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[1abastarsmda]

I have seen a lot of posts on HID headlamps, but I'm not getting what seem to be the straightforward answers that I was hoping to find.  The issues seem to be who to buy what product from, will the lamps cause interference with other electronics on the bike and how can that be avoided, should both high and low come on together when on high beams and how do you make this happen, what brightness level should be purchased for the brightest white light, and what is the solution to get the passing lamps to closely match up in light color.  So the questions are:

     1.  Where should I buy my HID headlamp from?
     2.  What exact part # should I purchase?
     3.  What brightness level should I buy to produce the brightest white light?
     4.  Does the HID lamp cause interference with other electronics such as the radio?
     5.  If yes to #4, how can the interference be avoided?
     6.  Should the high and low beams come on together when the high beams are activated?
     7.  If yes to #6, is there a special way to wire them?  Please explain.
     8.  What part(s) are needed to closely match the lighting color of the HID with the passing lamps?

I'm trying to find a solution that works so I don't have to go through the trial and error method that it appears many have gone through.  My time is very limited these days, and I'm not going to start this project until I'm confident that this is going to work correctly the first time.  I realize that without headlamps, I'm also without a bike, so I hope someone will share the information to a seamless installation.  Thanks!

[49445CVO]

Thank You 1abastarsmda,

  I too have been watching and asking about the same issues for awhile now and I am stuck on what to do. I want the HID but the expence was keeping me from doing it as an experiment (Lack of info). Then I started to look into better bulbs and found that the Silver Stars are not working out and kinda expensive to keep blowing. Then I started to look into the PIAA's and wow they are not cheap. So I am at a stand still.

Do I do the HID's and figure out what #color I need and hope not to get any interference. Also hope that I like the HID's, cause remember that our light housings are not designed for the HID lighting and the way it cast the light is not as good as if it were designed for it.

Too bad that there is not a smaller ballast and bulb set up for the passing lamps. What I have been told is that some have bought the PIAA 880 and have been happy.

Topper

[naitram]

when i did mine i chose to upgrade to the dual halogen bucket (most of you guys already have this) first.

i used kits from http://www.xtralights.com they have upgraded their technology since i bought them. i think hd-dude is a dealer for these now

from their site re: "colors"



high and low should both be on when high is on, this should already happen no change in wiring is needed

you will have a hard time matching HID with non HID passing lamps

[1abastarsmda]

when i did mine i chose to upgrade to the dual halogen bucket (most of you guys already have this) first.

i used kits from http://www.xtralights.com they have upgraded their technology since i bought them. i think hd-dude is a dealer for these now

from their site re: "colors"



high and low should both be on when high is on, this should already happen no change in wiring is needed

you will have a hard time matching HID with non HID passing lamps

Any interference with the other electronics or radio?

[naitram]

i have no interference with my sony head unit. cant speak for the HD unit

[Twolanerider]

Any interference with the other electronics or radio?

A few guys have reported electrical interference.  I haven't put in a ton of the HID kits but have done a half dozen.  Most of those I remember reporting interference had the module close to or on top of the radio.  Moving them further outboard seemed to solve it. 

One of the bikes I put HID lights had some interference.  He had a ton of stuff pre-existing in the fairing (even worse than my bike used to be).  Ended up having to rejig some of his other accessory mounts/installs to make room to hang the ballast out off the speaker support brackets.  Once that was done his interference went away also.

As to color temp; I've not yet seen any halogen bulb that ended up being a good color temp match to any HID.  If you find something be sure and share.  There'll be a run on bulbs somewhere when it happens.

[ultrafxr]

Got my xtralites from Jim (hd-dude) a couple years ago.  Very pleased with them and he told me where to position the ballasts (not on top of the radio - he can direct you to the proper support bracket to mount them to).  No interference with my stock HK radio, intercom, cb.  But like Don said, I have not found passing lamps that will match the hid  color.  But what the heck, I'm more concerned about seeing and being seen than looking 'perfect.'

[Twolanerider]

And to circle the proverbial wagons on the spotlights here it should also be mentioned that trying HIDs in the spots has been done.  Using the SEEG/SEUC type spotlights the mounting brackets can have their hollow centers opened up a bit for the extra wiring.  It can be fed through and the connections repaired to tie it all together.  The bulbs will light up on a pre-final-assembly test after this is all done and the extra pair of ballasts are shoehorned inside the fairing.

