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CVO Technical => Electronic Toys and Gadgets => Topic started by: Heatwave on October 12, 2009, 11:03:03 PM
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I thought others my find my GPS mount of interest. I had several objectives in the way I mounted my Zumo 550.
- I wanted the entire mount to be removeable so I could transfer my Zumo to my other bike. This required making a new power connection since the Garmin design does not enable the mount to be easily removed since there are 2 screws that attach the power connection to the mount.
- I wanted it to be reasonable clean looking.
- I wanted the directions and the music on my 4gb card (1000 songs) to be played through my sound system.
- I wanted the Zumo to power up and charge whenever I turned on the bike.
- A little additional chrome would be nice.
The outcome was that I used a 1" Kuryakyn universal handlebar clamp http://www.kuryakyn.com/index.cfm/go/Home.ProductDetail/catID/9/scID/13/IMID/375 to mount a 1" ram-mount ball http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045066045051051055085/Default.aspx using a stainless steel screw. I then used a chrome short Ram clamp http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045066045050048049045065067072085/Default.aspx to attach the Zumo mount to the handlebar.
I ran the audio out from the Zumo under the handlebar, through the left fairing open and out through the right handlebar opening. I then plugged the Zumo output jack into the radio's aux input.
To power the Zumo, I ran the power line from the Garmin mount, under the handlebar, through the left handlebar fairing opening and then used the auxillary power plugs attached to the factory harness near the headlights to power the Zumo. About 6 inches from the Zumo mount I spliced in a 2 pole flat trailer connector and heat shrink wrap. (Make sure the exposed metal side of the plug coming from the headlight is the ground and not the hot lead, to ensure you don't get a short when the Zumo mount is detached from the bike.) By having this flat connector, I can now unplug the power at this connector, unplug the audio output from the mount, loosen the clamp connector and remove the entire zumo/mount to transfer to my other bike. I can also now very easily remove the entire mount when security might be a concern.
I then attached the power and audio wires beneath the handlebar with 2 chrome zips ties.
Here's a few pics of the setup: (you can see the audio out from the Zumo plugged into the radio)
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Pics # 2 from the left side showing the chrome ram mount clamp, the Kuryakyn handlebar clamp and the audio output from the Zumo
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Pic # 3 showing the right side showing the flat 2 pole power connector with heat shrink wrap
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Final pic #4 showing the wiring from beneath the handlebar. You can see the flat pole connector again, chrome zip ties and where I enter the fairing.
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This looks great, a picture is worth a 1000 words. Great Job. Thanks again for sharing. :pepper: :pepper: :pepper:
Chris :2vrolijk_21:
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very nice and very helpful. I was looking for similar parts and now I have them thanks to you. Ride safe
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:2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21:
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Heatwave I have been looking for a set up like yours; looks good :bananarock: This is going to be one of my winter projects also, I just ordered parts from RAM like yours.
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Thanks Heat, I order everything last night that you listed. Now all I need is the bike :nixweiss: so until then I will just sit back and :drink:
Chris ;D
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Thanks Heat, I order everything last night that you listed. Now all I need is the bike :nixweiss: so until then I will just sit back and :drink:
Chris ;D
love the beer drinking smiley face, didn't even notice it up there until I saw it on your post! That could be me!!
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Hey Heat please take a look at the pics. I'm missing one piece here. I'm guessing a rode type to connect the round bar mount to the ball????????? HELP PLEASE.
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1 more
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Hey Heat please take a look at the pics. I'm missing one piece here. I'm guessing a rode type to connect the round bar mount to the ball????????? HELP PLEASE.
OH NO :'( looks like I may have the same problem :oops: I ordered the same items just waiting on delivery. It looks like it needs a bolt or same thing to attach the ball to the Kuryakyn universal handlebar clamp. :nixweiss: Heat help where are you?
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OH NO :'( looks like I may have the same problem :oops: I ordered the same items just waiting on delivery. It looks like it needs a bolt or same thing to attach the ball to the Kuryakyn universal handlebar clamp. :nixweiss: Heat help where are you?
It's OK. You just need a SS screw and small washer to go through the Kuryakyn clamp and into the mounting ball. I referenced this in the original post but forgot to mention that I just picked it up at my local hardware store. Just take the clamp and ball into the hardware store and pick up a nice SS (or chrome if they have it) phillips head screw with the correct threads and length (that's why you'll need the clamp and ball with you). Or if security is a concern, get an SS soc head screw.
