HOT and can cause several other things.
So, in summation of this, and adding all you have done, you're good to go. High Strength mix, + re-bar and the depth you poured, you should have no issues. as far as cracking, no guaranty that it won't.
The vapor barrier thing is a separate issue. this is governed by the local building code. Some demand it , some expect it, and some give a chit. Being that this is a garage, it should not be an issue but since you dug down much further than the slab, you have created "the lowest spot" in the garage, sort of a cistern effect since you filled it with gravel. Is it going to be a problem, I highly doubt it. If you are going to drain some water into a pit of sorts, I would give it someway to ventilate so as to prohibit mold spores from forming. A simple PVC pipe open to the atmosphere is sufficient, no more than 3/4 in pipe.
I don't know your soil conditions and rainfall but you mentioned sand and rock, both of which holds moisture. I see looking at the drain setup, you have accomplished the Venting issue.

once again I did not intend on being an alarmist here, but it is my nature and what I earn my living doing.
Just want the best for my CVO bros.
And, this is not a $5mil project, but a small garage slab rework. This is going to hold your baby.

APPROVED

rheiner · « **Reply #66 on:** February 27, 2009, 09:03:59 PM »

Quote from: porthole on February 27, 2009, 02:57:49 AM

Any concerns about the amount of moisture that will leech out of the concrete while it cures?

I have no concerns. If this were your set up, would you be concerned and worried about it?

Randall

porthole · « **Reply #67 on:** February 27, 2009, 11:24:51 PM »

Quote from: rheiner on February 27, 2009, 09:03:59 PM

I have no concerns. If this were your set up, would you be concerned and worried about it?

Randall

Only during the first month as it cures.

rheiner · « **Reply #68 on:** February 28, 2009, 12:21:52 AM »

Quote from: porthole on February 27, 2009, 11:24:51 PM

Only during the first month as it cures.

So Duane, are you suggesting I not use it for a month 'til it cures or something else?

Randall

LarryB · « **Reply #69 on:** February 28, 2009, 06:11:42 AM »

Quote from: rheiner on February 28, 2009, 12:21:52 AM

So Duane, are you suggesting I not use it for a month 'till it cures or something else?

Randall

I would suggest that

MrFeexit · « **Reply #70 on:** February 28, 2009, 08:07:53 AM »

You don't need to not use it until it cures completely. But if you can keep even a small fan blowing around down low to keep the air moving that will help tremendously. The concrete will keep moving moisture for weeks...even months. when not in use leave your lift up a bit so air can move under neath. You will be fine. Trust me I'm a builder...

No, for real...I am....

LarryB · « **Reply #71 on:** February 28, 2009, 10:56:57 AM »

If you spray it down with H20 couple times a day it will cure harder.
this is a quote from the Portland Cement Association

hogasm · « **Reply #72 on:** February 28, 2009, 10:58:46 AM »

Quote from: MrFeexit on February 28, 2009, 08:07:53 AM

. Trust me I'm a builder... No, for real...I am....

If memory serves me correctly...the last words spoken by the builder of the Teton Dam right before it collapsed

just pokin fun

The concrete will continue to cure for years. Just to be on the safe side I would not use it for about a week and be careful around the edges.

hogasm · « **Reply #73 on:** February 28, 2009, 11:00:05 AM »

Quote from: LarryB on February 28, 2009, 10:56:57 AM

If you spray it down with H20 couple times a day it will cure harder.
this is a quote from the Portland Cement Association

We would completely submerge the concrete under water when we pored large floors.

sportygordy · « **Reply #74 on:** February 28, 2009, 11:03:54 AM »

Quote from: LarryB on February 28, 2009, 06:11:42 AM

I would suggest that

If it were me building this, i would be using that lift within two days after completing the pour, maybe a week at the most, but i wouldn't wait that long. Concrete sets 90% of its strength within 24 hours. It takes months for the remaining 10% to cure. Your project is very small, and the weight that you will load in this area is nothing. If you were going to place several tons over this area,, I might start getting concerned and i might wait the whole 2 weeks. You are good to go

:2vrolijk_21:Hurry up and load that bike on so we can see the final..