All this will work; right up until it is discovered the damned HID bulbs are too long physically fit inside the lamp housing.  The only good thing to be said about this is that it wasn't discovered while working on my own bike .

[ultrafxr]

And to circle the proverbial wagons on the spotlights here it should also be mentioned that trying HIDs in the spots has been done.  Using the SEEG/SEUC type spotlights the mounting brackets can have their hollow centers opened up a bit for the extra wiring.  It can be fed through and the connections repaired to tie it all together.  The bulbs will light up on a pre-final-assembly test after this is all done and the extra pair of ballasts are shoehorned inside the fairing.

All this will work; right up until it is discovered the damned HID bulbs are too long physically fit inside the lamp housing.  The only good thing to be said about this is that it wasn't discovered while working on my own bike .

I hate it when that happens.   

[1abastarsmda]

And to circle the proverbial wagons on the spotlights here it should also be mentioned that trying HIDs in the spots has been done.  Using the SEEG/SEUC type spotlights the mounting brackets can have their hollow centers opened up a bit for the extra wiring.  It can be fed through and the connections repaired to tie it all together.  The bulbs will light up on a pre-final-assembly test after this is all done and the extra pair of ballasts are shoehorned inside the fairing.

All this will work; right up until it is discovered the damned HID bulbs are too long physically fit inside the lamp housing.  The only good thing to be said about this is that it wasn't discovered while working on my own bike .

I'm glad you brought that up, since you know the thought was lurking in the back of my head....along with several other thoughts that are probably illegal in most cultures.

[Twolanerider]

I'm glad you brought that up, since you know the thought was lurking in the back of my head....along with several other thoughts that are probably illegal in most cultures.

Jeff, if it wasn't you it would've been somebody else buddy.  We're sick bastards that way (not that this is a bad thing....).

[1abastarsmda]

Jeff, if it wasn't you it would've been somebody else buddy.  We're sick bastards that way (not that this is a bad thing....).

Yeah, but...2lane...this is Dave 

[Twolanerider]

Yeah, but...2lane...this is Dave 

Crap, I got my threads mixed up !

[49445CVO]

And to circle the proverbial wagons on the spotlights here it should also be mentioned that trying HIDs in the spots has been done.  Using the SEEG/SEUC type spotlights the mounting brackets can have their hollow centers opened up a bit for the extra wiring.  It can be fed through and the connections repaired to tie it all together.  The bulbs will light up on a pre-final-assembly test after this is all done and the extra pair of ballasts are shoehorned inside the fairing.

All this will work; right up until it is discovered the damned HID bulbs are too long physically fit inside the lamp housing.  The only good thing to be said about this is that it wasn't discovered while working on my own bike .

oh.....oh......oh.....darn! Yeah I'd be happy it was not mine too after all that work... What about the PIAA'S 880's?

[Twolanerider]

oh.....oh......oh.....darn! Yeah I'd be happy it was not mine too after all that work... What about the PIAA'S 880's?

Still not a visual match.

[49445CVO]

Still not a visual match.

But better than stock?

[Twolanerider]

But better than stock?

Not matching is not matching.  You can get closer.  I've yet to see anything that was really "close enough" to be qualified as a good visual match.  But opinions may vary....

[49445CVO]

Not matching is not matching.  You can get closer.  I've yet to see anything that was really "close enough" to be qualified as a good visual match.  But opinions may vary....

I hear ya thanks though.  Do ya know id anyone is working on a shorter more compact bulb for this?

[Twolanerider]

I hear ya thanks though.  Do ya know id anyone is working on a shorter more compact bulb for this?

Haven't seen one.  Mostly stopped paying close attention a year or so ago.  But haven't heard of anyone else stumbling in to one either.

[49445CVO]

Haven't seen one.  Mostly stopped paying close attention a year or so ago.  But haven't heard of anyone else stumbling in to one either.

Thanks for the info

But you are running the HID's in the head lamp? Hi & Low?

[Twolanerider]

Thanks for the info

But you are running the HID's in the head lamp? Hi & Low?

Yes, high and low.  They've been in there a long time now too.  That dual bulb reflector was so poor with even good halogen bulbs that I outran headlight effectiveness at night and was always using the lights of traffic in front of me for visual assist.  HIDs made the bike safe at night.