Shouldn't cost more than $.25.
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Okay kool :2vrolijk_21: thanks
Trey
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Thanks Heat, I will go today and get the SS. I'm also ready to start talking about the next Mod. Dame, you guys may think I'm nuts but I just wish I had a bike to Mod, should be here next week. Heat what am I going to do about the sound, I like it loud. What do you know about the V&H headers coming out.
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Thanks Heat, I will go today and get the SS. I'm also ready to start talking about the next Mod. Dame, you guys may think I'm nuts but I just wish I had a bike to Mod, should be here next week. Heat what am I going to do about the sound, I like it loud. What do you know about the V&H headers coming out.
NVTHIS, started and no bike :huepfenjump3: way to go :2vrolijk_21:
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Thanks Heat, I will go today and get the SS. I'm also ready to start talking about the next Mod. Dame, you guys may think I'm nuts but I just wish I had a bike to Mod, should be here next week. Heat what am I going to do about the sound, I like it loud. What do you know about the V&H headers coming out.
I really don't no anything about the V&H headers. I'm waiting to see more dyno info on Jackpot slip-ons and the yet-to-be-released new Rhineharts. For now I'm very pleased with my stock header with the Cat removed (by Fullsac) and the stock baffles which I made removeable and replaced with Fullsac's 2.25" Performance baffles.
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I did the same with fullsac, I love it. I don't think I'm going with aftermarket exhust. I like the sound I get with just the baffle change
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I did the same with fullsac, I love it. I don't think I'm going with aftermarket exhust. I like the sound I get with just the baffle change
Did you leave the muffler packing material in or removed? I left it in for a while but felt the sound was too "muffled" (no big surprise there). I've since removed the packing material and like the sound much more with it removed.
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I left it in
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OK heat I've got everything I need and feel like a dumb chit for not putting 2 and 2 together myself. The GPS is ready to go. Thanks Again.
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OK heat I've got everything I need and feel like a dumb chit for not putting 2 and 2 together myself. The GPS is ready to go. Thanks Again.
No problem. Post a pic when you get it together. I'm also considering the Screamin Eagle shift linkage http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=22634.0. Once you get it installed send a pic. Good luck.
On a separate note, once you start considering engine mods, we need to talk. I am more excited with the performance of my 2010 SE Ultra after the engine work and tuning than with any other bike I've ridden. Its a complete rocket ship with excellent low end performance and an outstanding high end (the dealer's dyno tune, 108/109, was OK but it is now sooooo much better). I don't have a dyno yet on my new map however the performance is simply so much better, stronger and smoother than the original dyno. It took alot of runs around some backroads to capture enough data with the SuperTuner, however using SmartTune is was definitely worth it.
Once you're ready to focus on performance, drop me a line.
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:jack: sorry is that the work you did with steve from fullsac?ß
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:jack: sorry is that the work you did with steve from fullsac?ß
Yes and no. I used Fullsacs baffles and had Steve remove the cat from my head pipe but that was the limit of their involvement in the engine build, so far.
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Here is the bolts I got in chrome, great match and fit. Thanks Heat. :2vrolijk_21:
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Second one
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Just before someone ask, no the mug does not come with the bolt. LOL
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Here is the bolts I got in chrome, great match and fit. Thanks Heat. :2vrolijk_21:
Very nice touch. Even better than the SS phillips screw I used and more secure.
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What is a SS soc ?
It's OK. You just need a SS screw and small washer to go through the Kuryakyn clamp and into the mounting ball. I referenced this in the original post but forgot to mention that I just picked it up at my local hardware store. Just take the clamp and ball into the hardware store and pick up a nice SS (or chrome if they have it) phillips head screw with the correct threads and length (that's why you'll need the clamp and ball with you). Or if security is a concern, get an SS soc head screw.
Shouldn't cost more than $.25.
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What is a SS soc ?
My guess would be SS = Stainless Steel, and soc = socket. :nixweiss:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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Aaaaaaah thxs
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I think SS is for stainless steel
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What is a SS soc ?
Stainless Steel socket head bolt (ie. stainless steel allen head bolt)