LarryB · « **Reply #75 on:** February 28, 2009, 11:06:58 AM »

Yep, in townhouse slabs we would tap the hydrant

rheiner · « **Reply #76 on:** February 28, 2009, 11:14:33 AM »

I've been putting water on it a few times a day as my installers told me to do. They'll be back in 3 days to finish all their work. I was going to post some pictures of my fabricated steel frame that the lift will sit on but I was on the phone too long yesterday afternoon talking to someone about HID lighting for my passing lamps (CUSE4) and by time I was done with that call the fabrication business closed for the weekend.

Randall

porthole · « **Reply #77 on:** February 28, 2009, 10:08:27 PM »

Quote from: rheiner on February 28, 2009, 12:21:52 AM

So Duane, are you suggesting I not use it for a month 'til it cures or something else?

Randall

Probably what I would do.

And I wouldn't use the fan idea, defeats the purpose of the cure time I would think.

MrFeexit · « **Reply #78 on:** March 01, 2009, 10:08:12 AM »

After the initial cure...24 to 48 hrs, you can't really affect the cure with air currents. All the fan is doing is to dissipate the moisture escaping and not allow it to settle on, or condense on any equipment stored in the vicinity it's a closed area and thats a lot of moisture your doing more for that enviroment than the concrete itself...Been doing this a long time....25 plus years in construction...Short of building a nuclear bunker the strength won't be an issue, as someone stated a bit earlier most of your cure is accomplished within 48 hrs so your strength is going to be there. If we waited the amount of time many of you are suggesting most building projects would never get completed. We pour and 48 hrs later we build. Yes it's true concrete will continue to cure for years...try breaking up 40 year old concrete...but after 48 hrs...you're good...especially with the small area under consideration here.

Here is the Architectural firm I used to work at

http://www.revarch.com/pages/Pages/pages/about%20menu.htm

And here is the web site of a guy that used to work for me and who I now sub out all my concrete work.

http://www.alchemyconcrete.com/home.nxg

rheiner · « **Reply #79 on:** March 01, 2009, 10:14:36 AM »

Quote from: MrFeexit on March 01, 2009, 10:08:12 AM

After the initial cure...24 to 48 hrs, you can't really affect the cure with air currents. All the fan is doing is to dissipate the moisture escaping and not allow it to settle on, or condense on any equipment stored in the vicinity it's a closed area and thats a lot of moisture your doing more for that enviroment than the concrete itself...Been doing this a long time....25 plus years in construction...Short of building a nuclear bunker the strength won't be an issue, as someone stated a bit earlier most of your cure is accomplished within 48 hrs so your strength is going to be there. If we waited the amount of time many of you are suggesting most building projects would never get completed. We pour and 48 hrs later we build. Yes it's true concrete will continue to cure for years...try breaking up 40 year old concrete...but after 48 hrs...you're good...especially with the small area under consideration here.

Here is the Architectural firm I used to work at

http://www.revarch.com/pages/Pages/pages/about%20menu.htm

And here is the web site of a guy that used to work for me and who I now sub out all my concrete work.

http://www.alchemyconcrete.com/home.nxg

MrFeexit, thanks for the info. Ya, it's clear to me you know what you're talking about.

Randall

wreckman 42 · « **Reply #80 on:** March 02, 2009, 08:10:03 PM »

any more Pics?

?

screem · « **Reply #81 on:** March 03, 2009, 07:26:58 AM »

here where I live, the water table is so high during the summer months, a drain like yours would back up and flood my garage...I'm sure you've taken that in to consideration

rheiner · « **Reply #82 on:** March 03, 2009, 09:53:22 AM »

Quote from: screem on March 03, 2009, 07:26:58 AM

here where I live, the water table is so high during the summer months, a drain like yours would back up and flood my garage...I'm sure you've taken that in to consideration

Ya, that's a non issue for me. I live on the "bench" over looking the Salt Lake Valley. I have a full basement, without the need for a sump pump, and the water table is not an issue.