[49445CVO]

Yes, high and low.  They've been in there a long time now too.  That dual bulb reflector was so poor with even good halogen bulbs that I outran headlight effectiveness at night and was always using the lights of traffic in front of me for visual assist.  HIDs made the bike safe at night.

Do you remember what color # they are and did you get them from HD DUDE?

[Twolanerider]

Do you remember what color # they are and did you get them from HD DUDE?

Actually I guinea pigged the HID kits before anyone else had.  Right after I did HD Dude picked up his dealer status with the company whose parts I used.

Since no one had done it yet no one was thinking about the "other" lights.  Ancillary color matching hadn't been thought of yet.  So I looked at all the pretty pictures and thought "oh, I like the look of the 8k best."  They work great.  The digital igniters that were part of those original kits are small and continue to work well.  But 8k blue-ish lights compared to what now look like puke yellow halogen spots is a butt ugly combination .

[1abastarsmda]

My 09 comes stock with 2 separate bulbs for high and low.  Those that have this setup, are you changing both high and low to HID and I assume that would mean 2 ballasts???  I have been assuming all along that I would just leave the high beam as it is and only replace the low beam.

2lane...looks like the countdown to MV10 stopped working a while ago.

[Twolanerider]

My 09 comes stock with 2 separate bulbs for high and low.  Those that have this setup, are you changing both high and low to HID and I assume that would mean 2 ballasts???

2lane...looks like the countdown to MV10 stopped working a while ago.

Yes, each bulb gets a ballast.  That's why first stumbling in to the early release of these digital kits several years ago made this possible for so many of us.  Before that the separate larger ballasts and igniters were too big to mess with effectively.  The little digital ballasts make it such that getting them inside the fairing is simple though.  I've put them in a couple of Road Kings.  If they can go inside a Road King nacelle they can go inside your fairing.

Thanks on the countdown thing.  I keep the signatures turned off so never see them.  Forget what's in my own unless someone mentions it.

[naitram]

as for matching the spots, i dont use them very often since upgrading to HID, and i look at the fact that the spots dont match as a way to increase visibility instead of one big blob of color, people will see multiple points of light

[Twolanerider]

as for matching the spots, i dont use them very often since upgrading to HID, and i look at the fact that the spots dont match as a way to increase visibility instead of one big blob of color, people will see multiple points of light

Mine aren't often now either.  Though I'd not (yet) thought of rationalizing the ugly as greater visual separation....  

[ScreaminStreetGlide]

I hear ya thanks though.  Do ya know id anyone is working on a shorter more compact bulb for this?

Here ya go!
http://76.162.149.2/gpage28.html

[1abastarsmda]

Another HID question.  When installing HID lamps, is there any wiring that needs done beyond inside the fairing.  In looking at HID websites, I have seen other cables being installed that require disconnecting the battery and then connecting the HID system to the battery somehow with some sort of relays.  Is this something that needs to be done?  Is there a certain relay that needs to be purchased beyond the conversion kits, which don't seem to come with anything like that?

This looks pretty easy if all there is to it is replacing the bulb, adding the ballast, and connecting the wires together.  Is there more to it, as mentioned above, or is this just a simple procedure?

I think this is what I was referring to:
Without it, when the HID conversion (this or any other) is installed, the motorcycle's or car's electrical system "reads" that the headlamp is only drawing, say, 35W instead of 55W or 65W, and reports it to the controlling computer as a defective or "blown bulb" and you will get a system error, a warning light, or in some cases the bike may not start as a safety precaution.  The relay corrects for this, much the same way that conversion kits for LED taillights work.

They are talking about a CAN-BUS system.  Do Harleys have this, or is this just something found on BMW's and such?

[hdbrad03]

Set I installed I ran the main power back to the battery to reduce voltage drop. The headlight wiring is used to swicth on the relay.


 
     Brad

[Vosselman (NL - Europe)]

Be carefull when installing HID (Xenon) into the stock headlamp unit:
- as mentioned above some of the starter/ballast units cause noise in other electronics
- some of the xenon bulbs cause a grey/blackish color onto the reflector
- most of the bulbs in a non HID headlamp will result in a faint light pattern
(you see this a lot on cars also. When parked in front of a garagedoor, the light should have  a very clear horizontal pattern/line. No light above the line, all light below the line. Xenon in a lot of cases will cause a BIG spread.)
The best is to use a headlamp unit that is designed for HID/Xenon.

