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[gaspar17]

I have a 2011 ST Convertible. I live on the gulf coast of Florida, and the engine casing is starting to show some salt air corrosion. These white spots are resistant to coming off with the regular wash and nylon brush scrubbing. Does anyone have a good way to remove this? And any advice on treatment to avoid it coming back? Thanks

[Midnight Rider]

I don't know what would be a better way to get it off, but the S100 Engine Brightner might help keep it from doing it in the first place.     It does make the cases look like new again.

[gaspar17]

I don't know what would be a better way to get it off, but the S100 Engine Brightner might help keep it from doing it in the first place.     It does make the cases look like new again.

I have looked at that, but the description of the product emphasizes it making a black engine look like new.  The painted metal case covers around the engine on the convertible are a kind of gunmetal gray.  I'm not sure how it would react to something designed for black covers.

[dlaws01]

Wet bike, lather, rinse, repeat often.  Apply wax or other protective product. 

[Midnight Rider]

I have looked at that, but the description of the product emphasizes it making a black engine look like new.  The painted metal case covers around the engine on the convertible are a kind of gunmetal gray.  I'm not sure how it would react to something designed for black covers.

I used it on my Silver (powdercoated) engine ('06 SEUC) and it worked great.  I haven't needed to use it on the '11 yet, but wouldn't hesitate to do so.  It's colorless.  Kinda makes the powercoat look like you've put Amourall on it or something similar.  Sort of a semi-shine.

On the black engine, it would just be more noticeable when you got done 'cause the black cases can get really dull looking.  It has a little pipe nozzle on it so you can better control where it gets.  It's not intended for any painted or rubber surfaces.

That salt air down there is brutal on parts, so I can see what kind of issue you are having.  Hot+Muggy+Salt Air=bad for some parts.

I can tell you what NOT to use to clean the cases...EasyOff Oven Cleaner.  Just ask Hogasm...

[Midnight Rider]

This may work well too:  http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/engine+detailing+kit.do?sortby=ourPicks

I use a lot of Griot's products for cleaning wheels, tires, leather, platic, windows, etc and have been VERY happy with the results.  I have not tried this product, but it does not sound like it's harsh chemically...it's biodegradeable.

[gaspar17]

Thanks for all the input.  I will give some of these a try .

[GregKhougaz]

When you take the bike out, do you wipe it down first, or after you ride?  Living near the beach especially, you should wipe it down AFTER you ride to get off the salt.  That will go a long way toward avoiding your issue.  Also, Simple Green works as well as S100, is far less harsh and a fraction of the cost.  Just my $.02.   

[gaspar17]

i appreciate the thoughts Greg.  This became an issue because of an extended period over the winter when I couldn't ride and couldn't make the time to pull it out.  My bike is kept under cover and in a bike bag, but its the salt air that gets into it.

[hogasm]

I used it on my Silver (powdercoated) engine ('06 SEUC) and it worked great.  I haven't needed to use it on the '11 yet, but wouldn't hesitate to do so.  It's colorless.  Kinda makes the powercoat look like you've put Amourall on it or something similar.  Sort of a semi-shine.

On the black engine, it would just be more noticeable when you got done 'cause the black cases can get really dull looking.  It has a little pipe nozzle on it so you can better control where it gets.  It's not intended for any painted or rubber surfaces.

That salt air down there is brutal on parts, so I can see what kind of issue you are having.  Hot+Muggy+Salt Air=bad for some parts.

I can tell you what NOT to use to clean the cases...EasyOff Oven Cleaner.  Just ask Hogasm...

Go ahead....I am a big boy....I can take it....

But if you do decide to use Easy Off Oven Cleaner.....you can make it any color you want then

[hogasm]

i appreciate the thoughts Greg.  This became an issue because of an extended period over the winter when I couldn't ride and couldn't make the time to pull it out.  My bike is kept under cover and in a bike bag, but its the salt air that gets into it.

Spray down the motor with CRC before you put it up. when you take it out to ride just do a quick wash to get it off.......I use it on my 300 Mercury Verados and they look like brand new under the cowlings

[spydglide]

I have a 2011 ST Convertible. I live on the gulf coast of Florida, and the engine casing is starting to show some salt air corrosion. These white spots are resistant to coming off with the regular wash and nylon brush scrubbing. Does anyone have a good way to remove this? And any advice on treatment to avoid it coming back? Thanks

My best guess is that if it's resistant to scrubbing off the coating has already been penetrated and there will be no easy way to bring it back as new, but CRC or WD-40 will help retard further corrosion.  The best prevention, in my opinion, is fresh water and soap after being directly exposed to salt air mist close to the ocean.  It only takes one day for parts of my scooter to begin to show rust/corrosion after riding down A1A for a few miles and putting the scooter in a garage overnight w/o a freshwater rinsedown.  Surely the guys that live on the Coast have figured a way to store a bike w/o corrosion damage.  spyder

[Screamin Eagle Carl]

I store mine inland at my office. I live on the beach (A1A) but don't store it there. The salt shows on my car windows after one night parked out. I agree, use a protective coating. Minimize the corrosion and wash after every ride. A1A is a salt zone when it is breezy which is most of the time.

After a ride, and with the coating already applied and that includes wax on the paint and chrome polish. I never use soap, just water and a nylon brush. I then dry off the parts with an oversized terry cloth. takes about 20 minutes but I usually get into it and really hit all the parts I can. Consistency is the key to any solution.