I've got my steel fabricated frame sitting in the hole perfectly leveled, waiting for the concrete guys to show up to finish. We plan on taking measurements from the steel frame to the level of the current garage floor to see how much to float the concrete curb/sidewalls up or down all the way around the rectangle so the lift is at garage floor level when it's installed.

Randall

porthole · « **Reply #83 on:** March 03, 2009, 10:38:13 AM »

So - no pictures of the frame in and out of the hole

porthole · « **Reply #84 on:** March 03, 2009, 10:39:43 AM »

Quote from: rheiner on March 03, 2009, 09:53:22 AM

We plan on taking measurements from the steel frame to the level of the current garage floor to see how much to float the concrete curb/sidewalls up or down all the way around the rectangle so the lift is at garage floor level when it's installed.

Is the frame going to sit on the floor you already have poured or are the sides going to be the "resting" location, with the center open?

rheiner · « **Reply #85 on:** March 03, 2009, 11:49:23 AM »

I was going to wait for more pictures until the steel frame is in final form but I will post some more pics here so you can see the plan going forward. Right below here the frame is sitting on the floor, completely level with steel shims. That is how it will rest once the curb/walls are poured. It is unpainted and I am adding three more support 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch tube steel in the frame to further support the weight at strategic points on the Handy lift. I am also having end caps welded on the 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch rails to keep moisture out. The temporary steel shims I have on now are only used to get the height measurement I need to have it level. I will have permanent shims welded on all points of the frame at the predetermined height, then the frame will be primed and painted.

The height of the Handy lift when all the way down is 7 3/4 inches. You can see from one of the pictures it's spot on with the existing floor at that location so the curb/sidewall won't need any slope. However, on the front left corner, the height from the frame to existing concrete is 8 inches, which means I'll be floating the 6 inch curb/sidewall down 1 /4 inch so the concrete floor next to the installed lift is flush with the lift.

Now if the concrete guys would show up I can explain what we need to do, take the measurements, pull the frame out of the hole, and built the support walls to make the final concrete pour. While the walls are curing I'll take the frame to the fabricator for finishing work.

Randall

porthole · « **Reply #86 on:** March 03, 2009, 12:10:07 PM »

What is the reason the sides and based were not poured at the same time?

The holes in the garage floor slab are for additional re-bar, correct?

rheiner · « **Reply #87 on:** March 03, 2009, 12:33:42 PM »

Quote from: porthole on March 03, 2009, 12:10:07 PM

What is the reason the sides and based were not poured at the same time?

The holes in the garage floor slab are for additional re-bar, correct?

The reason the sides and base were not poured at the same time is because it would have been an engineering nightmare to expect all the measurements for lift base height, curb level, etc. to be perfect. Maybe it's possible that there are experts that could have done a mono pour and have it be 100% perfect but I'd suspect they would have charged me a fortune, because there is no room for error if I want the existing floor (which is not perfectly level) to be flush with the lift all the way around when it's installed.

The way I've done it in two concrete pour steps will give me perfect results. The motorcycle lift will be level and the curb will be flush with the lift at all points in the down position.

The existing holes you see in the garage floor slab (in other pictures in earlier posts) are for rebar to be epoxied in and bent 90 degrees and tied to the vertical rebar sticking out of the lift slab that will be in the sidewalls. Additionally, there will be horizontal rebar in the sidewalls all the way around. If you look in one of the above pictures (a few posts up from this one), in the conduit run you can see the numerous 90 degree bent rebar pieces laying in there ready to be inserted and epoxied into the pre-drilled holes at garage floor level.

Randall

rheiner · « **Reply #88 on:** March 03, 2009, 01:29:51 PM »

I just got a call from my concrete installers. They are still in still Arizona today, traveling back home tomorrow, and will be here in 2 days from today, first thing in the morning. They said they plan on completing the concrete walls and conduit run that day. So I'll have more pictures in two days, then I'll take some pictures of my completed steel frame both in and out of the hole, topside and bottom, and within a week I should have the lift in the hole, provided my new buddy with the crane can stop by.