[1abastarsmda]

Set I installed I ran the main power back to the battery to reduce voltage drop. The headlight wiring is used to swicth on the relay.


 
     Brad

Okay Brad...you lost me already.  You ran the main power back to the battery???  What am I to consider the main power?  Are we talking about splicing something?  The headlight wiring is used to switch on the relay???  What headlight wiring and what relay are you talking about?  If you keep confusing me like that, I may show up in Erie with an HID kit in my hands and a puzzled look on my face.  Yes, a different puzzled look than my normal puzzled look.

[hdbrad03]

Okay Brad...you lost me already.  You ran the main power back to the battery???  What am I to consider the main power?  Are we talking about splicing something?  The headlight wiring is used to switch on the relay???  What headlight wiring and what relay are you talking about?  If you keep confusing me like that, I may show up in Erie with an HID kit in my hands and a puzzled look on my face.  Yes, a different puzzled look than my normal puzzled look.

OK let me start over. The set I installed was on a Roadglide so it contains 2 H4 bulbs that switch from high to low. So when so turn on the ignition the relay picks up and fires both lights. So main power is ran from battery to relay to balast. The headlight wiring pickup the relay and switches the lights low to high.

Ultra will have to unique light circuits for the high and low beams. I would still power lights from battery to relay to balast.

Be glad to help install.


 
       Brad

[1abastarsmda]

OK let me start over. The set I installed was on a Roadglide so it contains 2 H4 bulbs that switch from high to low. So when so turn on the ignition the relay picks up and fires both lights. So main power is ran from battery to relay to balast. The headlight wiring pickup the relay and switches the lights low to high.

Ultra will have to unique light circuits for the high and low beams. I would still power lights from battery to relay to balast.

Be glad to help install.


 
       Brad

I'm only going to install one for the low beam on mine.  It took me a while, but I finally realized that I can always add the high beam at a later date, and at that point, the installation should be a real snap, since it's my second time around.

I was really hoping that by this time, someone with the same exact bike as mine would have done this same install, and posted it all, pic by pic, and step by step, of what setup ends up working perfectly...like showing exactly where to secure the ballast and where to tie the wires to and where to run the wires too, etc.  Did I mention that I like paint by numbers also?  Anyway, if I grab a conversion kit, I'll give it a shot and when I get stuck, I'll be on the forum looking for a bailout.  Or I'll just put it all back together and call you and let you know I'm on my way to Erie.     Dave

[Twolanerider]

Dave, with most of the aftermarket kits this is an easy task. The digital ballasts are small and make mounting no great concern. Wiring is then no moe difficult than taking the ground from the headlight plug to the ground on the input to the ballast and the high or low beam power from the headlight plug to the power lead on the input to the ballast. If you're doing two ballasts use the one ground to both ballasts.

[1abastarsmda]

Dave, with most of the aftermarket kits this is an easy task. The digital ballasts are small and make mounting no great concern. Wiring is then no moe difficult than taking the ground from the headlight plug to the ground on the input to the ballast and the high or low beam power from the headlight plug to the power lead on the input to the ballast. If you're doing two ballasts use the one ground to both ballasts.

So, to translate, are you saying that I don't have to run any wires to the battery?  Just a simple plug and play inside the fairing and throw it all back together?

[Twolanerider]

The HD branded kit has a home run back to the battery to and if I remember correctly a relay added. The digital kits have less power draw and can run straight off the headlight power. It's not quite plug and play as their bare ends won't directly plug in to your headlight socket. I never cut the OE socket though. Some of the kits come with parts to crimp up a pigtail to plug into that socket. If they don't I spend an extra ten bums at the parts store and get pieces to make one. Then the whole thing really does become plug and play.

[1abastarsmda]

The HD branded kit has a home run back to the battery to and if I remember correctly a relay added. The digital kits have less power draw and can run straight off the headlight power. It's not quite plug and play as their bare ends won't directly plug in to your headlight socket. I never cut the OE socket though. Some of the kits come with parts to crimp up a pigtail to plug into that socket. If they don't I spend an extra ten bums at the parts store and get pieces to make one. Then the whole thing really does become plug and play.

I think the "light bulb" just went on in my head.  Instead of plugging the wire that was on the back of the headlamp(the original power source) to the ballast, it can be replaced with a wire that runs from the battery direct to the ballast.  From what you are saying, on our bikes, this isn't really necessary to do and I can just run it from the headlamp power that was available stock...although technically, the better install would probably be to run the power direct from the battery to the ballast, with a relay built into that connection.

Do I have the concept correct now?

[Keats]

This ended up to be one of the easiest installs on the bike.
I also had 2 bulbs so I just ordered a kit from a car conversion.
I got 4 bulbs 4 ballasts and did not have modify wiring.
the only thing that was a little difficult was locating 2 ballasts under the fairing.
You would think there is lots of room under there (wrong!)
I did not get the "mini" ballasts, so I located both on top of the radio.
I expected problems, but they did not surface.
I have been using them for almost 2 years and no issues.
because I bought the car units I had 2 spare bulbs and ballasts in case of a failure.

A great addition  ( I bought the 6K white/blue)

[Twolanerider]

I think the "light bulb" just went on in my head.  Instead of plugging the wire that was on the back of the headlamp(the original power source) to the ballast, it can be replaced with a wire that runs from the battery direct to the ballast.  From what you are saying, on our bikes, this isn't really necessary to do and I can just run it from the headlamp power that was available stock...although technically, the better install would probably be to run the power direct from the battery to the ballast, with a relay built into that connection.

Do I have the concept correct now?

I think you do.  With some of the kits the power draw is large for initial ignition that a heavier feed through a triggered relay really is a good idea.  With most of the digital ballasts, however, it's just not necessary.  Power one ballast with the yellow low beam wire to the headlamp and the other ballast with the high beam wire.  Use the headlight ground for both of them or take them to a chassis ground somewhere.  It really is that easy.

[Twolanerider]

I did not get the "mini" ballasts, so I located both on top of the radio.

The physically smaller digital ballasts make this easier.  Their power requirement is generally a bit less.  I've never felt one of them get warm and have with some others.  They cost a bit more but seem to be worth it.

[1abastarsmda]

I think you do.  With some of the kits the power draw is large for initial ignition that a heavier feed through a triggered relay really is a good idea.  With most of the digital ballasts, however, it's just not necessary.  Power one ballast with the yellow low beam wire to the headlamp and the other ballast with the high beam wire.  Use the headlight ground for both of them or take them to a chassis ground somewhere.  It really is that easy.

Thank you!

[skreminegul07]

I have seen a lot of posts on HID headlamps, but I'm not getting what seem to be the straightforward answers that I was hoping to find.  The issues seem to be who to buy what product from, will the lamps cause interference with other electronics on the bike and how can that be avoided, should both high and low come on together when on high beams and how do you make this happen, what brightness level should be purchased for the brightest white light, and what is the solution to get the passing lamps to closely match up in light color.  So the questions are:

     1.  Where should I buy my HID headlamp from?
     2.  What exact part # should I purchase?
     3.  What brightness level should I buy to produce the brightest white light?
     4.  Does the HID lamp cause interference with other electronics such as the radio?
     5.  If yes to #4, how can the interference be avoided?
     6.  Should the high and low beams come on together when the high beams are activated?
     7.  If yes to #6, is there a special way to wire them?  Please explain.
     8.  What part(s) are needed to closely match the lighting color of the HID with the passing lamps?

I'm trying to find a solution that works so I don't have to go through the trial and error method that it appears many have gone through.  My time is very limited these days, and I'm not going to start this project until I'm confident that this is going to work correctly the first time.  I realize that without headlamps, I'm also without a bike, so I hope someone will share the information to a seamless installation.  Thanks!

Just installed two kits for mine.  The high beam makes little or no difference when turned on.  You could leave the halogen for the high beam unless the color of the bulb matters.  I went with the Xtralights, digital2.  They are small and easy to set up, using the bulb connector and nothing else.  I had the TuneTrapper internal fairing antenna and it would not work anymore when the HIDs were on.  I used the 4300 as you can see from the chart Neal posted, they are the most effective.

[jerdawg]

hi everyone, i installed the 6000 bulbs in my 09, 55watt low beam, 100watt high beam, love them on the back roads i ride, only ? is on the wiring . did anyone find a connector to plug into the factory harness without splicing?