Randall

porthole · « **Reply #89 on:** March 03, 2009, 01:34:19 PM »

Looking good and saving the notes for when I do my garage addition.

rheiner · « **Reply #90 on:** March 07, 2009, 08:26:05 PM »

Here are days 5 and 6 on the lift install. I will explain the noteworthy points in between each picture.

This first picture shows one of the the rebars that has been bent 90 degrees, epoxied into the existing garage floor, and tied into the lift slab.

This picture shows the epoxied rebar from the existing floor being tied into the rebar from the recently poured lift slab, together with two complete encircled rebars that will all be inside the sidewall.

This picture shows the two, 2 inch schedule 80 conduit tubes coming out of the 2 x 12 inch concrete form.

Here is the entire frame built to hold the concrete for the walls and conduit run. Note the protruding piece of wood into the concrete sidewall to make room for the lift front drop support and hinges. The height of the concrete walls are approximately 10 7/16 inch. The 2 x 12s were ripped to accomodate the slightly uneven garage floor so when the concrete is poured to the top of the 2 x 12s, the walls will be level with the perfectly level lift once it is installed.

Here is the back of the 2 x 12 inch form. Note the 1 1/2 x 1 inch piece of wood attached to the rear 2 x 12 form to allow the protruding lift ramp to fit into the space being created so the rear lift top can (and will) be snug to the back wall.

Here the installers are mixing and pouring 6 bag concrete into the frame.

The concrete is all poured and wet.

Here is a picture of the distance from the steel fabricated frame to the top of the new sidewall. Note it is 7 3/4 inches, which is the height of the 1500 pound Handy electric hydraulic lift in the down position. Also note the cavity in the back wall for the protruding ramp support on the lift.

Here is a picture of the lift ramp that protrudes back 1 inch from the lift that the cavity in the concrete was built to house so the top of the lift in the rear can be flush with the rear sidewall.

This is how the steel frame that will hold the lift looks in the completed concrete hole. You can see the indent in the concrete walls to accommodate the front lift dropdown hinge support. In addition to the extra room the top hinge needs in the sidewall, at the base of the lift on the pan directly under the hinge, there is a pivot shaft that protrudes 1 inch from the pan, whcih is the location of the "front scissor" support point that raises and lowers the lift.

Here is a close up of the hinge support that protrudes out from the lift.

This is a close up of the front lift hinge cut out in the concrete. You can see I also put a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch steel tube cross support piece on the fabricated frame directly under the pivot shaft that protrudes from the pan of the lift. This steel cross piece is also the location, in the center of the lift pan, that the hydraulic cylinder unit is mounted onto the lift pan, which is directly on top if this steel tube cross support.

You can see from the steel frame support that the conduit lines come out in front of the fabricated steel frame support. The conduit lines were designed to come out between the base of the lift that houses the electric motor and hydraulic fluid reservoir and the top platform of the lift.

Close up of the two 2 inch conduit lines.

When the lift is installed, I made the countersunk hole five additional inches longer at the front. I intend to put a steel plate, 1/4 inch thick supported by two or three solid blocks of wood (5 x 5 x 10 3/8 inches) or I might use several 4 inch square steel tubes to support the steel plate so it is flush with the garage floor when the lift is in the down position.

I wanted some extra room in front so I could service the lift motor and hydraulic fluid in the event one day I pushed the lift controller button to raise the lift and it does not move. Moreover, I want room to put my lift controller under the steel plate because the cable line that operates it needs to be extended by about 40 inches if it is to be put in the conduit run and hung on the garage wall. If I choose not to extend the lift controller cable, I can put the lift controller in a watertight bag or container under the steel plate in front of the lift, and everything will be at or below garage floor level.

The final step is to let the concrete walls cure a few days then call my friend with his crane and set the lift in the countersunk hole at which time this project will be done.

Randall

hd-dude · « **Reply #91 on:** March 07, 2009, 08:53:12 PM »

Looks good, I guess you're not going to use the tool trays on the sides of the lift?

rheiner · « **Reply #92 on:** March 07, 2009, 11:35:25 PM »

Quote from: hd-dude on March 07, 2009, 08:53:12 PM

Looks good, I guess you're not going to use the tool trays on the sides of the lift?