[Twistedrider]

I have seen a lot of posts on HID headlamps, but I'm not getting what seem to be the straightforward answers that I was hoping to find.  The issues seem to be who to buy what product from, will the lamps cause interference with other electronics on the bike and how can that be avoided, should both high and low come on together when on high beams and how do you make this happen, what brightness level should be purchased for the brightest white light, and what is the solution to get the passing lamps to closely match up in light color.  So the questions are:

     1.  Where should I buy my HID headlamp from?
     2.  What exact part # should I purchase?
     3.  What brightness level should I buy to produce the brightest white light?
     4.  Does the HID lamp cause interference with other electronics such as the radio?
     5.  If yes to #4, how can the interference be avoided?
     6.  Should the high and low beams come on together when the high beams are activated?
     7.  If yes to #6, is there a special way to wire them?  Please explain.
     8.  What part(s) are needed to closely match the lighting color of the HID with the passing lamps?

I'm trying to find a solution that works so I don't have to go through the trial and error method that it appears many have gone through.  My time is very limited these days, and I'm not going to start this project until I'm confident that this is going to work correctly the first time.  I realize that without headlamps, I'm also without a bike, so I hope someone will share the information to a seamless installation.  Thanks!

08 CUSE with the Dual Headlamp - the low beam is always on and the Hi beam switches in/out.


Changed the low beam H11 bulb to HID with the following at 4300K Crystal White; You can get cheaper, but I liked the digital and small size of the unit.
http://www.xtralights.com/xetronicdigitallightingsystem-h11typesingle.aspx

With the kit you get a connector to attach to the existing Low Beam connector.
I left the Hi Beam as is.

I swapped the spotlight 881 bulbs with Luminics Hyper White 881 bulbs - Not exact but a very close match to the HID

http://www.luminicsbulbs.com/hyper_white.php

Did not have any problems with interference - Garmin GPS,Radar detector, XM and radio all worked as before.
Hope this helps.

[1abastarsmda]

Success!  I installed the HID Xentec Pure White 5000K H11 replacement bulb in the low beam slot with the Digital Slim Ballast.  The only problem I ran into was finding a place to mount the ballast.  Thanks to Twolanerider for suggesting that I mount it on the bottom side of the XM radio antenna bracket.  I mounted it on the bottom side of the bracket with the included 2-sided tape, and then used 2 plastic wire ties to further secure it to the bracket, one on each side of the XM antenna...so it's not going to move now.  Other than that, everything was completely plug and play.  There was no cutting and no splicing.  It sure does make the passing lamps look dull now.  I think I'll give the Luminics bulbs mentioned above a try in the passing lamps.  I haven't had a chance to take it out to try it out, and only turned it on to check for adjustment on the garage wall.  I didn't measure it, but there is a nice horizontal line on the wall probably about 3 to 3.5 feet off the ground without making any adjustments at all.  I'm figuring that it should be pretty darned close to perfect right where it is.  I paid $55.48 for the kit including shipping, and that included 2 of everything.  Assuming it works as well as it looks like it will, I'll recoup about half my cost putting the other one in my friend's SEUC.  I checked out all sources of audio, and there doesn't seem to be any interference whatsoever.  I can't believe I was ever worried about this install.  Other than time talking on the phone to Twolanerider and LarryB, I don't think it took me an hour from start to finish.  I can't wait to take a ride at night now.  If they perform as advertised, I'll probably do my SUV next week.  By the way, I saw others for even less money for the same exact kit...which again, will give you 2 of everything...so you can do 2 bikes if they take the same lamp.

[1abastarsmda]

I tried the new headlamp tonight and it works quite well.  I have now ordered the Luminics 881 Ultra White bulbs for the passing lamps ($21/pair on Ebay).  I hope that they are closer to the same color as the headlamp, as it looks pretty ridiculous with that bright white headlamp and those 2 badly faded yellow passing lamps.  At some point, I may just get the proper setup for the high beam also, since it definitely produces a longer path and when the high beam is on, you can see 2 distinct beam colors on the road in front of you, and also, it too looks pretty ridiculous when high and low are both on and they are completely different colors.  By the way, I did notice on Ebay that there are several other 881 replacement bulbs claiming the same type of results for prices as low as $7.50/pair including shipping, but they just didn't look like they were of comparable quality to the Luminics, so I went with the Luminics.  I'll be sure to make a post and let everyone know how this little lamp project works out.