Jim,

I decided early on not to make room for them in the down position. I don't think they'd hold up and be durable if the full weight of a bike or car tire ran over them. If I'm going to be working on a project for more than just fluid changes, once I raise the lift, it would take only a minute or two to bolt the tool trays on each side, then take them off when I'm done.

Randall

REGGAB · « **Reply #93 on:** March 08, 2009, 01:12:06 AM »

Looks really great, Randall. You're gonna have a really nice rig when this project is complete.

hogasm · « **Reply #94 on:** March 11, 2009, 09:35:10 PM »

How are things going reiner

Your pictorial has been one of the best and most informative on this site in a while

thanks

rheiner · « **Reply #95 on:** March 12, 2009, 10:59:22 PM »

I'm good to go. So screw it....let's ~~ride~~ work.

I can take it up two more inches for a total of 40.25 inches from the garage floor.

HID lighting in the buckets, but that's for another thread.

It's been a fun project but I'm ready to ride. It's spring time.

Randall

porthole · « **Reply #96 on:** March 12, 2009, 11:11:01 PM »

To cool

Very nice

Buy early · « **Reply #97 on:** March 12, 2009, 11:23:01 PM »

Rheiner - that's about a slick a deal as I've ever seen. You should rent the place out!

hd-dude · « **Reply #98 on:** March 12, 2009, 11:28:14 PM »

Looks GREAT Randall

I bet it feels good to have it all finished.

REGGAB · « **Reply #99 on:** March 12, 2009, 11:49:49 PM »

VERY NICE, Randall! Congratulations on a job very well done. That looks great, and it is at the perfect height. I know you must be thrilled to have this project completed.

sportygordy · « **Reply #100 on:** March 13, 2009, 12:28:10 AM »

Randall,

I followed every inch of your install and picked up a few ideas along the way. Thanks for taking the time and putting together a well documented tutorial of your lift install. And oh yea, great pictures too

Fired00d · « **Reply #101 on:** March 13, 2009, 06:42:14 AM »

That is totally awesome, job well done!!!!

Top that off I really like the color combo of the lift.

Ride Safe,
Fired00d

rheiner · « **Reply #102 on:** March 13, 2009, 09:15:53 AM »

Thanks for the kind comments, everyone. I'm happy to give anyone my thoughts and suggestions about what I learned with this project, but all my pictures tell most of the story. Just shoot me a PM. I'm looking forward to a lifetime of enjoyment in my garage. Bikes will come and go but this baby is likely here to stay, unless something better comes along that I can't live without.

I'm leaving shortly for a 3 day ride to warmer weather in the south--Arizona and Nevada. I hope everyone finds time to have a safe ride this weekend.

Randall

bknerr · « **Reply #103 on:** March 13, 2009, 10:46:40 AM »

incredibly well thought out project. great idea, wouldn`t have thought of it myself.

1711tab · « **Reply #104 on:** March 13, 2009, 11:01:53 AM »

Quote from: rheiner on March 12, 2009, 10:59:22 PM

I'm good to go. So screw it....let's ~~ride~~ work.

It's been a fun project but I'm ready to ride. It's spring time.

Randall

Looking GOOD very NICE... Enjoy...

I bought my Handy Lift in 1998 and it's never given me a ounce of trouble... There the BEST in my opinion...

porthole · « **Reply #105 on:** March 14, 2009, 09:30:09 AM »

Quote from: rheiner on March 13, 2009, 09:15:53 AM

I'm leaving shortly for a 3 day ride to warmer weather

Whoo Hoo new lift party

at Randall's this weekend

MrFeexit · « **Reply #106 on:** March 14, 2009, 12:35:19 PM »

LOOOONG DRIVE.....Oh and my bike doesnt have wheels yet...still waiting

planenut · « **Reply #107 on:** March 14, 2009, 01:17:39 PM »

great job and great thread,thanks

serghaven · « **Reply #108 on:** March 14, 2009, 06:43:37 PM »

The only way that would look better is if it was in MY garage... Great job

Author Topic: Pics of my new Handy lift (Read 43484 times)

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