I did find one type of electrical interference caused by the mounting location of my ballast.  As I mentioned in a post above, I mounted the ballast on the underside of the XM radio antenna bracket, which is inside the fairing on the clutch lever side of the bike and just above and slightly toward the center of the fairing from the left fairing speaker.  I noticed that everytime I turned my bike on, the alarm went off.  I have a habit of taking my keys out of my pocket and placing them in the left pocket of my 3 pocket windshield bag, which just happens to be directly above where the ballast is mounted.  After taking the keys out 4 times and the alarm stopping immediately, I put my keys in the right pocket of the windshield bag and turned the ignition on again.  The problem disappeared.  Apparently, there is some interference between the ballast and the alarm FOB.  I guess I'm just going to have to get used to reaching to the left pocket to get to my cigarettes, and if I decide to upgrade the high beam, and mount the 2nd ballast on the right side antenna bracket, I'll just have to keep the keys in my pocket when I ride.

[SBB]

I tried the new headlamp tonight and it works quite well.  I have now ordered the Luminics 881 Ultra White bulbs for the passing lamps ($21/pair on Ebay).  I hope that they are closer to the same color as the headlamp, as it looks pretty ridiculous with that bright white headlamp and those 2 badly faded yellow passing lamps.  At some point, I may just get the proper setup for the high beam also, since it definitely produces a longer path and when the high beam is on, you can see 2 distinct beam colors on the road in front of you, and also, it too looks pretty ridiculous when high and low are both on and they are completely different colors.  By the way, I did notice on Ebay that there are several other 881 replacement bulbs claiming the same type of results for prices as low as $7.50/pair including shipping, but they just didn't look like they were of comparable quality to the Luminics, so I went with the Luminics.  I'll be sure to make a post and let everyone know how this little lamp project works out.

I did find one type of electrical interference caused by the mounting location of my ballast.  As I mentioned in a post above, I mounted the ballast on the underside of the XM radio antenna bracket, which is inside the fairing on the clutch lever side of the bike and just above and slightly toward the center of the fairing from the left fairing speaker.  I noticed that everytime I turned my bike on, the alarm went off.  I have a habit of taking my keys out of my pocket and placing them in the left pocket of my 3 pocket windshield bag, which just happens to be directly above where the ballast is mounted.  After taking the keys out 4 times and the alarm stopping immediately, I put my keys in the right pocket of the windshield bag and turned the ignition on again.  The problem disappeared.  Apparently, there is some interference between the ballast and the alarm FOB.  I guess I'm just going to have to get used to reaching to the left pocket to get to my cigarettes, and if I decide to upgrade the high beam, and mount the 2nd ballast on the right side antenna bracket, I'll just have to keep the keys in my pocket when I ride.

Put the keys in the tour pak Dave!
And thanks for all the info on these lights!

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[1abastarsmda]

If I can find the opportune time to do it, I'd like to take photos with my bike and my friend's SEUC side by side and see if I can get photos of the light beams from each separately.  First, I'll have to find a way to trick him into being out after dark on the bike, and do it before he changes his over also.  I know he'll want this setup once he sees mine.

The tourpack won't work for me to put the keys in.  About half the time, I sit on the bike and realize they are in my pants pocket and I just reach in and grab them and put them in the windshield bag.  I'd have to get back off the bike to put them in the tourpack...and that ain't gonna happen!  Maybe I could make a necklace out of them...not!

[1abastarsmda]

In reply to a PM from Twolanerider, you were 100% correct.  I could kick myself for not switching both high and low while I had it apart.  I am now going to put in the high beam also, but not so much for the light that it emits, but because it just plain looks stupid when both lamps are on and they are of such vastly different color spectrums.

I originally purchased a kit for a car, so I received 2 of everything, and I noticed that the tag on the wire from the bulb says H8, H11, and a few others...so I am assuming that they are sending the exact same bulb for either application.  However, I ordered a single H8 kit from another source for the high beam.  The low beam (H11) that I put in has a strong bluish tint to it and I have to wonder whether the color temperature that they sent me was actually the 5000k that I ordered.  There is nothing there to indicate to me what color temperature I received.  I ordered a 4300k from a different source and I'll see if it's the same or not.  Initially, I'm going to put it in place of the low beam to check out the color and see if it has such a blue tint or not.  If not, I'll probably order another 4300k from this source and then I'll have a complete set of H11's left over, but those will also fit my SUV, so they probably won't go to waste.  Then again, I may just sell them real cheap.